[David_Vasha]

Hey everyone, after changing my coolant, my fan starts running high at certain moments when the car is getting up to temp. My water pump has been replaced and is in healthy condition. I do not know why my engine fan would run high sometimes when it's not even hot out (around 50 degrees Fahrenheit). I believe that the reason this might occur is because I either have messed up the coolant to distilled water ratio in that input too much coolant rather than water. My other theory is that it could be my tune by mhd, but even then I am still skeptical that it's that.

[David_Vasha]

UPDATE: after reading some temp logs. My fan starts running high when the temp of the coolant is relatively low (180 degrees Fahrenheit and lower) and stops when it reaches 200 degrees Fahrenheit. I am starting to think that the mix of the coolant to water is possibly too thick and must be diluted with water. I also noticed that if I went from the lowest AC temp to the highest, the coolant would heat up faster.

[ziekxq]

Originally Posted by David_Vasha

UPDATE: after reading some temp logs. My fan starts running high when the temp of the coolant is relatively low (180 degrees Fahrenheit and lower) and stops when it reaches 200 degrees Fahrenheit. I am starting to think that the mix of the coolant to water is possibly too thick and must be diluted with water. I also noticed that if I went from the lowest AC temp to the highest, the coolant would heat up faster.

Or water pump is on its way.

[David_Vasha]

Originally Posted by ziekxq

Or water pump is on its way.

But the water pump is fine. It was replaced and the stream is still strong

[Unspec]

Grab one of those coolant testing tools, I believe a proper 50/50 mix protects down to -34*F.

Something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Performance-T...D725311AD5A5EF

[beegeezy]

Did you (or your mechanic) make sure that air was purged from the cooling system when the water pump was replaced?

[David_Vasha]

Originally Posted by beegeezy

Did you (or your mechanic) make sure that air was purged from the cooling system when the water pump was replaced?

Yes

[beegeezy]

Have you looked at this?: https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/f...ic-fan/XZ4xFVp

I don't understand how the coolant mixture ratio can affect your fan speed. The coolant temperature sensor reads the temperature regardless of the fluid, be it coolant, oil, cheese, etc. The radiator efficiency will be reduced with too much coolant, but that doesn't mean the fan should turn on max speed at a lower temperature.

From the TIS page: The electric fan is controlled by the engine control unit via a pulse-width-modulated signal (evaluation by electronic circuitry in the fan). The engine control unit controls the various radiator fan speeds by means of a pulse-width modulated signal (between 7% and 93%). Pulse duty factors less than 7% and greater than 93% do not trigger activation but rather they are used for fault recognition purposes. The speed of the radiator fan is dependent on the coolant temperature at the coolant outlet (radiator) and the pressure in the air conditioning system. When the cars driving speed increases, the speed of the radiator fan decreases.

So, we need to know at what temperature (and a/c pressure) does the fan normally hit maximum speed.

[David_Vasha]

Originally Posted by beegeezy

Have you looked at this?: https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/f...ic-fan/XZ4xFVp

I don't understand how the coolant mixture ratio can affect your fan speed. The coolant temperature sensor reads the temperature regardless of the fluid, be it coolant, oil, cheese, etc. The radiator efficiency will be reduced with too much coolant, but that doesn't mean the fan should turn on max speed at a lower temperature.

From the TIS page: The electric fan is controlled by the engine control unit via a pulse-width-modulated signal (evaluation by electronic circuitry in the fan). The engine control unit controls the various radiator fan speeds by means of a pulse-width modulated signal (between 7% and 93%). Pulse duty factors less than 7% and greater than 93% do not trigger activation but rather they are used for fault recognition purposes. The speed of the radiator fan is dependent on the coolant temperature at the coolant outlet (radiator) and the pressure in the air conditioning system. When the cars driving speed increases, the speed of the radiator fan decreases.

So, we need to know at what temperature (and a/c pressure) does the fan normally hit maximum speed.

The mix of the coolant can alter the way heat is transferred. Coolant straight up is not good at transferring heat at a certain sport this why we need to mix it with water. I think I put too much antifreeze and this set off the ratio needed.

