[FrannieMoral2017]

Wondering what type of oil everyone uses. Just had the N63 replacement. Used Castrol Oil on every vehicle I've ever owned but I read a post (pretty heated) talking about LiquiMoly and other Euro types. Lmk!

[mediocrechris]

I had the stealership change my oil today. $120. Once the CPO warranty ends, I'll be doing my own oil changes and save about 50%

I say all this because I need to learn which type of oil to put in my 535ix

[FrannieMoral2017]

Originally Posted by mediocrechris

I had the stealership change my oil today. $120. Once the CPO warranty ends, I'll be doing my own oil changes and save about 50%

I say all this because I need to learn which type of oil to put in my 535ix

From what I'm seeing on FCP euro, 10qts of Liqui Moly is like $95.00 USD. I'm just curious as to what everyone uses. If I don't get a response I'll probably just switch to BMW Logo Brand.

[Sophisticated Redneck]

Originally Posted by FrannieMoral2017

Wondering what type of oil everyone uses. Just had the N63 replacement. Used Castrol Oil on every vehicle I've ever owned but I read a post (pretty heated) talking about LiquiMoly and other Euro types. Lmk!

Used to use Castrol too, grew up with it...that was untll I started burning a quart ever 150 miles.. yes 150 miles...thought I burned up the rings or something...turned out to be clogged turbo oil return lines from coked up oil, I don't think Castro does so good with the extreme temps the n63 runs at. Switched to liqui moly with their moly additive, now at 150,000 miles. And I drive the hell out of this rig, I live in AZ and do 110+ on our desolate freeways in the middle of the night (nobody else is around and helps me stay awake....lol) for 20-30+ min at a time.

I Just borscoped the cylinders, so far look excellent, about to remove the cams (doing valve guide seals) and everything looks excellent under the valve cover. Reccomend you switch, the cylinder walls were some of the cleanest I have ever seen, especially in an engine with 150k on it. I expect the cam bearings to be in excellent shape too, will post pics tomorrow when I pull them.

BTW, 74 dollars for 10 liters and run 5-40 on this engine. DO NOT run the 5-30 crap or whatever is reccomend.. the N63 is in my X5, pushing 5300 lbs with AWD with the drag coefficient of a truck will work any engine...so if I can get 150k out of mine on an X5 with the way I drive using an n63, I think it says something about the oil...

Reccomend:
https://www.amazon.com/Liqui-Moly-23...=liquim&sr=8-3

And add 1.5 of these:
https://www.amazon.com/Liqui-Moly-20...gateway&sr=8-1

[EL Jeffe 5]

Originally Posted by mediocrechris

I had the stealership change my oil today. $120. Once the CPO warranty ends, I'll be doing my own oil changes and save about 50%

I say all this because I need to learn which type of oil to put in my 535ix

Not worth saving $40 $50 bucks
I know when I take my car they will check for potential issues
And that's worth the money you pay for oil change

[FrannieMoral2017]

Originally Posted by Sophisticated Redneck

Used to use Castrol too, grew up with it...that was untll I started burning a quart ever 150 miles.. yes 150 miles...thought I burned up the rings or something...turned out to be clogged turbo oil return lines from coked up oil, I don't think Castro does so good with the extreme temps the n63 runs at. Switched to liqui moly with their moly additive, now at 150,000 miles. And I drive the hell out of this rig, I live in AZ and do 110+ on our desolate freeways in the middle of the night (nobody else is around and helps me stay awake....lol) for 20-30+ min at a time.

I Just borscoped the cylinders, so far look excellent, about to remove the cams (doing valve guide seals) and everything looks excellent under the valve cover. Reccomend you switch, the cylinder walls were some of the cleanest I have ever seen, especially in an engine with 150k on it. I expect the cam bearings to be in excellent shape too, will post pics tomorrow when I pull them.

BTW, 74 dollars for 10 liters and run 5-40 on this engine. DO NOT run the 5-30 crap or whatever is reccomend.. the N63 is in my X5, pushing 5300 lbs with AWD with the drag coefficient of a truck will work any engine...so if I can get 150k out of mine on an X5 with the way I drive using an n63, I think it says something about the oil...

Reccomend:
https://www.amazon.com/Liqui-Moly-23...uim&sr=8-3

And add 1.5 of these:
https://www.amazon.com/Liqui-Moly-20...way&sr=8-1

Thanks bub! Getting close to the first 500mi for the swap. Just wanting to get my bearings on the Euro Types!

