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2010 2011 BMW 5 Series Forum F10 F10 Technical Topics Wheels / Tires / Suspension / Brakes How do you break stuck caliper mounting bolts?
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      08-23-2020, 10:14 AM   #1
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How do you break stuck caliper mounting bolts?

I had hardest time getting in and braking off caliper mounting bolts to be able to remove the rotors. Breaker bar does't fit into wheel well (except under the car for lower bolts in some cases, my car was on 4 jack stands on lowest height), impact wrenches also don't fit well behind the wheel (so many things are in the way).
My rear caliper bolts were especially difficult because they were original rotors and brake pads (83K miles). Everything was stuck, bolts, rotors... I managed to get everything out but I wasted hours to get stuck bolts off and bang out stuck rotors. Brake pads and rotor replacement for each wheel is 10-15 min job maybe another 5-10 min for brake sensors but it took me most of Saturday to get all 4 rotors and brake pads replaced with a trip to Home Depot to get high torque impact wrench (which helped).

Any pointers you can give me on how to make this process easier in the future and tools to use would be highly appreciated.
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      08-23-2020, 03:01 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dzz View Post
I had hardest time getting in and braking off caliper mounting bolts to be able to remove the rotors. Breaker bar does't fit into wheel well (except under the car for lower bolts in some cases, my car was on 4 jack stands on lowest height), impact wrenches also don't fit well behind the wheel (so many things are in the way).
My rear caliper bolts were especially difficult because they were original rotors and brake pads (83K miles). Everything was stuck, bolts, rotors... I managed to get everything out but I wasted hours to get stuck bolts off and bang out stuck rotors. Brake pads and rotor replacement for each wheel is 10-15 min job maybe another 5-10 min for brake sensors but it took me most of Saturday to get all 4 rotors and brake pads replaced with a trip to Home Depot to get high torque impact wrench (which helped).

Any pointers you can give me on how to make this process easier in the future and tools to use would be highly appreciated.
Have someone in the car crank the wheel and hold it to full lock, should be able to fit something in there. At least for fronts.
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      08-23-2020, 05:10 PM   #3
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Penetrating oil like PB Blaster or Liquid Wrench. Spray on and let it soak in for 10 minutes or so.
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      08-23-2020, 10:54 PM   #4
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you couldn't use a swivel adaptor with an extension? i believe that's what i used along with an impact gun. also use some anti seize when you put the bolts back on
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      08-24-2020, 12:17 AM   #5
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Originally Posted by BurrNinja View Post
Have someone in the car crank the wheel and hold it to full lock, should be able to fit something in there. At least for fronts.
I did that and it helped little bit. I have a feeling that dealership that replaced front rotors/pads once before has maybe over-torqued the bolts. From what I understand these bolts should be torqued to 81 lb ft of torque, but it felt like they were torqued to at least double of that.
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      08-24-2020, 12:20 AM   #6
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Originally Posted by ezaircon4jc View Post
Penetrating oil like PB Blaster or Liquid Wrench. Spray on and let it soak in for 10 minutes or so.
I've used WD40, probably not same penetration, but it didn't help at all.
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      08-24-2020, 12:40 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lsturbointeg View Post
you couldn't use a swivel adaptor with an extension? i believe that's what i used along with an impact gun. also use some anti seize when you put the bolts back on
I've used https://www.homedepot.com/p/RIDGID-1...011B/301996008 impact wrench. It did work well when I was able to get to the bolt directly or with the extension. I tried to use impact wrench with the swivel adaptor but it didn't work. Rigid impact wrench is fairly big and it was difficult to fit it in the position to get it in line with the bolts. I did use generous amount of anti seize.
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      08-24-2020, 02:38 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dzz View Post
I've used WD40, probably not same penetration, but it didn't help at all.
WD-40 isn't really a penetrating oil or lubricant; unless you're talking about one of its variations. You'll need a purpose penetrating oil.
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      08-25-2020, 07:05 PM   #9
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I would strongly advise against using any form of adapter with an impact wrench, especially swivel.

