[550bye]

Originally Posted by FlyNikolai

I'm using a BMW Scanner Autophix, and also Bimmerlink & Bimmercode with the Bluetooth adapter. I'm a very techy guy, natural Computer Technician...pretty handy. But this is my second car, I have a Mercedes CLK500 Convertible also

So I'm coming from a V8, but naturally aspirated lol...this engine is a bit overwhelming in comparison

The reason I ask is b/c a few weeks ago I got a DTM and ran it with Carly and found the same fault. I was freaking out thinking I was going to need to replace the motor, I even priced it all up and asked the bank (the wife) if I could do it b/c I couldn't figure it out for days.

Funny part of the story… I decided to hook up ISTA and what would know, intake coupler came loose between MAF and Turbo, 🤦🏽, yeah I know i still feel stupid b/c I was looking all around it. Reconnected it and all good.

Not saying it's the same thing but it could be another fault though. I'm not sure why Carly didn't show it as a MAF/lean fault and I am not familiar with the tools you are using, but I would recommend trying ISTA and seeing what comes up. It may help clarify what the issue is.

Now I am not saying I don't carry Carly in my car for immediate checks and clearing faults via phone and not having to lug around my PC, but whenever I have DTM again,🤞, I will only pull those faults with ISTA. Good luck with getting it fixed!

[Ralphdesilva]

Originally Posted by Sophisticated Redneck

3 different parts can cause this - cam sensor, vanos solenoid, camshaft adjuster.

Start with the easiest and cheapest - cam sensor, 30min to replace and around 60-100 dollars in cost. If problems continue then next is Vanos solenoids. Buy new do not mess around with swapping old ones, they all tend to fail around the same time. Cost will be several hundred dollars in parts and 3 to 4 hours in labor. Last is camshaft adjuster. This is expensive, 400-500 dollars in parts and 8-10 hours in labor.

I had same code and turned out to be Vanos Solenoid. I swapped them only to have to repeat the work a month later. I have put on 30k miles since replacement, At 167,000 miles now. Buy new solenoids if you replace them and save yourself from doing the work twice.


Also in very rare instances it can be timing chain stretch on original n63 engines that did not have the CCP performed on it. Check with BMW north america website with your VIN number to see if it has been done or not.

I had the same code 131101 and i have done the following so far. Swapped cam sensors code did not move, swapped vanos solenoids and code did not move also. Did a oil change with a flush and nothing changed. I am stuck with what to do next and looking for advice on what I can do

[FlyNikolai]

Originally Posted by 550bye

The reason I ask is b/c a few weeks ago I got a DTM and ran it with Carly and found the same fault. I was freaking out thinking I was going to need to replace the motor, I even priced it all up and asked the bank (the wife) if I could do it b/c I couldn't figure it out for days.

Funny part of the story… I decided to hook up ISTA and what would know, intake coupler came loose between MAF and Turbo, 🤦🏽, yeah I know i still feel stupid b/c I was looking all around it. Reconnected it and all good.

Not saying it's the same thing but it could be another fault though. I'm not sure why Carly didn't show it as a MAF/lean fault and I am not familiar with the tools you are using, but I would recommend trying ISTA and seeing what comes up. It may help clarify what the issue is.

Now I am not saying I don't carry Carly in my car for immediate checks and clearing faults via phone and not having to lug around my PC, but whenever I have DTM again,🤞, I will only pull those faults with ISTA. Good luck with getting it fixed!

Hey I PMed you

But it's also funny you mentioned that, because I'm a very cost efficient person. And I was trying for days to install ISTA on one of my laptops. Just so I won't have to buy a scanner lol

But I keep getting start up error on it, which lead to me buying a scanner. I'm 32 & don't have the patience I once did younger lol. I would love to use ISTA to check things like if the chains are stretched etc

Any tips or help on installing, pretty sure I followed all the steps. Clearly doing something wrong though

[FlyNikolai]

Originally Posted by Ralphdesilva

I had the same code 131101 and i have done the following so far. Swapped cam sensors code did not move, swapped vanos solenoids and code did not move also. Did a oil change with a flush and nothing changed. I am stuck with what to do next and looking for advice on what I can do

I would just change all 4 Vanos Solenoids, as they're probably at their life's end if not close. And the new ones have an improved design, when I changed mine out the car ran instantly better.

