[M_Bimmer]

Originally Posted by Unspec

For rear vent, I feel like there's a steep diminishing return, especially when paired with 4 zone climate.

Edit: The rear climate control panel with the button for ventilation is also god awful expensive for some reason:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/387164435440

Almost $600!

The link is a rear climate controller that is found in the F01/F02 7-series that have rear ventilated seats (two middle buttons), which I don't think was an option for an F10....so the @sshat asking $600 for that unit is only doing so because they think someone will pay.

Here is your favorite type....$70, and it comes with the rear connector..

https://www.ebay.com/itm/28525861584...Bk9SR8zn-bSlZA

[Unspec]

Originally Posted by M_Bimmer

The link is a rear climate controller that is found in the F01/F02 7-series that have rear ventilated seats (two middle buttons), which I don't think was an option for an F10....so the @sshat asking $600 for that unit is only doing so because they think someone will pay.

Here is your favorite type....$70, and it comes with the rear connector..

https://www.ebay.com/itm/28525861584...Bk9SR8zn-bSlZA

I was discussing the control units for your contemplated rear ventilated seat project.

That said, I'm like 99% sure the actual brains of the control units are the same for non-heated, heated, and heated+cooled seats. It's just the button set that is different. You could, in theory, buy a basic control unit and then just buy BMW's button repair set that is applicable for your car. Haven't been able to verify this theory, however.

[zrile]

This is for screen and temperature sensors wiring, the other one is sensors inside air vents and light for knobs and 12V socket has its own wires. I don't know exact wiring, i was replacing my air vents and temp knobs recently as some kid probably kicked it with foot so i wa not bothered which wire goes where, just plug out and plug in. I bought a car with rear climate.

[SocomCA]

Originally Posted by Napas

Sorry need todo a question

Its extremely hard to find Interior Heaters 2hand- Distribution housing, a/c unit, lower 64119241199


Searching for F10/F11 with 4 Zones, I have been finding that a lot have 11 actuators instead of 13.

With 13 i could only find one of endless weeks searching. - They are not expensive 50-100€, the transport is expensive +100€

This two are controlled by the top actuators. - 11 Actuators





M23 M22


But i can also find in TIS that F01 + F02 + F07 had M22 + M23 = 13 Actuators.

Confuse there are 2 versions of 4 Climate Zones?



The other point is
For F10/F11 LCI the Distribution housing, a/c unit, lower that supports the actuators is the following
Autom. climate control with 4-zone ctrl S4NBA=Yes
Distribution housing, a/c with preheater 1 03/2013 64119241199



The only Cars compatible are F06 Grand Coupe



If I try to buy a brand new Distribution housing with 4 Zones, it comes with support for 11 Actuators not 13.

But

If we look at the actuators needed


Maybe we can assemble 13 instead of 11 and all i need todo is adapt the wiring.

https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/f...ion/1VnbhzL6Ge

Why cant you buy the parts new from the bmw dealership?

[SocomCA]

Originally Posted by M_Bimmer

From realoem (assumed a 2016 F10 550 Production date of 8.2016 and black interior):

- 64119290824 4-zone Distribution housing, upper (qty 1)
- 64119241198 4-zone Distribution housing, lower (qty 1)
- 64119166109 4-zone Distribution housing, temp sensor (+2 more required)
- 64118319037 4-zone Distribution housing, actuators (+5 more required)
- 64229166889 4-zone front left vent (qty 1)
- 64229166890 4-zone right vents (qty 1)
- 64229166891 4-zone center vent (qty 1)
- 64119311853 4-zone Blower, rear (qty 1)
- 51169206796 4-zone center console adapter plate for air ducts (qty 1)
- 64227213299 4-zone Air duct, B-pillar, inner left (qty 1)
- 64227213300 4-zone Air duct, B-pillar, inner right (qty 1)
- 64229173393 4-zone Air duct, B-pillar, outer left (qty 1)
- 64229173394 4-zone Air duct, B-pillar, outer right (qty 1)
- 64229148093 4-zone Air duct, rear compartment, rear left (qty 1)
- 64229148094 4-zone Air duct, rear compartment, rear right (qty 1)
- 51437297923 4-zone B-pillar trim, left black (qty 1)
- 51437297924 4-zone B-pillar trim, right black (qty 1)
- 64227211887 4-zone B-pillar vent grill, left black (qty 1)
- 64227211888 4-zone B-pillar vent grill, right black (qty 1)
- 51437325367 4-zone B-pillar duct (qty 2)
- 51437325342 4-zone B-pillar duct bracket (qty 2)
- 51477343070 4-zone floor carpet, rear, black (qty 1)
- 61319290751 4-zone rear controller w/ seat heating, w/o ceramic knobs (qty 1)
- 51169206729 4-zone center console, storage compartment (qty 1)
- 51169288913 4-zone center console w/ rear b-pillar vent holes (qty 1)

