[windowmaker]

I've read that the N63TU has this built-in, but has anyone attempted this on the N63 and had decent results? When taking out the intake components I've seen oil seepage from the piping into the intake
(Intake-facing end of #1), so am inclined to install this as a sort of preventative maintenance mod.

I don't mind getting shitty mileage but am concerned if the reason I'm getting 13-15 MPG is because of more than an average amount of oil getting into the intake though the PCV system. Based on a random search of other 550 owners, it seems others get around 18-21MPG (granted most cars are not MT):
http://www.fuelly.com/car/bmw/550i

I've ordered two Mishimoto-like cans two-port cans (one for each bank) and piping and will be doing an install around late November/December. Might have to get a shop to make some custom brackets since I haven't found any pre-fabbed ones online for the F10 550/M5.

Based on the videos I've seen online for other cars, unless the catch can is super-high quality, some liquids may still get down the line, and you probably don't want that type of gunk going back down into your sump as is done with the N63(TU) considering crank-case blowby gasses have a lot of contaminants. It's done that way as a simple solution for people who actually wait the typical OCI of 10-15k miles.

Here's a guy who put two catch cans in series low vs high quality, and reversed the order to compare:

Spoiler alert: $300 can ate most of the heavier fluid gunk but some liquid ended up passing to the second can, which demonstrates that for regular cars it would end up in the intake. We have the oil separator to reduce this but it's a plastic/rubber unbaffled valve system that opens under pressure and wears over time.

I want to see if this has any effect on mileage and if I get reduced smoking on cold starts.

Update: Pics of installation in post below.

[badblack550xi]

i made catch can set up but no one was interested.

[ezaircon4jc]

If I understand correctly, the catch can is to prevent carbon buildup on the back side of the intake valves. Don't see how that would affect mileage...

[windowmaker]

Originally Posted by ezaircon4jc

If I understand correctly, the catch can is to prevent carbon buildup on the back side of the intake valves. Don't see how that would affect mileage...

It disrupts the octane rating due to contaminants in the ingested air, and over time oil residue gets all inside the intake, intercooler, etc and so contaminated air constantly gets pulled into the engine. If the ECU can't expect a steady, clean air mixture it won't run at optimal efficiency.

As well due to the carbon buildup the valves might not seal as well or may even get partially obstructed.

[warpeacelove]

Originally Posted by windowmaker

I've read that the N63TU has this built-in, but has anyone attempted this on the N63 and had decent results? When taking out the intake components I've seen oil seepage from the piping into the intake
(Intake-facing end of #1), so am inclined to install this as a sort of preventative maintenance mod.

I don't mind getting shitty mileage but am concerned if the reason I'm getting 13-15 MPG is because of more than an average amount of oil getting into the intake though the PCV system. Based on a random search of other 550 owners, it seems others get around 18-21MPG (granted most cars are not MT):
http://www.fuelly.com/car/bmw/550i

I've ordered two Mishimoto-like cans two-port cans (one for each bank) and piping and will be doing an install around late November/December. Might have to get a shop to make some custom brackets since I haven't found any pre-fabbed ones online for the F10 550/M5.

Based on the videos I've seen online for other cars, unless the catch can is super-high quality, some liquids may still get down the line, and you probably don't want that type of gunk going back down into your sump as is done with the N63(TU) considering crank-case blowby gasses have a lot of contaminants. It's done that way as a simple solution for people who actually wait the typical OCI of 10-15k miles.

Here's a guy who put two catch cans in series low vs high quality, and reversed the order to compare:

Spoiler alert: $300 can ate most of the heavier fluid gunk but some liquid ended up passing to the second can, which demonstrates that for regular cars it would end up in the intake. We have the oil separator to reduce this but it's a plastic/rubber unbaffled valve system that opens under pressure and wears over time.

I want to see if this has any effect on mileage and if I get reduced smoking on cold starts.

Great post, looking forward to the development.

[warpeacelove]

"How does an oil catch can work and why is it beneficial?
There is a large debate as to whether or not oil catch cans are worth the money or not. This article is dedicated to providing a very detailed explanation showing why a catch can is highly recommended in direct injection engine applications.

First, let's go over what is currently happening in your engine without a catch can installed. All internal combustion engines that run off gasoline are 4 stroke engines. This means that the piston has to go up and down a total of 4 times to complete a cycle. The piston first goes down with the intake valves open creating a vacuum. This draws in the cool dense air for combustion. At the same time, fuel is injected into the cylinder. The intake valves close and then the piston rises up towards the top of the cylinder. This compression creates an immense build-up of pressure in the cylinder. The only things containing this high pressure are the cylinder itself, the piston and the piston rings that seat against the walls of the cylinder. The intake and exhaust valves are obviously closed as well. The pressure is so high that a very small amount of the air escapes around the piston and piston rings into the crankcase. This is called blow-by. The amount of blow-by increases as the engine RPMs rise. Also, an engine with more cylinders will have more blow-by. Obviously not all of the air escapes or else combustion wouldn't take place. A diagram of the 4-stroke cycle can be seen below. Only the first 2 steps are relevant in regards to the catch can."



