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      05-16-2020, 03:36 PM   #23
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Damn, I have the gain at about 1/3 and it slams. I even closed the ski port to see if that'd tone it down some too. Can't beat it for $400 and an easy install, only $300 for you bc you wouldn't need the harness. Some pics of different parts of the install in case it helps...I'm not looking for bonus points for neatness
Awesome! Placing my order on the RF sub. Decided I want it lol!!!! Yup, won't need the technic harness my Gladens finally showed up. They look badass! waiting for my plastic tool kit to come in

Gotta get a power kit now. Did you have to by a pair of RCA's? Also, there should be a significant difference in sound quality with the ski port open or close...what have you noticed?
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      05-16-2020, 04:45 PM   #24
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Interesting! Don't have to run a remote wire
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      05-16-2020, 07:56 PM   #25
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Interesting! Don't have to run a remote wire
Nice!!! Looking forward to your review of the sub. You've def been through more builds than me. Did you also get the 12" 300W truck version?

I've even turned the gain down closer to 1/4 and it's still pounding. Ski port is noticeably louder but I closed it for now since I'm still tuning...once I get the volume figured out I'm curious whether the ski port makes it louder or better overall too.

I had to buy RCAs, power, ground, and had remote wire laying around. RCAs are 6' but I wonder 3' would get you there, if yours is located where mine is. Do you have to run a separate remote, or does the amp hook that up too?
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      05-17-2020, 01:39 AM   #26
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Nice!!! Looking forward to your review of the sub. You've def been through more builds than me. Did you also get the 12" 300W truck version?

I've even turned the gain down closer to 1/4 and it's still pounding. Ski port is noticeably louder but I closed it for now since I'm still tuning...once I get the volume figured out I'm curious whether the ski port makes it louder or better overall too.

I had to buy RCAs, power, ground, and had remote wire laying around. RCAs are 6' but I wonder 3' would get you there, if yours is located where mine is. Do you have to run a separate remote, or does the amp hook that up too?
Definitely done quite alot of builds with all my cars and trucks! I bought the one that you linked so yeah 12" 300w truck version but from all you YouTube videos I watched this was the go to for alot of compact cars ie Audi, BMW, Hondas ect. Lots of reviews from people and audio shops saying this sub packs alot of punch! No need to turn the gain too high. I usually run about 25% gain control.

The ski port will definitely change things. It's almost like changing the sealed enclosure to a ported one. Back in my import days my wife's Honda Accord had a ski port. My shop made a custom false floor with 2 12's and after everything was tuned the sub sounded better with the skin port down. I'll have to play around with things.

Looks like it comes complete with RCA's, bass control knob and what not. Not sure if the included RCA will be long enough? Did you install the bass control knob? I'll have to get a complete Power kit(power, ground, remote and fuse) So from what I've been reading and what audio shops have been noting you don't need to run a remote wire because the system runs a Intelligent auto turn on/off function. a selector switch that can be selected to Auto and supposedly detects signal when the stereo is turned on. Probably detects signal through the RCA's? I'll have to double check that.

Did you run a fuse block?
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      05-17-2020, 08:46 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lsturbointeg View Post
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Originally Posted by burro_blasta View Post
Nice!!! Looking forward to your review of the sub. You've def been through more builds than me. Did you also get the 12" 300W truck version?

I've even turned the gain down closer to 1/4 and it's still pounding. Ski port is noticeably louder but I closed it for now since I'm still tuning...once I get the volume figured out I'm curious whether the ski port makes it louder or better overall too.

I had to buy RCAs, power, ground, and had remote wire laying around. RCAs are 6' but I wonder 3' would get you there, if yours is located where mine is. Do you have to run a separate remote, or does the amp hook that up too?
Definitely done quite alot of builds with all my cars and trucks! I bought the one that you linked so yeah 12" 300w truck version but from all you YouTube videos I watched this was the go to for alot of compact cars ie Audi, BMW, Hondas ect. Lots of reviews from people and audio shops saying this sub packs alot of punch! No need to turn the gain too high. I usually run about 25% gain control.

The ski port will definitely change things. It's almost like changing the sealed enclosure to a ported one. Back in my import days my wife's Honda Accord had a ski port. My shop made a custom false floor with 2 12's and after everything was tuned the sub sounded better with the skin port down. I'll have to play around with things.

Looks like it comes complete with RCA's, bass control knob and what not. Not sure if the included RCA will be long enough? Did you install the bass control knob? I'll have to get a complete Power kit(power, ground, remote and fuse) So from what I've been reading and what audio shops have been noting you don't need to run a remote wire because the system runs a Intelligent auto turn on/off function. a selector switch that can be selected to Auto and supposedly detects signal when the stereo is turned on. Probably detects signal through the RCA's? I'll have to double check that.

