[ntran90]

Hi All,

I recently got into DIY car maintenance and noticed today that my 535i is missing what looks to be the vacuum pipe. I've been researching but can't seem to confirm where the vacuum pipe runs to and to add more confusion I've seen posts about that vacuum pipe is only needed for N55 with pneumatic wastegate and that BMW switched over to electronic wastegate in 2014. My 535i's production date is 11/2014 so I thought I was in the clear for needed it but when I went on to https://www.realoem.com and looked up my VIN the pipe shows up under the engine parts list (P/N: 11657588771). Is there a way to confirm if my specific N55 needs this vacuum pipe? And if so where does the pipe run to?

[musclesmarinara75]

Originally Posted by ntran90

Hi All,

I recently got into DIY car maintenance and noticed today that my 535i is missing what looks to be the vacuum pipe. I've been researching but can't seem to confirm where the vacuum pipe runs to and to add more confusion I've seen posts about that vacuum pipe is only needed for N55 with pneumatic wastegate and that BMW switched over to electronic wastegate in 2014. My 535i's production date is 11/2014 so I thought I was in the clear for needed it but when I went on to https://www.realoem.com and looked up my VIN the pipe shows up under the engine parts list (P/N: 11657588771). Is there a way to confirm if my specific N55 needs this vacuum pipe? And if so where does the pipe run to?

What's up man, I think I'm pretty sure on this one, I know that is the vacuum line that feeds down the intake manifold and connects to the vacuum pump, not sure about having EWG or PWG, but you will need that vacuum for your crankcase ventilation.. do you have any codes?

[ntran90]

Originally Posted by musclesmarinara75

What's up man, I think I'm pretty sure on this one, I know that is the vacuum line that feeds down the intake manifold and connects to the vacuum pump, not sure about having EWG or PWG, but you will need that vacuum for your crankcase ventilation.. do you have any codes?

Thanks for the input. Boy do I have codes...

12 Motor electronics
20 errors
140310: Misfire, cylinder 3: detected
140410: Misfire, cylinder 4: detected
140002: Misfiring, multiple cylinders: harmful to exhaust gas after starting
140302: Misfire, cylinder 3: harmful to exhaust gas after starting
140402: Misfiring, cylinder 4: harmful to exhaust gas after starting
231501: Error memory entry: Send buffer full
190302: Tank ventilation and purge air system, fine leak: leakage greater than 0.5 mm
140010: Misfire, multiple cylinders: detected
140410: Misfire, cylinder 4: detected
140002: Misfiring, multiple cylinders: harmful to exhaust gas after starting
140402: Misfiring, cylinder 4: harmful to exhaust gas after starting
231501: Error memory entry: Send buffer full
190302: Tank ventilation and purge air system, fine leak: leakage greater than 0.5 mm
140010: Misfire, multiple cylinders: detected
140410: Misfire, cylinder 4: detected
140002: Misfiring, multiple cylinders: harmful to exhaust gas after starting
140402: Misfiring, cylinder 4: harmful to exhaust gas after starting
231501: Error memory entry: Send buffer full
190302: Tank ventilation and purge air system, fine leak: leakage greater than 0.5 mm
21A023: Combustion engine: false start or engine stopped without driver influence

I scanned using Bimmerlink via an Enet cable. Before scanning I did noticed a very rough startup (RPM would spike up and sometimes bounce a bit, but would eventually calm down) but no checking engine light and nothing on the iDrive console.

You wouldn't happen to have any sort of picture or diagram showing the connection to the vacuum pump would you? I removed the completely airbox today in hope of a clearer view but still couldn't make out where the connection would go.

[musclesmarinara75]

yes you do have codes!!... wow.. yeah that's alot, to get to the vacuum pump , after taking the airbox out, that intake manifold has to come off, the pump is by the HPFP.. I'll try to find you a pic

[Unspec]

RealOEM isn't always 100% accurate. For reference, the 2016 models in realOEM have it listed as well, and they're 100% for sure EWG cars.

I have a 9/14 car and don't have it as well. You're fine, it's meant to not be there. Clear codes and see what comes back, Bimmerlink doesn't differentiate between existing and stored codes.

[ntran90]

Originally Posted by Unspec

RealOEM isn't always 100% accurate. For reference, the 2016 models in realOEM have it listed as well, and they're 100% for sure EWG cars.

I have a 9/14 car and don't have it as well. You're fine, it's meant to not be there. Clear codes and see what comes back, Bimmerlink doesn't differentiate between existing and stored codes.

Does your N55 look like mine? Opening completely uncovered?

[Unspec]

Yes

[ntran90]

Originally Posted by Unspec

Yes

Appreciate the feedback.

[ctcarbonari]

I have a 2015 535i (10/14 Production Date) and don't have it as well.

I do, however, have some of the same codes as you (pulled from Bimmerlink as well)
Specifically, the "misfire 3&4, multiple cylinders, harmful to exhaust" ones.

I've never been able to clear these with Bimmerlink!
I've installed new spark plugs & ignition coils (maintenance). I've never noticed a misfire and I've monitored the cylinders for misfire on multiple occasions (w/Bimmerlink).
I'm assuming these are old stored codes in "Info Memory" (Bimmerlink terms)

I've owned the car for about 10k miles and these codes have always been there.

My apologies for highjacking this thread a bit, but.....

Does Bimmerlink have limitations on the codes it can/can't clear?
Am I missing something, like slight misfires on startup that are unnoticable?
Do I need to get INPA or ISTA setup to clear these codes or at least diagnose them?

I thought I read somewhere once that Bimmerlink can't clear codes if they are emmissions related but have no idea if that is true.

Any input or feedback would be greatly appreciated!!!

[ntran90]

Originally Posted by ctcarbonari

I have a 2015 535i (10/14 Production Date) and don't have it as well.

