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2010 2011 BMW 5 Series Forum F10 BMW 5-Series (F10) Forums General 5-Series Sedan and Wagon (F10 / F11) Forum Rkstar9's 535D Build/Journal
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      02-24-2019, 07:22 PM   #45
rkstar9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Apples12 View Post
Leave the condensation be! Certainly don't cut the light

Run the light for a while or point a hair dryer at the back of it.

Make sure the rest of the light is sealed up and it will settle down.

Brand spanking new BMW's have condensation in the headlights, once they've been run a few hours they settle!

If you Google 'inject cafd' for esys it will bring up some links on how to inject the cafd for used modules
thanks looks pretty straight forward I just don't have internet where the car is parked and get lost. (still waiting for title 2 to 6 weeks wait)

the headlight is cracked in the front lens and back and is scooping up water as I drive, more than condensation there are large droplets of water running down the lens.

Originally i put instant glue on the lens but I was just told instant glue is not flexible so replacing the lens is in my best interest as well as filling the inside of the headlight with silicone wherever there are cracks otherwise might risk damaging the 400 module.

A sharp hot blade appears to be the cleanest option.
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      02-25-2019, 06:14 PM   #46
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Good news and bad news

the module coded properly




Bad news is the module does not initialize properly because there are faults stored in it.





When running test the servo motors move up down left right cockwise circles etc.

but it appears there is one direction in which the servo motor does not move. there is also a low voltage registered in one of the wires going to the servo motor.

So need to figure out if I have a bad module or head light.

Troubleshooting the headlight and sourcing another one would be far more difficult than getting another module. even tho they both cost about the same (400 - 500 bucks)

So new module it is.
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      02-26-2019, 05:05 PM   #47
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Your wiring diagnostic skills are really impressive. It's no wonder you tackled this rebuild.
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      02-26-2019, 08:08 PM   #48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TEF View Post
Your wiring diagnostic skills are really impressive. It's no wonder you tackled this rebuild.
Thanks!! that info comes from ISTA

While I wait for the new module I thought I have to remove the headlight to replace the lens so either way the headlight has to come off.

It was pretty obvious to see how the water got in



Figured to bake the headlight id have to remove the module, glad I did. it was swimming in water.




there was a sheet of ice underneath the module



yup no wonder my headlights are giving errors.




a lot of corrosion built up on the nintendo cassette and the and also on the receiving end inside the head light. plan is to clean it and apply dielectic grease.




Corrosion on the pcb as well. But not enough to eat trough the solder points. If anything ill re tin the connections so they are ok. but also I think water protection is required.




Found a broken piece of plastic inside headlight, I just need to be certain it does not come from the servo motor and it's mechanism. otherwise ill be back to square one.




Headlight going in the oven at 250 for 15min, touching it with a knife flat head screwdriver to check for donness.

Most expensive turkey i ever cooked!





Hopefully module is still good and I can send the other one back! this gives me hope the issue was just the under water situtation. also no way im sealing this light without some way to prevent this from happening again. a drain at the bottom of the headlight would be ideal. all tho properly sealed lights should never pool as much water as mine.

the moral of the story is if lights have more than condensation they have to come off! or risk destroying the module.
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      02-27-2019, 12:57 PM   #49
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Baking the headlight at 275 for 30 proved uneventful.

Heated the lens with a heat gun up to 430 degrees (per IR thermoter reading) and the clear plastic began to bubble up. but the glue did not budge.



this is where I recall reading a thread of someone who did this, the only way to get the lens out is to hack up the entire clear lens into pieces, then cut the black head light assembly along the edge to reveal enough of the glue to then cut it with a knife.


This is that thread
https://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sh....php?t=1119969


Quote:
Originally Posted by fmfm View Post
Unfortunately i dont have any pics (was busy crying for the mess i was in)
first you need to cut the lens around the screws and be careful o the upper side (there are wiring for the DRL) after removing part of the lens you can remove the screwd parts easily; then you are left with the hardest part (the lens part molded in the headlight body) this you have to cut the outer edge of the headlight body in order to cut the glue.
once you everything removed you install the dark piece and the screws in the new lens before installing it and gluing the outside edge to seal it.
dont start work if you dont have a small cutting tool (cutting drill?)

this by far the hardest DIY i ever done on this car (i have replaced the valve cover gasket with less effort)

LOL

going to get a proper reinforced dremmel cut off wheel from home depot, the red ones made of ceramic? just keep cracking and fly out into your retina.
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      03-08-2019, 08:58 PM   #50
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was able to close the headlight, unfortunately the headlight module is dead and does not work. The water killed it.

So im going back with another module to code it and try to initialize it.

there is a possiblity that the headlight itself is damaged due to the module socket becoming corroded. In which case I will need a new headlight.

