[Kill_Shot]

Hi Guys,

I bought a used 2012 bmw 535i xdrive vehicle with 60k miles almost 2 years ago. It is at 97k currently. I am a first time owner of BMW. I was aware of an OFHG leak 6+ months after i owned it. I went to an indy shop to get it fixed, noticed it still leaking several months later, and noticed they went out of business when indeed they had 2 year / 24k warrantly . So the oil leak was never fixed .

I was driving my car last week and got a Charging malfunction error : battery is not recharging. stop carefully consult nearest service center.

Had it to towed to the next indy shop who i denied for initial oil leak over being cheap and saving 200 bucks. I got it towed to them and here is the response. I've read horror stories about the serpentine belt getting sucked into the engine. Let me know what you guys think.

The quick fix would be to just get the belt done and sell it to a dealership but i have a lot of cosmetic money involved in this and just got 1400 in new tires literally 2 weeks ago. I also owe about 12k left on it.

looking for advice, please read below.

As discussed your car has a heavy oil leak from the valve cover and another heavy leak from the oil filter housing gasket. This has resulted in the oil contaminated serpentine belt shredding and wrapping itself around the crankshaft and alternator. It appears upon close inspection that the belt has been ingested through the front crank seal. That is a concern.

The following are estimates for the repairs we discussed. Estimated prices include parts, labor and tax. Estimates can change if latent damage is revealed during the repair process. No additional repairs made without approval.

1- Remove and replace oil filter housing gasket and associated parts. Replace Crankshaft oil seal. Clean affected area and perform oil pressure "priming" procedure after repairs. Replace oil soaked upper radiator hose, serpentine belt and one additional coolant hose. Remove all belt debris from ancillary components and perform an oil and filter service.

Note: This repair does include replacing the damaged crankshaft oil seal but does not include removing the oil pan to inspect for belt debris. Debris in the pan could adversely affect oil pressure by blocking the oil pump pickup tube. It may be fine, but it's unknown. Total estimate, $2,173.57

2- Option 2 would be the same as above with the addition of removing the oil pan to inspect for debris. This is a major repair. It cost significantly more money but would definitively address the concern of debris in the pan. Total estimate, $4395.78

Neither one of these repairs address's the Valve cover repair the car also needs.

Please call me or stop by to discuss in person. I'm happy to answer your questions.

so all in all would be 4400 + 1300 for valve cover. This car was a gift to me for getting my most successful job in my life and i do feel sentimentally attached, but i am not married to it.

[Encendido3]

As someone who just went through this, the quote they gave is in line with what I received from the dealer. You definitely have to drop the oil pan because there is likely belt in the pan. I drove 300 miles home after getting the belt fixed (prior to fixing the leak etc) and my oil pickup tube was full of debris and almost clogged.

First question would be how mechanically inclined are you and do you have the tools to do the repairs? The job is time consuming, but not impossible. I think I spent around $800 in parts/tools to do all of the work.

Hardest part for me was the oil pan since I couldn't get the subframe all the way off to remove it 100%. Instead, a smaller friend was able to essentially get his whole arm in the pan and clean it out for me. OFHG is way too easy to pay that amount of money the dealership charges . Just buy the parts from FCPEuro. There are literally like 6 bolts to remove. Just take your time and tighten to spec. Last thing you want to do is snap a bolt.
If you tackle this yourself, just remember to take your time. You don't want to rush and mess something up that could've easily been avoided.

[BurrNinja]

If you you go the repair route look into this. Its definitely a must.

Website is https://www.oxwerkzperformance.com/products.html
Ive questioned on there video if the plate works with n55 to be sure, I will let you know. Im very interested in purchasing this.

Update:
They are in production of a n55 guard plate.

Update:
N55 plate is produced, out of stock.

[Kill_Shot]

Encendido3, I do not have the mechanic incline to do the above job or tools. My biggest fear is the unknown that pieces of the gasket have gotten into the engine, so I do the expensive repair job and something goes wrong down the road. Do you also feel comfortable driving the car without the unknown of extra debris?

