[Jalumi69]

Hello,

I have 2012 528i, I want to replace my battery - My battery is original BMW 105Ah AGM, I have found a Duralast battery from AutoZone which doesn't show its 105Ah, but says H8-AGM. My question is - Will this battery be OK for my car? Do I need to register it to work efficiently?

Thank you in advance.

Product Details
Part Number: H8-AGM
Weight: 60.76lbs
Warranty: 3 years
Notes: OE Exact Fit
*** 900 cold cranking amps (1000 cranking amps) ***. 170 reserve minutes. Warranty consists of 3 years free replacement. Battery is vented to outside of vehicle. OE manufacturer used various size batteries in production. Carefully size to fit. Vehicle computer system must be reset, contact your service specialist. AGM Valve Regulated Lead Acid (VRLA) is required. See the vehicle owners manual for safe and proper battery installation. Check the customer's vehicle, battery installation could take up to 30 minutes. See owners manual for battery location.
Battery Group Size Designation: 49
Reserve Capacity: 160
Battery Voltage: 12
Cold Cranking Amps (CCA): 900
Positive Terminal Side: Top Right

[Qsilver7]

Probably will work if you don't have any large electrical additions (like massive subwoofer etc.).

And YES...if you change the battery's specs from the original...not only will you need to REGISTER the new battery...you will also need to CODE the new battery to accommodate the different specs....so that your charging system will take to the changes to the new operating parameters. If all you do is replace the new battery with a battery with same specs...then all you need to do is register.

The 105 AH battery is usually a H9/95R battery class size. You can find those at most of the same locations...like Battery Plus, Sam's Club, AutoZone, Advanced Auto, Walmart, O'Reilly's, Pep Boys, etc.

Just about all of the batteries (even from different brands/manufacturers) will have specs that are pretty close in regards to battery class size (H8/49 or H9/95R) as in the chart below. If one spec is less or greater (for one brand) the other brand may be greater or less...or again...very similar.

[Jalumi69]

Thanks Qsilver7 that is so helpful

[Qsilver7]

[Jalumi69]

I really appreciate for the informative response - I returned the battery from AutoZone as I did not install it yet, and went and got one from BMW 105Ah (The difference was just a few dollars in price (less than $15)) I did register it using Ista+.

[Sylverlee]

Originally Posted by Jalumi69

I really appreciate for the informative response - I returned the battery from AutoZone as I did not install it yet, and went and got one from BMW 105Ah (The difference was just a few dollars in price (less than $15)) I did register it using Ista+.

Do you have a part number for the 105AH? I'm looking for one that would fit a 2013 535i. Does it need the extra bracket?

[ezaircon4jc]

Originally Posted by Sylverlee

Do you have a part number for the 105AH? I'm looking for one that would fit a 2013 535i. Does it need the extra bracket?

Doubt it. My dealer upgraded the battery in our 2012 to the 105Ah and didn't charge me for a new bracket.

As for the part number, try newtis.info

[808_F10]

What made you decide to replace your battery? I have had the feeling to do so lately because everything flickers during startup. Battery, as far as I know, is original.

[Surly73]

Originally Posted by Sylverlee

Do you have a part number for the 105AH? I'm looking for one that would fit a 2013 535i. Does it need the extra bracket?

I read somewhere that a different bracket was required, but found it was already present in my 2011 535xi. Flip up the covers to the battery compartment, use a flashlight, and you'll see the part number. Compare.

All battery replacements should be registered. If you change capacity or chemistry (flooded vs. AGM) you need to CODE as well as register. ISTA+ includes "retrofit" functions that code+register behind the scenes.

[Sylverlee]

Originally Posted by Surly73

I read somewhere that a different bracket was required, but found it was already present in my 2011 535xi. Flip up the covers to the battery compartment, use a flashlight, and you'll see the part number. Compare.

All battery replacements should be registered. If you change capacity or chemistry (flooded vs. AGM) you need to CODE as well as register. ISTA+ includes "retrofit" functions that code+register behind the scenes.

Thanks yeah saw ISTA+ functions online, but the install looks really challenging for some reason. Might just code to the 92AH even though I have a 95AH.

[Jalumi69]

Originally Posted by Sylverlee

Do you have a part number for the 105AH? I'm looking for one that would fit a 2013 535i. Does it need the extra bracket?

