[Luky]

Is there a good DIY for installing coilovers on an F10? I had a local shop quote me $2600 for install, including an alignment. I pushed back saying I had done it in 8 hours before (on a Saab Viggen) and expect less from a mechanic. Then using my VIN and All DATA labor times, they came back with 5.6 hours for the fronts (sounds high to me) and 3.4 hours for the rears (reasonable). Their labor rate is $130/Hr so now down to ~$1170 for the install + $312 for alignment (2.4 hours). I thought fronts were easier when I did them and want to understand the higher labor time. Do I need new rear top shock mounts (since it is apart) or new front top plates (to adjust alignment)?

[CC424]

Originally Posted by Luky

Is there a good DIY for installing coilovers on an F10? I had a local shop quote me $2600 for install, including an alignment. I pushed back saying I had done it in 8 hours before (on a Saab Viggen) and expect less from a mechanic. Then using my VIN and All DATA labor times, they came back with 5.6 hours for the fronts (sounds high to me) and 3.4 hours for the rears (reasonable). Their labor rate is $130/Hr so now down to ~$1170 for the install + $312 for alignment (2.4 hours). I thought fronts were easier when I did them and want to understand the higher labor time. Do I need new rear top shock mounts (since it is apart) or new front top plates (to adjust alignment)?

YouTube would be a great source. I did my lowering springs in about 9 hours. My first time attempting it. You have to make sure you have the right tools. I have a lifetime alignment with firestone which was only 200. I know it's not BMW forced balance but I haven't had any issues.

[BurrNinja]

Usually the top hats in front should be replaced when removing, unknown about rear also buy new bolts as they are self tapping. Removing the old suspension is easy I learned how to remove from youtube videos watching axle removal. All I did was loosen the top control arm from the whole carrier hub assembly push that down and work your struts out. Rears are the pain to get to the nuts just take your time.

[lsturbointeg]

my buddy and I knocked this out in a few hours when I installed my KW's. there's no YouTube videos for coilover install as I searched all over but it's basically removing struts and shocks. If your new coilovers have top hats than you won't have to reuse the OEM top hats like I did. you will need to access the rear shelf where you're speakers are with a torx bit as that's where the rear shocks bolt to up top

[lsturbointeg]

I just found out KIES has a video now

[Luky]

Originally Posted by lsturbointeg

my buddy and I knocked this out in a few hours when I installed my KW's. there's no YouTube videos for coilover install as I searched all over but it's basically removing struts and shocks. If your new coilovers have top hats than you won't have to reuse the OEM top hats like I did. you will need to access the rear shelf where you're speakers are with a torx bit as that's where the rear shocks bolt to up top

Thanks. I was planning to buy new OE top hats/RSM as it does not look like the Bilstein set up come with them from pics and only $16 ea for front and $21 ea for rear (Lemforder). I have all the tools needed and even a quick jack, but if I can get it done professionally for ~$800 I'll pay it to save the hassle. I was able to get the local BMW dealer service writer to "price match" and do H&R springs a rear sway and an alignment on my 2013 535i for $800 a few years ago... he was also also an enthusiast...

[John H.]

Originally Posted by Luky

Thanks. I was planning to buy new OE top hats/RSM as it does not look like the Bilstein set up come with them from pics and only $16 ea for front and $21 ea for rear (Lemforder). I have all the tools needed and even a quick jack, but if I can get it done professionally for ~$800 I'll pay it to save the hassle. I was able to get the local BMW dealer service writer to "price match" and do H&R springs a rear sway and an alignment on my 2013 535i for $800 a few years ago... he was also also an enthusiast...

Double check your part number for your front strut mounts. The xDrives, diesels, and 550s have the same strut mount, 31306863295. This is most likely because of the added weight up front vs. base models. I would bet that the bushing in the mount is stronger, made to accommodate the extra weight.

OEM mounts for our vehicles are hard to find. OE a plenty; however, about $80, ea. I managed to buy to OEM Febi on eBay from a German diesel parts dealer out East. If I am not mistaken, it was there last two.