Keep in mind the belt was SHREDDED to pieces.

Burrninja: you are correct would help but not help if its already in the engine.

What would you guys suggest?

My biggest fear is I do the job and then in 10k miles or less the oil has a tough time and my entire engine is blown. My last option is I get the belts replaced for 6-800 bucks and dump it off to a dealer, i have a conscience and couldn't do that to a private party.

I am in such a dilemma right now

[BurrNinja]

Pull that oil pan get the shavings out. Change oil. Best way make it a diy weekend.

[ezaircon4jc]

Originally Posted by Kill_Shot

My last option is I get the belts replaced for 6-800 bucks and dump it off to a dealer, i have a conscience and couldn't do that to a private party.

I am in such a dilemma right now

The dealer will "dump it off" on a private party...

[Kill_Shot]

can anyone speculate on long term damage if i get the most expensive repair done? i drove it for 5 miles after i got the warning.

[Encendido3]

@Kill_Shot I was freaked out about it too but couldn't justify blowing alll of my car savings in one shot. Honestly what I did was look at what the dealer was going to do, and then look up the videos on how to do it. If you aren't mechanically inclined and don't feel comfortable, don't do it. You'll just frustrate yourself unnecessarily.

All of the jobs typically done when this happens aren't hard, per se, just time consuming. If you look at your estimate, I'd venture a guess that it's 75%-80% labor. The damage that can happen, from what was explained to me, is the oil pickup tube gets restricted and the engine starves for oil while driving. Also, if pieces get caught in the timing chain it can throw the timing off and throw a rod(?). Not 100% on that one but the oil pickup being blocked is a verified one. Mine was caked up pretty bad when I took it out.

It's really up to you at this point. It doesn't seem like you are that attached to the car so the easy way to do it would be trade it in. Hopefully the buyer will get a warranty that covers any damage.

[ziekxq]

I think for that much money you can get a used engine with low mileage.

What state do you live in?

[Stück]

No one can tell you what condition the engine, bearings are in if you drove 5mi with a potentially restricted oil pump pickup.

If you owe 12k on the car you need to put your big boy pants on and get it fixed correctly. This means dropping the oil pan to inspect for, remove all debris from the sump.

I would also recommend going one step further (due to your continued operation) and having the rod bearings replaced, they are a weak point on the N55 anyway so if a large amount of debris is clogging the pickup tube go in and do the bearings.

I've started recommending rod bearings as a value added preventative maintenance item on my clients N5x powered cars as more often than not they are in rough shape from prolonged oil service intervals with low quality oil and filters.

I carry out the "option 2" repair about 2-3 times per quarter for clients who put off the oil filter housing leak repeatedly. Its a bummer but every one of them was warned about what WILL happen should they elect to continually decline a relatively trivial repair. I've never had one die thereafter successfully repairing the car. We've pulled complete obstructions from oil pump pickup tubes before as well, like comical amounts....


Since you are in Minnesota I would recommend you go see my friend Seth rather than the dealer. He'll do it right, likely come out less, and give you a longer warranty. https://www.eurotechmn.com

[harris69]

Stuck knows his stuff. If I was you I'd listen to him and do exactly what he says...

[Kill_Shot]

@Stuck and others. Here is my only problem, I have heard even if i do the most expensive repair there can still be components of the belt stuck in the engine. So that means i can spend the 4k+ and still have issues down the road and blow the engine. Any thoughts or suggestions on this from somebody who has serviced this, or gone through this? and to go back I did have the OFHG leak fixed by a company a year and half ago that went out of business, but they clearly didn't fix it. Other option is I get a temp fix and sell it to dealership and just hope to break even on the loan? thoughts suggestions?

ziekxq I am in Minnesota

only fix i have heard to completely remove belt is to take apart entire engine which would be way to cost consuming.

thoughts suggestions?

and i reference this article:

https://autoscope.co/car-repair/bmw-...inside-engine/

[Stück]

I do this for a living, as does my friend Seth whos shop I recommended to you. Removing all of the belt debris is not an issue for a competent technician with an accurately estimated and approved work order.

