[burro_blasta]

Originally Posted by Sylverlee

damn good idea. I had it on race ramps, maybe that's why I had such a pita to fit the bar in.

I'm thinking so, bc I also wasn't even close to having to unhook the mufflers or anything like that to access everything I needed

[BimmerHausPerformance]

yea, end links don't need to be under load when tightened, jack that thing up! and just go tight, no torque to spec needed but 20 ft lbs seems a little light to me.

[malahhaor]

Originally Posted by ChiNorm

In my experience, the Eibach bars are so stiff that independent suspension action is comprised. A pot hole on the left front would shake both sides of the car on Chicago's bad winter roads. The M5 bars were better, but still too stiff. I am now running KW V3s with the stock bars and the car is wonderful.

Good luck.

Hi ChiNoem,
Im in Chocago area as well. I looked on KW site and they dont have a system for 535, just one that comes with hydraulic lift. I also not want to lower the car.

How bad was the M5/650 sway bar upgrade? my car is DD and mostly driven by my wife, i dont care to make it perfect track car, just a little less of a boat around the corners.
Any info would greatly help

[ChiNorm]

"How bad was the M5/650 sway bar upgrade? my car is DD and mostly driven by my wife, i dont care to make it perfect track car, just a little less of a boat around the corners."

I thought it was still way too hard for Chicago's crappy pavement, hence my purchase of the V3 system. I doubt your wife will like the M5 option. Consider upgrading the shocks instead.

With the V3 setup, my car corners like a skate board. No roll whatsoever and the ride is actually softer than the oem setup.

Good luck.

[5soko]

Originally Posted by burro_blasta

Put my Eibachs on over the weekend. Easy access to everything (as expected) and was easy to snake the bars in/out of place without having to move anything else (bit of a pleasant surprise, at least for the rear bar).

The only surprise is I nearly lost an hour - an hour filled with annoyance and anxiety - dealing with the rear bar's bushing brackets. The brackets really didn't want to fit around the bushings, so bad that I thought they gave me the wrong bushings as first. I had all sorts of clamps trying to get the bushing seated deep enough into the bracket and then also pinching the bracket together sideways because the bracket bolt holes were lining up a good 1/2" or so too wide. A long process of clamping and alternating the tightening of the front/back bolts until I finally got it lined up and in there. Scary because it was a situation ripe for cross threading but luckily all's well that ends well. Doing it again, I would try clamping them bushings in there both direction and letting the clamps settle in for some time before going to mount the bar. The front bar brackets are heavier duty and I was able to get the bushings into the mounts by hand and the holes lined right up also because, unlike the rear, the heavier duty brackets didn't flex to stretch for the bushings at all.

After all the torque spec back and forth I realized the point others made that it's heavy duty hardware and you just need to give it hell and do the ol "guttentight."

Are you rwd? I think jacked ip is the way to go!

Do you use any lube for the rear bushings?
Bmw sells a specific lube for the install of those bushings into the bracket

[burro_blasta]

Originally Posted by 5soko

Are you rwd? I think jacked ip is the way to go!

Do you use any lube for the rear bushings?
Bmw sells a specific lube for the install of those bushings into the bracket

I'm awd. I liberally applied the lube they included with the set