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2010 2011 BMW 5 Series Forum F10 BMW 5-Series (F10) Forums General 5-Series Sedan and Wagon (F10 / F11) Forum Another F10 n55 Blown Motor
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      06-26-2020, 06:43 AM   #1
Trainwreck914
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Another F10 n55 Blown Motor

https://newyork.craigslist.org/que/c...147212936.html

I'm seeing these more and more...
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      06-26-2020, 08:14 AM   #2
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And yet again it is a 2011....
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      06-26-2020, 12:54 PM   #3
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That car was BEAT ON!!! It needs more than a new engine!
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      06-26-2020, 02:21 PM   #4
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That car was BEAT ON!!! It needs more than a new engine!
Yea that car looks like it was barely maintained at all. Look at that rear bumper. Yeesh.

Engine blew probably because the owner just didn't take care of it
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      06-26-2020, 03:06 PM   #5
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Pretty rare wood trim, no?
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      06-26-2020, 03:48 PM   #6
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I've taken care of mine. 08/11 build. Have done WOT pulls once in awhile. Still running strong at 102k. Original engine oil changes done every 3-5k. Thing is its the internet you will always see the negatives of any cars. No one ever comes online to talk good.about there car. Yet I see tons of 5 series 550i and 535i running around quiet as can be. When they get beat and not maintained you will get a blown engine specially when start pushing more power you get more problems.
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      06-26-2020, 04:34 PM   #7
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You got guys who have taken care of their cars. But then they go get the ofhg service and the mechanic fails to prime. Then boom. So not necessarily that someone beat it up or neglected
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      06-26-2020, 07:35 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Trainwreck914 View Post
You got guys who have taken care of their cars. But then they go get the ofhg service and the mechanic fails to prime. Then boom. So not necessarily that someone beat it up or neglected
Not sure. I've done the job twice once on mine and lsturbointegs both had no issues. Someone on forum stated it was the n55 with the different oil cooler causing the issue more. When I got my car it was so caked in oil from the ofhg leak. Records had good maintenance other then oil leak. Seems it was half assed I took the risk and she still runs strong.
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      06-26-2020, 07:38 PM   #9
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Yeah so who knows for sure why the blow. It's usually a thrown rod when they do. Atleast from what I've been seeing. Couple others I've seen with rod knock
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      06-26-2020, 08:10 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BurrNinja View Post
Not sure. I've done the job twice once on mine and lsturbointegs both had no issues. Someone on forum stated it was the n55 with the different oil cooler causing the issue more. When I got my car it was so caked in oil from the ofhg leak. Records had good maintenance other then oil leak. Seems it was half assed I took the risk and she still runs strong.
Yes... I think the issue only(?) crops up with N55's with the oil cooler behind the bumper cover.
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      06-26-2020, 08:13 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ezaircon4jc View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by BurrNinja View Post
Not sure. I've done the job twice once on mine and lsturbointegs both had no issues. Someone on forum stated it was the n55 with the different oil cooler causing the issue more. When I got my car it was so caked in oil from the ofhg leak. Records had good maintenance other then oil leak. Seems it was half assed I took the risk and she still runs strong.
Yes... I think the issue only(?) crops up with N55's with the oil cooler behind the bumper cover.
Its confusing cause I have the cooler behind the bumper passenger side. Thats the oil cooler right?
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      06-26-2020, 08:24 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BurrNinja View Post
Its confusing cause I have the cooler behind the bumper passenger side. Thats the oil cooler right?
I know there is this kind:



And this:



I think it is the second that is the issue...
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      06-26-2020, 08:44 PM   #13
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I have the top one so does lsturbo. Also have oil cooler behind bumper. Maybe bottom one has the issue cause the method of oil cooling it uses. Seen a video there's a valve that opens and whatnot maybe it gets blocked or stuck closed?
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      06-26-2020, 08:52 PM   #14
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I have the bottom (second). Previous owner had done the ofhg. Had record of it. Car still running. Just hit 129k
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      06-26-2020, 09:49 PM   #15
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The top one (big rectangular block) is a coolant to oil heat exchanger. The bottom one (with 2 tubes coming out) circulates oil from the housing to an air-to-oil radiator. For those with the coolant to oil heat exchanger, you're mistaking the aux radiator (located on the passenger side wheel well) for an oil cooler. Those who have the actual oil cooler will have the oil cooler on the passenger ride wheel well, with the aux radiator relocated to the driver's side wheel well. Aux radiator just circulates coolant. I think people are getting issues with the oil cooler version because they're letting air into those lines, and then eventually that air circulates into the air passages. It's very important to prime the engine if you have the oil cooler.
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Last edited by Unspec; 06-26-2020 at 09:58 PM..
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      06-26-2020, 10:01 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ezaircon4jc View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by BurrNinja View Post
Its confusing cause I have the cooler behind the bumper passenger side. Thats the oil cooler right?
I know there is this kind:



And this:



I think it is the second that is the issue...
I have the second kind and actually just did my OFHG. I forgot to prime the oil but it's been fine so far at almost 800 miles later. I also changed oil, pulleys, tensioner and belt.
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      06-26-2020, 11:36 PM   #17
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Quote:
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And yet again it is a 2011....
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      06-27-2020, 05:49 AM   #18
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I have the second kind and actually just did my OFHG. I forgot to prime the oil but it's been fine so far at almost 800 miles later. I also changed oil, pulleys, tensioner and belt.[/QUOTE]




If that's the case then what's the theory behind the whole priming thing...is it even true? Or is this just a 2011 issue with a bad batch of connecting rods?
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      06-27-2020, 07:10 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Trainwreck914 View Post
I have the second kind and actually just did my OFHG. I forgot to prime the oil but it's been fine so far at almost 800 miles later. I also changed oil, pulleys, tensioner and belt.



If that's the case then what's the theory behind the whole priming thing...is it even true? Or is this just a 2011 issue with a bad batch of connecting rods?[/QUOTE]

I could just be lucky. It's easy enough to do so I would just include it in the job. I do have a 2012.
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      06-27-2020, 08:44 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Trainwreck914 View Post
If that's the case then what's the theory behind the whole priming thing...is it even true? Or is this just a 2011 issue with a bad batch of connecting rods?
I've read a number of accounts where an engine that's running fine gets the OFHG job and everything seems fine, but on the way home from the shop or on the next trip to the store it's toast. The failure is close (in miles) to the OFHG job so the job must be a contributing factor. It's not just the (seemingly) high instance of 2011 issues.

I have used oil from an oil change I just did last week, and one I did last summer ready to go to the lab to start watching for bearing material. I've done this on previous cars but keep forgetting/not bothering on the F10 for whatever reason. Now I'll start considering it necessary. Too bad I need international package mail to get the oil to the lab. The postage costs more than the analysis But, it I start having a problem, I should catch it soon enough to get a rod bearing job done instead of a replacement engine. That's the theory anyways.
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      06-27-2020, 09:55 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Surly73 View Post
I've read a number of accounts where an engine that's running fine gets the OFHG job and everything seems fine, but on the way home from the shop or on the next trip to the store it's toast. The failure is close (in miles) to the OFHG job so the job must be a contributing factor. It's not just the (seemingly) high instance of 2011 issues.

I have used oil from an oil change I just did last week, and one I did last summer ready to go to the lab to start watching for bearing material. I've done this on previous cars but keep forgetting/not bothering on the F10 for whatever reason. Now I'll start considering it necessary. Too bad I need international package mail to get the oil to the lab. The postage costs more than the analysis But, it I start having a problem, I should catch it soon enough to get a rod bearing job done instead of a replacement engine. That's the theory anyways.
I think by 100k miles if you had a bad batch of rod bearings they would have failed already. I see many 2011 535i's for sale over 150k miles. Regardless I think it is a very good idea to send off an oil sample. I can afford a $2,000 rod bearing job but I can not afford a 10k engine replacement.
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      06-28-2020, 04:19 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nickco43 View Post
I think by 100k miles if you had a bad batch of rod bearings they would have failed already. I see many 2011 535i's for sale over 150k miles. Regardless I think it is a very good idea to send off an oil sample. I can afford a $2,000 rod bearing job but I can not afford a 10k engine replacement.
Nothing says the bearings are at fault. Threads on the topic have mentioned that the short block part number itself was revised more quickly than normal in this time frame. It might be marginal oiling passages to the bearings or who knows what.

At any rate, OFHG jobs without priming seem to be a major contributing factor. I've seen some hints that external air/oil cooler engines are more vulnerable (which makes sense) but there isn't enough hard data on that. A lot of online accounts have a lot of "I don't know what I have" and not reporting back.
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