lsturbointeg's audio build thread!

lsturbointeg · 06-01-2020, 12:55 AM

Well fam it only took me 6 years to finally get to the audio upgrade

with the exterior done and finally the performance almost done i can finally...finally work on the audio

so i have the hifi 676 and my driver side door speaker had a slight rattle ever since i bought the car. now it's god awfully bad. i've been posting and chiming in way back when in regards to people's build threads and questions regarding what they should run or use? so after all those experiences i finally was able to decide what i thought would be best and ideal for my situation and needs. might not be what you guys like but for me i wanted something tame and clean but when i wanted it to sound like a club in my car i wanted to know i'll be able to do that too

for the components i've been going back and forth with this. i'm currently running Focal K2 Powers components front/rear in my Nissan Titan. love these things. had them for 10 years now and they still sound amazing. these are hand made out of France

so i really contemplated on going with these in my BMW.

here's the Focal IFBMW-S 4" 2-Way BMW Component kit and Focal Integration IFBMW-SubV2

my Toyota Tundra i was running the MBQuartz german engineering before they sold them to i think a USA based company to which at the time a lot of audiophiles did not like the direction it went in thus why i wasn't to sure if i wanted to go that route. Here's the QM200.3BMW components

and my other option was the BavSound. now with these i just felt these were your typical plug n play components for those looking for simplicity. from everyone that's bought and posted their impression nothing stood out to me that these were hands down the best thing money can buy. so i don't have anything against these, just not interested

so in the end i went with what i always wanted to get because of all the great reviews and awesome customer communications i had with gladenmosconi.co.uk was the Gladen's Alpha's

as far as sub duties i was really gonna rely on just the Gladen underseat 8's but knew i wasn't gonna get the low lows without a true subwoofer. now in my Toyota Tundra i did have 8's but it was built in a custom enclosure and they hit pretty damn hard. but in the BMW with the limited space under the seat with no enclosure i knew it would rumble but not hit like a sub should hit. i have currently 12" Kickers in my Titan and they hit pretty damn hard!

so for the BMW i opted to go with a single 12" RockFord Fosgate in a sealed enclosure with a built in 300watt amp.

now with all the gear it was time to decide which amp to go with? Bimmertech was usually the go to amp. but being it made by AudiotecFischer there was another amp i could go with and that was the MatchUp BMW7.

this thing is a beauty and still retains the simplicity of pnp. here are some of the specs:
Power RMS / Max.
- @ 4 ohms 5 x 65/130 watts (front / rear / center channels)
- Subwoofer output 2 x 160/320 watts amplifier technology Class HD
inputs 4 x High Level Speaker Input

1 x Optical SPDIF (12 - 96 kHz)
1 x MEC
1 x Remote In
input sensitivity High level 2.0 - 8.3 volts
Input impedance RCA -
Input impedance high level 13 ohms
outputs 7 x speaker output

i know there were issues from people installing amps with error messages like "Battery Discharge" so with this amp the Power Save Mode is incorporated in the basic setup. It allows to significantly reduce the power consumption of the UP 7BMW and potentially connected amplifiers once there’s no input signal present for more than 60 seconds.

now what's great about this amp is the Mono RCA output for the connection of an external amplifier. Once the “Power Save Mode“ is active the remote output and therefore the connected amplifiers will be turned off. The MATCH UP 7BMW will reactivate the remote output within a second if a music signal is applied.

now in conjunction with the Rockford Fosgate sub with the internal amplifier i'll be able to remote turn this on with the built in auto detect feature. this eliminates me having to run a remote wire from the RF and somehow finding and tapping somewhere on the harness of the MATCH UP 7BMW amp. this makes it so much more convenient. as you can see here's how it would pass the signal to turn the amp on just by running a single RCA out from the MatchUp amp via 3.5mm jack input into the RF amp. the one i ordered is wrong and so i already ordered a single RCA instead of dual to 3.5mm jack.

i've already purchased a 8 gauge amp kit with 40amp fuse

i also purchased and awaiting for the speaker connectors to be delivered. these will help me connect the speakers without cutting the OEM connectors on the door speakers, tweeters as well as the underseat subs

so for now i think this is everything i need so far? i may need to dynomatt the trunk just in case it rattles but i will wait until afterwards. i will be sure to post some pictures of the install and if there's any issues i run into.

if you guys have any questions feel free to ask and post away!

pierreye · 06-01-2020, 10:42 PM

Going to be an interesting build. I'm still debating if I want to cut a hole for the ski pass and put in an open baffle sub for my HK sound system.

lsturbointeg · 06-02-2020, 12:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pierreye

Going to be an interesting build. I'm still debating if I want to cut a hole for the ski pass and put in an open baffle sub for my HK sound system.