[FrannieMoral2017]

Originally Posted by EL Jeffe 5

Not worth saving $40 $50 bucks
I know when I take my car they will check for potential issues
And that's worth the money you pay for oil change

It's not hard to check for oil leaks yourself and anyone with any mechanical experience at all can tell the difference from clean or contaminated oil. Look at suspension while you're under her and check for rust. Should be good.

[EL Jeffe 5]

Originally Posted by FrannieMoral2017

It's not hard to check for oil leaks yourself and anyone with any mechanical experience at all can tell the difference from clean or contaminated oil. Look at suspension while you're under her and check for rust. Should be good.

Lots of people can change oil no issues
Lots of people think they can change oil and screw up their engines in no time.
A specially when it comes to oil filters
Manny would just go to local auto zone and get $20 filter thinking it's same thing it's not
At least N63 engines after market filters failing and blowing engines due to after market filters.
I guess what I'm trying to say know what your doing and parts you need to use.

[FrannieMoral2017]

Originally Posted by EL Jeffe 5

Lots of people can change oil no issues
Lots of people think they can change oil and screw up their engines in no time.
A specially when it comes to oil filters
Manny would just go to local auto zone and get $20 filter thinking it's same thing it's not
At least N63 engines after market filters failing and blowing engines due to after market filters.
I guess what I'm trying to say know what your doing and parts you need to use.

Oh I intended on ordering a BMW oil filter like I have b4. Just wanted to know the oil types everyone is using in their cars. As said b4 there's a post I believe I read somewhere in 3 series talking about oil. Got heated fast bunch of science thrown around and hurt feeling over Genuine BMW Oil, BMW approved and after market. Just want to get my bearings on what to use.

[EL Jeffe 5]

Originally Posted by FrannieMoral2017

Oh I intended on ordering a BMW oil filter like I have b4. Just wanted to know the oil types everyone is using in their cars. As said b4 there's a post I believe I read somewhere in 3 series talking about oil. Got heated fast bunch of science thrown around and hurt feeling over Genuine BMW Oil, BMW approved and after market. Just want to get my bearings on what to use.

This is true it is science
Keeping engine healthy for long time
You must use appropriate oil
Engineers are not idiots they just don't throw a dart on oil wall and say let's just use any oil.
When engine is designed they develop appropriate formula for that engine and metals they use in that engine.

[FrannieMoral2017]

Originally Posted by EL Jeffe 5

This is true it is science
Keeping engine healthy for long time
You must use appropriate oil
Engineers are not idiots they just don't throw a dart on oil wall and say let's just use any oil.
When engine is designed they develop appropriate formula for that engine and metals they use in that engine.

Agreed. That's why I use BMW Brand or approved. As I've read though there's oils out there rated and engineered better than BMW brand and approved Oil. They just didn't pay BMW cash money to get the approval stamp.

[ezaircon4jc]

Originally Posted by EL Jeffe 5

Lots of people can change oil no issues
Lots of people think they can change oil and screw up their engines in no time.
Especially when it comes to oil filters
Manny would just go to local auto zone and get $20 filter thinking it's same thing it's not
At least N63 engines after market filters failing and blowing engines due to after market filters.
I guess what I'm trying to say know what your doing and parts you need to use.

Yeah... IMHO this guy's a hack in a big way! Check out the collapsed filter at about 4:55...

If this is an example of how 2nd and later owners treat their BMW's it's no wonder they break-down "often" and then they complain and give BMW a bad reputation!

[EL Jeffe 5]

Originally Posted by ezaircon4jc

Yeah... IMHO this guy's a hack in a big way! Check out the collapsed filter at about 4:55...

If this is an example of how 2nd and later owners treat their BMW's it's no wonder they break-down "often" and then they complain and give BMW a bad reputation!

Just what I was talking about thanks for posting this.
I never understood people paying high dollar for stuff and not taking care of it
Spending g 50k+ for car and not wanting to spend $150 for oil change or
Buying expensive dress shirt and just washing it in regular washer not paying $7 for dry clean.

