[DarkgraphiteNYC]

Originally Posted by Capmoq

Geart job. I had rough idle at cold as well and had the same problem. Engine mounts were swapped and all good.

Changed the tranny fluid on mine as well. However, it was not OEM fluid - something else, I do not know the manufacturer. At the moment (about 10 000 km later) I now have a problem with the tranny. When I do launches (car at sport+ and gearbox in sport mode) the gear shift is very rough (especially from second to third). It almost feels like the car jumps at gear shifts. After the discovery I did full software updates and nothing has changed. I'm guessing the fluid has something to do with it (nothing else has changed). Also, after the launches the car shifts rough at Comfort+ mode for a few days. After that the roughness goes away. The gearbox is always adapts according to different drive styles and conditions.

Originally Posted by Capmoq

Geart job. I had rough idle at cold as well and had the same problem. Engine mounts were swapped and all good.

Changed the tranny fluid on mine as well. However, it was not OEM fluid - something else, I do not know the manufacturer. At the moment (about 10 000 km later) I now have a problem with the tranny. When I do launches (car at sport+ and gearbox in sport mode) the gear shift is very rough (especially from second to third). It almost feels like the car jumps at gear shifts. After the discovery I did full software updates and nothing has changed. I'm guessing the fluid has something to do with it (nothing else has changed). Also, after the launches the car shifts rough at Comfort+ mode for a few days. After that the roughness goes away. The gearbox is always adapts according to different drive styles and conditions.

Sorry to hear about the tranny problems. This was the concern with changing fluid outside the 60k window. It seems like some people don't have problems and unfortunately others do. I think the way to go would be to wait until you have some problems before changing the tranny fluid if you missed that window.

[ezaircon4jc]

Originally Posted by DarkgraphiteNYC

Sorry to hear about the tranny problems. This was the concern with changing fluid outside the 60k window. It seems like some people don't have problems and unfortunately others do. I think the way to go would be to wait until you have some problems before changing the tranny fluid if you missed that window.

If you wait the trans could be toast. I (well, my dealer) didn't change the fluid in our 2012 until ~75K miles and it shifts just fine.

[rkstar9]

Havent read of any cases where the tranny went becasue fluid was changed too late

Originally Posted by Capmoq

Geart job. I had rough idle at cold as well and had the same problem. Engine mounts were swapped and all good.

Changed the tranny fluid on mine as well. However, it was not OEM fluid - something else, I do not know the manufacturer. At the moment (about 10 000 km later) I now have a problem with the tranny. When I do launches (car at sport+ and gearbox in sport mode) the gear shift is very rough (especially from second to third). It almost feels like the car jumps at gear shifts. After the discovery I did full software updates and nothing has changed. I'm guessing the fluid has something to do with it (nothing else has changed). Also, after the launches the car shifts rough at Comfort+ mode for a few days. After that the roughness goes away. The gearbox is always adapts according to different drive styles and conditions.

Glad the engine mounts solved your problem. Reading your comment makes me feel more confident to begin with that first.

Any idea if the mounts can be removed without removing the engine support arm? On my X5 they wont come out unless the arm is removed.

Will be raising the engine from the bottom with a jack and block of wood.

[BrandBMW]

Project looks great. I am also in Chicago and will do my tension/thrust arms in the next few weeks. I already changed one axle a month ago and did the, remove wheel center cover, install wheel, then loosen the axle bolt through the wheel. Did the same to do the final tightening. Single person technique, lol. I don't like messing with a screwdriver on the brake rotors.

The video is great as I was not sure if I needed to order new axle bolts or if the balljoint would slide under the CV. Guess new axle bolts.

[rkstar9]

Originally Posted by BrandBMW

Project looks great. I am also in Chicago and will do my tension/thrust arms in the next few weeks. I already changed one axle a month ago and did the, remove wheel center cover, install wheel, then loosen the axle bolt through the wheel. Did the same to do the final tightening. Single person technique, lol. I don't like messing with a screwdriver on the brake rotors.

The video is great as I was not sure if I needed to order new axle bolts or if the balljoint would slide under the CV. Guess new axle bolts.

where in chicago? Im actually up by glenview in the suburbs. If beneficial we could partner up and knock out both cars.

[BrandBMW]

PM me and perhaps we could document our process and impressions of different tension strut/thrust arm set-ups.

I am in the northside of Chicago. I've done thrust arms on e34s (x6), e31s (x3), e39s (x2), and control arms on BMWs, Volvos, Hondas, etc, but based on this thread, you are also mechanically proficient. I plan to buy new Lemforder arms, press out the bushings, and replace with street Powerflex poly bushings. Just a note, I have seen Lemforder rubber quality diminish and it is not what it used to be from years ago.

