[spielnicht]

Installed my Dinan springs myself last year - pretty straightforward. The first car I work on ever where the fronts are easier than the rears. Lol. All in all, follow that video above and you're set. The only thing different is I didn't remove the control arm on the rears. I just used a mini hydraulic jack with some 2X2 wooden blocks to push the hub just enough without damaging anything to slide the rear shock out.

Invest in a quality spring compressor like this:

https://www.eastwood.com/fairmount-t...xoCALQQAvD_BwE

I'll be doing it all over again soon when I install the KWs.

[lsturbointeg]

Originally Posted by spielnicht

Installed my Dinan springs myself last year - pretty straightforward. The first car I work on ever where the fronts are easier than the rears. Lol. All in all, follow that video above and you're set. The only thing different is I didn't remove the control arm on the rears. I just used a mini hydraulic jack with some 2X2 wooden blocks to push the hub just enough without damaging anything to slide the rear shock out.

Invest in a quality spring compressor like this:

https://www.eastwood.com/fairmount-t...xoCALQQAvD_BwE

I'll be doing it all over again soon when I install the KWs.

No point in buying these for one time use when you can just rent a Spring compressor at your local Auto Parts store.

[Surly73]

I've been viewing a bunch of videos on coilover DIY - planning to do this in the next couple of weeks on my X-Drive.

My observations - the referenced video from the guy near Toronto - he pulls control arms in the rear that don't seem to be necessary. One of our friends from this forum has a video on replacing a rear shock. They show that if you remove the rear brake caliper the shock can pop right in. I'd much rather remove a caliper than a wishbone. I'll just replace the brake pads while I'm in there probably.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O-gEss1FvjI

I'm shocked to hear someone say the front looks "easier" - to me the rear looks easier.

For the front - XDrive will be quite different than RWD. Again, the white one is an X-Drive so all the steps should match. The factory procedure starts with removing the heavily torqued nuts holding the hub - I think I'm probably going to try the Youtube procedure removing the upper wishbone instead.

Something that concerns me in ALL of the videos I see - despite KW going on and on about not using air tools on the strut top nuts, everyone says they know better and reef them on with air tools.

I bought a set of cheap offset box wrenches from Harbor Freight ($9.99 for a whole set of them) and used the proper method counter holding with a standard 1/4" socket on the shock shaft.

Also, strut hats/bearings are supposed to be replaced if the vehicle has >40,000km (KILOMETERS) on it. I got new Lemforder hats from the likes of FCP or ECS for a low price, and top spring pads are like $5 each. No spring compressors required for the job. I just built the coilovers with the new hats and pads and the old struts will go as-is complete in the spare parts pile in the basement.

Remember that almost all of these fasteners are technically single-use! Not a single video shows replacement hardware. In the case of the front strut-tops the bolts actually cut the threads.

A concern of mine - I don't think I'll have a Quickjack for the job and how high I can safely and confidently raise the car so I can yank at some of the high torques required is a concern. Getting my KWv3s has been a heck of an adventure due to repeated damage and issues with shipping the kit - I first laid out the cash almost a year ago. I just noticed some more damage (powder coat chipped right off) from shipping and I'm currently awaiting new front springs. Hoping to get these on during this spring with "COVID time".

Fingers crossed for spring 2020.

EDIT: Video on strut top nut installation with KW special tool kit. The cheap offset box wrench plus a socket set did the same thing for me with my v3s.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fNVRQ-Wup2g

The wrenches: https://www.harborfreight.com/8-piec...box+wrench+set

[MatthewLC]

I can provide you my observations from installing suspension (Replacement Rear Springs & Coilovers) on my F10.

First, in the rear don't waste your time with removing any suspension components, brake calipers etc... All you have to do is remove the rear fender liner. It's about 8-10 screws and with a drill/driver it takes a few minutes to get it out. With it out, you have all the room you need to get the rear shock/coilover out. This works for both OEM and aftermarket suspension. To me it's not worth the risk of trying to remove a control arm and then fighting a ball joint spinning and the nut not coming off or then having to fight to get the arm or the balljoint out. Just take the liner out and you'll be thanking yourself. Plus it gives you a good excuse to clean out the trash that's built up behind it.

I can't give you much feedback on the front as mine is a RWD but if there is anyone else with a RWD this is what I dealt with. For whatever reason there was not enough droop in the front suspension with the shock unbolted to actually get it out of its location. Everywhere I read online no one mentioned having to disconnect anything to get the front out? Anyways, the inner tie rod was at its lowest possible pivot point (if that makes sense) but it wasn't enough to get the oem shock assembly out. I assume most would have disconnected the front lower control arm ball joint but I didn't want to deal with fighting that, so I found by loosening the steering rack bolts, the rack dropped down about a CM or so which lowered the inner tie rod end enough to provide enough droop to get the oem assembly out. You don't have to worry about this with coilovers as it's physically shorter than the OEM assembly.