Did you run a fuse block?
Damn dude! Saying you had more build experience than me was an understatement. Reassuring that you're getting the same sub.

By fuse block so you mean fuse holder? Forgot to mention that. Crutchfield added the appropriate stuff on for me:

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_120MAN...omnews=6105289

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_120MAN...omnews=6105289

There are a couple options for powering on, I had a remote wire on hand so ran that to the harness as well but there are two other settings, one of which I think is the auto on like you described. I think you'll be good without the remote wire.

There's an audio input harness that plugs into the box, and it has two female RCA plugs at the end. (Directions say to clip off the RCA plugs if you're doing wire connections.) Then my harness (and probably your amp?) has female, so I have to buy a length of male/male RCA to connect the box to the harness.

Get this dialed in and some Eldor coils and you'll be partying
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      05-17-2020, 08:57 AM   #28
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Originally Posted by burro_blasta View Post
Damn dude! Saying you had more build experience than me was an understatement. Reassuring that you're getting the same sub.

By fuse block so you mean fuse holder? Forgot to mention that. Crutchfield added the appropriate stuff on for me:

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_120MAN...omnews=6105289

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_120MAN...omnews=6105289

There are a couple options for powering on, I had a remote wire on hand so ran that to the harness as well but there are two other settings, one of which I think is the auto on like you described. I think you'll be good without the remote wire.

There's an audio input harness that plugs into the box, and it has two female RCA plugs at the end. (Directions say to clip off the RCA plugs if you're doing wire connections.) Then my harness (and probably your amp?) has female, so I have to buy a length of male/male RCA to connect the box to the harness.

Get this dialed in and some Eldor coils and you'll be partying
Same sub you posted the link to on your opening post $269

Yup, fuse block fuse holder same thing lol! What gauge wire you end up using 4 or 8? Starting to scour the internet for a kit. Won't need the remote wire hopefully.

As far as the RCA looks like the Matchup7 has a single rca in so I'll have to get a y-adaptor. I'll wait til ingest the amp first. Gonna order the amp on Friday. Looks like they run from $825-900.

Can't wait dude. Coils will have to wait later in the summer. I'm already tapped out with everything that I've been buying lol.
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      05-17-2020, 10:28 AM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lsturbointeg View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by burro_blasta View Post
Damn dude! Saying you had more build experience than me was an understatement. Reassuring that you're getting the same sub.

By fuse block so you mean fuse holder? Forgot to mention that. Crutchfield added the appropriate stuff on for me:

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_120MAN...omnews=6105289

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_120MAN...omnews=6105289

There are a couple options for powering on, I had a remote wire on hand so ran that to the harness as well but there are two other settings, one of which I think is the auto on like you described. I think you'll be good without the remote wire.

There's an audio input harness that plugs into the box, and it has two female RCA plugs at the end. (Directions say to clip off the RCA plugs if you're doing wire connections.) Then my harness (and probably your amp?) has female, so I have to buy a length of male/male RCA to connect the box to the harness.

Get this dialed in and some Eldor coils and you'll be partying
Same sub you posted the link to on your opening post $269

Yup, fuse block fuse holder same thing lol! What gauge wire you end up using 4 or 8? Starting to scour the internet for a kit. Won't need the remote wire hopefully.

As far as the RCA looks like the Matchup7 has a single rca in so I'll have to get a y-adaptor. I'll wait til ingest the amp first. Gonna order the amp on Friday. Looks like they run from $825-900.

Can't wait dude. Coils will have to wait later in the summer. I'm already tapped out with everything that I've been buying lol.
Crutchfield told me 8 gauge.

Forgot to answer about the remote control knob...I haven't decided yet, I'm spoiled by the rest of the easy install and don't want to deal with properly running wires yet! Lmk if you find a smooth way to set that up.

I got my wiring stuff a la cart bc the kits I saw have like 20' of wire to make it to the engine bay...could cut down the power and ground, I didn't know if that much extra RCA could create some noise.

Assuming your going diy install, PM me if anything unexpected comes up, happy to give you a call if I might be able to help. Looking forward to seeing what you think!
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      05-19-2020, 03:44 PM   #30
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Crutchfield told me 8 gauge.

Forgot to answer about the remote control knob...I haven't decided yet, I'm spoiled by the rest of the easy install and don't want to deal with properly running wires yet! Lmk if you find a smooth way to set that up.

I got my wiring stuff a la cart bc the kits I saw have like 20' of wire to make it to the engine bay...could cut down the power and ground, I didn't know if that much extra RCA could create some noise.