On other news, all PDC sensors are faulty so most likely the PDC module is bad. So I ordered a new module to see if that fixes it.
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      04-04-2019, 12:03 PM   #51
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Update: headlight works with new module. Lesson learned.

Now triying to get the pdc sensors to work. I ordered a used JBE module. Of course that needs to be coded. not sure what the proceiure is hoping I can do a similar process as what I did with e-sys on the headlight
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      04-05-2019, 12:34 PM   #52
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Fitted and coded a newer (V5 vs my old V3) JBE. park sensors are still giving idrive screen error.

my guess is now the ebay chinese pdc sensors i bought are not good.

will need to source used gray oem painted pdc sensors. as I do not want to go back to the body shop to have the sensors painted again.

Other than that, fog lights are working great.

would really like to get this fixed so i can move on with some other maintenance items on the car. Mainly the fuel filter which is over due. Transmission service is coming up as well as I am at 90k miles
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      04-10-2019, 09:14 PM   #53
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Finally got around to evacuating and charging the air conditioner post condenser replacement

It went like this:

1 pulled a vacuum of 29in for 30 min. let the car sit for one day result =no vacuum loss ��

2 Reconnect vacuum pump and run for another 45 min to draw out all the moisture and junk.

3. before filling added a dab of UV die into the suction line in case a leak shows up later.

4 With car running and AC full blast. filled w 2.5 cans of 134a from home depot. they where about 4 bucks a can. 12 oz each.

newtis says 29.98 oz of refrigerant on the F10 diesel

5. checked w a small scale as well as air temp coming out of middle dash vents. 33.4 degrees was the lowest (was 35 degrees outside)

blue low side gauge read 30 in and the red high side read about 150 which is low but it was too cold today to get a good reading.
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      04-11-2019, 10:19 AM   #54
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Thanks for all the updates and details. Great to see that it's all coming together. Are you enjoying the car overall?
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      04-11-2019, 10:32 AM   #55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by philipm785 View Post
Thanks for all the updates and details. Great to see that it's all coming together. Are you enjoying the car overall?
Yup it's coming along nicely!

Im really happy with it! , it's by far the best driving car Ive owned. the cabin is extremely quiet and the 8 speed transmission makes a tremendous difference.

Unlike all other BMW cars ive owned the sport mode really transforms the car into a completely different beast.

the launch on this car is incredible with the xdrive. even tho the car is not tuned yet.

Can't wait to tune the car and unleash the beast.


Developed a buble on the sidewall of a tire the other day and ended up driving the car on the run flats for about 20 miles. the tire just about disintegrated by then.



Switched to continentals procontact ecoplus. made a huge difference in ride quality as with all bmw's.

after further research it seems it would have been a good idea to increase sidewall size to 245/45/19 instead of the oem 245/40/19.

Ended up paying 800 out the door at discount tire.

They bought the tires directly from continental and installed them.

Sold my 3 good year old RFT for 290 locally.

Only people that want them are lease returns afraid of bmw's lease end wrath.
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      04-12-2019, 09:55 AM   #56
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Know what you mean about the diesel's performance. Isn't torque great? I've had higher hp motors, but the those numbers do not translate into the same feeling.
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      04-12-2019, 02:01 PM   #57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TEF View Post
Know what you mean about the diesel's performance. Isn't torque great? I've had higher hp motors, but the those numbers do not translate into the same feeling.
You drive a gasoline car and you feel let down, the instant torque is what I use day to day. Gas might be faster but I never floor it in day to day. So might as well not be there.
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      04-17-2019, 10:58 AM   #58
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Continuing to chase my PDC fault gremlin, I plugged in one pdc sensor trough the driver wheel well just to see if it would work and I got the following fault codes for the right and left headlight STML module.



800FC8 Lin bus, headlight driver module (TMS), Left: comunication Fault
800FC9 Lin bus, headlight driver module (TMS), Right: comunication Fault
805D04 LIN defective
805E84 LIN defective

Car was working perfectly fine, I plug this OEM PDC sensor and now all these faults became permanent. can't be erased no matter what.

ISTA further confirms there is no present comunication with either headlight module.

Visual confirms that STML controlled leds are not coming on.

Per ISTA most likely culprits are:
Bad LIN bus
Bad headlight connector
Bad STML

all of which are highly unlikely in my mind since the car was working just fine.

Going back to the PDC situation, the codes the car has been trowing from the beginning for them are:

80322E Front left ultrasonic sensor, signal line: short circuit to earth or open circuit (for each one of the PDC sensors)


what seems to be a more likely scenario is that there is a "short circuit to earth" somewhere along the front of the car. Possibly due to the crash.

connecting a OEM PDC sensor (possibly with higher or lower conductivity) either fried a fuse or caused a permanent fault to be stored in the FRM or STML modules.

based on that theory the more likely culprits could be

1. LIN bus is grounded somewhere (I have seen oil migration trough some harnesses in the front. )

2. Fuse blew somehwere, I have checked all the fuses in the back, a few left to check in the passenger glove compartment. very difficult to get to.