When I can't use my beast of a Milwaukee impact wrench, I immediacy turn to this. Hasn't failed me yet on stubborn bolts/nuts.

https://www.gearwrench.com/ratchets-...atchet-24.html


Quote:
Originally Posted by dzz View Post
I've used https://www.homedepot.com/p/RIDGID-1...011B/301996008 impact wrench. It did work well when I was able to get to the bolt directly or with the extension. I tried to use impact wrench with the swivel adaptor but it didn't work. Rigid impact wrench is fairly big and it was difficult to fit it in the position to get it in line with the bolts. I did use generous amount of anti seize.
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      08-27-2020, 09:08 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spielnicht View Post
I would strongly advise against using any form of adapter with an impact wrench, especially swivel.

When I can't use my beast of a Milwaukee impact wrench, I immediacy turn to this. Hasn't failed me yet on stubborn bolts/nuts.

https://www.gearwrench.com/ratchets-...atchet-24.html


Quote:
Originally Posted by dzz View Post
I've used https://www.homedepot.com/p/RIDGID-1...011B/301996008 impact wrench. It did work well when I was able to get to the bolt directly or with the extension. I tried to use impact wrench with the swivel adaptor but it didn't work. Rigid impact wrench is fairly big and it was difficult to fit it in the position to get it in line with the bolts. I did use generous amount of anti seize.
Flexhead ratchet looks interesting but in my experience head of ratchet is usually too wide to fit in the area for one of the caliper bolts and this is where I used extensions.
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      08-29-2020, 08:25 AM   #11
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If you can get a ratchet, or better yet a break bar, on the bolt, and you can get enough room around it, then you can always try to slide a thick walled pipe on the end of the breaker bar to get more leverage to help break it loose.

And I also believe strongly in using a product called "Kroil" for breaking free stubborn bolts. Make sure to soak it and let it sit a few times before trying to get the bolt loose. It's in a league of its own compared to WD-40 and PB blaster. It's all we use at work when tearing apart gas and steam turbines in power plants that are temperatures at or above 1000 degrees.
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      08-29-2020, 09:04 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SWFLf10 View Post
If you can get a ratchet, or better yet a break bar, on the bolt, and you can get enough room around it, then you can always try to slide a thick walled pipe on the end of the breaker bar to get more leverage to help break it loose.

And I also believe strongly in using a product called "Kroil" for breaking free stubborn bolts. Make sure to soak it and let it sit a few times before trying to get the bolt loose. It's in a league of its own compared to WD-40 and PB blaster. It's all we use at work when tearing apart gas and steam turbines in power plants that are temperatures at or above 1000 degrees.
Thank you, I got PB Blaster yesterday and I'll get Kroil too. I wasted way too much time on stuck bolts so it is good to have penetrating fluids around
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      08-29-2020, 04:30 PM   #13
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I just did my front rotors yesterday. You need to fully turn the wheel to one side in order to fit the breaker bar in the wheel well.
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      08-29-2020, 05:47 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TZ View Post
I just did my front rotors yesterday. You need to fully turn the wheel to one side in order to fit the breaker bar in the wheel well.
I have read somewhere that it is better to use 6 sides 13mm socket than 12 sides. Does anyone have any experience regarding this?
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      08-30-2020, 08:28 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dzz View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by TZ View Post
I just did my front rotors yesterday. You need to fully turn the wheel to one side in order to fit the breaker bar in the wheel well.
I have read somewhere that it is better to use 6 sides 13mm socket than 12 sides. Does anyone have any experience regarding this?

It’s always better to use a socket with the same amount of sides as the head of the bolt. With a 12 point socket on a bolt head with 6 sides, it’s more likely to round the head of the bolt.
Quote:
Originally Posted by TZ View Post
I just did my front rotors yesterday. You need to fully turn the wheel to one side in order to fit the breaker bar in the wheel well.
I have read somewhere that it is better to use 6 sides 13mm socket than 12 sides. Does anyone have any experience regarding this?

It's always better to use a socket with the same amount of sides as the head of the bolt. With a 12 point socket on a bolt head with 6 sides, it's more likely to round the head of the bolt.
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      08-30-2020, 09:25 AM   #16
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Righty tighty, lefty loosey. Just in case :-D
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      08-30-2020, 10:48 AM   #17
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Righty tighty, lefty loosey. Just in case :-D
Trust me, I wish that was my issue 😁
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      10-04-2020, 10:14 PM   #18
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I had a similar issue when replacing rotors and pads. I used some penetrating oil, but at the end of the day I used a bit of heat to help loosen up the old rotors. Worked great, but be very careful and specific about what you're torching. 🔥 🔥
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