I just went to the dealer and they asked me for my info and brought me the battery - It fit perfectly without adding another bracket as it was the same as the one that came out

[Jalumi69]

Originally Posted by Sylverlee

Thanks yeah saw ISTA+ functions online, but the install looks really challenging for some reason. Might just code to the 92AH even though I have a 95AH.

ISTA+ is easy to install, but there is a self install ISTA+ which does everything - you can get it from ebay

[Sylverlee]

Originally Posted by Jalumi69

I just went to the dealer and they asked me for my info and brought me the battery - It fit perfectly without adding another bracket as it was the same as the one that came out

nice, I got mine. Fits perfectly.

[Jalumi69]

Originally Posted by Sylverlee

nice, I got mine. Fits perfectly.

[Sylverlee]

Instructions on how to code it on bimmercode for those that want to give it a try "connect with BimmerCode, select the “Car Access System” and then switch to expert mode. Select group 3702 and then VCM_BATTERY_CLASS. Choose your battery type and then code the unit"

[ezaircon4jc]

Originally Posted by Jalumi69

ISTA+ is easy to install, but there is a self install ISTA+ which does everything - you can get it from ebay

Easy for the programmer. I think I got it installed but can't for the life of me figure out how to make it work.

[CleoBos]

Hi Folks,
I have a 2011 535i XDrive with 80K miles on it. For the last few weeks, I was experiencing some cranking when I start the car on a cold morning. I took it to a dealer and he reported the CCA is dow to 350 from 900. The battery was never replaced since I purchased the car and it never troubled before.

So, I got a H8 battery from Costco and took it to a local mechanic, on Costco's salesperson recommendation, who charged me $25 to install. I asked him if he registered and he said yes. I am wondering how can I confirm that he actually registered the battery the right way. Its the 1st time I went to this mechanic and I have no idea how his work is.

[spielnicht]

The only sure way is to check with ISTA+ the mileage of when the last registration took place. 3rd party apps like Bimmerlink can also be used to register new batteries, so I would assume they can also show you the mileage at the last registration. Latter option is easier to use, but costs $$.

Originally Posted by CleoBos

Hi Folks,
I have a 2011 535i XDrive with 80K miles on it. For the last few weeks, I was experiencing some cranking when I start the car on a cold morning. I took it to a dealer and he reported the CCA is dow to 350 from 900. The battery was never replaced since I purchased the car and it never troubled before.

So, I got a H8 battery from Costco and took it to a local mechanic, on Costco's salesperson recommendation, who charged me $25 to install. I asked him if he registered and he said yes. I am wondering how can I confirm that he actually registered the battery the right way. Its the 1st time I went to this mechanic and I have no idea how his work is.

[CleoBos]

Originally Posted by spielnicht

The only sure way is to check with ISTA+ the mileage of when the last registration took place. 3rd party apps like Bimmerlink can also be used to register new batteries, so I would assume they can also show you the mileage at the last registration. Latter option is easier to use, but costs $$.

Thank you!

[Qsilver7]

Just an FYI because a lot of people read these forums and read about battery coding and battery registration...then they begin to conflate these two things as if they are one and the same....they are NOT.

Battery registration is required anytime you replace the battery so that the charging system can “reset” to a new baseline...and this will keep the new battery charged appropriately (as the new battery) and not as the old battery.

Battery coding is for setting the amp hour (AH) rating of the battery. If you have a 90 or a 92 AH battery and you change to a 105 AH battery...then the battery needs to be “coded”. Or if you change from a “wet cell” flooded battery to an AGM battery...then the battery needs to be “coded”.

Again, do NOT conflate or interchange these two procedures. If you had a 90 AH battery and upgraded to a new 105 AH battery...then you need to CODE as well as REGISTER the new battery. If you had a 90 AH battery and installed a 92 AH battery...then all you would need to do is REGISTER the battery (because the difference between 90 AH - 92 AH is not that great).

Hope this clears up some misconceptions. And for the record...as of now...BIMMERCODE can only CODE a new battery...their sister app (BIMMERLINK) has the ability to REGISTER a new battery. So if you purchased a new battery and you used Bimmercode...you can only
CODE...you would need to purchase their sister app (BIMMERLINK) to register the new battery.

[jlc45]

Hey Surly73, bro your pm box is full!

[Surly73]

Originally Posted by jlc45

Hey Surly73, bro your pm box is full!

If only the forum software spend as much effort warning me of that as it did ratting me out to others Should be room now