For me letting the ski port left down should be fine for me. This will be an interesting build

pierreye · 06-02-2020, 12:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lsturbointeg

For me letting the ski port left down should be fine for me. This will be an interesting build

I don't have a ski pass or folding seat.

burro_blasta · 06-02-2020, 10:46 PM

Excited to see how you like everything!

This was the most helpful video I found for getting the trunk lining out of the way...but I think it was this video that said t30 to take off the cargo bracket but it's a t40, so double check before you strip the bolt like I did! Luckily I didn't need to get that bolt off, the panel folded out of the way enough anyways:

And maybe it's just me, but I was scratching my head at how to take the wire harness off the factory amp the first time. This video does the best at showing how to unhook the harness, right at the 13:00 mark. Maybe you figured it out on your own bc you're taking the amp out but I was trying to feel around without taking the amp out 🙃:

lsturbointeg · 06-02-2020, 11:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by burro_blasta

Excited to see how you like everything!

This was the most helpful video I found for getting the trunk lining out of the way...but I think it was this video that said t30 to take off the cargo bracket but it's a t40, so double check before you strip the bolt like I did! Luckily I didn't need to get that bolt off, the panel folded out of the way enough anyways:

And maybe it's just me, but I was scratching my head at how to take the wire harness off the factory amp the first time. This video does the best at showing how to unhook the harness, right at the 13:00 mark. Maybe you figured it out on your own bc you're taking the amp out but I was trying to feel around without taking the amp out ��:

yup, saw these videos. i'll post a bunch of photos as i go. have everything ready to go except the speaker and woofer connectors. shows they've been sitting in Indiana now for the last 3 days. not sure what's the hold up

jdmfrogg · 06-12-2020, 04:01 PM

Have you guys seen the new generation of 6.5 subwoofers that they are coming out with? They have thick surrounds and 1' Xmax & can hit true subwoofer frequencies

If you did a cutout or infinite baffle into the trunk, I believe a 6.5 might fit perfectly in the armrest hole. Since it only needs .15 cubic feet for a sealed box, I wonder if there is enough space if you gut the under seat sub & plastic enclosure in favor of a fiberglass molded box that still allows for the seat components to clear the subs' surround.

If you are not familiar with these 6.5 subs here is Sundown's version

lsturbointeg · 06-12-2020, 08:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jdmfrogg

Have you guys seen the new generation of 6.5 subwoofers that they are coming out with? They have thick surrounds and 1' Xmax & can hit true subwoofer frequencies

If you did a cutout or infinite baffle into the trunk, I believe a 6.5 might fit perfectly in the armrest hole. Since it only needs .15 cubic feet for a sealed box, I wonder if there is enough space if you gut the under seat sub & plastic enclosure in favor of a fiberglass molded box that still allows for the seat components to clear the subs' surround.

If you are not familiar with these 6.5 subs here is Sundown's version

I'll have to check it out

lsturbointeg · 06-16-2020, 04:45 PM

alright! where should i start? finally got everything in which is why i was waiting to start the install. i do still have to order RCA Male to Dual RCA Female Splitter/Adapter. there was quite a few issues i ran into during the install and i'll be sure to let you guys know what those were. anyways, here's all the trunk pieces removed to expose everything underneath!

okay so before i started i wanted to hear once again how the factory hifi system sounded before i swapped things out. once i got to listen for a few minutes i got started.

got the OEM hifi amp removed. Pretty simple once you look to see how to take things apart and what not

here's the MatchUp BMW7 with the supplied harness plugged in

used the supplied mounting plate and i attached it to the bottom of the amp and than that's mounted onto the OEM amp bracket. pretty straight forward.

than installed right back into it's OEM location. zip tied the wiring harness down so everything looks clean and tidy

Now that i got the Matchup amp installed i turned the audio on to hear the difference before swapping out the speakers. first thing i noticed was it was much louder and the clarity was much cleaner before any tuning was done. bass/treble setting were still set at 50%. i still had the driver side door speaker rattling but immediately i can hear the difference in sound quality. highs were cleaner and brighter and the mids were more pronounced. the underseat subs however sounded like shit! more muddier than anything.

