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2010 2011 BMW 5 Series Forum F10 F10 Technical Topics DIY Guides & Discussions Preventative maintenance items at 90-100K miles
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      11-06-2019, 04:41 PM   #1
sesh1957
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Preventative maintenance items at 90-100K miles

Here is a list of things to do yourself if for have a BMW 535i F10 or similar model in the 90-100K mileage range. I bought mine at 60K, now at 100K, planning to get another 100K out of her. Could be very cost effective to buy one at 90K or so, as the average price reflects getting this done for thousands more.

Intake manifold seals
Starter
Oil Filter Housing Gaskets
intake valve clean
Starter
Parts around $350, 4 hours labor?

Water pump,
Coolant change,
Thermostat,
Drive belt,
Idler and tension pulleys, tensioner pin,
Parts around $575, 5 hours labor

Valve cover,
Spark plugs, thin socket
Air Tube assembly
Tube seal
Parts around $600, 6 hours labor

Front Shock bellows
Outer drive shaft Boots, clamp pliers
Parts around $100, 5 hours labor

Transmission fluid change
Transmission Pan
Rear differential fluid
Part around $300, 3 hours labor

Power Stop (drilled/slotted) or OE (stock) Kit
Pads, Disc, hardware, sensor
Brake fluid flush
Caliper Paint (optional)
Part around $520, 4 hours labor


Best place for parts is https://www.FCPeuro.com for BMW and OE manufacturer parts, parts above based on OE parts (manufacturer for BMW parts). Most parts at FCP include hardware needed to be replaced. Great site for maintenance manuals is https://www.newtis.info/ and part diagrams by Vin # check www.realoem dot com. With these three site you can do almost anything on your car. Check FCPeuro for DIY videos, there are some short cuts on labor verses BMW shop procedures.
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      11-06-2019, 04:55 PM   #2
jonobro
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sesh1957 View Post
Here is a list of things to do yourself if for have a BMW 535i F10 or similar model in the 90-100K mileage range. I bought mine at 60K, now at 100K, planning to get another 100K out of her. Could be very cost effective to buy one at 90K or so, as the average price reflects getting this done for thousands more.

Intake manifold seals
Starter
Oil Filter Housing Gaskets
intake valve clean
Starter
Parts around $350, 4 hours labor?

Water pump,
Coolant change,
Thermostat,
Drive belt,
Idler and tension pulleys, tensioner pin,
Parts around $575, 5 hours labor

Valve cover,
Spark plugs, thin socket
Air Tube assembly
Tube seal
Parts around $600, 6 hours labor

Front Shock bellows
Outer drive shaft Boots, clamp pliers
Parts around $100, 5 hours labor

Transmission fluid change
Transmission Pan
Rear differential fluid
Part around $300, 3 hours labor

Power Stop (drilled/slotted) or OE (stock) Kit
Pads, Disc, hardware, sensor
Brake fluid flush
Caliper Paint (optional)
Part around $520, 4 hours labor


Best place for parts is https://www.FCPeuro.com for BMW and OE manufacturer parts, parts above based on OE parts (manufacturer for BMW parts). Most parts at FCP include hardware needed to be replaced. Great site for maintenance manuals is https://www.newtis.info/ and part diagrams by Vin # check www.realoem dot com. With these three site you can do almost anything on your car. Check FCPeuro for DIY videos, there are some short cuts on labor verses BMW shop procedures.
How would you know that the starter went bad? I know the obvious answer that the car won't start but how would you know for sure ? I think mines gone bad and my first thing that comes to mind is my starter since everything else works fine that I think anyway
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      11-06-2019, 06:47 PM   #3
sesh1957
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These are preventative, or things to do if you have it apart in the group. I have the starter group left to do, at 103K and the auto starts, I want to do it, don't want to tow it if it fail away from home.
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      11-07-2019, 08:59 AM   #4
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Isn't the coolant system flush (coolant change in your post) a time based item, and not a mileage based maintenance item?
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      11-07-2019, 04:39 PM   #5
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Yes, coolant and brake fluid should be done at the correct intervals, For brakes, when you push your calibers back all the way, you can get the most effective flush, and coolant since you drained the system anyway. Just reset the interval. These are group things to do, just makes sense to do things while they are accessible.

If you need to do any of these again, FPCEuro credits the cost on return of the old.
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      11-08-2019, 08:06 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sesh1957 View Post
Yes, coolant and brake fluid should be done at the correct intervals, For brakes, when you push your calibers back all the way, you can get the most effective flush, and coolant since you drained the system anyway. Just reset the interval. These are group things to do, just makes sense to do things while they are accessible.

If you need to do any of these again, FPCEuro credits the cost on return of the old.
Yup, any wear and tear item should always be bought at FCPEuro. You're pretty much only paying for return shipping and nothing else. My friend has sent back used engine oil multiple times without issues, it's kind of nuts.
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      11-10-2019, 02:14 PM   #7
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I don,t do the oil, they are great and I would feel guilty, but all the high cost items I will. I think redoing a 100K car this way is very cost effective, never pay twice for a part. Wish I went with the stock brakes, Powerstop are great brakes, but I my second set won't be free.
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      01-11-2020, 12:59 PM   #8
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In regards to the valve cleaning. Did you use a spray product like CRC GDI IVD?
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      01-16-2020, 03:43 PM   #9
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I haven't done the intake/starter yet. I believe the N55 fixed the valve coking issue the N54 had with the better PVC system. But will walnut blast if it is needed. Have you heard the CRC works?
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      01-18-2020, 06:34 PM   #10
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Nice write up! Mine is at 108k and I have to replace the oil pan. Not sure if the oil pan is bad or the gasket is bad but there was about 1qt of oil on the floor today sadly and based on the research (2 TY vids) it’s a real pain in the butt to get that puppy out! I’m new here and waiting to be allowed to post, I’m hoping someone can give me a little help with that.
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      01-22-2020, 11:00 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Paul.004 View Post
Nice write up! Mine is at 108k and I have to replace the oil pan. Not sure if the oil pan is bad or the gasket is bad but there was about 1qt of oil on the floor today sadly and based on the research (2 TY vids) it’s a real pain in the butt to get that puppy out! I’m new here and waiting to be allowed to post, I’m hoping someone can give me a little help with that.
I’d check the oil filter housing gasket first.
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      01-22-2020, 11:02 AM   #12
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Starters are known to go on these cars. Same starter used in e90 and other models. Pretty straight forward to do. I did mine a few months ago. Good thing for me it died in the driveway. So no need for a tow.
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      01-22-2020, 01:11 PM   #13
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I had my front axles replaced recently which apparently are pretty common item on these cars, and I have around 55,000 miles on the odometer
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