[Bmwdoubles_]

This also happens if your AC is losing refrigerant. Our ac condensers are brittle at the connecting lines. Make sure you don't have a leak.

[David_Vasha]

Originally Posted by beegeezy

Have you looked at this?: https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/f...ic-fan/XZ4xFVp

I don't understand how the coolant mixture ratio can affect your fan speed. The coolant temperature sensor reads the temperature regardless of the fluid, be it coolant, oil, cheese, etc. The radiator efficiency will be reduced with too much coolant, but that doesn't mean the fan should turn on max speed at a lower temperature.

From the TIS page: The electric fan is controlled by the engine control unit via a pulse-width-modulated signal (evaluation by electronic circuitry in the fan). The engine control unit controls the various radiator fan speeds by means of a pulse-width modulated signal (between 7% and 93%). Pulse duty factors less than 7% and greater than 93% do not trigger activation but rather they are used for fault recognition purposes. The speed of the radiator fan is dependent on the coolant temperature at the coolant outlet (radiator) and the pressure in the air conditioning system. When the cars driving speed increases, the speed of the radiator fan decreases.

So, we need to know at what temperature (and a/c pressure) does the fan normally hit maximum speed.

After monitoring the coolant temperature through Bimmerlink, I found that the fan does some unusual behavior. It kicks on when the temp reads around 170 F and 180 F and it cycles on and off on the high speed. Once the coolant rises to normal operating temp (around 210 F). The thing is the coolant temp never rises above 220 F. I went ahead and checked to see if the water pump had any symptoms of failure but like I said it was recently replaced and the stream was very strong and consistent during the bleeding process. I changed the coolant to water mix and this fan issue was becoming less an issue. I think that I am simply overreacting or that a certain relay or other mean of communication to the fan is at fault. One thing I noticed while monitoring coolant temps was that it would drop from 210 F to about 180 F when quickly changing the AC temp to the max.

Overall I am not sure, I will continue to monitor this behavior and contact my technician about it. the previous owner had installed the wrong coolant in the vehicle and who knows if he used distilled water or not. This could be the fault, but likely not. I am just thinking of everything and then dialing it down to what seems most feasible.

[beegeezy]

Originally Posted by David_Vasha

After monitoring the coolant temperature through Bimmerlink, I found that the fan does some unusual behavior. It kicks on when the temp reads around 170 F and 180 F and it cycles on and off on the high speed. Once the coolant rises to normal operating temp (around 210 F). The thing is the coolant temp never rises above 220 F. I went ahead and checked to see if the water pump had any symptoms of failure but like I said it was recently replaced and the stream was very strong and consistent during the bleeding process. I changed the coolant to water mix and this fan issue was becoming less an issue. I think that I am simply overreacting or that a certain relay or other mean of communication to the fan is at fault. One thing I noticed while monitoring coolant temps was that it would drop from 210 F to about 180 F when quickly changing the AC temp to the max.

Overall I am not sure, I will continue to monitor this behavior and contact my technician about it. the previous owner had installed the wrong coolant in the vehicle and who knows if he used distilled water or not. This could be the fault, but likely not. I am just thinking of everything and then dialing it down to what seems most feasible.

Good luck. Keep us posted.

[David_Vasha]

Spoke to my technician/mechanic, he told me that it shouldn't be an issue. Although, we only talked about it over the phone. Next time I see him I'll get him to check it out. I monitored it and the only time the fan really comes on at high speeds are when it slows down or at stop and go traffic. My worries is that it's not even hot yet so I don't know why it's acting up. It hasn't been doing this since after my coolant change.

[David_Vasha]

Another update everyone. It turns out y'all were right, the fault was at the waterpump. The second code stays that the pump wasn't keeping the speed of the coolant to what the engine was communicating/ demanding for it to be at. This code only popped up once but I guess I just got unlucky and had got a bad pump.

[Babym5]

I see you had the code 119201 did that go away once u replace the water pump