Onto the door! had to watch a couple of Youtube videos on how to remove the door. pretty easy once i got the jist of things

here's a comparison of the Gladen mid speaker next to the OEM. What a joke that BMW would put this in our car!

just look at the size of the magnet on the Gladen compared to the OEM

Gladen speaker mounted

here's the aftermarket harness adapter i used so i didn't have to cut the OEM plug. used heat shrink once i made the butt connections

here's the crossover zip tied. made sure it wasn't going to be in the way of anything

next was the tweeter. here's a side by side comparison. Gladen is the one on top

pretty straight forward as far as swapping these in. fit like a glove!

snaps right back in with no problems. now just a note, i did not have to use the OEM speakers wire for the tweeters as the Gladen's wire for the tweeter comes right off the crossover. so i basically disconnected the OEM tweeter from the harness and left it open.

now onto the underseat subwoofers! pretty easy to do. had to remove the 4 50mm torx bolts holding the rails down. than remove the 4 torx screws to remove the subwoofer cover and 4 more torx screws holding the subwoofer in place.

lol what a joke! BMW should be ashamed! there's economy cars with better factory systems than this!!!

no install issues with the added height of the Gladen subs

installed the supplied foam around the sub

here's the OEM subwoofer harness adapter i bought. plugs right into the OEM harness

and the subwoofer installed back in it's home

just for a teaser here's the Rockford Fosgate sitting behind the ski port. i will post more pictures on the subwoofer once i get the RCA Male to Dual RCA Female Splitter/Adapter.

so some of the information during my research regarding the remote signal that i thought i understood was actually incorrect. i thought the LINE OUT from the MatchUp BMW7 would also remotely turn the built in amp of the Rockford Fosgate. so those 2 cables i ordered basically is now garbage lol! so this picture here shows the cable plugged into the LINE OUT of the MatchUp BMW7 and the other end plugs into the remote input of the Rockford Fosgate which is incorrect. i'm such a dummy. the remote input is actually the input connection for the Remote Punch Level Control which is basically a knob i can install up front somewhere that controls the output of the bass.

so now what i need to do is install this adapter for the RCA's input from the MatchUp BMW7 to the Rockford Fosgate audio input (plug in connector that has RCA'S)

for the remote signal i just had to run a wire from the MatchUp BMW7 remote input all the way to the remote input of the Rockford Fosgate.

i'll be sure to post some updated pictures when i do. Now once i got everything in place i turned the audio system on and oh boy! the single 12" sub with only 300 watts hits pretty damn hard but should hit harder once i install that RCA adaptor since i'm only getting half the signal. the audio is super clean and i'm amazed of how it sounds right out of the box with no tuning. the clarity of the tweeters and the sound stage of the mids is just crazy! i'm really looking forward to tuning this. i'm so glad i did this! i still need to download the program from MatchUp so i can fine tune and set the speakers to what ever i need them to be. the underseat subs i'll set to mids and leave all the low level signals for the subwoofer. i'll report back once i do

lsturbointeg · 06-17-2020, 03:59 PM

alright fellows just completed the install this afternoon! went to Menard's to pickup the Y splitter adapter and now it's installed and in place. RCA's zip tied and tucked away

was able to do a nice clean install of the cable to laptop interface when i need to tune the system

got all the lines squared away. the RCA and remote bass control wire is on the drivers side of the trunk and the power/ground/remote runs on the passenger side of the trunk. all covered with wire loom to give it a cleaner install

what's great about this is the easy disconnect in case i need to remove the sub for any reason.

here's the size of the enclosure for reference in case people were wondering how big this is?

side profile

here's how much trunk space i still have!

here's with the seats down. gonna play around with placement as far as how far back it should sit.

so now that i have full signal with that RCA adapter the sub now hits hard right out of the box. LP crossover i have set to 80hz. Gain is only set to 40% with the subsonic set to 0. still need to make adjustments using the program from Audiotech but i'll get that done this Weekend. so here's my impression thus far. with the Rockford Fosgate sub off since i can turn it completely off with the bass control knob the two underseat 8's actually sounds pretty good. for those looking for some nice kick i highly recommend swapping out the underseat subs with something better like Gladen, Focal as well as the Bav's. these Gladen's have a very nice sound stage presence! i don't feel the need to swap the center speaker as well as the rear speakers since the rears are just fill ins. the center however doesn't seem to have issues with the additional power from the MatchUp amp. Overall i'm very pleased with how well this turned out. i'm sure i still need to allow the speakers to break in and they should even come more alive than what i'm experiencing now.

lsturbointeg · 06-17-2020, 04:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pierreye

8 gauge is fine for 40amp. But watch out there are 2 types of cable, CCA and OFC. One is pure copper another is copper clad aluminium. The best is getting OFC which would be more expensive but better in conductivity.

brother, gonna download the program from Audiotech this Weekend. any pointers as far as setting each speaker to what? i forgot what post we were talking in but we talked about setting the 8" underseat subs to mid ranges and leaving all low levels to the sub. can you chime in on this as far as what you did with yours...thanks!!!!

pierreye · 06-17-2020, 05:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lsturbointeg

brother, gonna download the program from Audiotech this Weekend. any pointers as far as setting each speaker to what? i forgot what post we were talking in but we talked about setting the 8" underseat subs to mid ranges and leaving all low levels to the sub. can you chime in on this as far as what you did with yours...thanks!!!!

