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2010 2011 BMW 5 Series Forum F10 F10 Technical Topics DIY Guides & Discussions Drain/replace coolant - how to drain?
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      12-22-2015, 10:06 AM   #1
Surly73
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Drain/replace coolant - how to drain?

2011 F10 535xi w/ N55

It's time (by age, not miles) to change the coolant in my F10. I've always wrenched this kind of things myself on all of my past cars, in particular BMWs of the E39, E46, E90 variety. I'm familiar with the electric water pump self-bleeding (way easier than the old way), heater settings etc...

I have less than 20k miles on the car, but it's 2011/04 production, and has loads of factory extended warranty left. The dealer reminded me in writing on a work order that it's time change the coolant and I don't want any excuses for warranty issues, but I don't feel like paying them to do it. At this low mileage I was just going to do a drain and replace through the rad and not go crazy with block drains (if the N55 even has any), pulling hoses, flushes etc... trying to get every last drop of old stuff out assuming I get the majority of it out that way.

I removed several plastic shields, and found what believe to the the drain plug partially obscured by a flexible air duct/cover that seems to be a real pain to remove. It's plastic with a T-50 Torx in it, in the bottom of the rad, with a warning not to remove because it's under pressure.

It's very lightly torqued and when I remove it I see just another white plastic plug. It looks like to remove it I'd need snap ring pliers. This gave me the gut feeling that there's another, easier way to do this, or maybe there's more to it than I'm aware of. I didn't just want to pull the snap ring and see what happens without a little more digging. Why isn't this a simple drain bolt with a seal? I don't think coolant recommended maintenance has changed from the "low maintenance" spec from E39/E46 days so why make it more challenging?

I've googled for F10 and F30 (hoping it's similar) DIYs and I've got nothing.

A little help? Why is this more complicated than it needs to be? I assume the usual nose elevated, heat on low fan max temp, fill to neck, activate electric water pump auto-bleed, top up, repeat process would work for refilling.

I was hoping to get this done on my vacation time prior to Christmas
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Last edited by Surly73; 12-22-2015 at 10:14 AM..
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      12-24-2015, 01:48 PM   #2
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No one has ever changed the coolant in an f10??
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      01-12-2016, 06:41 AM   #3
Surly73
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Bumping again - hopefully I can draw out someone who has done this.
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      01-22-2016, 08:58 PM   #4
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I'm with on this. I'm due to change my coolant on my F10 as well. If I figure anything out I will pass it along
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      01-23-2016, 01:54 PM   #5
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I would ask this same question or search on bimmerfest forums, it seems nobody knows anything here on the 5post about the f10. If it were me it would just remove the snap ring and drain the coolant and reinstall and replace coolant, the snap ring is prolly just a new design on something that worked fine before bmw had to change it. Good luck!
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      01-27-2016, 07:00 AM   #6
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I just pull the hose off
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      01-27-2016, 01:00 PM   #7
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Was the bleeding procedure the same as the E90?
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      01-27-2016, 01:38 PM   #8
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yes heat on high headlight on hold down gas paddle for 10 sec
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      01-27-2016, 03:25 PM   #9
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The official guidance is attached - albeit for a 530D and refilling shown using a special pressurised filling unit.
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File Type: pdf Draining coolant.pdf (309.7 KB, 6503 views)
File Type: pdf Refilling coolant.pdf (775.3 KB, 4638 views)
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      01-28-2016, 07:17 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tmarshall57 View Post
The official guidance is attached - albeit for a 530D and refilling shown using a special pressurised filling unit.
1/ surprised they've gone to a "hose pull" service model when they've always had a perfectly good rad drain screw.

2/ filling unit? Vacuum? Shop air? Measuring tape? Seriously? I'm hoping that the stupid filling unit is really only for leak detection (system holds vacuum) and isn't a crucial part of bleeding.

Is it safe to assume that others have just done it the "E90 way" - fill to mark, ignition on, heat cranked, fan min, hold accelerator, check level, repeat if necessary.
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      07-22-2016, 11:09 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Surly73 View Post
1/ surprised they've gone to a "hose pull" service model when they've always had a perfectly good rad drain screw.

2/ filling unit? Vacuum? Shop air? Measuring tape? Seriously? I'm hoping that the stupid filling unit is really only for leak detection (system holds vacuum) and isn't a crucial part of bleeding.

Is it safe to assume that others have just done it the "E90 way" - fill to mark, ignition on, heat cranked, fan min, hold accelerator, check level, repeat if necessary.
I haven't heard anyone else do this to the F10 535 yet. I'm really surprised there isn't a drain plug either. That drain procedure looks like it came from a BMW book so that might be what needs to be done for our models as well. I'm going to keep looking into this because I'm at 53K miles on my car and I need to swap out my coolant.
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      07-31-2016, 11:20 AM   #12
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Does anyone know if there is a drain plug on the engine block?
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      08-05-2016, 12:58 PM   #13
bin01123
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I'll take the plunge and try this out. (It may take me forever) From looking at the instructions provided, it looks pretty difficult to pull that hose from the radiator but I'll report back how I make out. If I do well enough, I'll post a DIY for this.
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      09-05-2016, 11:48 AM   #14
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So I tried to work on this this today. There are hoses to the oil filter housing and for the AC right in the way of the lower radiator hose. I'll probably have to pull more stuff off the car in order to get to the hose when I get more time. What a pain.