1. You will need to use 8 of your own actuators, need a total of 13, but this is cheaper to buy if you buy separately, but it's less than $200 from eBay for the 1st 4 part numbers, bought as a complete assembly and included the correct wiring harness (above list does not include distribution box harness)

2. The last item, center console, can be modified by cutting out the plug plate, so you don't need to buy, but I purchased the center motor, center tray, rear vent, rear controller, and center console as a complete unit. You'll need to reuse your trim and arm rest from your vehicle

3. The list of items does not include the odd parts, like 10mm plastic trim nuts, tray inside center console, extra screws, and/or any plastic trim parts you break when doing this mod

4. If you get all the hardware installed, it won't work until you VO code for 4-zone '4NB'

Your biggest issue will be the wiring....w/o it being pre-fabricated (pulled from an OEM harness), then you'll need to be able to read 'newTIS.info' really well, and be able to crimp wires and assemble your own connectors.

Never took my whole interior out before, so the three full Saturday's required to pull everything out, was 2/3's learning...did it twice to troubleshoot codes, and it took only 4 hours to pull everything out except carpet (front seats, rear seats, center console, complete dashboard)

Good luck.

For these 4 parts, can you buy them new at the bmw dealership and install them?

- 64119290824 4-zone Distribution housing, upper (qty 1)
- 64119241198 4-zone Distribution housing, lower (qty 1)
- 64119166109 4-zone Distribution housing, temp sensor (+2 more required)
- 64118319037 4-zone Distribution housing, actuators (+5 more required)

Also, i cant seem to find Part # 64118319037 online, is that the right part number?

I was thinking about doing this but with new parts, do you know if the parts above come with the wiring harnesses needed?

[M_Bimmer]

Originally Posted by SocomCA

For these 4 parts, can you buy them new at the bmw dealership and install them?

- 64119290824 4-zone Distribution housing, upper (qty 1)
- 64119241198 4-zone Distribution housing, lower (qty 1)
- 64119166109 4-zone Distribution housing, temp sensor (+2 more required)
- 64118319037 4-zone Distribution housing, actuators (+5 more required)

Also, i cant seem to find Part # 64118319037 online, is that the right part number?

I was thinking about doing this but with new parts, do you know if the parts above come with the wiring harnesses needed?

Good catch....P/N 64118319037 should be 64119319037.

Typically most get the whole air distribution box from eBay with the wiring harness and all actuators (P/N 64118319037) in one assembly for a few hundred dollars.

But to answer your question, all BMW Part Numbers listed for this retrofit can be purchased directly from your BMW dealership.

[Unspec]

Okay, fresh new information for the retrofit.

tl;dr: F10 4 zone uses 11 motors, NOT 13. TIS is correct, realoem (on the motor part number page) is wrong. The part number for the lower housing is correct, so use the applicable part number realoem shows but check TIS for motor count. Wiring diagrams -> Body -> Heating and air conditioning functions -> choose one with FKA -> count number of motors, subtract two (recirculation motor and fresh air flap motor are irrelevant), and that's your number.