[ckaul]

So when putting in lowering springs its necessary to change out the shock mounts all around the car as well?

[Luky]

Originally Posted by lsturbointeg

I just found out KIES has a video now

Good video. Thank you. Did you have to remove the top control arms in the front to get the strut asm out? This was a little surprising. I just looked and on a 550 the drivers side bolt looks like the driver side ECU+ mount has to come out (two easy bolts) but removing the coolant lines to the ECU will be a pita. On the passenger side the ECU mount bolts are under other parts so looks like it needs to remove the front frame brace and then the lower intake plenum tube to barely get to the A arm bolt on the side of the strut tower (under the passenger side ECU)... Is removing the top A arm only because it was an 535iX?

How about the rear? It did not mention removing the rear sway end links, and they also removed a rear control arm to get it out? Was this your experience?

One thing I learned from the video is to just buy new nuts for the top of the RSM with the mounts so if you drop one you don't have to dick around tearing the trunk apart...

After asking the local shop why labor was so high on the fronts, I asked if they were including R&R the springs and top hats, blah blah blah about the simple step to remove it? I told them I would supply new mounts so I could save this labor. They said they "cross checked" against Mitchell International labor time guide and it came back with 3.4 hours front and 3.0 for the rear and the alignment went down to two hours labor. So $832 for coilover install labor and $260 for the alignment ($1092 total plus tax). Still a little more than I'd like but not too bad considering they started at $2600. They did offer a good price for the Bilstein PSS10 kit on their website for only $2030 including tax.

Figured I would call another Indy BMW shop or two to confirm install labor cost and alignment costs. I think the two BMW independents in North San Diego I had checked previously were right around $250 for the alignment, but one is not open Saturdays.

[Luky]

Originally Posted by John H.

Double check your part number for your front strut mounts. The xDrives, diesels, and 550s have the same strut mount, 31306863295. This is most likely because of the added weight up front vs. base models. I would bet that the bushing in the mount is stronger, made to accommodate the extra weight.

OEM mounts for our vehicles are hard to find. OE a plenty; however, about $80, ea. I managed to buy to OEM Febi on eBay from a German diesel parts dealer out East. If I am not mistaken, it was there last two.

What you say is true. FCP Euro and ECS both only show BMW top mounts @ $95 each for the 550i (PN 31306863295 per realOEM). realOEM shows this part number applies to ALL F10 LCI models from 07/01/2013 on...

FCP and ECS both show Lemforder for 520,528,535, 550i for 2011-2013. The BMW part is for all all years. So I went direct to Lemforder web catalogue and confirmed the same part number/fit was same for 2016 550i and it is. So I can get all four mounts with FCP lifetime replacement warranty for about $78... Just need to add new screws for the front and extra nuts for the rear...

Parts list from realOEM
(Msport suspension, not active suspension)
Front BMW F10 Strut Mount - Lemforder 3497101 = bmw 31306795083 (catalog shows it fits a 2016 550i; autohauzAZ shows it fits) lemforder 4221701 for F10 LCI = bmw 31306863295 = Febi Bilstein PN 45552
self tapping screws for strut mount: 31306795151
Rear BMW F10 Shock Mount - Lemforder 3492701= bmw 33506775735 (shows it fits) Lemforder 4221601 for F10 LCI =bmw 33506863299
locking nuts for RSM: 07119905374
Lock Nut for top of front/rear strut shaft: 32216769539

[John H.]

Originally Posted by ckaul

So when putting in lowering springs its necessary to change out the shock mounts all around the car as well?

It is recommended by the factory. I read it over at TIS Info.

These mounts can be easily stripped. The torque on the mounting bolts are 28 Nm or 20.65 ft lbs.

Don't forget the bolts. There is an updated torx version.

[John H.]

Originally Posted by Luky

What you say is true. FCP Euro and ECS both only show BMW top mounts @ $95 each for the 550i (PN 31306863295 per realOEM). realOEM shows this part number applies to ALL F10 LCI models from 07/01/2013 on...