I do, however, have some of the same codes as you (pulled from Bimmerlink as well)
Specifically, the "misfire 3&4, multiple cylinders, harmful to exhaust" ones.

I've never been able to clear these with Bimmerlink!
I've installed new spark plugs & ignition coils (maintenance). I've never noticed a misfire and I've monitored the cylinders for misfire on multiple occasions (w/Bimmerlink).
I'm assuming these are old stored codes in "Info Memory" (Bimmerlink terms)

I've owned the car for about 10k miles and these codes have always been there.

My apologies for highjacking this thread a bit, but.....

Does Bimmerlink have limitations on the codes it can/can't clear?
Am I missing something, like slight misfires on startup that are unnoticable?
Do I need to get INPA or ISTA setup to clear these codes or at least diagnose them?

I thought I read somewhere once that Bimmerlink can't clear codes if they are emmissions related but have no idea if that is true.

Any input or feedback would be greatly appreciated!!!

So to be completely honest with you I've only recently gotten into DIY car maintenance so I'm unsure on Bimmerlink's capabilities. I was originally planning on going with Carly but was turned off by it after I found out they charged an annual fee.

Do you ever experience a rough startup? A while back I had to get new fuel injectors and a catalytic converter (the injectors failed while I was driving to work and caused a horrible misfire, and I mistakenly opted not to get a tow and slowly drove the car home which caused the catalytic converter to go with injectors).

After I got new injectors, catalytic converter, and spark plugs the misfire went away but ever since then I've noticed that I would often get a pretty rough startup. As soon as I start the car the RPM would jump close to 2000 RPM and would sometimes bounce up and down, with very noticeable vibrations but after about 10 seconds or so it would calm down.

I've driven close to 20K miles since replacing the injectors and catalytic converter with no errors present on iDrive and no check engine light.

[ctcarbonari]

I experience a rough startup approximately once every 3-4 weeks (always on a cold start and my car is a daily driver). Similar to what you're describing @ noticable vibration initially, dies down in ~10 secs but I've never experienced a significan't rpm jump. Typically it stays in the 1000-1100 range.

We're you able to clear your "Misfire Cylinder 3 & 4, multiple, etc" related errors with Bimmerlink?

I've been a 1st time BMW owner for about 8 months now.
I purchased Bimmerlink & Bimmercode to help "get going" with DIY diagnostics. I figured those 2 apps were "Stupid Simple" enough to get me going and I wouldn't mess anything up with coding.

I have to say, that for the price (~$35 each) they have more than paid for themselves already. I keep an OBDLink CX plugged in 24/7 and can use the dashboard feature on Bimmerlink to monitor readings anytime I want (like coolant temp, transmission temp, boost pressure, oil pressure, etc).

BimmerCode was worth the $35 purely for the ability to kill the startup nag screen and the annoying constant seatbelt warning tone!

[ntran90]

Originally Posted by ctcarbonari

I experience a rough startup approximately once every 3-4 weeks (always on a cold start and my car is a daily driver). Similar to what you're describing @ noticable vibration initially, dies down in ~10 secs but I've never experienced a significan't rpm jump. Typically it stays in the 1000-1100 range.

We're you able to clear your "Misfire Cylinder 3 & 4, multiple, etc" related errors with Bimmerlink?

I've been a 1st time BMW owner for about 8 months now.
I purchased Bimmerlink & Bimmercode to help "get going" with DIY diagnostics. I figured those 2 apps were "Stupid Simple" enough to get me going and I wouldn't mess anything up with coding.

I have to say, that for the price (~$35 each) they have more than paid for themselves already. I keep an OBDLink CX plugged in 24/7 and can use the dashboard feature on Bimmerlink to monitor readings anytime I want (like coolant temp, transmission temp, boost pressure, oil pressure, etc).

BimmerCode was worth the $35 purely for the ability to kill the startup nag screen and the annoying constant seatbelt warning tone!

I’m in the same boat, wasn’t able to clear misfire codes using BimmerLink. I’m going to try changing the plugs and ignition coils but based on your experience I’ll probably need to continue down the rabbit hole.

[ctcarbonari]

Plugs & Coils are definitely worth saving the money by DIY. Not too difficult but the #6 is a bit challenging to get access. The 3 torx bolts on the passenger side to break the wiring harness free are a PITA to access.

Everyone says the crankcase vent hose is the tough removal piece without breaking but I disconnected mine at the bolted side (instead of the 4 clip plastic hose side) and it came loose just fine.

Good Luck and have fun!

[ntran90]

Originally Posted by ctcarbonari

Plugs & Coils are definitely worth saving the money by DIY. Not too difficult but the #6 is a bit challenging to get access. The 3 torx bolts on the passenger side to break the wiring harness free are a PITA to access.

Everyone says the crankcase vent hose is the tough removal piece without breaking but I disconnected mine at the bolted side (instead of the 4 clip plastic hose side) and it came loose just fine.

Good Luck and have fun!

Appreciate the heads up! Yea I've seen some of the other folks on YouTube remove that vent hose like the way you did and that definitely seems like the way to go.

Keep an eye on your fuel injectors - not sure if it's a common problem with the N55 or if mine were just a fluke. Gonna be avoiding off-brand gasoline in the future and sticking to Top Tier just to be safe (not even sure if this is a thing or just a myth tbh ).

[Anwar1995]

Hello OP,

have you cleared your 3&4 cylinder misfires or at least found out the culprit of it?

Me and another user in the forum are having issues regarding misfires on those specific cylinders and its yet to be solved. It only occurs when the vehicle is fully warm and after shutting down the engine then start it up again. it would misfire for a while then throw a CEL with a drivetrain malfunction issue.

I am looking at anything that can help us to diagnose this headache of an issue..