Long version/background:

For a long time, I could not get my retrofit to work properly. I bought the 7 series/RR version (64119241196), the one with two center air vent motors, totaling 13 on the housing (not including the recirc and fresh air motors). I thought it would work, and scratched it up to just BMW changing around PN's needlessly. Every time the calibration run was run via ISTA, it showed that the front center motors left and right as not installed, and I would get stratification motor blocking errors on certain motors. The air would come out of the wrong vents, and the blower motor was really loud since the flaps were behaving incorrectly and the air was hitting a "wall" when it didn't expect one due to a closed flap.

I thought it was a dead motor or bad motor, since a bad/dead motor can cause auto addressing to fail, which is what tells the IHKA which motors control what. Turns out, it's because of the two center vent motors - the F10 IHKA expects 11 motors, and so the two extra motors were being addressed and "shorting" the addressing, resulting in the final two motors never being addressed. I was offsetting the addressing by two, basically. I found out this was the case when I dug into TIS's wiring diagrams more - I thought the recirc and fresh air flap motors "counted", and thus made up 13 motors, but then I checked the 7 series version of the same diagram. 15 motors. That's when it dawned on me that the recirc and fresh air flaps don't count when it comes to the number of motors, and the F10 actually only has 11 despite 13 being present on the wiring diagram. Looked more closely at the F10 wiring diagram, and conspicuously missing were motors for the center air vents. Checked the non-4 zone version of the F10 - 10 motors, including the recirc and fresh air. So technically 8. Which lines up with what realoem calls for.

Thus, this is a rare case with realoem is misleading - it was the correct PN, but the wrong count. The lower housing for the 7/RR is NOT the one we need, and the one we need is correctly identified by realoem. So in terms of motor counts - check TIS, and not realoem.

My fix:

However, this doesn't actually mean you can't use the 7/RR lower housing. If you find a really good deal on one, the fix is rather simple (with both housings out of the car, ofc). Unscrew the center grille flap motors, pull out the actuator "rod" thing (pull hard, it pops out), and transplant the arm rod "things" from your stock housing over. They're the same, and go from the upper housing's outer upward facing vents, to the center vents. Do this one at a time, last thing you want to do is confuse yourself as to which goes where. The slots they go into is keyed, so don't worry about the actual orientation, just make sure each goes onto the correct side.

Next, you need to jump the LIN BUS. You need to do this because the motors are daisy chained through the LIN BUS, and disconnecting the center grille motors will disconnect the LIN BUS from any downstream motors. Just snip the center two wires on the 4 pin/wire connectors that go to the center motors, and solder/crimp/whatever them together.

This works because the actual plastic housing is universal - I know for a fact it is because the "prongs" that hold the black actuator rod is present on the lower housing, and the holes for the actuator rods that control the center vents is present as well on the upper housing, despite both being unused on the 13 motor variant. The LIN BUS jumping works because it simply no longer sees a motor, and just continues to the next one, thus converting it to an 11 motor housing.

Me personally, I had to do this testing with my dash still in, so it was a bear of a time getting the motors out - actually had to drill a 3/8 hole into the metal dash support to get to one of the screws (shouldn't affect the strength, I hope...). This also meant that I couldn't jump the LIN BUS wires easily, due to how short the connectors are and having to work around the dash. So I just jumped them with some breadboard connectors for now - if they're good enough for ardunio's, they should be good enough for LIN BUS. I also could not get the actuator rods from my old housing in, there simply isn't enough space, so for now the center grille flaps are just perpetually open.

Oh, another tip: run the ISTA program that puts the flaps in the installation position. It makes removing the upper from lower during uninstall a lot easier. Note each flap's position on the old housing, take off the motors from the new housing, and mimic the flap positions from the old onto the new. I had a bear of a time getting the upper onto the lower because the flap kept catching since I didn't do this.

[dom.f11]

Originally Posted by M_Bimmer

Yes there is...I did it....

It is not simple.

There two or so posts that describe partial installation with partial 4-zone, but none completed it, other than me, that actually achieved 100% 4-zone.