Inside the crankcase, you have the crank which is turning in the oil pan which is full of oil. This keeps it properly lubricated. PCV or positive crankcase ventilation is necessary to ensure there isn't a build up of pressure in the crankcase. This would cause the crankcase to possibly crack under the pressure and create a huge mess of oil on the street. So the PCV system removes the pressure from the crankcase and reverts it back through the intake tract via crank case vents. This pressure isn't made up of 100% air. It will also contain a very small amount of oil as well since there is so much in the oil pan at a high temperature. This air and oil mixture is then entered somewhere after the intake system, passes through the intercooler (if you car is turbo or supercharged) and then re-enters the combustion chamber (cylinder) through your intake valves to be re-burned. The oil will actually coat everything on its way back to the combustion chamber. It will develop in the intercooler, boost hoses, intake manifold and intake valves. Just on the other side of these valves is where the combustion is taking place where the temperatures are extremely high. This is what actually causes the oil to solidify on the valves. With the oil passing through the intercooler, it can actually coat the cooling fins which will hinder the intercooler's ability to cool the air therefore lowering the efficiency.

The caking on intake valves is only a problem with direct injection engines. For all other engines that use port injection, the gas is introduced before the combustion chamber which means it flows over the intake valves and enter the combustion chamber premixed with the air. This action of the fuel flowing over the intake valves actually cleans the valves from any oil that make already be on there. The oil never has the chance to cake on the valves in port injection engines.

Having oil caked onto your intake valves can cause the following symptoms:

Knocking
Pre-ignition
Loss in power
Loss in fuel economy
Here is an image of carbon build-up on valves. Yes it's nasty.



This is mainly due to the fact that the air that comes through your intake system and goes into the combustion chamber won't just be air. It will contain some oil particles which cause the combustion process to be slightly less efficient.

You might ask why do car manufacturers revert this crankcase pressure back into the intake tract? Well, for starters there isn't anywhere safe to revert it to and you can't expel it into the atmosphere because it's not environmentally friendly and is considered to not be street legal.

Another question that arises is why isn't a catch can included from the factory? Well it's pretty simple actually. Most people don't even change their oil (scary but true) so will they think to empty the catch can regularly? The answer is obviously and unfortunately, no.

An oil catch can does just that. It catches or prevents the oil from re-entering the intake tract. A catch can is placed right after the PCV and before the intercooler. This means that a more pure (sometimes 100% pure) air mixture will go through the intercooler and intake valves. A more pure air mixture entering the intake valves means no caking and none of the symptoms listed above.

An oil catch can typically uses steel wool or a baffle system that removes the oil from the air-oil mixture. Higher quality cans use the baffle systems since it is less messy and better at separating the mixture. The oil falls to the bottom of the can where it is stored until the can is emptied.

An oil catch can doesn't add any power or make any cool noises so it is often overlooked when modifying vehicles. However, a catch can will ensure you are always running the most power possible by having a cleaner intake tract free of oil.

[ezaircon4jc]

Originally Posted by windowmaker

It disrupts the octane rating due to contaminants in the ingested air, and over time oil residue gets all inside the intake, intercooler, etc and so contaminated air constantly gets pulled into the engine. If the ECU can't expect a steady, clean air mixture it won't run at optimal efficiency.

As well due to the carbon buildup the valves might not seal as well or may even get partially obstructed.

Got it. It's a shame these are also not allowed in the PRK...

[windowmaker]

Originally Posted by badblack550xi

i made catch can set up but no one was interested.

You have any pictures of your setup?

[M335]

Check it out my set up @FrozenF10 on IG

[windowmaker]

Originally Posted by M335

Check it out my set up @FrozenF10 on IG

Yeah that's pretty cool. I was thinking of appending it at the pcv output before the oil splitter in order to catch more dirty oil. If I end up catching too much I might consider switching over to your pattern.

By the way what was the mating pattern for the oil splitter output? Is that a custom-fabricated connector?

[warpeacelove]

Originally Posted by M335

Check it out my set up @FrozenF10 on IG

What's the size of the AN lines you running?

[M335]

Originally Posted by windowmaker

Yeah that's pretty cool. I was thinking of appending it at the pcv output before the oil splitter in order to catch more dirty oil. If I end up catching too much I might consider switching over to your pattern.

By the way what was the mating pattern for the oil splitter output? Is that a custom-fabricated connector?

It's intake adapter for gen 3 Jetta from CTS turbo with welded I think an10 male fitting bung.

[M335]

Originally Posted by warpeacelove

What's the size of the AN lines you running?