Assuming your going diy install, PM me if anything unexpected comes up, happy to give you a call if I might be able to help. Looking forward to seeing what you think!
yea, definitely install that remote control knob. really comes in handy. gonna have to see where to install it without it being in the way or look gaudy lol. been looking for some power kits and they run about $20 (power, ground, remote, rca and fuse block with fuse) kinda sux cause you only need like 2' of both power and ground. i need to order an adaptor for the RCA's to jack to the MATCHUP 7BMW according to MATCH. already ordered the OEM speaker connectors for the components and the underseat subs do i don't have to cut any of the OEM wires. so far so good.
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      05-19-2020, 08:30 PM   #31
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yea, definitely install that remote control knob. really comes in handy. gonna have to see where to install it without it being in the way or look gaudy lol. been looking for some power kits and they run about $20 (power, ground, remote, rca and fuse block with fuse) kinda sux cause you only need like 2' of both power and ground. i need to order an adaptor for the RCA's to jack to the MATCHUP 7BMW according to MATCH. already ordered the OEM speaker connectors for the components and the underseat subs do i don't have to cut any of the OEM wires. so far so good.
Dumb question, but does the remote control knob adjust gain or bass boost?

I've been trying to get the tune dialed in to a sweet spot without needing to adjust the remote knob, and I have the knob set right at the middle, but when I unplug the knob the sound gets hella muddy. Can't tell if it's because even if it's set in the middle it's actually reducing my gain/bass boost settings from the box, and if that's why it gets muddier when I unplug.
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      05-19-2020, 08:56 PM   #32
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Dumb question, but does the remote control knob adjust gain or bass boost?

I've been trying to get the tune dialed in to a sweet spot without needing to adjust the remote knob, and I have the knob set right at the middle, but when I unplug the knob the sound gets hella muddy. Can't tell if it's because even if it's set in the middle it's actually reducing my gain/bass boost settings from the box, and if that's why it gets muddier when I unplug.
Basically the control knob controls the output of the sub pretty much...not on the amp but allows you to adjust the volume on the subwoofer alone. So if you have your music at a nice volume and you want to turn down the bass only and not the music itself that's where you adjust the remote control knob. I do it all the time in my other cars. Sometimes depending on the music you're listening to some songs are really boomy and some not so much. So I'll adjust accordingly. Pretty much I'm doing that with every song lol!

So right now you're having issues with tuning. The rf sub should be set around 80-90 hz. I think what's causing problems is the underseat subs. Because you're running a true sub in the rear I think you're having crossover issues. You're sending low frequency signals to the underseats sub and the sub in the trunk. Because you're still running the factory hifi amp there's no adjustments you can make on your head unit. With the Matchup 7BMW i hopefully should be able to use the DSP tune to set the underseat subs as either full range or just set them up as high pass and leave all the low level duties for the sub. Leaving the doors,tweets and underseat speakers as a true 3 way component...highs, highs and mids. Hope that makes sense. I won't be able to confirm until I actually start working in it

Edit: I reread your post let me make sure I'm understanding correctly. When you say the control knob is in the middle and when you unplug do you mean turn off or you literally unplugging? And the muddybis from the rf sub or the underseat? Are you adjusting the bass on the head unit?
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      05-19-2020, 10:21 PM   #33
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Yea I mean I have the knob set to the middle, and when I unplug the knob then the bass from the RF gets a lot louder and muddier...I'm assuming that means that whatever the knob is modulating is what I need to turn down at the box, bc right now it seems I have it tuned to sound good when the knob is at half way. I thought that half way would be neutral but apparently not. If it's the gain is the knob adjusts I'll move that down on the box, or if it's the bass boost I'll move that down. I might give RF a call to understand it better.

I have my head unit bass set at flat.

