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2010 2011 BMW 5 Series Forum F10 F10 Technical Topics Engine, Transmission, Exhaust, Drivetrain, ECU Software Modifications Check engine Vanos
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      02-15-2020, 10:41 PM   #1
mdbmw1979
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Hey guys I just had a check engine light show up as well as the infamous Drivetrain Malfunction alert on the iDrive. I received the following codes.
P13C0
P13C9
PO52B
PO54B
I noticed a few days ago that when I am at a stop the car shook a little I pulled over waiting to see if a code threw and nothing happens. I turned the car off and back on and the shaking stopped.
After I took it to autozone to read the codes I noticed in Park the car rebel up slightly.

I saw a few things on changing to Vanos solenoid. Is this difficult to do?

Any help on this would be appreciated.

I have a N20 2012 528i
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      02-16-2020, 04:43 PM   #2
Trainwreck914
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how many miles? i would be very cautious as n20 has timing chain issues. could be related to that since vanos is the timing on the engine. if you don't know what to look for definitely take it to someone who is capable.
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      02-16-2020, 06:02 PM   #3
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Solenoids are not hard to do. Right at the front of the engine. If you know what to do to remove them, try doing that and using brake clean to clean them out. Sometimes oil can cake them up causing errors. Do one at a time to be safe. If no avail hopefully you have a warranty bring that in to the dealer it may be errors due to over slack timing chain better safe then sorry. N20s are known for issues with the whole timing chain tensionere failing and chains stretching. What year and miles are you at?
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      02-17-2020, 08:36 AM   #4
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110,000 miles
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      02-18-2020, 12:38 AM   #5
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Originally Posted by mdbmw1979 View Post
110,000 miles
Id try cleaning the solenoids first and see if things change. They can stick and get gummed up with old oil. Brake clean can loosen it up.
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      02-20-2020, 09:59 PM   #6
mdbmw1979
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BurrNinja View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by mdbmw1979 View Post
110,000 miles
Id try cleaning the solenoids first and see if things change. They can stick and get gummed up with old oil. Brake clean can loosen it up.
Quote:
Originally Posted by BurrNinja View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by mdbmw1979 View Post
110,000 miles
Id try cleaning the solenoids first and see if things change. They can stick and get gummed up with old oil. Brake clean can loosen it up.
Your are referring to the solenoid actuators?
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      02-20-2020, 10:53 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mdbmw1979 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by BurrNinja View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by mdbmw1979 View Post
110,000 miles
Id try cleaning the solenoids first and see if things change. They can stick and get gummed up with old oil. Brake clean can loosen it up.
Quote:
Originally Posted by BurrNinja View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by mdbmw1979 View Post
110,000 miles
Id try cleaning the solenoids first and see if things change. They can stick and get gummed up with old oil. Brake clean can loosen it up.
Your are referring to the solenoid actuators?
the two solenoids that are plugged inside the engine with a small bolt holding them in.
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      02-22-2020, 11:22 PM   #8
mdbmw1979
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BurrNinja View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by mdbmw1979 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by BurrNinja View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by mdbmw1979 View Post
110,000 miles
Id try cleaning the solenoids first and see if things change. They can stick and get gummed up with old oil. Brake clean can loosen it up.
Quote:
Originally Posted by BurrNinja View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by mdbmw1979 View Post
110,000 miles
Id try cleaning the solenoids first and see if things change. They can stick and get gummed up with old oil. Brake clean can loosen it up.
Your are referring to the solenoid actuators?
the two solenoids that are plugged inside the engine with a small bolt holding them in.
Sorry but do you have a picture or a link so I can locate these?
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      02-23-2020, 05:07 AM   #9
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Now that i look at the new engine design im not to sure the n20/n26 has the similar solenoids as the n55. Looks like they are attached directly to the vanos unit themselves which requires valve cover to come off. Imo to much needs done for that. Download this PDF it will explain. Page 56


