[AnotherM]

I just wanted to take a minute and point something out to my fellow n63 brothers/sisters.
Crank case pressure makes a massive difference in how our engines operate

If you open your oil cap and you hear a suction, it means that you Crank Case is under abnormal Vaccum. If you have symptoms like slightly un smooth shifting, reduced throttle response, or minor rough idle than you could be experiencing too much crank case pressure. Or excessive vaccum pressure.

I felt all of these symptoms and they were all very minor, but I could notice them. The N63 is designed to have between -.8 and -.10 vaccum. This amount with provide smooth idle, smooth shifts, and will NOT cause a suction on the fill cap.

If you have any of those symptoms, open your fill cap and see if you hear a suction. If you do, here is how you fix it.

Buy OEM CCV hoses for each bank, remove the rappy plastic hose in the middle, and install them with new 3/4" heater hoses from an auto store. You will notice immediately that the car operates smoother in everyway.

[My135i]

That looks really good! Did you remove the CCV completely off and cut it? Or did while it's on?

[AnotherM]

I pulled them off the car to do it. The plastic tube has t ok be carefully cut off and i didnt want any pieces dropping in the heads.

I actually ordered steal braided lines and 10na fittings so i can re do these as well as the lower hoses. May be over kill, but it will look nice and last forever, plus its fun

[AnotherM]

Update: i took apart the old parts for each bank and they are essentially two check valves which only allow air one way. My old ones were both actually leaking on the lower connection. This was causing a vaccum leak on both banks.

I strongly reccomend everyone with an n63 that utilizes these stock check valves to stwitch them out maybe once a year. If you havent and you do, you will be amazed how much smoother the car can be. Vacuum is a huge part of how these engines run.

[550bye]

Originally Posted by F10c550i

Update: i took apart the old parts for each bank and they are essentially two check valves which only allow air one way. My old ones were both actually leaking on the lower connection. This was causing a vaccum leak on both banks.

I strongly reccomend everyone with an n63 that utilizes these stock check valves to stwitch them out maybe once a year. If you havent and you do, you will be amazed how much smoother the car can be. Vacuum is a huge part of how these engines run.

Have you figured out the AN10 fittings, I have air escaping them on my catch can setup, I have everything to make it happen but need to figure out the connector fittings and how to stop the pressure leak.

I am also going to replace my turbo coolant lines again but with the braided lines and AN10 fittings.

[jfandl]

Originally Posted by AnotherM

Update: i took apart the old parts for each bank and they are essentially two check valves which only allow air one way. My old ones were both actually leaking on the lower connection. This was causing a vaccum leak on both banks.

I strongly reccomend everyone with an n63 that utilizes these stock check valves to stwitch them out maybe once a year. If you havent and you do, you will be amazed how much smoother the car can be. Vacuum is a huge part of how these engines run.

Are these check valves available separate that you can afford to replace them once a year? The complete PCV setup for my X5 is $330. so annual replacement, just because, is not cost effective.

[550bye]

Originally Posted by jfandl

Are these check valves available separate that you can afford to replace them once a year? The complete PCV setup for my X5 is $330. so annual replacement, just because, is not cost effective.

The CCV Breather hoses are relatively cheap, Rein are $45 each (which I've used with no problem) and the Genuine BMW hoses are $87 each. If you buy those through FCP and they break down the road you can warranty them. I actually have 2 spare sets, one spare and one accidental purchase.

Assuming you're speaking about an N63, they shouldn't cost you over $300 unless you speaking about a different part like the entire PCV kit but still should only equal $300 in total.

As for the check valves, I don't see how you could just replace them because it's all one molded piece. I tried to show it best I can in the photos, I just don't see any way to replace them but I do recommend replacing the CCV's often on the N63 because I had 2 go bad on me over the years.

[_Olek_]

Hi guys,
did you try to open your oil cap after replacing the pcv hoses?
I just replaced mine and the vacuum is still present. Isn't it normal?

[slobo7x]

I'd like to know how you eliminated the PCV hose that goes between left and right bank of the engine..? It sits on top of all that exhaust shielding towards the front.

Mine has a tube in between, is this what you were saying to cut off and remove?

[_Olek_]

Originally Posted by 550bye

Have you figured out the AN10 fittings, I have air escaping them on my catch can setup, I have everything to make it happen but need to figure out the connector fittings and how to stop the pressure leak.

I am also going to replace my turbo coolant lines again but with the braided lines and AN10 fittings.

Did you buy the kit or figure it out yourself? I was trying to find one but couldn't.

[bigbody750]

Originally Posted by AnotherM

I just wanted to take a minute and point something out to my fellow n63 brothers/sisters.
Crank case pressure makes a massive difference in how our engines operate

If you open your oil cap and you hear a suction, it means that you Crank Case is under abnormal Vaccum. If you have symptoms like slightly un smooth shifting, reduced throttle response, or minor rough idle than you could be experiencing too much crank case pressure. Or excessive vaccum pressure.

I felt all of these symptoms and they were all very minor, but I could notice them. The N63 is designed to have between -.8 and -.10 vaccum. This amount with provide smooth idle, smooth shifts, and will NOT cause a suction on the fill cap.

If you have any of those symptoms, open your fill cap and see if you hear a suction. If you do, here is how you fix it.

Buy OEM CCV hoses for each bank, remove the rappy plastic hose in the middle, and install them with new 3/4" heater hoses from an auto store. You will notice immediately that the car operates smoother in everyway.

!!!!!! I need a video on how you did this big bro! That’s awesome. And the turbo coolant lines.

[Supahone]

How did you replace the tube splits from the valve tubes that goes down towards the crankcase? Is there a special tool?