[Unspec]

For those who still have the hydraulic power steering, this should be changed out every 30,000 miles or so. I initially thought about using the turkey baster method, but it felt so wasteful that I wanted to see if there were better options.

• 6mm hex
• Some kind of fluid extractor
• 2 liters of CHF-11S
• Bucket of warm water and ideally some kind of thermometer
• [Optional] One of those skinny funnels and some duct tape
• [Optional] A normal funnel if you have bad aim while pouring

1. Put the power steering fluid in the warm water to let it warm up. Needs to be at least 20*C (68*Freedom Units)
   
   
2. Extract as much as you can out of the reservoir, and leave the cap off for the entire process. Raise the car and make sure the wheels are free to rotate.
   
   
3. Locate bolt and position drain bucket under the bolt. Bolt:
   
   
   
   
4. Crack open the bolt with a 6mm hex and let it drain for a bit. For me, it was on REALLY tight, though I'm not sure if that's just due to age or if the actual torque specs are silly high. I had to extend my hex key with a pipe to open it up. If you're willing to undo the sway bar brackets, you can get a proper torque wrench and breaker bar up there, but I didn't want to do that since the sway bar bracket bolts need to be replaced every time they're taken out according to TIS. So the only option you have that don't involve removing the sway bars is to use a hex key or stubby hex.
   
   
5. Once it's mostly just a dribble, take out the bolt completely. Now, this is where it gets messy. The "drain" is located right on top of the edge of the stiffening plate, and tends to really squirt fluid when you're turning the wheels, so it gets all over the place. On hoses, on the sway bar, on the stiffening plate, it even somehow managed to get on my intercooler and front control arms. In hindsight, it would have been way cleaner to just duct tape one of those skinny funnels over the "drain" so that it catches all the fluids.
   
   
6. Get in the car, DO NOT turn the car on. Just unlock the car and the steering wheel lock will disengage. Turn the steering wheel from lock to lock until you don't hear any more fluid coming out.
   
   
7. Tighten up the "drain". I couldn't find the torque specs, if anyone knows it please let me know, it's bugging the crap out of me. I just made it gudd'en tight.
   
   
8. Once that is done, add fluid to the reservoir, don't worry about how much yet, just fill it up like 7/8 of the way full. Still don't turn the car on. You'll need to prime the lines by turning the steering wheel from lock to lock. I did this for a solid 2-3 minutes because I didn't want to starve the pump for even a second.
   
   
9. Now you check the fluid level with the cap. Add it so that it's about 10% past the minimum level. Turn the engine on, turn steering wheel lock to lock a couple of times. BMW says to do it twice in each direction, but I did it more like 10-15 times because I hate myself. Check your fluid level. Make sure it's at least above the minimum mark
   
   
10. Let engine get to operating temp and check the fluid level. Adjust as needed.
    
    
11. Check for leaks, specifically around the "drain" bolt area. Clean up, button everything back up, you're done.

I took out almost exactly how much I put in (1.1 liters or so), so this definitely seems to drain the entire system or close to it. Good luck!

[Sylverlee]

Interesting! thx for the write up. This is the first time I've seen someone mention changing this fluid. Do you feel any difference?

[Unspec]

Originally Posted by Sylverlee

Interesting! thx for the write up. This is the first time I've seen someone mention changing this fluid. Do you feel any difference?

Nope, but that's what I expected.

[ashmailusa]

I wonder if the reservoir is supposed to be changed as well?
Also, is it possible to do this with add up - turn wheels - add more method. Just to eliminate risk of having air pockets?

[Unspec]

Originally Posted by ashmailusa

I wonder if the reservoir is supposed to be changed as well?
Also, is it possible to do this with add up - turn wheels - add more method. Just to eliminate risk of having air pockets?

Reservoir has a built in filter, I believe. But its changed much more on an as needed basis.

You mean for the fill up? Just fill the reservoir to the very top. It'll be the same thing. There won't be air pockets if you bleed it correctly after filling.

[Surly73]

Just an idea I thought of to add to this...

Unspec mention the mess dealing with draining. On my E39 528i the coolant block drain was located amongst the engine mounts and suspension components and when you opened the block drain it got everywhere and travelled and dribble all over.

I went to a hardware store and got a 2-3' length of something like 1.5"-2" clear tubing. Even working with one hand down beside the engine I managed to set it up that the tubing was in a bucket on one end, and you fumble out the drain bolt with your fingers and when it comes loose shove the other end of the tubing against the block.