I'll do a screenshot of the setup and post here later. Great setup so far. You would enjoy your ride better. I just done 500km highway driving yesterday doing 130km/h to 200km/h. Highly recommend the xHP Stage 3 tune if you like more aggressive gear and I can feel it pull harder during acceleration. No longer have rubbery feel during gear change when you switch from comfort to sports mode. BM3 and xHP are match in heaven for BMW.

lsturbointeg · 06-17-2020, 05:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pierreye

I'll do a screenshot of the setup and post here later. Great setup so far. You would enjoy your ride better. I just done 500km highway driving yesterday doing 130km/h to 200km/h. Highly recommend the xHP Stage 3 tune if you like more aggressive gear and I can feel it pull harder during acceleration. No longer have rubbery feel during gear change when you switch from comfort to sports mode. BM3 and xHP are match in heaven for BMW.

awesome! looking forward to that screenshot for reference. i'm totally tapped out as far as car mods. will have to wait next year to do the tune. still on the fence on which way to go whether MHD or BM3?

pierreye · 06-17-2020, 05:29 PM

I own N20 engine so my only choice is BM3.

pierreye · 06-18-2020, 06:51 AM

Here's the setting. I have circle the crossover settings for each set of speakers. Also note that for mid/tweeter channel, I reserve the last for shelf filter. You can use this to cut slope down the freq from 2000 hz and above for -3db if you feel the high is too bright. Do not copy my EQ settings as I'm using different set of speaker than yours.

lsturbointeg · 06-18-2020, 07:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pierreye

Here's the setting. I have circle the crossover settings for each set of speakers. Also note that for mid/tweeter channel, I reserve the last for shelf filter. You can use this to cut slope down the freq from 2000 hz and above for -3db if you feel the high is too bright. Do not copy my EQ settings as I'm using different set of speaker than yours.

Wow thank you so much! Hopefully once I open the program it's easy to use. If i have any questions or concerns I'll let you know. Much appreciation

pierreye · 06-18-2020, 06:33 PM

It's not that difficult once you play with the settings. All the best on your setup. Going to sound awesome compare to stock HIFI.

lsturbointeg · 06-18-2020, 06:55 PM

been watching some videos to get familiarized. wow how confusing lol! quick question, did you have to rename any of your speakers or did you leave it as is. with your settings you showed above it looks like i just need to do a couple minor tweeks? i'm going to just copy what you have displayed and see how it goes

just to confirm the first picture is to set the front speakers, center channel and rear shelf speakers correct?

the 2nd picture looks like you have for subwoofer which are the underseats not the trunk subwoofer?

and the 3rd picture is line out? which is for my Rockford Fosgate sub settings correct?

just clarifying so i understand what i'm doing here. my DSP on my Nissan Titan is right off the head unit so it's pretty easy to set everything at whatever cross over settings but using a DSP on a computer is much different

as far as EQ settings should i just leave that alone?

pierreye · 06-18-2020, 11:58 PM

No need to rename the input. Subwoofer 1 and 2 is for underseat sub. If it's not clear, you can rename that to Sub L and Sub R. Line Out 1 is Trunk Sub. You are right first pic is for all five speakers. I believe the initial Input/Output routing should be correct but I would just take a look to confirm. If you are not sure, just post your configuration screenshot and I'll take a look.

Phiwee · 07-14-2020, 10:14 PM

Man do you mind how much you ended up spending for this set up?
I'm really wanting to upgrade the audio in this car too, been thinking about doing the Bavsound set up since I keep seeing their ads. It's like they know!

lsturbointeg · 07-15-2020, 08:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Phiwee

Man do you mind how much you ended up spending for this set up?
I'm really wanting to upgrade the audio in this car too, been thinking about doing the Bavsound set up since I keep seeing their ads. It's like they know!