3. PDC harness I purchased is incorrect and causing faults, or my modifications to it, to accommodate the front actuated vents is incorrect. I was never able to get the vents to actuate anyway.

Unfortunately it's not possible to begin testing on the front PDC harness for shorts to positive or ground without removing the bumper which is not possible at the moment.

So Ill get to the fuses in the front for now. All tho a harness issue is sounding more like the most likely scenario.
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      04-17-2019, 11:47 AM   #59
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I find myself looking for your updates each day, keep it up and good luck with the issues.
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      04-18-2019, 12:25 AM   #60
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 550bye View Post
I find myself looking for your updates each day, keep it up and good luck with the issues.
Hey thanks for the continued support !! haha


Found another post of another scenario like mine with the same codes:

Quote:
Originally Posted by chaF10
Finally solved ! rockrockrock
So that was not a cheap fix, since headlights got some moisture inside my both TMS modules partly broke down and furthermore they effected FRM3 module which was not dead but did not function properly.
To fix fault 800FC8 Lin bus
I had to replace 2xTMS headlight modules and FRM3.
Based on that one experience along with multiple tales of FRM3 dying from very trivial things, like disconnecting battery or jumping the car Im pretty convinced the FRM module needs to be replaced.

Can't find anything stateside for less than 600 so Ill wait for one from the UK for 300ish.

Should be matching part number from the FRM in the car but I don't have the time, So ill just order one of the later revisions of the module. part number. 61356992947
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      04-19-2019, 03:03 PM   #61
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Got this in the mail today:



Chinese replacement vent from ebay.
Seller claims the area that usually brakes has been reinforced.

Anything will probably last longer than the original lol





Took about 15 min to install. Since Im already familiar with removing the trim.
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      04-20-2019, 03:15 AM   #62
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rkstar9 View Post
Got this in the mail today:



Chinese replacement vent from ebay.
Seller claims the area that usually brakes has been reinforced.

Anything will probably last longer than the original lol





Took about 15 min to install. Since Im already familiar with removing the trim.
Hi
What's the fit and finish like on the Chinese replacement? Mine has also snapped in those areas
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      04-28-2019, 11:41 AM   #63
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Apples12 View Post
Hi
What's the fit and finish like on the Chinese replacement? Mine has also snapped in those areas
Perfect fit and finish, feels very sturdy at the directional vents.

Plastic is of high quality

Doubt the OEM has higher quality.




Going back to my pdc issue I was able to fix the problem, it was caused by two things:

1. Ebay pdc sensors do not work on these cars.
2. one of the ground cables I used to power the front radiator shutter was causing a open loop condition or open ground.

once those two where fixed and codes cleared with ISTA, PDC came back to live in the front and back.


OEM pdc (brown) and chinese (black)



Since the FRM is so damn sensitive on these cars and water damage equals burned out head light modules as well as frm and possibly JBE. (2,000USD in used price modules)
Dabbed all the connectors in the front of the car with dielectric grease.





Then got some 100% silicone and hit the back of the electric connectors.




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      04-29-2019, 10:08 PM   #64
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great updates!
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      05-01-2019, 11:20 AM   #65
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Dielectric grease is a nonconductive substance, will potentially interfere with the plug connections. It is supposed to be used as a sealant, on the outside of wires and connectors. Deoxit should be used on the plug/pin surfaces for better conduction.
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      05-01-2019, 11:47 AM   #66
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Quote:
Originally Posted by auntulna View Post
Dielectric grease is a nonconductive substance, will potentially interfere with the plug connections. It is supposed to be used as a sealant, on the outside of wires and connectors. Deoxit should be used on the plug/pin surfaces for better conduction.
Thanks I did do some research into dielectric grease, the goal is for it to prevent corrosion over time which would increase resistance and potentially fry out the module prematurely.

Applied it around the opening of each pin, Never used it before and I agree that probably using it between two electric mating surfaces is probably not the best use.

As far as increasing conductivity not sure that is necessary I assume the stock connectors do a good job with that.

What i am triying to acomplish is not end up like some cases of G-series cars whrere the PDC sensors end up with water causing modules to burn out. From what I read it is a cold weather issue, where salt and snow corrodes everything.

The silicone on the back of the connectors Im not sure it will do anything as I'm not certain where the water gets in from when it does.

Still feeling uncomfortable about the headlights and the modules at the bottom, a drain at the bottom of the headlight would be the solution, but it would have to prevent water getting in.
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