I've used the Powerflex purple street durometer bushings on other cars with great success and it is not what the old thinking is of the track version of poly bushings are. Poly gives a more direct pivot so the energy will transfer up to the shocks/springs, where it should go, reducing judder/flex when hitting a bump. From my real-world experience, most of the benefit is from the poly bushings being solid, removing cut-outs or oil-filled areas of the bushing where flex occurs. The added benefit comes from the poly bushing pivoting efficiently rather than twisting a bushing when the arm moves up or down.

Some links about Lemforder gripes:

BMW e70, lighter (bottom) is original 80k mile arm

BMW F10 RWD

On a Mercedes, it's the bushing making the noise not the balljoint the owner reported on a forum
https://www.impactbumpers.com/forum/...ky-drop-links/ Porsche owners

Sorry, don't mean to take over your thread and don't know how to post the youtube links where it doesn't automatically preview a window.

[rkstar9]

Now you got me wondering. I do follow the logic of not replacing a fault prone part with another fault prone part.

My concerns with harder bushing is that the diesel might be better off with softer bushings due to vibrations. And the big one is that the bushings seem to go for 400 bucks a pair. Unless you found a better price elsewhere.

I am familiar with the rubber bushing issues on my old 2003 z4 (where I went with urethane)and currently on my x5. they are just not parts made to last.

[BrandBMW]

That makes sense about the diesel. Original tension/thrust bushings going for $88 each with free shipping, https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...ng-31126777653

[rkstar9]

Originally Posted by BrandBMW

That makes sense about the diesel. Original tension/thrust bushings going for $88 each with free shipping, https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...ng-31126777653

I bought the lemforder ones but I returned them, People on the facebook group said it's not worth the trouble to press them in. Someone said sometimes the new bushings end up with play. Who knows.

Obviously it can be done with the proper tools but it's not always a walk in the park.

Will be focusing on changing the engine mounts first, steering wheel is bouncing up and down on idle.


------

Yesterday I re installed my EGR block off plate, aparently I installed it facing in the wrong direction and have been driving a few weeks with a massive exhaust leak.

Put some ultracopper gasket maker and let it sit for 24 hours.
Cabin exhaust smell seems to be gone.



Need to set a day when I can have time to do both engine mounts, possibliy both engine mount ARMS need to be losened as well.

[rkstar9]

For the first time I removed the engine shield and found this



Not a good look.

To remove the engine mount the engine mount arm needs to be removed and the DPF has to be taken off. I did not feel like removing the DPF as it is a PIA to put pack together so I dropped the subframe about 1 inch and the mount came off.



BBQ sauce substance leaked out and also collapsed to the point that it was metal on metal.




I ordered LEFT and RIGHT engine mounts per realoem part numbers. but comparing the parts they all look exactly the same.
I am not sure if they are the exact same part or if it was a mistake.



My car creeper is a goner. Researching what is a good one to buy.

[rkstar9]

Car rides great with new engine mount! can barely tell it's on even on cold mornings. So that was a success.

Found this on the hood after the hood was re painted a few weeks ago.





Im no expert, but Ive driven bimmers before and never seen paint chip off like this before.

Called the body shop again and once again they re stated they are responsible for damage as a result of their work. If a rock hit the car that on the other hand is on me.

Yes something must have hit the car, but I see no crater around it, paint should sustain small rocks and chips to some extent and not chip so easily.

Looking for opinions on what would case paint to chip off like that esp after the car has just been painted.

It's not just the hood, the side panels and the bumper show a lot of chipps and the paint seems to be falling off very easily.

I'm all for giving people the benefit of the doubt but the paint job has been bull shit from the get go.

[philipm785]

Sorry it's been such a hassle. With all the issues you've diagnosed and chased down, one would have thought that the paint job would have been a relatively easy part of the process!

If the paint is literally falling / flaking off, you may get further by waiting a week or two to the point where the flawed paint job is obvious. That said, I'm not sure that having these guys give it another go is going to result in an outcome with which you're satisfied. A partial refund and a new shop might be preferable.

[rkstar9]

Originally Posted by philipm785

Sorry it's been such a hassle. With all the issues you've diagnosed and chased down, one would have thought that the paint job would have been a relatively easy part of the process!

If the paint is literally falling / flaking off, you may get further by waiting a week or two to the point where the flawed paint job is obvious. That said, I'm not sure that having these guys give it another go is going to result in an outcome with which you're satisfied. A partial refund and a new shop might be preferable.

