[uas66]

Hi,

Lately I have a strange clicking noise when I turn the steering wheel to the left. The clicking noise is eveytime at the same point when I turn the steering wheel.

I found on YouTube someone with exactly the same sound:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JxLgoxfFQxk

In the comment section someone says:
The exterior of the wheel bearing oxidizes, and also the piece of metal in which the wheel bearing is put inside.
Wheel bearing has to be taken out cleaned,
Inside of the part where wheel bearing is put also cleaned, and greased.

Is this possible, could cleaning and greasing the inside of the knuckle solve this problem?

[OrcaPod]

hey. I didn't listen to the video so not sure if your issue is the same as mine.

But on my F10 528i 2011 I also had a "clicking" noise when I was turning - it would only happen with the steering wheel turned all the way and turning left. When I was turning right everything was normal.

Turned out the anchor plate/guard plate was loose on left front wheel (it was loose as it got rusty in one area where it was attached with the bolt thus rubbing/touching metal part causing a "clicking" sound)

anchor plate/guard plate

https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/f...rakes/1LepByFD

[Surly73]

I've got a bit of a clicking starting up when parking. Doesn't sound quite like the video. I make a specific point of not dry steering like the video but basically any time I'm parking, reversing into my driveway etc... I've started hearing something. At first it seemed like one side, now both. Was sort of thinking strut hats or something strut related but maybe not. Haven't had time or ability to investigate yet. Was hoping that whatever it is gets taken apart during either coilover installation or front brake job...

[rahdigga165]

Originally Posted by OrcaPod

hey. I didn't listen to the video so not sure if your issue is the same as mine.

But on my F10 528i 2011 I also had a "clicking" noise when I was turning - it would only happen with the steering wheel turned all the way and turning left. When I was turning right everything was normal.

Turned out the anchor plate/guard plate was loose on left front wheel (it was loose as it got rusty in one area where it was attached with the bolt thus rubbing/touching metal part causing a "clicking" sound)

anchor plate/guard plate

https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/f...rakes/1LepByFD

Same here!!!
annoying sound (smh). It almost cost me a trip to the dealer. My indy test drove my car and came to the conclusion that it was metal rattling and not a suspension component. Easy fix with a thin 10mm ratchet. I now tighten them all when i do brakes or tire rotation.

[uas66]

But the strange part is that the sound of my car the same is as in the video. Is it possible that is could be the dirst around the wheel bearing?

[Xrailer]

i have the same noise did u find the problem?

[Boosted M5]

Double check all suspension components are tight or seated correctly. I had this noise after spring installation and it turned out to be strut bolts were not torqued to spec

[Xrailer]

i changed the bushing(31126777653) on left and right lower arm and after this noise it appeared. I will check it!

[uas66]

Originally Posted by Boosted M5

Double check all suspension components are tight or seated correctly. I had this noise after spring installation and it turned out to be strut bolts were not torqued to spec

Thanks, I checked the three top strut bolts, and they are all torqued to spec.

[Xrailer]

Check this guy video

it was the metal shield under the steering rack

[Surly73]

Originally Posted by Xrailer

it was the metal shield under the steering rack

I'd be interested in knowing more about this. It's possible that my clicking/creaking started since I had the stiffening plate off to service the front differential. I can't say for sure, but I didn't hear it prior to the diff service.

Note that the metal plate is more than a "shield", it is an integral part of the vehicle structure. There are warnings all over it that the vehicle cannot be moved without the plate installed. It's held on by 10 single use aluminum bolts which are torque to seat plus 1/4 turn. I'm a little nervous that I may have incorrectly tightened one or two and have replacements (again) for all 10 on the way just to ensure that it's done right.

I don't sit in the car stationary and crank the wheel left or right. I usually hear what I hear when doing the three point turn to reverse into a driveway and that sort of thing. I'm always rolling, not dry steering, but it's a new noise this summer. I serviced the diffs in late spring/early summer.

As far as I know, other than possibly screwing up a bolt or two, I followed the book with all other procedures. I did the diff on ramps so the front end was bearing weight when I reinstalled the stiffening plate. I saw no indications in TIS that it was important to be either loaded (i.e. ramps) or unloaded (i.e. jackstands)

[neverdone]

I just got this issue fixed, turned out both front axles were leaking. Also my output shaft was leaking, but I dont think it had anything to do with the clicking.

Good news is, if you still have warranty, it will be covered. Bad news is, if you dont...it was fucking expensive.

Good luck.

Edit: I didnt look at the video. My issue only happened when i was driving turning left, never at a stand still.

[Surly73]

A little more info on my issue - I was finally able to have an assistant move the steering wheel while I listened and "felt" around. I caught a good day where it made a couple of clicks only having to turn 20-30 degrees off center (I don't like to dry steer - ever - if I can avoid it).

My click can be felt in the stiffening plate under the car.

Some googling brought me to a couple of links which do seem to perfectly describe my issue:

F80 forum https://f80.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh...1068597&page=2

YouTube (this guy's is way louder than mine, but identical in character)

I am expecting that this started with my stiffening plate removal for front diff fluid change. I have 10 more new bolts on hand and I will be removing the stiffening plate, inspecting and re-torquing it.

From what I've seen there are no special guidelines on whether the stiffening plate is to be torqued while the wheels are loaded (e.g. ramps) or unloaded (e.g. lift or stands). I could see this being important and expect that most dealers will be unloaded due to the use of lifts. I was using ramps for the fluid change.

If anyone knows anything to the contrary regarding this please speak up

TIS document (no mention of special conditions for vehicle support, or loaded/unloaded suspension: https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/f...pport/ByHr87qc

[Surly73]

UPDATE: got in there and replaced all of the stiffening plate bolts again and retorqued by the book. A few more days will tell but my click may be resolved.

[Surly73]

I confirm - my clicking seems solved after R&R the stiffening plate connected to the front subframe.

IMO - to determine if your clicking problem is the same, have an assistant move the steering wheel (in my case it was about 30* left and right) to make the click, then reach under the front of the car and feel for the sound in the front center jack point (which is an exposed piece of the stiffening plate). If you feel it, try re-attaching.

Warning - the bolts (10 of them) are supposed to be replaced once they are used. The torque procedure is two stage - a light torque to joint and then add 90 degrees.