FCP and ECS both show Lemforder for 520,528,535, 550i for 2011-2013. The BMW part is for all all years. So I went direct to Lemforder web catalogue and confirmed the same part number/fit was same for 2016 550i and it is. So I can get all four mounts with FCP lifetime replacement warranty for about $78... Just need to add new screws for the front and extra nuts for the rear...

Parts list from realOEM
(Msport suspension, not active suspension)
Front BMW F10 Strut Mount - Lemforder 3497101 = bmw 31306795083 (catalog shows it fits a 2016 550i; autohauzAZ shows it fits) lemforder 4221701 for F10 LCI = bmw 31306863295 = Febi Bilstein PN 45552
self tapping screws for strut mount: 31306795151
Rear BMW F10 Shock Mount - Lemforder 3492701= bmw 33506775735 (shows it fits) Lemforder 4221601 for F10 LCI =bmw 33506863299
locking nuts for RSM: 07119905374
Lock Nut for top of front/rear strut shaft: 32216769539

This might help with the cross-ref to the mount...

https://www.autodoc.co.uk/car-parts/oem/31306863295

Unfortunately, many of the OEM parts listed above are difficult to acquire CONUS. My purchase was made from https://www.idparts.com via eBay. Bought two for about $75, shipped. Also, RockAuto sells SACHS 803293 replacement mounts; however, OUT OF STOCK.

.

[Surly73]

The speed academy video makes it look relatively straight forward, I have to say. I've been toying the idea with DIY installing mine but I'm undecided. Prices are all over in my area. I've found a really good price at a very highly regarded shop for around CAD$800 for install and CAD$400 for corner balance and alignment but the shop is a real hike from me. I do a LOT of DIY, but my personal luck wrenching on my F10 just doesn't seem as good as when I worked on E90, E39 and E46s. Or I'm getting old and clumsy.

I have already sourced mounts for all four corners and updated bolts for the front. I might add nuts for the rear to an upcoming order.

KWv3s and all of these parts are ready to go for when spring hits. As soon as it's PS4S weather again I'll be looking at getting this done.

[ckaul]

Originally Posted by John H.

It is recommended by the factory. I read it over at TIS Info.

These mounts can be easily stripped. The torque on the mounting bolts are 28 Nm or 20.65 ft lbs.

Don't forget the bolts. There is an updated torx version.

Thank you, will do. I have a 2012 F10 with 81k miles, going to be putting H&R springs in within the next month. Was wondering if you knew which parts I should change while i have the struts out... Already changing the strut mounts and the bolts/nuts associated with them. So upper and lower spring pads, bump stops for the front and rear, and also was wondering which nuts/bolts in the strut assembly I should also replace. Thank you!

[John H.]

Originally Posted by ckaul

Thank you, will do. I have a 2012 F10 with 81k miles, going to be putting H&R springs in within the next month. Was wondering if you knew which parts I should change while i have the struts out... Already changing the strut mounts and the bolts/nuts associated with them. So upper and lower spring pads, bump stops for the front and rear, and also was wondering which nuts/bolts in the strut assembly I should also replace. Thank you!

Yesterday, received the SACHS/ZF 803293 mounts, Made in DE. The bolt holes are bare, not threaded. Definitely, one-time, maybe two-time, use. Remember, the strut mount bolts are self-tapping.

I did try to salvage my old mounts from the strut bar install; however, two have failed on my torque re-check (after 50-60 miles of driving after install).The aluminum material of mount is soft. It sucks but will replace both sides with new mounts.

Next week, I will be installing the newly received mounts. Along with that, I will be installing new strut mount bolts, top bolts (strut), and upper spring pads. I'm considering the lower pad and dust cover.

.

[ckaul]

Originally Posted by John H.

Yesterday, received the SACHS/ZF 803293 mounts, Made in DE. The bolt holes are bare, not threaded. Definitely, one-time, maybe two-time, use. Remember, the strut mount bolts are self-tapping.