I'll find the receipts

lsturbointeg · 07-15-2020, 03:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Phiwee

Man do you mind how much you ended up spending for this set up?
I'm really wanting to upgrade the audio in this car too, been thinking about doing the Bavsound set up since I keep seeing their ads. It's like they know!

copied from a post i responded to

$874 Matchup7BMW amp
$391 Gladen Alphas
$17.48 amp kit
$25 OEM harness adapter kit
$20 cables/loom
$30 pry tool kit (plastic/screwdriver type)
$284 Rockford Fosgate 12"sub enclosure
$0 labor (indy shop quoted $400 cause it's a BMW and if they broke anything they're not liable)

Total $1642

06-01-2020, 12:55 AM	#1
lsturbointeg Lieutenant General 9153 Rep 14,522 Posts Drives: 2011 535i Jet Black Join Date: Aug 2014 Location: Asian lost in OH iTrader: (0)	lsturbointeg's audio build thread! Well fam it only took me 6 years to finally get to the audio upgrade with the exterior done and finally the performance almost done i can finally...finally work on the audio so i have the hifi 676 and my driver side door speaker had a slight rattle ever since i bought the car. now it's god awfully bad. i've been posting and chiming in way back when in regards to people's build threads and questions regarding what they should run or use? so after all those experiences i finally was able to decide what i thought would be best and ideal for my situation and needs. might not be what you guys like but for me i wanted something tame and clean but when i wanted it to sound like a club in my car i wanted to know i'll be able to do that too for the components i've been going back and forth with this. i'm currently running Focal K2 Powers components front/rear in my Nissan Titan. love these things. had them for 10 years now and they still sound amazing. these are hand made out of France so i really contemplated on going with these in my BMW. here's the Focal IFBMW-S 4" 2-Way BMW Component kit and Focal Integration IFBMW-SubV2 my Toyota Tundra i was running the MBQuartz german engineering before they sold them to i think a USA based company to which at the time a lot of audiophiles did not like the direction it went in thus why i wasn't to sure if i wanted to go that route. Here's the QM200.3BMW components and my other option was the BavSound. now with these i just felt these were your typical plug n play components for those looking for simplicity. from everyone that's bought and posted their impression nothing stood out to me that these were hands down the best thing money can buy. so i don't have anything against these, just not interested so in the end i went with what i always wanted to get because of all the great reviews and awesome customer communications i had with gladenmosconi.co.uk was the Gladen's Alpha's as far as sub duties i was really gonna rely on just the Gladen underseat 8's but knew i wasn't gonna get the low lows without a true subwoofer. now in my Toyota Tundra i did have 8's but it was built in a custom enclosure and they hit pretty damn hard. but in the BMW with the limited space under the seat with no enclosure i knew it would rumble but not hit like a sub should hit. i have currently 12" Kickers in my Titan and they hit pretty damn hard! so for the BMW i opted to go with a single 12" RockFord Fosgate in a sealed enclosure with a built in 300watt amp. now with all the gear it was time to decide which amp to go with? Bimmertech was usually the go to amp. but being it made by AudiotecFischer there was another amp i could go with and that was the MatchUp BMW7. this thing is a beauty and still retains the simplicity of pnp. here are some of the specs: Power RMS / Max. - @ 4 ohms 5 x 65/130 watts (front / rear / center channels) - Subwoofer output 2 x 160/320 watts amplifier technology Class HD inputs 4 x High Level Speaker Input 1 x Optical SPDIF (12 - 96 kHz) 1 x MEC 1 x Remote In input sensitivity High level 2.0 - 8.3 volts Input impedance RCA - Input impedance high level 13 ohms outputs 7 x speaker output i know there were issues from people installing amps with error messages like "Battery Discharge" so with this amp the Power Save Mode is incorporated in the basic setup. It allows to significantly reduce the power consumption of the UP 7BMW and potentially connected amplifiers once there’s no input signal present for more than 60 seconds. now what's great about this amp is the Mono RCA output for the connection of an external amplifier. Once the “Power Save Mode“ is active the remote output and therefore the connected amplifiers will be turned off. The MATCH UP 7BMW will reactivate the remote output within a second if a music signal is applied. now in conjunction with the Rockford Fosgate sub with the internal amplifier i'll be able to remote turn this on with the built in auto detect feature. this eliminates me having to run a remote wire from the RF and somehow finding and tapping somewhere on the harness of the MATCH UP 7BMW amp. this makes it so much more convenient. as you can see here's how it would pass the signal to turn the amp on just by running a single RCA out from the MatchUp amp via 3.5mm jack input into the RF amp. the one i ordered is wrong and so i already ordered a single RCA instead of dual to 3.5mm jack. i've already purchased a 8 gauge amp kit with 40amp fuse i also purchased and awaiting for the speaker connectors to be delivered. these will help me connect the speakers without cutting the OEM connectors on the door speakers, tweeters as well as the underseat subs so for now i think this is everything i need so far? i may need to dynomatt the trunk just in case it rattles but i will wait until afterwards. i will be sure to post some pictures of the install and if there's any issues i run into. if you guys have any questions feel free to ask and post away! __________________ ~F90Conversion~21"3Piece Forged AvantGardeWheels~KWV1Coilovers~CQUENCE slotted/drilled rotors~GoodridgeStainlesslines~MeisterschaftQuadEx haust~Akrapovic 4"tips~VRSF DP~VRSF CP~TurboSmart BOV~K&N filter~CarbonFiberExteriorComponents~GladenAlphaCo mponents~MatchUp7BMW~Punch P300-12T~ Follow me on Instagram: lsturbointeg
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06-01-2020, 10:42 PM	#2
pierreye Lieutenant 212 Rep 500 Posts Drives: F10 & G01 Join Date: Jun 2018 Location: Malaysia iTrader: (0)	Going to be an interesting build. I'm still debating if I want to cut a hole for the ski pass and put in an open baffle sub for my HK sound system.
	Appreciate 0 Quote