Now if you were to take the car back to the place that halfassed the oil filter housing gaskets, likely used cheap aftermarket parts to increase thier profit at your expense, and went out of business like all the shops racing to the bottom do.... yeah you'd likely have issues with their quality of repairs.

People on the internet talk about lots of stuff they have no practical experience with.

[Kill_Shot]

@Stück are you suggesting I go to your friend who can GUARANTEE he will remove all of the above? with the same estimate i showed you from a local indy shop? in all my of my research I have determined there is no absolute way without replacing the entire engine.

why can the indy shop i went to, not do the same stuff as your suggested friend? either way an expensive ass job that is annoying. And no the indy shop i am going to now is different than the one that went out of business.

[Stück]

No legitimate shop will work off an estimate provided to you by another shop.

I have no idea how capable or not the independent shop you have your vehicle at now is, but I know Seth and I've trained with, under him. He has two locations. I respect him as an industry professional of the utmost prowess. I do -not- give out referrals lightly as this industry is inundated with people operating within the field that simply are not qualified.

This is perfectly repairable (and preventable in the first place) by qualified technicians.

[F10love]

@Stuck: my OFHG has been leaking for a fee months now and have dreaded the work and really couldn’t afford the dealer’s quote (lost job over a year ago) so ordered everything from FCPEuro except belt as rhe dealer made no mention of it. Would you say since I’d be replacing the OFHG to change the belt too as a preventative and if so, should I change the tensioner too?
Thanks in advance!!

[mashpotato]

Yup. You are close so you can do it all at once.

The only thing I suggest is your OFHG is the new version. It has more ridges. So go new OEM. Some of the older ones will leak again soon.

[Unspec]

Originally Posted by mashpotato

Yup. You are close so you can do it all at once.

The only thing I suggest is your OFHG is the new version. It has more ridges. So go new OEM. Some of the older ones will leak again soon.

Why not just go with a vitron material gasket and just call it a day?

[OnlyGerman]

Originally Posted by F10love

@Stuck: my OFHG has been leaking for a fee months now and have dreaded the work and really couldn’t afford the dealer’s quote (lost job over a year ago) so ordered everything from FCPEuro except belt as rhe dealer made no mention of it. Would you say since I’d be replacing the OFHG to change the belt too as a preventative and if so, should I change the tensioner too?
Thanks in advance!!

I would just get the belt, tensioner kit from FCP and do that as well. I think it was like $100.

[mashpotato]

Originally Posted by Unspec

Why not just go with a vitron material gasket and just call it a day?

Whatever works. I did some reseach other n55 besides f10. the older gasket version (and aftermarket) has early failures.

When I did mine, it was leaking for a while. the old one is hardened, and it was too recessed in the bottom edge. I think the new design with the ridges fit well, might seal a bit better (harder to compress), and I heard they upgrade the material.

For this part I don't think cheaper is better, just how hard it is to change it.

I also mod the operating temp in MHD to 96C. It used to be 106C, hopefully its more durable. Im 30k in now.

[Unspec]

Originally Posted by mashpotato

Whatever works. I did some reseach other n55 besides f10. the older gasket version (and aftermarket) has early failures.

When I did mine, it was leaking for a while. the old one is hardened, and it was too recessed in the bottom edge. I think the new design with the ridges fit well, might seal a bit better (harder to compress), and I heard they upgrade the material.

For this part I don't think cheaper is better, just how hard it is to change it.

I also mod the operating temp in MHD to 96C. It used to be 106C, hopefully its more durable. Im 30k in now.

The vitron gasket is actually more expensive. 26 bucks for the gasket.

[Godiva_435i]

Hi Kill_Shot, I am really sad that this has happened to you.. I just got the same issue with my BMW 435i 2015.. I know this did affected your day as much as I am now. I am really stressed right now too and I would like to know what were the steps you did. Please feel free to PM me or reply to this text. Thank you so much! I would really appreciate it!