I think it's an10

[windowmaker]

Catch cans are in. Took a number of iterations and unused parts, fittings, adapters, and hosing to figure out what worked.

Pics:

View post on imgur.com

Overview:
Cost
- Replacement pcv hoses - keep the OEM originals in case of a need to back out or revert to OEM for warranty purposes
https://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-4...cylinders-1-4/
https://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-4...cylinders-5-8/
$35.95 x 2
- Catch cans
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...e?ie=UTF8&th=1
$20.90 x 2

- Bronze 90* barb fittings adapting to 3/8 npt thread
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
$7.99x 4 + $2.99 shipping

- PCV hose 1/2" width
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
$34.23

- hose clamps
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
$6.99

- hose heat wrap
(Optional, had from before)
~$15 for the loom

- Zip ties (until I find a proper mounting solution)
(Optional, had from before)
~$2

Total cost:
~$206.87 + Tax

Tools required
- Flat head screw driver
- Heat gun - For removing existing hosing on PCV ends & stretching replacement hose onto ends. Ends are approximately 3/4" external diameter to give an idea how much stretching was required.
- Pliers/grips
- Torx T25 bit + long handle
- Garden cutter or alternative shears/cutting tool for cutting hose
- Saw - For shortening PCV ends to reduce occupied room and required turn radius of hose to avoid kinking.
- Sandpaper for sanding down ends

See oil residue from before



Stripping hose off connecting pipe



Due to lack of space, had to shorten the crank side connectors, and sand down the surface to round it to fit over stretched hose. Used engine oil to lube up the hose during stretching and fitting.




Passenger side completed connectors


Driver's side installation






Passenger side installation






Prepare to throw up at the sight of the finished job



I'll be looking into getting a shop to create some proper mounts. I want to be able to quick release the cans for ease of removal, and want to avoid drilling any obvious holes that would prevent being able to revert to the OEM look.

[windowmaker]

I wasn't expecting to get such a result so fast.
Album:

View post on imgur.com

Over 3 days of driving (~100 miles) I've accumulated a fair bit of cloudy mixture which I imagine is a mix of exhaust contamination, oil, and water, based on how transparent were the contents of the collection container.

Driver side



Passenger side




Contents were collected in a 1.75L container to get a sense of scale

[warpeacelove]

keep contributing knowledge to the community and ingenuity.

[lsturbointeg]

bro, can you resize your pictures?

[John H.]

Wow! Good job!

[warpeacelove]

Window, how come you’re using a 3 port catch can instead of a 2 port catch can?

And how were you
Able to
Get the ends onto the hoses and what tools did you use to stretch the hose so the crank end can fit?

[windowmaker]

Originally Posted by warpeacelove

Window, how come you’re using a 3 port catch can instead of a 2 port catch can?

And how were you
Able to
Get the ends onto the hoses and what tools did you use to stretch the hose so the crank end can fit?

Looks like they removed the silver 2-port can I used from the selection and it defaults to the red 3-port at the Amazon link. I edited the post to link the black one.

To stretch the hose I used a combination of engine oil, heat gun, sanding the inside of the hose, and a set of slippery sockets incrementing in size to match the outer diameter of the PCV connectors. That and a lot of repetition effort.

It would be a lot easier to go with a 5/8 hose but I wasn't sure if the turn radius of the larger hose would kink and whether the increased outer diameter would fit through some of the tight spaces where you have to weave the hose.

The passenger side is a lot more sketchy to fit so I'd start with that side if you're testing a wider hose.

[Alpina_B3_Lux]

I would be interested in knowing whether there is a difference between the N63 and the N63Tu in terms of carbon build-up.

From my experience with the in-line six engines, on the N54 that was a big issue which is why I bought the walnut blasting tool to clean the intake, and it did make a difference in how the engine behaved. However, subsequent cleaning efforts with N55 engines revealed that this later iteration suffered far less from carbon build-up.

Would be interesting to know if a similar difference can be observed with the two V8 engines - anyone ?

[windowmaker]

Originally Posted by Alpina_B3_Lux

I would be interested in knowing whether there is a difference between the N63 and the N63Tu in terms of carbon build-up.

From my experience with the in-line six engines, on the N54 that was a big issue which is why I bought the walnut blasting tool to clean the intake, and it did make a difference in how the engine behaved. However, subsequent cleaning efforts with N55 engines revealed that this later iteration suffered far less from carbon build-up.

Would be interesting to know if a similar difference can be observed with the two V8 engines - anyone ?

I'm curious if we have enough sample data to be able to make any sort of comparison. The N63TU has a built-in catch can that aims to mitigate some of these issues but you would only be able to tell how much of a difference this makes if you remove the engine from the car for a job like valve stem seal replacement, since walnut blasting can only be done on the N63 with the engine removed from what I've gathered.

Are valve stem seal issues (excessive smoking exhaust & oil burning) present in the N63TU?