06-02-2020, 10:46 PM	#5
burro_blasta Lieutenant 130 Rep 441 Posts Drives: 2013 535 M Sport Join Date: Sep 2018 Location: CO iTrader: (0)	Excited to see how you like everything! This was the most helpful video I found for getting the trunk lining out of the way...but I think it was this video that said t30 to take off the cargo bracket but it's a t40, so double check before you strip the bolt like I did! Luckily I didn't need to get that bolt off, the panel folded out of the way enough anyways: And maybe it's just me, but I was scratching my head at how to take the wire harness off the factory amp the first time. This video does the best at showing how to unhook the harness, right at the 13:00 mark. Maybe you figured it out on your own bc you're taking the amp out but I was trying to feel around without taking the amp out 🙃: __________________ 2013 535xi M Sport (PWG) // PS2 // Spool fx150 // MHD // xHP // FTP Inlet // FBO: AR HF DP, Wagner IC, BMS Intake, VRSF CP
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06-12-2020, 04:01 PM	#7
jdmfrogg Private 27 Rep 85 Posts Drives: 2011 535 Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: San Francisco Bay Area iTrader: (0)	Have you guys seen the new generation of 6.5 subwoofers that they are coming out with? They have thick surrounds and 1' Xmax & can hit true subwoofer frequencies If you did a cutout or infinite baffle into the trunk, I believe a 6.5 might fit perfectly in the armrest hole. Since it only needs .15 cubic feet for a sealed box, I wonder if there is enough space if you gut the under seat sub & plastic enclosure in favor of a fiberglass molded box that still allows for the seat components to clear the subs' surround. If you are not familiar with these 6.5 subs here is Sundown's version
	Appreciate 1 lsturbointeg9152.50 Quote