On my coilovers I had to reuse the OEM top hats in the rear. I did exactly what everyone says not to do and used an impact gun to get them off and on . I didn't have the appropriate wrenches to deal with it so an impact gun was my only option. I'm confident the reason why they tell you not to blast them on with a gun is because you don't want to spin the shaft of the shock and potentially damage any seals. Now, my way of dealing with that is likely one most people shouldn't follow. I used a set of vise grips with a rag, gripped it at the top of the shaft (close to the top hat) and just went slow with the gun till it was tight (to ensure I didn't spin the shaft). I figured even if I slightly marked up the shaft with the vice grips, this is the area where the bump stop sits and the shaft never has the opportunity to travel that far and potentially damage any seals. Take that for what it's worth?

Not sure about the fronts as my coilovers came with new pillow mounts, but I reused my oem top hats in the rear. The rear is just a cast metal piece (looks like aluminum) with a rubber bushing. The bushing was super tight still so I didn't bother replacing it. I also re-used all the hardware and haven't had an issue, but technically speaking you are right and should replace the hardware if you're being thorough. One thing to keep in mind is that there is an orientation to the rear top hats. I fought for an hour trying to figure out why the hell I couldn't get one side in. The stud spacing is not symmetrical and is slightly different, even though it doesn't look like it at first glance. I would highly recommend marking the orientation before taking them out to save time.

I've done my suspension on a set of stands before and it wasn't bad. I was fortunate for my coilovers a friend let me use his hoist so it was a more pleasant experience.

Considering your local, I'd be willing to lend a hand if we're not still in quarantine by the time you want to install your coilovers!

[Surly73]

Noted on the rear well liners - that's a great idea too.

A little concerned about the comments regarding room to remove the front - could be an X-Drive / RWD difference as well. I've seen a few videos where people pop the front out but one of the control arms comes out every time. I'll watch it a few more times

The video I posted concerning rear strut replacement (stock for stock) shows the different orientation of the rear top hats and would be helpful to illustrate what you mean. I *think* I viewed the video enough that I have my rears already built properly for L/R. Time will tell.

On the air guns - as far as I know the shock shafts are allowed to turn - they seem to in the front when the steering is turned. As long as they turn gently I think it's all OK. I'm sure mine were turned by hand in either the top mount fastening and the preload setting procedure so far, so I'm hoping it's all good. KW didn't include instructions saying DO NOT TURN, they just said no air guns. Your notion of clamping under the bump stop makes sense. For $10 I bought the wrench

We'll see how this quarantine goes. I'll also have to check with whoever my chosen corner balance / alignment shop is to make sure they can do their job before I do the swap.

[spielnicht]

True if it's a one time use. For me, this would be 5th use. Also, I wouldn't trust my life with the ones you rent from local auto store. The catch on the springs are flimsy and I've seen how people bend the pins from improper use. The one I got (very similar to the one I linked to), is just SOLID.

Again, for me $120 is a wise investment on my wallet and my life.

Originally Posted by lsturbointeg

No point in buying these for one time use when you can just rent a Spring compressor at your local Auto Parts store.

[spielnicht]

The fronts have more parts to take off, but they all come off with ZERO hassle. The rears on the other hand, where to start? The lower spring bolt is a BI**CH to loosen because of no clearance whatsoever for the wrench. Then you have the top mount bolts that you access through a 2x2 speaker hole.

I'm about to do this all over again, and the only reason I've been putting it off is the dread of dealing with the rears.

Originally Posted by Surly73

I'm shocked to hear someone say the front looks "easier" - to me the rear looks easier.

[lsturbointeg]

Originally Posted by spielnicht

True if it's a one time use. For me, this would be 5th use. Also, I wouldn't trust my life with the ones you rent from local auto store. The catch on the springs are flimsy and I've seen how people bend the pins from improper use. The one I got (very similar to the one I linked to), is just SOLID.

Again, for me $120 is a wise investment on my wallet and my life.

i hear ya!

[Surly73]

Originally Posted by spielnicht

The fronts have more parts to take off, but they all come off with ZERO hassle. The rears on the other hand, where to start? The lower spring bolt is a BI**CH to loosen because of no clearance whatsoever for the wrench. Then you have the top mount bolts that you access through a 2x2 speaker hole.

I'm about to do this all over again, and the only reason I've been putting it off is the dread of dealing with the rears.

Yah, I'm a little concerned about the bottom bolt torque without any assistance from air etc... I have a big breaker bar but may not have the lift height to have space to use it. I can say this will be the one thing I check before starting anything else on the job. If I can't get that bolt cracked - abort. Last thing I need is to have fronts on coilovers and be unable to do the rears, then have to drive/tow somewhere to finish the job.