I did try to salvage my old mounts from the strut bar install; however, two have failed on my torque re-check (after 50-60 miles of driving after install).The aluminum material of mount is soft. It sucks but will replace both sides with new mounts.

Next week, I will be installing the newly received mounts. Along with that, I will be installing new strut mount bolts, top bolts (strut), and upper spring pads. I'm considering the lower pad and dust cover.

.

I understand. Good to know. Let me know what you end up doing. I am conflicted because a friend of mine who is a technician and will be installing the springs for me said that at 81k miles I should also replace the struts. I do not see a point in buying replacement OEM struts and instead am just considering coilovers at that point because with buying all these dust shields, spring pads and bump stops... its a couple hundred dollars right there and then i have to spend another couple hundred on the actual springs.. so I dont see a point in spending so much on struts and replace all of that too when I could just buy coilovers. Could you advise if you have any idea? I dont know if you have lowered or what mileage you're at.

[Luky]

Originally Posted by ckaul

I understand. Good to know. Let me know what you end up doing. I am conflicted because a friend of mine who is a technician and will be installing the springs for me said that at 81k miles I should also replace the struts. I do not see a point in buying replacement OEM struts and instead am just considering coilovers at that point because with buying all these dust shields, spring pads and bump stops... its a couple hundred dollars right there and then i have to spend another couple hundred on the actual springs.. so I dont see a point in spending so much on struts and replace all of that too when I could just buy coilovers. Could you advise if you have any idea? I dont know if you have lowered or what mileage you're at.

Parts are not that much if you avoid BMW OEM. Look for the OE parts on FCPEuro.com, eeuroparts.com, AutohausAZ.com...

Shocks/struts should be replaced by 80k-100k miles but most people don't. They are just used to the crappy way the car handles as these parts deteriorate very slowly... If you add H&R springs it will wear out stock suspension even faster so you may as well replace it. Buy (good quality) once, cry once...

[Luky]

Originally Posted by John H.

Unfortunately, many of the OEM parts listed above are difficult to acquire CONUS. My purchase was made from https://www.idparts.com via eBay. Bought two for about $75, shipped. Also, RockAuto sells SACHS 803293 replacement mounts; however, OUT OF STOCK.

.

Yep, found the website idparts.com last night (I will never buy from ebay or use paypal again). They only show the SACHS 803293 front mounts (not rears) for F10 LCI. Also show as out of stock.

[ckaul]

Originally Posted by Luky

Parts are not that much if you avoid BMW OEM. Look for the OE parts on FCPEuro.com, eeuroparts.com, AutohausAZ.com...

Shocks/struts should be replaced by 80k-100k miles but most people don't. They are just used to the crappy way the car handles as these parts deteriorate very slowly... If you add H&R springs it will wear out stock suspension even faster so you may as well replace it. Buy (good quality) once, cry once...

True, I mean makes sense. But still a hard pill to swallow... Thats still gonna be a pretty penny because even just OE parts for this damn car are expensive. It's quite difficult to afford parts for this car as I am still a student. I am considering just going with the springs for now and using them for a year and a half or so and by that time I will have a real job so maybe then I could go with a full KW V3 set of coilovers... But we shall see.

[John H.]

Good point. The OE struts are pretty pricey for the xDrive. Last I checked, they are about 3 bills, ea. Other than KWs, I was unable to find an OEM replacement for the fronts. Consdering my mileage, I too must consider replacement. Must research more on OEM struts for xDrive.

KWs will set you back about 2k. In the past year or so, I've only seen one set (xDrive specific) for sale in the Member's Classified. Not certain what it sold for.

JFYI, The xDrive front strut forks are unique, as one fork curves out.

Also, strut mounts are not included with KWs for xDrive. From DIY videos, installers are transferring the mounts.

.

[BimmerHausPerformance]

My guy quoted me 500 bucks, lol and I am still gonna do it myself.

[Surly73]

On brands - Lemforder will be the same as the part with the BMW logo on it. I bought Lemforder through either ECS or FCP, whichever was cheaper at the time.