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2010 2011 BMW 5 Series Forum F10 F10 Technical Topics Engine, Transmission, Exhaust, Drivetrain, ECU Software Modifications Cross threaded spark plug broke in cylinder block
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      02-17-2020, 12:59 PM   #1
tranv117
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Cross threaded spark plug broke in cylinder block

So long story short, I broke my spark plug in Cylinder 3 of my 2016 BMW 535i N55.

I’ve attempted EZ Out screw extractor and have been unsuccessful. Finally brought the car to a shop and was recommended to change out the cylinder head.

Does this sound right? They didn’t attempt to remove the spark plug at all. I was also googling and noticed that it may be possible to remove the plug and possibly machine the head to get the threads back?

What are people’s opinion on this?
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      02-17-2020, 01:35 PM   #2
95blkmax
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I know rebuilding old american iron heads this was possible. But with soft aluminum heads I am not sure! They could re-tap it to a larger spark plug... but to "re-establish" the stock thread on a soft aluminum head I am not familiar with.

Not saying it can't be done! Just never seen it done myself without having to up to a larger thread spark plug. I'm thinking particularly of the angle on our spark plug tubes and the fact we already have to use a thin wall socket to get to the plugs... this maybe a deal breaker if the only way were to up the thread size and force you to get a new head.

Please keep us updated in what happens! Sucks this happened to you!
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      02-17-2020, 01:42 PM   #3
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I’m still waiting for a call back from the shop. This whole situation just sucks. My heart stopped when I heard the spark plug snap.

The shop told me to replace the cylinder head would be more cost in labor than to replace the entire engine. He is getting a quote for a used engine.

It was estimated that the cylinder head replacement will take 36 hours of labor while the engine is half that time. Does this sound right to people? I have no experience in this.
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      02-17-2020, 01:59 PM   #4
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yes that does sound about right! You can also call LKQ yourself and ask them for a quote on your engine (just so you know more or less what to expect from the shop on their end).

When calling LKQ they'll want to know the year, if it's AWD or RWD (will affect the oil pan), and mileage (to try to get you something similar or lower mileage).

also as an FYI- not sure about that shop but here when we have to replace an engine (be it a new or used engine) you got a list of parts to replace along with it to ensure no leaks (last thing you want is for the customer to come back when it could have been avoided to begin with). So things that have to be swapped over you'll want to replace their gaskets. Like intake manifold gaskets, exhaust manifold gaskets, turbo install kit if available (typically includes oil feed & drain lines, coolant lines o-rings, turbo to downpipe gasket and v-band), you'll also want new o-rings for the oil cooler lines at the oil filter housing heat exchanger, fuel injector seals and decoupling elements (the metal snap clips typically break/ bend when removing so you want to replace these).
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      02-17-2020, 02:21 PM   #5
HizEternal
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It can be done, 3 years ago I broke the #5 plug in the head below where the extractor would work. Had to get the head machined. They heli coiled it and it’s been fine ever since.
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      02-17-2020, 02:44 PM   #6
tranv117
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Update:

Shitty situation just got worse. Shops able to pull the plug out but porcelain got down inside the head. With that, I’ve driven the car since in order to get the car to the shop. Don’t know what the best method is but I’m now having to replace the engine block...
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      02-17-2020, 03:10 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HizEternal View Post
It can be done, 3 years ago I broke the #5 plug in the head below where the extractor would work. Had to get the head machined. They heli coiled it and it’s been fine ever since.
Good to know! I wasn't sure if helicoil could work on this sort of application! Thanks

Quote:
Originally Posted by tranv117 View Post
Update:

Shitty situation just got worse. Shops able to pull the plug out but porcelain got down inside the head. With that, I’ve driven the car since in order to get the car to the shop. Don’t know what the best method is but I’m now having to replace the engine block...
Did the cylinder walls get scored by the porcelain? I'd also be concerned about the blades on the turbine wheel. If you still have your factory downpipe, those chunks would have ended up lodged at the front of the honeycomb as well.
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      02-17-2020, 04:04 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tranv117 View Post
Update:

