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2010 2011 BMW 5 Series Forum F10 F10 Technical Topics DIY Guides & Discussions H&R Spring Install Pics and tips
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      07-12-2018, 06:35 PM   #67
etnsandman
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Trying again tomorrow. I plan to wedge the suspension while the wheel is still on since the suspension pops up once the shock is removed. I plan to remove the caliper and the rear most lower suspension arm. This should finally allow me to finally free the shock and get the springs changed.

I kind of like the slight rake the car has at the moment with the front lowered. But getting the rear lowered will be great, that fender gap is crazy.
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      07-14-2018, 12:09 AM   #68
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Remain tenacious brother. Attention to detail is everything. I'm looking forward to your completion.
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      08-01-2018, 06:58 AM   #69
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Finally done. The wedge theory failed. But I found a way to fit a bottle jack in and it was smooth sailing from there. Ride feels good and traction is waY better.
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Last edited by etnsandman; 12-06-2018 at 07:00 PM..
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      08-03-2018, 03:37 PM   #70
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Outstanding! Looks great!
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      08-06-2018, 12:10 PM   #71
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alextremo View Post
Just an update to this for those with EDC and IAS...

I used this write up to install my ACS springs this weekend on jackstands by myself in my garage and it was great (thanks to @hamanncheese for the write up and @ImSW1 for the tips!) A couple of differences that I noticed:

1) I did not need to remove the other suspension bits in the rear to get the strut out as shown above, I just removed the wheel well liner and it came out easily.

2) The speaker covers on the back deck just pop out using a trim removal tool - start with the front and then push up to remove.

3) I picked up a bendy wrench from HF for $10 and it made removing the strut tower bolts under the speaker a piece of cake.

4) I did need to remove the tension strut in the front to get the strut out - the extra electronics and valves on the strut body won't allow it to come out as mentioned above. To remove this I used a 24mm box end wrench and a T47 driver.

5) There is a plug leading from the strut to to a plastic housing for the electronics that you have to remove. The housing has tabs on top that you can pop open with your fingertips, the plug has a lock on the black end that you push to release and it pops right out.

6) If I had to do it again, I would probably pay a garage with a hydraulic spring compressor to swap the springs once I got them out. That was the worst part of the job, especially on the front springs...
great info!
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      09-30-2018, 07:34 AM   #72
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What size drop did you go with?
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      01-24-2020, 12:59 AM   #73
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M5Beast_NYC View Post
Anybody has done a diy for the Xdrive? I just attempted this and got stuck(literally) on getting the front suspension out. The lower shock design is different from the OP as the xdrive has the axle in the front. I could not get it over the lower control arm as well as the axle. What else do you have to remove for the xdrive version? Thanks!!
The vehicle in the video appears to be an x-Drive.

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      04-29-2020, 10:07 AM   #74
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vinfast View Post
Depends on where you go --- my install was a bargain!!
Hi I see you live in Ga., I'm in SC. I'm wanting to lower mine. can you tell me where you went, please?
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      05-17-2020, 07:18 PM   #75
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What did you guys do to get the rear lower shock bolt loose? I couldn't break it loose. No corrosion or rust on my car at all so its not that
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      05-17-2020, 09:55 PM   #76
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Big breaker bar.
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      05-18-2020, 09:10 AM   #77
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Must be bigger than mine... smh
The angle to get to the bolt is killling me
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      05-18-2020, 03:25 PM   #78
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I ran a couple wobble extensions to put the ratchet more towards the middle of the car and then slid the jack handle over it with the car jacked up as high as I could get it. It popped loose with some persuasion.
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