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2010 2011 BMW 5 Series Forum F10 Help !Warranty Expiring. 49,600miles. |
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05-26-2014, 08:14 PM | #1 |
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Help !Warranty Expiring. 49,600miles.
Evening, I have few things I was looking to get comments on.
I have a 2011 550xi - Dinan 2. #1. What is best advise on *Extended Warranty and Maintenance plans. Third parties? Any good testimonials out there? #2 What areas should I have looked at before the factory warranty expires? I plan on keeping it for several more years. I love the car and appreciate all the help. *Car going in for oil service, and ongoing but not consistent "screech" noise on starting. (recorded on dash cam several times) and throttled response issues. Thank for you help. |
05-27-2014, 06:35 AM | #2 |
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The best advice I can give you is to shop around. Dealership pricing on BMW Extended Maintenance and Service plans will vary. You can save hundreds by just contacting a few dealerships! I would not go without an Extended Maintenance or Service plan on a 550 because items are so expensive to repair. You might want to check your local BMW Club Chapter for information on Independent BMW tuners or shops in your area and Extended coverage for your car.
You're doing the smart thing by having the dealership check on any issues before you hit 50,000 miles! Make sure you document these issues with your service advisor because at 50,001 miles dealerships start tripping! The clock is ticking so make sure you get the extended coverage before you hit 50K! Good luck and enjoy that ride!
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05-27-2014, 08:38 AM | #3 |
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I don't really understand about extended maintenance plans. Maintenance expense is essentially a predictable amount, based on how much driving you do: brakes, wiper blades, tires, oil changes, etc. Why insure for that and pay an insurer's profits as well? Extended warranty, on the other hand seems, well, warranted.
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05-27-2014, 09:01 AM | #4 |
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#1) My buddy used the Custom Edge ultimate coverage by Warrantech and has loved it. He purchased it for $2700 when he bought his 2010 335i at 48,500 miles. About 10 months after purchase he developed turbo issues and was able to get the entire thing covered under warranty by them with no issues (less the $200 deductible). I have purchased the same coverage at a discount because my car is at 36K miles. Try to get an extended warranty before 50K miles because they cost quite a bit less when you do.
#2) Definitely request to have your brakes and rotors changed if you haven't done so and the fluid flushed if the interval is close by (say within the next 3,000 miles or so). Also request a check of the entire undercarriage for broken elements and such. Drive your car with the radio off and windows up in a quiet environment and listen closely for odd rattles and creaks. Also inspect the front and rear lights for condensation and settling water ect. Remember that after the warranty period your mostly on your own. Try to get EVERYTHING checked out and ask your SA to see to it that this is done so you can have a piece of mind knowing the car is still performing as it should or that you need replacement of parts that can still be covered before your warranty period is up.
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05-27-2014, 12:23 PM | #5 |
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To avoid any claim issues down the road I would have to ask if the aftermarket install of Dinan would void the extended warranty.
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08-17-2014, 02:20 PM | #6 |
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Any luck on extended warranty? I too am in search for my vehicle...2011 550i MSPORT XDRIVE as I am @ 45000. Please let me know as I'm going crazy searching for best coverage for great price.
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09-03-2014, 06:35 PM | #8 | |
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--> ongoing but not consistent "screech" noise on starting I have the same issue, how bad is your? I brought it in the dealer to have it check and they couldn't find any issue at all. I only drive my car once a week, and when it cold start it does that screech sound for about 4 to 5 second after the engine start. normally it would stop screeching after the engine start, but it just keep on for about 4-5 second after. Warranty issue, you should definitely purchase the extended warranty, it will help you save thousand, especially on 550i, power steering wheel and injector are know to be a headache. Unless you have 2012 550i it had electric power steering.
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09-03-2014, 10:16 PM | #9 |
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Because of Dinan parts, I'm pretty sure you will have problems with the extended warranty. The only reason the original factory still stands is because Dinan negotiated with BMWNA and will cover what's their fault. Dinan will not cover anything past the 50k miles and BMW can void your warranty since it's modified. Unless you can get something in writing to guarantee you no hassle with the extended warranty, it can be a PITA when your car has issues. However, I'm pretty sure the extended maintenance will be fine. But if you modified many high dollar maintenance items such as brakes then there's no point.
Honestly, with the price of Dinan kits, I would rather just buy a CPO M5 for the same price as a 550xi with Dinan. |
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09-07-2014, 02:44 AM | #10 | |
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Mine is at 46k miles warranty ends 10/20/14 or 50k miles first ( not likely don't commute far). Rear brakes are due in 3300 miles asked bmw Sa about that and he told me they can't change unless warning light is on. Is that true or depends on dealers? |
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09-07-2014, 09:31 AM | #11 | ||
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09-08-2014, 07:12 AM | #12 |
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That is true. However, I am going to the dealer tomorrow for a grinding sound Ive been hearing for a while. The sound is coming from the rear brakes, and according to the computer, It was due for replacement at 1900 miles. Another dealership had previously reset the car's computer ( I needed a new edc module among a couple other things) and now the brakes show 15000 miles until replacement. My rotors are scored and have grooves in them, so I am almost sure I will have them replaced anyways. If your rotors look worn at your mileage, talk to your SA and see what you can get done.
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09-08-2014, 07:56 AM | #13 |
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Just take a week slamming on the brakes a lot and you'll see it dwindle down. Burn more gas, get free brakes.
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09-08-2014, 08:06 AM | #14 | |
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Temporary solution: Tighten the belt Proper solution: Change the belt and make sure it's tightened correctly. If you don't do anything, it will get worse and last longer. Eventually, it will be like that when you're driving and drives you nuts. If you still keep driving, it will snap and your car will lose function depending on what the belt drives. How to check if it's the belt? 1. Visual check 2. Press the gas as soon as you hear it. The extra rpm will cause more friction and make it stop screeching immediately. It will also get louder/higher pitched with the rpm before it stops. |
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09-09-2014, 02:32 AM | #15 | |
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09-09-2014, 02:36 AM | #16 |
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Driving on freeway or street of lightly pulling and release electronic e brake too. If you pull the e brake button all the way the car will quickly decelerate.
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09-10-2014, 11:33 AM | #17 |
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Depends on dealers. I had a slight break squeal but no indicator light on my 550 and they changed my rear brakes, the squeal is gone now. My wife's 335 is about to hit 50k miles and I'm not happy shelling out over $6k to insure it further down the road so am looking at aftermarket warranties as well. I haven't found anything that jumps out at me yet. As some have suggested it may be a better idea to "self-insure" as the car has been pretty damn reliable or use that $6k towards a new car. I'm really not sure what we will do yet.
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