[top ramen]

Since I haven't seen any reviews or anybody installed these on the F10 I decide to do it. My previous e36 and e46 all had powerflex bushing and I really like how they transformed the handling.

I'm not going to show you my process of removing the thrust arm because it'll be to much babbling so it'll be easier to just follow this link:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/f...ounts/1M2roheo

The tools need to remove the thrust arms are a 24mm socket for the bolt on the knuckle and a e-20 torx socket or a universal 16mm socket for the screw that hold the thrust arm to the front subframe. Make sure you jack up the front of the car high enough to get a breaker bar under there because the screw holding the thrust arm into the subframe is on crazy tight. To remove the thrust arm bushings I paid a shop $25 to press them out. The powerflex bushing could be easily installed by hand with the help of a rubber mallet.

Have to say one of the best mod for $130. These thrust arm bushing really tighten up the front end a lot. Braking seems like it improved, more responsive and less delay. Turns inns at corner seems a lot more stable with less body roll. Before I want to do the M5 sway bars for the front but now I don't think I need them. And since I have the street version NVH seems as stock.

[Surly73]

Just yesterday I was looking at some Powerflex stuff - I'm thinking of using a Powerflex rear diff bushing.

I noticed that they have an "offset" version of the front upper strut bushing which would presumably give you an alignment adjustment there. Is yours the regular or offset?

Without going out and putting my car up and looking, I'm having trouble visualizing which alignment component an offset bushing would adjust in this location since I think this element locates the wheel front/rear (and play in this location causes toe to change during braking). Adjusting this prior to a proper alignment (resetting toe to the proper values) would change what? Castor?

[top ramen]

I'm still in debate if I want the powerflex diff bushing too. Some people on e90's say they cause diff whine.

No I got the regular offset ones. I think the offset ones are too much work to adjust because you have to take take off all the under panels to access that one bolt for adjustment. Also its hard to find someone knowledgeable to adjust them correctly. With these regular street version one I could just swap them in and don't need to get an alignment. With the offset ones you need an alignment because you're messing with the front castor.

[Surly73]

Originally Posted by top ramen

I'm still in debate if I want the powerflex diff bushing too. Some people on e90's say they cause diff whine.

No I got the regular offset ones. I think the offset ones are too much work to adjust because you have to take take off all the under panels to access that one bolt for adjustment. Also its hard to find someone knowledgeable to adjust them correctly. With these regular street version one I could just swap them in and don't need to get an alignment. With the offset ones you need an alignment because you're messing with the front castor.

OK thanks for the feedback. So it is a castor adjustment in the end? That's something I was looking to confirm.

In my mind, being able to adjust castor might really bring the platform alive instead of the relatively feedback free steering I presently "enjoy" in my X-Drive. OTOH if you get too many crazy things going on finding a knowledgeable alignment etc... shop that can put all the details together becomes more of a hassle.

[BrandBMW]

Originally Posted by top ramen

I'm still in debate if I want the powerflex diff bushing too. Some people on e90's say they cause diff whine.

No I got the regular offset ones. I think the offset ones are too much work to adjust because you have to take take off all the under panels to access that one bolt for adjustment. Also its hard to find someone knowledgeable to adjust them correctly. With these regular street version one I could just swap them in and don't need to get an alignment. With the offset ones you need an alignment because you're messing with the front castor.

The poly diff bushings don't cause whine, they can transmit whine that is already there. One method to do if you want some benefit, but reduce the noise transmission is to only do the main rear diff bushing in poly that always breaks. Not sure if those e90 owners you are referring to are changing all of their diff bushings to poly. I did my diff bushing and guibo this past spring and I went against doing poly. If the bushing breaks again with the increased power upgrades, I at least have the diff bushing tool to make it easier & FCPs warranty.

I've had these (no-offset) bushings ready to go since I bought them on Black Friday last year, but wanted to get the rest of the control arms done too because of mileage. I mean, why change the bushings if the ball joints are worn and I am glad I waited because when I changed to Lemforder thrust arms last December, the original balljoints were loose (but not yet rattling). I went with Lemforder because I knew I was going to do poly, otherwise if I was going to stay with rubber bushings, I would have purchased the original BMW arms. Lemforder rubber quality is not as good as original BMW, but I have not had an issue with Lemforder ball joints.