Has anyone completed this job and have any tips? I'm starting to wonder if I need to pull the intercooler out to get to it from underneath.
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      09-11-2016, 03:20 AM   #15
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I asked my BMW stealer if my 2010 535i needs coolant change yet , he said it doesn't 🤔. "The stuff they do the first full with is ... Strong"
As far as I know , glycol coolant should be changed every 2 years and the long life OAT pink stuff shoul be good for 5 years
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      09-11-2016, 03:30 AM   #16
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It seems that the official guidance pdf. Also suggests a "lifetime fill" .. The question is , what is a life time. Same story with transmission. BMW say life. ZF say 85000 miles
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      10-23-2016, 11:16 PM   #17
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I completed this job best I could over the weekend but we're going to need more information moving forward. I was able to remove the lower radiator hose to drain the coolant however I only got 5 liters out and the F10 535 holds 10 liters.

In order to remove the hose I needed to loosen the clamp and the torx screw pictured. (I believe it's a T6) After that I was able to remove the hose and drain the coolant.

I filled it back with BMW coolant and distilled water. 50/50 mix. I then used the coolant bleed procedure for the E90s. Again this method will only remove half of the coolant in the system but it's a start for now. If anyone else learns any new methods, please do share.
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      01-05-2017, 10:11 AM   #18
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I used your procedure on my F10 N55

Hi!
Thanks for your info above in this post. After my own searching, I came up with the same results you did (nothing is listed online on how do drain and refill!). I also contacted BAV Auto & FCP Euro and they both recommended the same procedure you did.
- Last night I did the drain and refill using your method. Accessed the hose on the passenger side of the radiator form the top, removed hose (tricky to get to), and drained about 5 liters, as much as would come out. I even jacked up the rear to try to get a little more out. Replaced hose, Refilled with the 50/50 mix of BMW coolant & distilled water, and did the bleed proceedure. Topped off. I would call this a success. Many cars, including my Lexus SUV don't drain the entire amount. They suggest multiple drain and refills in succession to achieve a full flush. I don't think that's nessisary as long as you follow a routine like every 2 years or 30K miles.
-on a side note: I have also reached out to ZF Transmissions and they said every 50K miles (or every 2-4 Years) on the ATF/Filter. The lifetime idea BMW has is 100K miles. ZF said if I waited for 100K miles on their fluid I would be rolling the dice.... I did mine at 50K miles. Was not difficult, just tricky doing it for the first time with no DIY step by step instructions. ZF's videos and PDF were helpful but not exact to our model.
Thanks again for your info on this thread, it would appear that not too many people out there are doing this maintenance at all or themselves.
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      01-05-2017, 11:59 AM   #19
bin01123
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@philipb glad I could help. That job was a PIA to figure out.
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      01-05-2017, 01:20 PM   #20
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I got a little more coolant out when I changed out the water pump and thermostat. BTW.. The hose that most of you are removing is where the thermostat is. Removal and installing the thermostat is a big PITA on the 535.

I probably got more out because of the drain from the water pump. For those who wants to drain more out, disconnecting the water pump inlet hose isn't too hard. You do have to remove the under carriage cover.

Just a word of caution as I've learned while working on these BMW. Get yourself a battery charger. If your battery is low, you may not be able to do the coolant bleed procedure.

No doubt that there aren't too many DIYer on here. If anyone has questions on DIY, feel free to PM me.

So far, I've done the following.

1. Oil filter housing
2. Spark plugs
3. Fuel Injectors
4. Water pump and thermostat

Next on my list is the serpentine belt and brake pads. I just got all the parts.. Will wait for a free weekend.
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      01-05-2017, 03:24 PM   #21
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Hi vlam- great to know! Thanks
How often do you recommend fuel injectors and plug? What's the difficulty level?
Thanks
Phil
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      01-05-2017, 06:27 PM   #22
bin01123
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vlam View Post
I got a little more coolant out when I changed out the water pump and thermostat. BTW.. The hose that most of you are removing is where the thermostat is. Removal and installing the thermostat is a big PITA on the 535.

I probably got more out because of the drain from the water pump. For those who wants to drain more out, disconnecting the water pump inlet hose isn't too hard. You do have to remove the under carriage cover.

Just a word of caution as I've learned while working on these BMW. Get yourself a battery charger. If your battery is low, you may not be able to do the coolant bleed procedure.

No doubt that there aren't too many DIYer on here. If anyone has questions on DIY, feel free to PM me.

So far, I've done the following.

1. Oil filter housing
2. Spark plugs
3. Fuel Injectors
4. Water pump and thermostat

Next on my list is the serpentine belt and brake pads. I just got all the parts.. Will wait for a free weekend.
Looking forward to the serpentine belt diy. Did you have to remove it to replace the water pump?
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