But best option would be to run ISTA to get a more direct diagnostic. Because the next 2 steps after, are either Vanos Gear/adjuster replacement or stretched timing chain

[550bye]

Originally Posted by FlyNikolai

Hey I PMed you

But it's also funny you mentioned that, because I'm a very cost efficient person. And I was trying for days to install ISTA on one of my laptops. Just so I won't have to buy a scanner lol

But I keep getting start up error on it, which lead to me buying a scanner. I'm 32 & don't have the patience I once did younger lol. I would love to use ISTA to check things like if the chains are stretched etc

Any tips or help on installing, pretty sure I followed all the steps. Clearly doing something wrong though

Sent you back a PM, I feel you on the patience deal, I gave it a fair shake too. Let me know if you need anything else. Good luck!

[FlyNikolai]

Originally Posted by 550bye

Sent you back a PM, I feel you on the patience deal, I gave it a fair shake too. Let me know if you need anything else. Good luck!

Come to find out, all I needed was to update to Windows 10. And ISTA started right up lol

Going to run some scans & test the timing chains etc tonight, definitely need good luck

[chipguy]

There is an SIB on this issue. FYI

[Gocar]

I think unless the engine block is cracked or the cylinder head is destroyed, replacing the engine is ridiculous. I believe that it is easy to do if you have professional lift, But I dont have and it is terrible to work under the car to remove something. Especially N63 engine is not easy to work while the engine is in the car. If I have proper lift to remove the engine, I rebuild it and put back to the car. Why should I buy engine ? I prefer to sell the car someone wants to work on it as project and buy another car. So far I am really exhausted with this problem but I will figure it out. Only problem is replacing the chain but I think I can do it too. Let me know if you find a solution or if you did find ? The post from April maybe you guys still have your bimmers and solved your problems.

[FlyNikolai]

Originally Posted by Gocar

I think unless the engine block is cracked or the cylinder head is destroyed, replacing the engine is ridiculous. I believe that it is easy to do if you have professional lift, But I dont have and it is terrible to work under the car to remove something. Especially N63 engine is not easy to work while the engine is in the car. If I have proper lift to remove the engine, I rebuild it and put back to the car. Why should I buy engine ? I prefer to sell the car someone wants to work on it as project and buy another car. So far I am really exhausted with this problem but I will figure it out. Only problem is replacing the chain but I think I can do it too. Let me know if you find a solution or if you did find ? The post from April maybe you guys still have your bimmers and solved your problems.

I plan on keeping mine, despite everything. I paid $8k for it with 60k miles, fully loaded & I already updated the interior screen. The screen is better than 2020 BMW's lol. It has a pretty decent Carfax history, most of the problematic parts have been replaced.

I fixed little things like the comfort access door handle, new pcv valves, upgraded all lights to LED etc. I'm a DIY guy so I can fix most things, except big jobs. I like to live luxurious...but for cheap 😂.

Anyway to answer your question, I haven't gotten mine fixed yet. The BMW Master Tech, that's supposed to do the work for me. Had a ton of projects for the summer, so I'm just waiting until he's free.

However using ISTA+, I've narrowed it down to the Exhaust Camshaft Adjustment Unit. I ran all the test in ISTA+, and the timing chains test passed & everything else is fine. The central bolt is probably loose, or the Adjustment Unit is bad

I have a replacement unit & bolt, with copper paste in my trunk. Just patiently waiting for some amazing BMW Master Tech to fix it for me 😃

So I recommend running ISTA, the tests in there are really helpful. It does everything automatically for you. Also if you're having oil burn or smoking from exhaust

Throw in a couple cans of Liqui Molly Motor Oil Saver, it'll stop the smoke. Cheers 🍻

Check out my interior https://twitter.com/Nikolai360W/stat...465632779?s=19