Interesting point about the match amp, and using it to set the underseat subs as mids. Tempting!
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      05-20-2020, 01:05 AM   #34
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What do you have the rf set at as far as frequency? Gain level on the rf should only be set at 1/3. Usually when I tune my system I have loudness turned off. Any bass boost should be off. Subs off and I start with the mids and tweets. All gain levels set at 1/3. With the volume at 90% o start making my adjustments. Than I switch the high levels off and start with the low levels. Sounds like the muddying is the bass isn't tuned correctly
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      05-20-2020, 11:58 AM   #35
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What do you have the rf set at as far as frequency? Gain level on the rf should only be set at 1/3. Usually when I tune my system I have loudness turned off. Any bass boost should be off. Subs off and I start with the mids and tweets. All gain levels set at 1/3. With the volume at 90% o start making my adjustments. Than I switch the high levels off and start with the low levels. Sounds like the muddying is the bass isn't tuned correctly
I called RF - the remote knob isn't just gain or boost, it's kind of all power/volume to the sub...what threw me off is I thought having the knob at halfway was "neutral" but actually having the knob at max is neutral. That's why when I unplugged it the sound got a lot muddier, bc if you're set at halfway and unplug then that's like moving the knob to max
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      05-20-2020, 03:22 PM   #36
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I called RF - the remote knob isn't just gain or boost, it's kind of all power/volume to the sub...what threw me off is I thought having the knob at halfway was "neutral" but actually having the knob at max is neutral. That's why when I unplugged it the sound got a lot muddier, bc if you're set at halfway and unplug then that's like moving the knob to max
ah makes sense. looks like the RF should be delivered on Friday. all the speaker connectors i ordered looks like they were just mailed out. but it'll be awhile since it's coming overseas
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      05-20-2020, 04:04 PM   #37
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Originally Posted by burro_blasta View Post
I called RF - the remote knob isn't just gain or boost, it's kind of all power/volume to the sub...what threw me off is I thought having the knob at halfway was "neutral" but actually having the knob at max is neutral. That's why when I unplugged it the sound got a lot muddier, bc if you're set at halfway and unplug then that's like moving the knob to max
ah makes sense. looks like the RF should be delivered on Friday. all the speaker connectors i ordered looks like they were just mailed out. but it'll be awhile since it's coming overseas
Cranked the knob up to max then unplugged it, sub still got louder somehow. Who knows. I'm going to try to get it balanced and go without the knob altogether. We'll see, sounding great though.

Once the waiting game is over, looking forward to hearing how yours goes!
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      05-20-2020, 04:10 PM   #38
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Cranked the knob up to max then unplugged it, sub still got louder somehow. Who knows. I'm going to try to get it balanced and go without the knob altogether. We'll see, sounding great though.

Once the waiting game is over, looking forward to hearing how yours goes!
why unplug the control knob btw? why not just leave it?
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      05-20-2020, 04:14 PM   #39
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Originally Posted by burro_blasta View Post
Cranked the knob up to max then unplugged it, sub still got louder somehow. Who knows. I'm going to try to get it balanced and go without the knob altogether. We'll see, sounding great though.

Once the waiting game is over, looking forward to hearing how yours goes!
why unplug the control knob btw? why not just leave it?
Bc it seems like the knob is tuning it one direction then I'm maybe offsetting it with what I'm doing to the box...I didn't properly run the wires for the control knob and I'm hoping I can get a balanced tune that'll work across the board without really needing the knob. And worse case the head unit bass adjustment is enough if really needed.

If that doesn't work, I'll look at whatever you eventually do to run your knob wires and copy you
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      05-20-2020, 04:46 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by burro_blasta View Post
Bc it seems like the knob is tuning it one direction then I'm maybe offsetting it with what I'm doing to the box...I didn't properly run the wires for the control knob and I'm hoping I can get a balanced tune that'll work across the board without really needing the knob. And worse case the head unit bass adjustment is enough if really needed.

If that doesn't work, I'll look at whatever you eventually do to run your knob wires and copy you
haha i get it.
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      05-20-2020, 06:46 PM   #41
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ordered an 8 gauge amp kit with 40amp fuse. looks like RF recommended 8 gauge is fine over a 4 gauge kit. lol pretty wasteful since i won't use the RCA's, remote wire and only a few feet of the power and ground lol!

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      05-20-2020, 07:04 PM   #42
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BTW, did you run a fuse on your power wire? I don't see one
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      05-20-2020, 07:27 PM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lsturbointeg View Post
BTW, did you run a fuse on your power wire? I don't see one
Yea even 6 feet was a lot of extra. Oh well, at least you can move it to another car someday if you need to. I got 8 gauge too

My fuse holder is zip tied near the battery (pic):
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      05-20-2020, 07:30 PM   #44
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ok cool! honestly, i'm getting freakin excited!

edit: here's some info i found on the MATCH UP 7BMW

Power Save Mode

The Power Save Mode is incorporated in the basic setup. It allows to significantly reduce the power consumption of the UP 7BMW and potentially connected amplifiers once there’s no input signal present for more than 60 seconds. Please note that in many up-to-date cars with “CAN” or any other internal bus structures it may happen that the radio remains “invisibly” turned on for up to 45 min. even after locking and leaving the car! Once the “Power Save Mode“ is active the remote output and therefore the connected amplifiers will be turned off. The MATCH UP 7BMW will reactivate the remote output within a second if a music signal is applied.


so this now lets me know i don't have to run a remote wire for the RF sub as the signal will be activated through the RCA output and it's nice to know it'll shut the RF amp off when the car is off
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Last edited by lsturbointeg; 05-20-2020 at 08:25 PM..
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