Right now I have some other complications (like a healing dislocated rib) and I'm frankly a little concerned that I'm just going to hurt myself trying that one. Boy, I'm sounding old...

[BimmerHausPerformance]

I did my CO, non x-drive, and no way would I want to do that with a bad rib. You gotta ream on some of those bolts.

[lsturbointeg]

never used air tools when i did mine. use those things called muscles! lol

[Surly73]

spielnicht MatthewLC

Finally - I have the replacement springs from KW, the coilovers are assembled and adjusted for pre-load on the workbench. The time is coming soon. I have brand new hats with rubber, new front bolts for the strut towers, new bolts for the coilover bottoms (F and R), new nuts for the rear strut towers (in case I drop any).

I only have jack and stands. Was "this" close to a used Quickjack. I have to check that my chosen corner balance/alignment shop could still arrange an appointment about a week after I finish with this COVID stuff. I already need an alignment (something weird in the rear) so can only imagine the case after.

I feel game to give it a try. I may do so soon. Getting help if I need it will be my worry. On the other hand, having the car off the road for a couple of days isn't as big a deal as usual.

I just have an ongoing question about drop/ride height targets and pre-load. I might post it here....

[BimmerHausPerformance]

Here you go...

[Surly73]

Originally Posted by BrowBMW

Here you go...

Unfortunately the E90 layout is quite different than the F10. I still watch all of these though, absorbing anything that might be helpful when tackling the job.

[BimmerHausPerformance]

yea, but at the same time, like you said, it's good to see how BMW does it and at least watch someone else. I've found good advice on platforms that aren't F10 and the more you know the easier it is. I'm doing a video on removing window trim right now, believe it or not for the F10 I couldn't FIND ANYTHING on it. I'm blacking out my chrome with paint... i don't like the vinyl I had on there. We need more DIY's.

[top ramen]

This video is on a F10 M5 but the removal and installation process is the same. This is the same procedure I use when I did mines.

Here is the TIS procedure

Fronts:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/f...front/1LHsblhj

Rears:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/f...rbers/Iu3Iz7ad

[Surly73]

Originally Posted by BrowBMW

We need more DIY's.

[BimmerHausPerformance]

Preview... I am learning how to pull the trim and paint, not rattle can but really paint, turning out ok!

[Surly73]

They're going on next weekend! (That's the plan anyways).

[Surly73]

I'm not done yet, but I have comments. I'm taking a break - it's going longer than I even thought. I'm not rushing, and if necessary I'm doing more steps to attempt to minimize collateral damage - one of my "special friends" when DIYing.

I watched everything I could find but most of my research and reference came from these three videos plus TIS:

1 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nIUs5Mbo5_0
2 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nIUs5Mbo5_0
3 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TI-kTrbnV84

#2 is just a rear strut replacement but it was good to see the steps and the orientation of the top hat studs just for reference. Also how to work with the strut towers under the speakers.

#1 does most of the job. They're a little cavalier about things but they show most of the work. I am using their method of swinging the front upper wishbone out of the way to remove the fronts. They're local to me somewhere - might even be on here... I bought a cheap set of Harbor Freight offset box wrenches to do strut tops properly.

#3 has a few techniques which could be done better (like when he runs the impact on the bolt end of the fork bolt instead of the nut) that even I picked up but it's great to watch another person work through it.

Some things I can't say I saw mentioned anywhere (so far):

1/ no one ever replaces the bolts and nuts that TIS says to renew. No one. According to TIS everything touched in this whole procedure needs to be replaced. I did everything except the hardware relating to the sway bars.

2/ The bottom bolt on the rear struts has to be torqued in NORMAL POSITION according to TIS. There is a rubber bushing in the bottom of the rear shocks. No one referred to this either. It is TIGHT. I was dragging myself across the floor using the biggest breaker bar that Harbor Freight sells. It's even harder to tighten because of how things change position in normal position compared to full droop (removal). I can't even turn my torque wrench one click in the clearance given, and the wrench doesn't go high enough. I found that if I pull the socket off the bolt, let the wrench click, then put it back on the bolt I could get it done. My torque wrench is shorter than the breaker bar - it's really tight but I'm sure it isn't tight to spec. I'm going to ask my shop when doing the corner balance and alignment to check the torque of those bolts.

3/ I didn't notice anyone disconnect the rear sway bar. If you do one complete side, then do the other side, as opposed to do each step on both sides in sync, do yourself a favour and disconnect the swaybar from one end link and make the two sides independent. Especially helpful when torquing in normal position. You never have to fight the other side.