Im with you on not letting these guys have another go.

No more paint has been flaking off from the hood, just the bumper around the headlights.

Im gonna give it more time and see what happens.

-----

Bought a chinese trim on ali express.



After



Surprisingly a thing so simple does not look too bad.


Also got this in the mail today




M6 Rear sway bar I scored for 100 bucks )



Looks thinner than I expected, but it does say 16MM. (original is 14MM)




Can't wait to get under the car and install it.
Wanted to do transfer case oil change, but it looks like it's more involved than I anticipated as the transmission support bar needs to be removed.


Counting down the days to purchase custom magnaflow exhaust from a gentleman on Facebook. and complete emissions delete.

[Capmoq]

Great updates. Sorry for not replying earlier, past month has been a hassle

Any chance you are doing your drive shaft bushings with transmission bushings any time soon? I have heard that these are prone to cracking and might need to be changed as well. Especially the 535D ones.

[rkstar9]

Originally Posted by Capmoq

Great updates. Sorry for not replying earlier, past month has been a hassle

Any chance you are doing your drive shaft bushings with transmission bushings any time soon? I have heard that these are prone to cracking and might need to be changed as well. Especially the 535D ones.

I ordered the tranny bushing thinking mine was ripped. After I got the new one I realized they come looking like they are ripped on one side. So the one I have in my car is in good shape.

the bushing press tool is 350 bucks or so and there is no other way to press it. so I am not looking forward to have to do it any time soon.

mu guibo bushing looks fine as well.

curious if its some models that are affected with the failing bushings

[Capmoq]

Originally Posted by rkstar9

I ordered the tranny bushing thinking mine was ripped. After I got the new one I realized they come looking like they are ripped on one side. So the one I have in my car is in good shape.

the bushing press tool is 350 bucks or so and there is no other way to press it. so I am not looking forward to have to do it any time soon.

mu guibo bushing looks fine as well.

curious if its some models that are affected with the failing bushings

Same here. Are you going to change the chain and high pressure fuel pump anytime soon? These are the most frustrating things that F10 owners face at the moment. Check what happened to Nut Job from Youtube.

[rkstar9]

Originally Posted by Capmoq

Same here. Are you going to change the chain and high pressure fuel pump anytime soon? These are the most frustrating things that F10 owners face at the moment. Check what happened to Nut Job from Youtube.

Changing the chain is not in my plans way too labor intensive and don't know anyone who is knowledgeable enough to do it., Changing the oil every 5,000 is all I can do.

I think the timing chain issue is not all that common. (more so in the 520d) sounds like a manufacturing defect.

Fuel pump is not a difficult job, but what some bmw tech guy said on FB is that the fuel pumps fail when it is not properly primed after a filter change.

I will follow proper bleed procedure. I also have a the FM100 2 micron filter so my pump should run cleaner.

Also I never let the fuel tank go below 1/2 tank to avoid water build up.

[Capmoq]

Originally Posted by rkstar9

Changing the chain is not in my plans way too labor intensive and don't know anyone who is knowledgeable enough to do it., Changing the oil every 5,000 is all I can do.

I think the timing chain issue is not all that common. (more so in the 520d) sounds like a manufacturing defect.

Fuel pump is not a difficult job, but what some bmw tech guy said on FB is that the fuel pumps fail when it is not properly primed after a filter change.

I will follow proper bleed procedure. I also have a the FM100 2 micron filter so my pump should run cleaner.

Also I never let the fuel tank go below 1/2 tank to avoid water build up.

There are 2 ways to do it:
1) Take off the transmission and some stuff from the top of the engine:

2) Take off the engine:

OEM manual:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/f...shaft/B9JqCDXE

Toolkit:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Motor-Einst...EAAOSwfZtbBsnq

There are many people who have done it but I do not have the balls to take it on.

[rkstar9]

Oh man that dude has no sign of slowing down.He was a way of making things look very simple.

I am down, that tranny jack is ingenious.


On other news, cracked the sidewall of my 6 month old front right tire going over a pot hole at night. I really regret not getting 245/45/19. The thicker sidewall should help absorb the impact. Possibly why the engine mount fails too.

In general the OEM M-sport rim is around 36lbs, Im sure it absorbs a lot of road vibration, but it can't be good for the tires engine output and MPG's

wish I could replace them for a lighter set of rims.

really considering installing my 18 inch style 2019's just that the car does not look nearly as good.

It looks like discount tire might pay for the tire since it was under their every tire warranty.

[rkstar9]

lock nut key fell apart