The tubing was large enough that the drain bolt just went down the tubing into the bucket and the tubing shoved against the block well enough to catch just about everything that came out of the block.

It looks like a similar approach might work here. Get the bolt mostly out, the have the tubing ready to shove over the opening and hold while doing all the rest of the wheel turning etc... Requires an assistant

[Unspec]

Originally Posted by Surly73

Just an idea I thought of to add to this...

Unspec mention the mess dealing with draining. On my E39 528i the coolant block drain was located amongst the engine mounts and suspension components and when you opened the block drain it got everywhere and travelled and dribble all over.

I went to a hardware store and got a 2-3' length of something like 1.5"-2" clear tubing. Even working with one hand down beside the engine I managed to set it up that the tubing was in a bucket on one end, and you fumble out the drain bolt with your fingers and when it comes loose shove the other end of the tubing against the block.

The tubing was large enough that the drain bolt just went down the tubing into the bucket and the tubing shoved against the block well enough to catch just about everything that came out of the block.

It looks like a similar approach might work here. Get the bolt mostly out, the have the tubing ready to shove over the opening and hold while doing all the rest of the wheel turning etc... Requires an assistant

Don't need to rush actually, it kind of just dribbles out initially. It's only when you start turning the wheel that it really squirts. Helped my friend do his PS fluid change recently, and just duct taping a funnel to it worked fine

[lsturbointeg]

Is there a way to tell without crawling under the car if i have the hydraulic power steering? i'm not sure what i have. mine is a 2011 if that helps

[Unspec]

Originally Posted by lsturbointeg

Is there a way to tell without crawling under the car if i have the hydraulic power steering? i'm not sure what i have. mine is a 2011 if that helps

Check to see if you have the power steering reservoir, the cap will say "CHS 11S Only" or something along those lines

[Surly73]

Originally Posted by lsturbointeg

Is there a way to tell without crawling under the car if i have the hydraulic power steering? i'm not sure what i have. mine is a 2011 if that helps

As far as I know - only X-Drives have it, and all X-Drives have it. If you don't have an X-Drive, you have electric.

[Unspec]

Originally Posted by Surly73

As far as I know - only X-Drives have it, and all X-Drives have it. If you don't have an X-Drive, you have electric.

Actually surprisingly enough, the 4 banger F10's have electronic power steering. The reason hydraulic was used in xDrives was due to packaging, an issue the 528 didn't run into so they used EPS.

[u-mastro]

Very helpful! Thanks!

[Hellboy550i]

Can we use Prestons European formula instead of pentosin chf 11s.. will ther be an issue ? Cause I can see people are using different brands of CF 11 S example, hyper titan, etc. Unspec

[Unspec]

Originally Posted by Hellboy550i

Can we use Prestons European formula instead of pentosin chf 11s.. will ther be an issue ? Cause I can see people are using different brands of CF 11 S example, hyper titan, etc. Unspec

The cap says CHF 11S only

[Hellboy550i]

Originally Posted by Unspec

The cap says CHF 11S only

am thinking of using Prestons europeans formula , since its synthetic and it helps in stop leaking if there is any, in the bottle description I can see its compatible with CHF11s standards...also I can see different DIY you tubers where they use hyper, titan etc with CHF11s standards, what brand did u used ..? and what is ur thought on Preston instead of pentosin ..

[Unspec]

Originally Posted by Hellboy550i

am thinking of using Prestons europeans formula , since its synthetic and it helps in stop leaking if there is any, in the bottle description I can see its compatible with CHF11s standards...also I can see different DIY you tubers where they use hyper, titan etc with CHF11s standards, what brand did u used ..? and what is ur thought on Preston instead of pentosin ..

I used Pentosin CHF 11S.

Just keep in mind that a power steering pump or steering rack swap is a lot more expensive than the couple bucks you save by using a cheaper CHF 11S alternative. You don't even save money by using Prestone. It's 11.22 for 12 ounces, while CHF 11S is 27 for 33 ounces.

[Hellboy550i]

Originally Posted by Unspec

I used Pentosin CHF 11S.

Just keep in mind that a power steering pump or steering rack swap is a lot more expensive than the couple bucks you save by using a cheaper CHF 11S alternative. You don't even save money by using Prestone. It's 11.22 for 12 ounces, while CHF 11S is 27 for 33 ounces.

looks like my RWD F10 LCI 550i have electric motor , so hustle saved.