Things that need installed for ISTA+ error free installation:

1. 4-zone flap distribution assembly (located behind the dashboard)
2. 4-zone front left, center and right vents (they have controls built into them)
3. Add wiring left, center and right vents
4. Add wiring center vent to front control panel (blue connector)
5. Add wiring from front control panel to rear control panel
6. Add wiring from rear control panel to light module (front left drivers area)
7. Add wiring from rear control panel to LIN bus
8. Add wiring from rear fuse panel in trunk to rear control panel
9. Add wiring from rear fuse panel to left floor heater/temp sensor
10. Add wiring from rear fuse panel to right floor heater/temp sensor
11. Add wiring from rear fuse panel to center console fan
12. If you change out center console for B-pillar vents, then new center console
13. B-pillar right trim with vent
14. B-pillar left trim with vent
15. B-pillar to center console tubes, left and right
16. 4-zone rear carpet, or remove foam to sit over item 13 above
17. Left floor heater, temp sensor, flap assembly
18. Right floor heater, temp sensor, flap assembly
19. 4-zone rear vent assembly on center console
20. Add '4NB' FO Code via E-Sys

The dashboard removal wasn't that bad, and the distribution box needs to be changed out to really be true 4-zone, which has additional flaps required to adjust air flow to the rear cabin via the floor, and center console. Once the distribution box is installed, the other items really just get "replaced" as you put the car back together.

I bought a complete interior car harness from a VIN that had the option 4-zone option, rear heated seats, and other desired options. Then I pulled the wires and connectors required, installed those along the path of my original harness, and programmed the car.

Kid loves the ability to run the A/C full blast, and heated seats simultaneously.

This upgrades using eBay parts was under $1500, half of which was the harness. I would not use new BMW parts for this upgrade...

So 4-zone was NOT an option for the '14 535...but now I have this option.

Cheers

Hi, sorry to revive an older post, hoping you see this.

I have a pre-LCI F11 with the standard climate controls, I plan on fitting the upgraded controls in the front only. I've read on other posts that coding is required as a pre-LCI, am I correct in saying that the 4NB you've mentioned is what I need to code in to ensure it all works (including front heated seats)?

Many thanks!

[M_Bimmer]

Originally Posted by dom.f11

Hi, sorry to revive an older post, hoping you see this.

I have a pre-LCI F11 with the standard climate controls, I plan on fitting the upgraded controls in the front only. I've read on other posts that coding is required as a pre-LCI, am I correct in saying that the 4NB you've mentioned is what I need to code in to ensure it all works (including front heated seats)?

Many thanks!

Correct VO code.

If you have a pre-LCI front climate control panel (it'll have a large external "drum" sensor mounted on the rear, you should also try to use a pre-LCI rear climate control panel which it will have the same old-style sensor too.

Let us know if you manage to get an LCI coded properly in your pre-LCI.

I'm about to reinstall a full 4-zone system in a '16 F10 550. Should go pretty smoothly.....since I just removed it from a recently owned '14 F10 535. The air stratification box is still a pain to install.

Good Luck!

[dom.f11]

Originally Posted by M_Bimmer

Correct VO code.

If you have a pre-LCI front climate control panel (it'll have a large external "drum" sensor mounted on the rear, you should also try to use a pre-LCI rear climate control panel which it will have the same old-style sensor too.

Let us know if you manage to get an LCI coded properly in your pre-LCI.

I'm about to reinstall a full 4-zone system in a '16 F10 550. Should go pretty smoothly.....since I just removed it from a recently owned '14 F10 535. The air stratification box is still a pain to install.

Good Luck!

Hi, thanks for the reply!

Installed it yesterday (along with an MMI box for Android Auto), and coded in 4NB, it does in fact seem to work!

Whilst I have the centre apart I could see the two vents in the centre, they both open or close at the same time, and are controlled by the driver-side controls, but the passenger side vents do get different temperatures to the driver side (excluding the centre passenger vent).

How much more work would it be to fit the rear dual-zone controls? I'm assuming I need wiring for those, as well as a rear blower motor? Not sure I'm too fussed about the hassle as I don't sit in the back lol, but if it's easy I might consider it - I'm going to pull the center console apart to attempt an iDrive Touch controller fitting soon (although I'm realising I might not succeed as they have different CAN systems :/ )