Shitty situation just got worse. Shops able to pull the plug out but porcelain got down inside the head. With that, I’ve driven the car since in order to get the car to the shop. Don’t know what the best method is but I’m now having to replace the engine block...
What if that went down after they removed it and not while you drove the car?
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      02-17-2020, 05:30 PM   #9
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They should be able to scope it before assuming worst case
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      02-17-2020, 09:40 PM   #10
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If the plug won't come out...then how can a piece of porcelain make it into the head? That doesn't make sense to me. I looked into used n55's and it looks like they're going for about $4000. Sucks this happened to you. Good luck with it. Also. The old Ford F-150 had this issue 2004+. Where all the plugs would break when replacing them. They came up with a tool that extracts broken plugs. You may want to look into that
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      02-17-2020, 11:56 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Trainwreck914 View Post
If the plug won't come out...then how can a piece of porcelain make it into the head? That doesn't make sense to me. I looked into used n55's and it looks like they're going for about $4000. Sucks this happened to you. Good luck with it. Also. The old Ford F-150 had this issue 2004+. Where all the plugs would break when replacing them. They came up with a tool that extracts broken plugs. You may want to look into that
Exactly what I was thinking.... The shop wants to milk money from him.
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      02-18-2020, 06:45 AM   #12
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Yeah and 36 hours seems like a lot to do a head gasket it's really not that hard to disassemble. Probably no more than 6 hr for that. Then has to be either sent out or machined in house. Few hours about 2-3 and then reassembled and timed. So I'd say 14-18 hrs sounds reasonable.
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      02-18-2020, 02:33 PM   #13
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Is this from the socket not being seated in fully?
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      02-20-2020, 09:58 AM   #14
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The backyard mech in me wants to say just extract plug get new plug and cold weld that bitch in then drive. When car needs plugs again then build it swap motor . If wasnt so new I'd def go that route but if anything it's a way to get you going for now. Def don't tune it tho if you do that lol
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      02-20-2020, 07:43 PM   #15
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How do you know it was cross threaded? A lot of this isn't adding up.
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      02-21-2020, 05:42 AM   #16
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U might be able to get an insert if u destroyed the threads. People in the Lightning community have inserts installed when they blow plugs from to much boost/incorrectly torqued plugs.
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      02-21-2020, 01:03 PM   #17
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Dude this sucks. Sorry to hear this. On the cup half full side of things replace the engine, tear down the old one and build a freaking monster out of it and keep your stock replacement as a back up.
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      02-22-2020, 08:17 AM   #18
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This isn't at all helpful, but just dropping in to commiserate that this stuff is the stuff of nightmares for this "DIY to save money and know the job is done right" kind of guy....
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      02-22-2020, 09:31 AM   #19
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Update: After this entire incident, I don’t think I’ll ever be working on cars again! Haha. I’m a novice and can do some things here and there. Ultimately it was a mix of bad luck and inexperience.

Got a brand new engine block and had it replaced. I’m calling it a very expensive lesson learned and am moving on. My car is now back on the road which is all I really care about right now.
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      02-22-2020, 09:32 AM   #20
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wow man. well... i know this doesn't help you, but i'm going to be a heck of a lot more careful doing this job in the future.
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      02-22-2020, 11:39 AM   #21
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Plugs have ALWAYS scared me; and I've been changing them for going on 50 years (no, I'm not that YouTube hack!)!. The porcelain has always seemed too brittle and I'm afraid of it breaking. Seems like too delicate a job for something so simple!
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      02-22-2020, 12:22 PM   #22
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Its just a job where you have to be ultra careful. Always hand tighten, make sure the threads are clean, plugs are lined up straight, and go slow.

If your hand feel there is tightness for no good reason, back it out, find out why and restart. Kinda like assembling ikea furnitures (except they are a lot cheaper lol)

It sounds so basic but a lot of ppl don't do it.

The moment you rush, you will break stuff.
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