4/ Remove the front sway bar entirely. In Video #1 he's complaining about the sway bar in the way. My M5 front sway, at least, puts the end links in light contact with the strut fork when the suspension is at full droop. I was going to just remove the links but the bar itself makes pulling the strut even harder (welcoming collateral damage to wires and sensors and paint). With the front sway completely removed it was easy.

5/ Watch out for the CV joints up front to slide apart internally and they may bind. I did not see that advice anywhere in any of these videos but remembered it from something else I watched recently. Good thing I remembered that. Gingerly move things together and back in position.

6/ When not working on the front, I set the hub on an upright cinder block so everything wasn't being pulled so hard. Seems good to prevent collateral damage.

7/ Remove the rear wheel well liners for more room (someone gave that tip earlier)

8/ Lots of these videos show mechanic's helpers jumping on the hub and stuff. On the rear of my car with sway disconnected this simply wasn't necessary in the slightest. On the front - sorry but you can't be as rough as these guys show or you're going to break stuff - CV joints, wires, sensors. I don't even know that I'm in the clear yet. I'm still a little worried.

9/ I bought a QuickJack for this (and some other jobs I know are coming). I am so happy not to be messing around with stands. The extra height of the Quickjack locked at high position was vital to getting the breaker bar working on the rear strut bolts. Without the height, I may have had a non-starter. Plan to get your car high to do this. You couldn't pay me any money to do it with a jack like Video #3.

10/ I purchased new strut tops and top rubber spring perches so that I could assembly everything on the workbench weeks ago, the old set up goes COMPLETE into my "stock parts" pile, and I don't need a spring compressor just to reuse a $20 part with 83,000km on it. It didn't cost much, I'd recommend going this route if you do coilovers. A cheap set of offset box wrenches and the proper socket on my torque wrench to counter hold and it was super easy to do right with no vise grips, impact guns, or special KW tool sets.

More later..

[Luky]

Funny, I started my install yesterday too. Mine is RWD so fronts were pretty easy with my son helping me. After everything was unbolted we just used a 2x4 and some small 1"x2" blocks of wood on top of the A arm to pry the suspension down. Needed another 2 inches to get the lower wishbones off so ~6 foot 2x4 made it easy. The bilsteins were quite a bit shorter so easier to get back in.

Started the rears and got the top 3 nuts on each side loosened. Also got the big bottom nut loose on each side. Was going to pull off the rear arm for removal per the video, but I broke my neighbors T40 socket getting the front end links torqued (craftsman too). The lower rear ball joint also uses the T40... So I am heading up to Lowes to get a new one this morning. Although I think I will remove the federwell liner instead now that I have read that piece of wisdom.

I got new top plates and spring pads for both front and rear so I can keep the originals as full assemblies. The new self threading screws for the front top are more robust. The original were E12, but the heads on the new ones were E16. Same threads and length. Also the lock nut on the front lower wishbone bolt is different. The original has a nyloc style insert with a built in washer, and the new ones are simple flange nuts with "tight" threads on one end (definitely single use) This looks to be a cost reduction effort (we do a lot of this at work). I put some blue lock-tite on these as the 66 ftlbs from TIS seemed low...

The QuickJack 5000EXT are working pretty well for this job... Just the right length for F10 jack points. Also if you have some jack pad adapters like the Berger tuning style they work well on top of the rubber blocks.

I do have a question from the TIS torque chart. For the front strut bottom bolt (RWD) it says to torque to 90 Nm (66 ftlb). This seemed loose compared to the removal force. However it also say 180 degree? Does this mean to torque to 66 ftlb and then go another 180 degrees?

The front end links have a similar callout of (45 Nm) 33 ftlb & 45 degree....

Also the rear shock bottom bolt torque chart calls out M16 = 250 Nm (184 ftlb) or M14 = 165 Nm (122 ftlbs) so looks like you have to measure the bolt threads to see which size you have.

[MatthewLC]

@Surly73 good luck with the rest, hopefully it all works out well! I have no idea how much additional complexity an xi adds to this job but it seems like you've figured out a decent process.

Like I mentioned earlier the only issue I had with mine was getting enough droop to get the OEM spring/shock combo out in the front. Everyone seems to have a different method of achieving that, my goal was to take as little apart as possible. I just loosened the front rack a little to give the suspension so more droop and was able to get everything out without removing anything else (including sway bar or any other control arm). I think this may only apply to a RWD though.

I was fortunate that I had an impact gun to remove the rear lower shock bolt so it wasn't a struggle for me. You will need a shallow socket, swivel and extensions to get at it as it's pretty tight.

Point #7 is key for the rear!

You just need to figure out the process that works for you. Once that's done the job becomes pretty quick. The first time I did mine it probably took me 4 hours. Now that I know what works, I could probably swap everything over in an 1.5 hours.