06-16-2020, 04:45 PM	#9
lsturbointeg Lieutenant General 9153 Rep 14,522 Posts Drives: 2011 535i Jet Black Join Date: Aug 2014 Location: Asian lost in OH iTrader: (0)	alright! where should i start? finally got everything in which is why i was waiting to start the install. i do still have to order RCA Male to Dual RCA Female Splitter/Adapter. there was quite a few issues i ran into during the install and i'll be sure to let you guys know what those were. anyways, here's all the trunk pieces removed to expose everything underneath! okay so before i started i wanted to hear once again how the factory hifi system sounded before i swapped things out. once i got to listen for a few minutes i got started. got the OEM hifi amp removed. Pretty simple once you look to see how to take things apart and what not here's the MatchUp BMW7 with the supplied harness plugged in used the supplied mounting plate and i attached it to the bottom of the amp and than that's mounted onto the OEM amp bracket. pretty straight forward. than installed right back into it's OEM location. zip tied the wiring harness down so everything looks clean and tidy Now that i got the Matchup amp installed i turned the audio on to hear the difference before swapping out the speakers. first thing i noticed was it was much louder and the clarity was much cleaner before any tuning was done. bass/treble setting were still set at 50%. i still had the driver side door speaker rattling but immediately i can hear the difference in sound quality. highs were cleaner and brighter and the mids were more pronounced. the underseat subs however sounded like shit! more muddier than anything. Onto the door! had to watch a couple of Youtube videos on how to remove the door. pretty easy once i got the jist of things here's a comparison of the Gladen mid speaker next to the OEM. What a joke that BMW would put this in our car! just look at the size of the magnet on the Gladen compared to the OEM Gladen speaker mounted here's the aftermarket harness adapter i used so i didn't have to cut the OEM plug. used heat shrink once i made the butt connections here's the crossover zip tied. made sure it wasn't going to be in the way of anything next was the tweeter. here's a side by side comparison. Gladen is the one on top pretty straight forward as far as swapping these in. fit like a glove! snaps right back in with no problems. now just a note, i did not have to use the OEM speakers wire for the tweeters as the Gladen's wire for the tweeter comes right off the crossover. so i basically disconnected the OEM tweeter from the harness and left it open. now onto the underseat subwoofers! pretty easy to do. had to remove the 4 50mm torx bolts holding the rails down. than remove the 4 torx screws to remove the subwoofer cover and 4 more torx screws holding the subwoofer in place. lol what a joke! BMW should be ashamed! there's economy cars with better factory systems than this!!! no install issues with the added height of the Gladen subs installed the supplied foam around the sub here's the OEM subwoofer harness adapter i bought. plugs right into the OEM harness and the subwoofer installed back in it's home just for a teaser here's the Rockford Fosgate sitting behind the ski port. i will post more pictures on the subwoofer once i get the RCA Male to Dual RCA Female Splitter/Adapter. so some of the information during my research regarding the remote signal that i thought i understood was actually incorrect. i thought the LINE OUT from the MatchUp BMW7 would also remotely turn the built in amp of the Rockford Fosgate. so those 2 cables i ordered basically is now garbage lol! so this picture here shows the cable plugged into the LINE OUT of the MatchUp BMW7 and the other end plugs into the remote input of the Rockford Fosgate which is incorrect. i'm such a dummy. the remote input is actually the input connection for the Remote Punch Level Control which is basically a knob i can install up front somewhere that controls the output of the bass. so now what i need to do is install this adapter for the RCA's input from the MatchUp BMW7 to the Rockford Fosgate audio input (plug in connector that has RCA'S) for the remote signal i just had to run a wire from the MatchUp BMW7 remote input all the way to the remote input of the Rockford Fosgate. i'll be sure to post some updated pictures when i do. Now once i got everything in place i turned the audio system on and oh boy! the single 12" sub with only 300 watts hits pretty damn hard but should hit harder once i install that RCA adaptor since i'm only getting half the signal. the audio is super clean and i'm amazed of how it sounds right out of the box with no tuning. the clarity of the tweeters and the sound stage of the mids is just crazy! i'm really looking forward to tuning this. i'm so glad i did this! i still need to download the program from MatchUp so i can fine tune and set the speakers to what ever i need them to be. the underseat subs i'll set to mids and leave all the low level signals for the subwoofer. i'll report back once i do __________________ ~F90Conversion~21"3Piece Forged AvantGardeWheels~KWV1Coilovers~CQUENCE slotted/drilled rotors~GoodridgeStainlesslines~MeisterschaftQuadEx haust~Akrapovic 4"tips~VRSF DP~VRSF CP~TurboSmart BOV~K&N filter~CarbonFiberExteriorComponents~GladenAlphaCo mponents~MatchUp7BMW~Punch P300-12T~ Follow me on Instagram: lsturbointeg Last edited by lsturbointeg; 06-16-2020 at 04:58 PM..
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06-17-2020, 03:59 PM	#10