The F10 Powerflex bushings are actually race versions, hence the black color. Powerflex now uses the race durometer for the F10 street. Using poly on a few of my vehicles' front control arms I do agree about the NVH shouldn't be much more because on bumps the thrust (tension) arm can actually rotate in the bushing instead of twisting a rubber bushing and absorbing energy. This has much more directness and the energy transfer goes up to the strut/spring where it should instead of backwards towards the body (that's the theory at least).

After seeing yours done, maybe I can find the excuse to finally instal mine now.

[Surly73]

Originally Posted by BrandBMW

Lemforder rubber quality is not as good as original BMW, but I have not had an issue with Lemforder ball joints.

In all of my previous experience, generally "original BMW" *IS* Lemforder.

The Lemforder parts I've ordered were always identical to what I removed, even down to the BMW logo casting which was generally ground off on the OES "Lemforder" part.

In my experience Lemforder has been the best of the OEMs (Meyle, Febi, TRW) and is my #1 choice when ordering replacement parts.

[BrandBMW]

Originally Posted by Surly73

In all of my previous experience, generally "original BMW" *IS* Lemforder.

The Lemforder parts I've ordered were always identical to what I removed, even down to the BMW logo casting which was generally ground off on the OES "Lemforder" part.

In my experience Lemforder has been the best of the OEMs (Meyle, Febi, TRW) and is my #1 choice when ordering replacement parts.

Edit: I apologize I didn't realize the youtube links would embed.

That's partially true. Lemforder is one manufacturing supplier. However Lemforder rubber quality has diminished. Nobody says that Lemforder replacement parts use the same rubber that is given to BMW, or that replacement parts are even made in the same plant. I personally installed Lemforder front thrust arms and can personally give feedback that it does not feel as sturdy as original BMW.

When it comes to the ball joints, I still see the same quality.

Just for reference:

- installed brand new Lemforder in an F10 BMW 5-series

- GREAT comparison between an X5 (e70) original arm at 80k miles (gray) and new uninstalled Lemforder (black)

- Knocking/looseness with a W203 Mercedes (might need to raise the volume), it's the bushing, not the balljoint

- Volvo S60

https://www.impactbumpers.com/forum/...ky-drop-links/ - Porsche owners also talking about Lemforder rubber quality

[Surly73]

Originally Posted by BrandBMW

Edit: I apologize I didn't realize the youtube links would embed.

That's partially true. Lemforder is one manufacturing supplier. However Lemforder rubber quality has diminished.

Well nuts. I guess things are changing / have changed. In my E39 wrenching days I could tell no difference. Anything I've ever used from Lemforder has not been floppy and weak like some of that stuff clearly is.

Counterfeit Lemforder? Who knows where people are getting things that say "Lemforder". For that matter, anything Lemforder of mine would never have shown up BLACK like the X5 video. It has all been indistinguishable from factory, except the BMW logos were kissed with a grinder or file.

I'm really getting frustrated at the amount of counterfeit stuff out there.

[BrandBMW]

Originally Posted by Surly73

Well nuts. I guess things are changing / have changed. In my E39 wrenching days I could tell no difference. Anything I've ever used from Lemforder has not been floppy and weak like some of that stuff clearly is.

Counterfeit Lemforder? Who knows where people are getting things that say "Lemforder". For that matter, anything Lemforder of mine would never have shown up BLACK like the X5 video. It has all been indistinguishable from factory, except the BMW logos were kissed with a grinder or file.

I'm really getting frustrated at the amount of counterfeit stuff out there.

Me too in my e39/e34 days, they were great. I bought my F10 thrust arms from FCP, so not counterfeit. If you also remember, Steel arms can be a replacement for aluminum arms, so I don't believe the e70 are counterfeits.

It's just unfortunate about the Lemforder rubber. That's why using polyurethane, like in this thread are a great option. That's why I haven't done my polys yet because the original BMW lower control arms for the front of the F10 are not cheap, but I do plan on saving some money using Lemforder ball joints.