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2010 2011 BMW 5 Series Forum F10 BMW 5-Series (F10) Forums General 5-Series Sedan and Wagon (F10 / F11) Forum 8 Cyl Turbo OIL LEAK - Non stock O-rings - oil line - heat shielding oil line
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      07-25-2019, 10:49 AM   #1
Bimmerroad
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8 Cyl Turbo OIL LEAK - Non stock O-rings - oil line - heat shielding oil line

I decided to replace the water pump and ended up doing heart surgery on my beast.

See video, that's basically what I am doing now.

1- Have you had any experience with non Stock O-rings?

2- Turbocharger Return Oil line, can it be reused just replace gasket? I haven't gotten to it yet, but they look fragile, likely to fail?

3- Wrapping the oil lines with high temp heat shield is more likely to minimize oil boiling? Or it occurs internally without external temp help?

4- in this same area, any line would benefit if wrapped with heat shielding tape?

I got some Nitrile Butadiene Rubber as well hydrogenated nitrile butadiene rubber(HNBR), since I getting to the parts under the turbocharger, I might as well replace the O rings.

If replacing them all with stock O rings one might as well just replace the whole car for a new one, as it would cost a small fortune. Yet I do not wish to have to redo this same work ever again.



I will appreciate some shared experience on any other preventive work for the job I am handling now.

Thank you for sharing



Last edited by Bimmerroad; 07-25-2019 at 10:51 AM.. Reason: video failed
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      07-26-2019, 12:36 PM   #2
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Answering my own question:

2- Turbocharger Return Oil line, can it be reused just replace gasket? I haven't gotten to it yet, but they look fragile, likely to fail?


It very likely it may be damaged when removing them, they are quite fragile. If you can perform a pressure test, better do it or replace them all together. They are expensive yet, better spend $200 on it rather than have to reopen the whole damn thing again.

3- Wrapping the oil lines with high temp heat shield is more likely to minimize oil boiling? Or it occurs internally without external temp help?

Will not do a thing as the oil burns internally, wrapping may only contribute to the oil burning.

If you reading this and have turbo, it is crucial that you do not switch off your car immediately after parking, let it idle for a couple minutes, read about it and you will know why, it may save you a bundle.
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      07-28-2019, 04:51 PM   #3
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are you all don't any pictures would be nice
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      07-30-2019, 02:55 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EL Jeffe 5 View Post
are you all don't any pictures would be nice

I have over 300 photos, more for keeping track of what goes where.

As long as you do it continuously without skipping several days, almost everything to hook back in place is intuitive.

The worst part is day one, starting...removing the fan was hard as there were a lot hard to see parts attached to it as well small screws. I had never done it, hard for first timer.

Hard to reach small screws were the worse, I had to buy additional tools, however I managed to removed them prior to receiving the new tools, but a screw in a tight space without proper tools will take 2 to 3 hours to remove. I will recommend adding $100 to your budget and get an extended wrenches 6 to 14 mm, skinny low profile, no ratcheting, the spaces are so tight that you won't have room for ratcheting

I decided to place numbered (make it large numbers if you will do the same) self stick labels on all the parts, I took photos of several angles with the number showing.

There are very few items that may be hooked in the wrong place, but there is the potential, most will not fit or reach, so it is a little harder to make mistake.

One thing that might happen is forgetting to hook up something of tight a screw somewhere, I would recommend using small colored stickers or pen markers, place on the ones you did tight or the ones yet to be torqued.

good lighting is essential

If you are planning to get underneath the turbos, I recommend that you do some extra work, like y connectos, hoses, orings, gaskets and hoses.

I ended up replacing my turbos, they were still working but they one upon inspection I noticed it rattled, and if you had turbo oil burnt like I did, the odd is there will be damage even if you can't see. I will replace with a refurbished one.

Nobody recommend diy turbo on your own, read about balancing etc....not worth if you do not have any experience and the proper way to balance.

over 50k miles why not change your water ump, thermostat and belts? all will cost under $200 and are very simple once you are in there already. I already replaced them, it was very easy.

Torquing is more than important when comes to BMW's aluminum screws, make sure you have a good torque wrench or wrenches.
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      07-30-2019, 02:56 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EL Jeffe 5 View Post
are you all don't any pictures would be nice

I have over 300 photos, more for keeping track of what goes where.

As long as you do it continuously without skipping several days, almost everything to hook back in place is intuitive.

The worst part is day one, starting...removing the fan was hard as there were a lot hard to see parts attached to it as well small screws. I had never done it, hard for first timer.

Hard to reach small screws were the worse, I had to buy additional tools, however I managed to removed them prior to receiving the new tools, but a screw in a tight space without proper tools will take 2 to 3 hours to remove. I will recommend adding $100 to your budget and get an extended wrenches 6 to 14 mm, skinny low profile, no ratcheting, the spaces are so tight that you won't have room for ratcheting

I decided to place numbered (make it large numbers if you will do the same) self stick labels on all the parts, I took photos of several angles with the number showing.

There are very few items that may be hooked in the wrong place, but there is the potential, most will not fit or reach, so it is a little harder to make mistake.

One thing that might happen is forgetting to hook up something of tight a screw somewhere, I would recommend using small colored stickers or pen markers, place on the ones you did tight or the ones yet to be torqued.

good lighting is essential

If you are planning to get underneath the turbos, I recommend that you do some extra work, like y connectos, hoses, orings, gaskets and hoses.

I ended up replacing my turbos, they were still working but they one upon inspection I noticed it rattled, and if you had turbo oil burnt like I did, the odd is there will be damage even if you can't see. I will replace with a refurbished one.

Nobody recommend diy turbo on your own, read about balancing etc....not worth if you do not have any experience and the proper way to balance.

over 50k miles why not change your water ump, thermostat and belts? all will cost under $200 and are very simple once you are in there already. I already replaced them, it was very easy.

Torquing is more than important when comes to BMW's aluminum screws, make sure you have a good torque wrench or wrenches.
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      07-31-2019, 06:19 PM   #6
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All done everything running fine
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