lsturbointeg Lieutenant General 9153 Rep 14,522 Posts Drives: 2011 535i Jet Black Join Date: Aug 2014 Location: Asian lost in OH iTrader: (0)	alright fellows just completed the install this afternoon! went to Menard's to pickup the Y splitter adapter and now it's installed and in place. RCA's zip tied and tucked away was able to do a nice clean install of the cable to laptop interface when i need to tune the system got all the lines squared away. the RCA and remote bass control wire is on the drivers side of the trunk and the power/ground/remote runs on the passenger side of the trunk. all covered with wire loom to give it a cleaner install what's great about this is the easy disconnect in case i need to remove the sub for any reason. here's the size of the enclosure for reference in case people were wondering how big this is? side profile here's how much trunk space i still have! here's with the seats down. gonna play around with placement as far as how far back it should sit. so now that i have full signal with that RCA adapter the sub now hits hard right out of the box. LP crossover i have set to 80hz. Gain is only set to 40% with the subsonic set to 0. still need to make adjustments using the program from Audiotech but i'll get that done this Weekend. so here's my impression thus far. with the Rockford Fosgate sub off since i can turn it completely off with the bass control knob the two underseat 8's actually sounds pretty good. for those looking for some nice kick i highly recommend swapping out the underseat subs with something better like Gladen, Focal as well as the Bav's. these Gladen's have a very nice sound stage presence! i don't feel the need to swap the center speaker as well as the rear speakers since the rears are just fill ins. the center however doesn't seem to have issues with the additional power from the MatchUp amp. Overall i'm very pleased with how well this turned out. i'm sure i still need to allow the speakers to break in and they should even come more alive than what i'm experiencing now. __________________ ~F90Conversion~21"3Piece Forged AvantGardeWheels~KWV1Coilovers~CQUENCE slotted/drilled rotors~GoodridgeStainlesslines~MeisterschaftQuadEx haust~Akrapovic 4"tips~VRSF DP~VRSF CP~TurboSmart BOV~K&N filter~CarbonFiberExteriorComponents~GladenAlphaCo mponents~MatchUp7BMW~Punch P300-12T~ Follow me on Instagram: lsturbointeg
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06-17-2020, 05:29 PM	#14
pierreye Lieutenant 212 Rep 500 Posts Drives: F10 & G01 Join Date: Jun 2018 Location: Malaysia iTrader: (0)	I own N20 engine so my only choice is BM3.
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06-18-2020, 06:51 AM	#15
pierreye Lieutenant 212 Rep 500 Posts Drives: F10 & G01 Join Date: Jun 2018 Location: Malaysia iTrader: (0)	Here's the setting. I have circle the crossover settings for each set of speakers. Also note that for mid/tweeter channel, I reserve the last for shelf filter. You can use this to cut slope down the freq from 2000 hz and above for -3db if you feel the high is too bright. Do not copy my EQ settings as I'm using different set of speaker than yours. Attached Images
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06-18-2020, 06:33 PM	#17
pierreye Lieutenant 212 Rep 500 Posts Drives: F10 & G01 Join Date: Jun 2018 Location: Malaysia iTrader: (0)	It's not that difficult once you play with the settings. All the best on your setup. Going to sound awesome compare to stock HIFI.
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06-18-2020, 06:55 PM	#18
lsturbointeg Lieutenant General 9153 Rep 14,522 Posts Drives: 2011 535i Jet Black Join Date: Aug 2014 Location: Asian lost in OH iTrader: (0)	been watching some videos to get familiarized. wow how confusing lol! quick question, did you have to rename any of your speakers or did you leave it as is. with your settings you showed above it looks like i just need to do a couple minor tweeks? i'm going to just copy what you have displayed and see how it goes just to confirm the first picture is to set the front speakers, center channel and rear shelf speakers correct? the 2nd picture looks like you have for subwoofer which are the underseats not the trunk subwoofer? and the 3rd picture is line out? which is for my Rockford Fosgate sub settings correct? just clarifying so i understand what i'm doing here. my DSP on my Nissan Titan is right off the head unit so it's pretty easy to set everything at whatever cross over settings but using a DSP on a computer is much different as far as EQ settings should i just leave that alone? __________________ ~F90Conversion~21"3Piece Forged AvantGardeWheels~KWV1Coilovers~CQUENCE slotted/drilled rotors~GoodridgeStainlesslines~MeisterschaftQuadEx haust~Akrapovic 4"tips~VRSF DP~VRSF CP~TurboSmart BOV~K&N filter~CarbonFiberExteriorComponents~GladenAlphaCo mponents~MatchUp7BMW~Punch P300-12T~ Follow me on Instagram: lsturbointeg Last edited by lsturbointeg; 06-18-2020 at 07:02 PM..
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06-18-2020, 11:58 PM	#19
pierreye Lieutenant 212 Rep 500 Posts Drives: F10 & G01 Join Date: Jun 2018 Location: Malaysia iTrader: (0)	No need to rename the input. Subwoofer 1 and 2 is for underseat sub. If it's not clear, you can rename that to Sub L and Sub R. Line Out 1 is Trunk Sub. You are right first pic is for all five speakers. I believe the initial Input/Output routing should be correct but I would just take a look to confirm. If you are not sure, just post your configuration screenshot and I'll take a look.
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07-14-2020, 10:14 PM	#20
Phiwee Private 10 Rep 82 Posts Drives: F30 Join Date: Sep 2013 Location: Washington iTrader: (0)	Man do you mind how much you ended up spending for this set up? I'm really wanting to upgrade the audio in this car too, been thinking about doing the Bavsound set up since I keep seeing their ads. It's like they know!
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