https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sour...EQfTjV7Cls-PQr
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      02-23-2020, 11:43 PM   #10
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Just went through cleaning my solenoids no issues prior just preventive maint, got everything reinstalled. Started up my car backed out of garage p054b check engine light reduced power. Done this job before on my e90 328i had no issue like that. I am to believe the solenoids were oil starved because soon after resetting check engine multiple times and starting up my car revving and turning off seemed to make it go away. So far idle is a bit smoother.
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      02-24-2020, 03:08 PM   #11
mdbmw1979
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BurrNinja View Post
Just went through cleaning my solenoids no issues prior just preventive maint, got everything reinstalled. Started up my car backed out of garage p054b check engine light reduced power. Done this job before on my e90 328i had no issue like that. I am to believe the solenoids were oil starved because soon after resetting check engine multiple times and starting up my car revving and turning off seemed to make it go away. So far idle is a bit smoother.
I read some where that it could be oil pressure would throw the codes. I noticed I had a leak on my oil level sensor and replaced that. But codes kept showing up. Buying the sensors to see if those are the issue. I read the guide you sent and seems difficult to pull those out to replace. Worse comes to worse I may have to removed them.
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      02-24-2020, 04:27 PM   #12
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2013 bmw 528i  [0.00]
Were you ale to resolve this issue? I have similar situation on my 2013 BMW 528i N20.
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      02-24-2020, 07:07 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mdbmw1979 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by BurrNinja View Post
Just went through cleaning my solenoids no issues prior just preventive maint, got everything reinstalled. Started up my car backed out of garage p054b check engine light reduced power. Done this job before on my e90 328i had no issue like that. I am to believe the solenoids were oil starved because soon after resetting check engine multiple times and starting up my car revving and turning off seemed to make it go away. So far idle is a bit smoother.
I read some where that it could be oil pressure would throw the codes. I noticed I had a leak on my oil level sensor and replaced that. But codes kept showing up. Buying the sensors to see if those are the issue. I read the guide you sent and seems difficult to pull those out to replace. Worse comes to worse I may have to removed them.
As i assume once oil made its way to them made them operate as normal. The code p054b basically saying over retarded timing meaning it had false readings and making car have reduced power to not ruin anything. Once that oil circulated correctly after blasting the hell out of them with brake clean it ran like nothing happened.
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      02-25-2020, 09:20 PM   #14
mdbmw1979
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BurrNinja View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by mdbmw1979 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by BurrNinja View Post
Just went through cleaning my solenoids no issues prior just preventive maint, got everything reinstalled. Started up my car backed out of garage p054b check engine light reduced power. Done this job before on my e90 328i had no issue like that. I am to believe the solenoids were oil starved because soon after resetting check engine multiple times and starting up my car revving and turning off seemed to make it go away. So far idle is a bit smoother.
I read some where that it could be oil pressure would throw the codes. I noticed I had a leak on my oil level sensor and replaced that. But codes kept showing up. Buying the sensors to see if those are the issue. I read the guide you sent and seems difficult to pull those out to replace. Worse comes to worse I may have to removed them.
As i assume once oil made its way to them made them operate as normal. The code p054b basically saying over retarded timing meaning it had false readings and making car have reduced power to not ruin anything. Once that oil circulated correctly after blasting the hell out of them with brake clean it ran like nothing happened.
I tested the sensors today and they only had 4 volts going through them, supposed to be 5. When I touched the magnetic tip with a metal wrench the voltage didn't go to zero they went up. Right now it's looking like bad sensors.

However now I have to replace the intake sensor wire because I accidentally cut the wire when removing the sheath to test the sensor. It just keeps getting worse!

I'm just real hesitant to rev the engine and the chain break or something else.

No I have not fixed the issue yet.
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      02-25-2020, 09:45 PM   #15
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Its all a learning process.

Im sure you will solve this issue, unless others can chime in with similar issue. Try youtube or google to see if anything comes up with those check engine codes.

Can you splice the cut wire and heat shrink it?


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      02-25-2020, 09:47 PM   #16
mdbmw1979
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Its all a learning process, I came to bmw from a 05 accord to an 08 e90 328i. Never took it in shop I just started to DIY all my issues. Youtube helped me tons. Just to understand what needs done I research for hours at a time.

Im sure you will solve this issue, unless others can chime in with similar issue.

Having learned most from the n52 to now owning a n55 engine makes it easier. Sorry im no help.
Ha...hey it's nice to have someone talk it over with appreciate it. Will update this post once i figure it out.
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      06-16-2021, 12:42 PM   #17
mdbmw1979
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Turned out it was the timing chain. I had to replace it myself. took me a year to finally get to it with COVID and stuff but she is up and running now.
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      06-16-2021, 07:52 PM   #18
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rear wheel or xdrive? I'm about to do the chain dance on my 12 528i x n20, along with vac pump, partial or full used turbo, and check air piping. Any tips, tricks, etc you can share? Thanks,
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      06-16-2021, 10:52 PM   #19
mdbmw1979
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rear wheel or xdrive? I'm about to do the chain dance on my 12 528i x n20, along with vac pump, partial or full used turbo, and check air piping. Any tips, tricks, etc you can share? Thanks,
It's a rear wheel drive. Best advice is to take your time and remove each piece carefully. I unfortunately, when putting the car in TDC, jumped the chain a few teeth which caused the car to get out of time. I had to put it in TDC, lock the fly wheel, and lock the oil pump, then wiggle the chain off the cam sprockets to move the cam shaft in time. Was very nerve racking. I recommend watching this video.
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