[FrannieMoral2017]

Originally Posted by EL Jeffe 5

Just what I was talking about thanks for posting this.
I never understood people paying high dollar for stuff and not taking care of it
Spending g 50k+ for car and not wanting to spend $150 for oil change or
Buying expensive dress shirt and just washing it in regular washer not paying $7 for dry clean.

Agreed completely. These cars and engines are designed for certain quality products and better.

[FrannieMoral2017]

Originally Posted by Sophisticated Redneck

Used to use Castrol too, grew up with it...that was untll I started burning a quart ever 150 miles.. yes 150 miles...thought I burned up the rings or something...turned out to be clogged turbo oil return lines from coked up oil, I don't think Castro does so good with the extreme temps the n63 runs at. Switched to liqui moly with their moly additive, now at 150,000 miles. And I drive the hell out of this rig, I live in AZ and do 110+ on our desolate freeways in the middle of the night (nobody else is around and helps me stay awake....lol) for 20-30+ min at a time.

I Just borscoped the cylinders, so far look excellent, about to remove the cams (doing valve guide seals) and everything looks excellent under the valve cover. Reccomend you switch, the cylinder walls were some of the cleanest I have ever seen, especially in an engine with 150k on it. I expect the cam bearings to be in excellent shape too, will post pics tomorrow when I pull them.

BTW, 74 dollars for 10 liters and run 5-40 on this engine. DO NOT run the 5-30 crap or whatever is reccomend.. the N63 is in my X5, pushing 5300 lbs with AWD with the drag coefficient of a truck will work any engine...so if I can get 150k out of mine on an X5 with the way I drive using an n63, I think it says something about the oil...

Reccomend:
https://www.amazon.com/Liqui-Moly-23...=liquim&sr=8-3

And add 1.5 of these:
https://www.amazon.com/Liqui-Moly-20...gateway&sr=8-1

Did you ever get pictures of those parts? Secondly how do you (or anyone for that matter that uses it) feel about the 5W-40 Liqui Moly Molygen. Im reading that it has the BMW LL01. So its nice to know its BMW approved and that in itself is convincing enough to use that imo. Do you use their Oil Filters as well? Like stated before and seen that aftermarket filter was hella collapsed. I'm going to switch to the 5W-40 Liqui Moly Molygen because of the LL-01 but will most likely continue to use the BMW filters until I find something that can convince me to do different. Figured oil changed every 2500mi should keep her in good shape. Btw have you don't your transmission fluid yet? Read a post on the Forum about someone who did it at 136k, I don't think ima role the dice like that though. Most likely an every 20k thing for me.

[kohsin]

Anyone tried the new M1 super synthetic euro 5w40 yet? It is specs the LL01. I couldn't find it in the state so I put an inquiry and below is the response
Thank you for writing us here at Mobil. Mobil Super Synthetic Euro 5W-40 is available in the US. It can be a little difficult to track down. Let me supply you with a few part numbers, which you can take to a local auto retailer and have ordered for you, if you have trouble finding it..For a case of 6, 1L bottles-124839 and for a 6 gallon box the part number is 124840.

[Sophisticated Redneck]

Originally Posted by FrannieMoral2017

Did you ever get pictures of those parts? Secondly how do you (or anyone for that matter that uses it) feel about the 5W-40 Liqui Moly Molygen. Im reading that it has the BMW LL01. So its nice to know its BMW approved and that in itself is convincing enough to use that imo. Do you use their Oil Filters as well? Like stated before and seen that aftermarket filter was hella collapsed. I'm going to switch to the 5W-40 Liqui Moly Molygen because of the LL-01 but will most likely continue to use the BMW filters until I find something that can convince me to do different. Figured oil changed every 2500mi should keep her in good shape. Btw have you don't your transmission fluid yet? Read a post on the Forum about someone who did it at 136k, I don't think ima role the dice like that though. Most likely an every 20k thing for me.

I will post them up later today as I will have the Cams off by tonight, below is a pic with the valve cover off as teaser . As for Molygen, you cant go wrong with either, both are BMW LL01 certified, I believe the Molygen already has thew Mos2 additive in it but you might want to research that more if you decide to use it over the High-Tech.

As for oil filter recommend Mahle. Wix are ok to use if you Cant get a Mahle. I change every 5K or so but I also drive an average 40K a year...

I did the Tranny at 100K as I didnt know any better at the time, BMW says lifetime but that their marketing BS. I spoke to ZF directly, they recommend around 70K to do oil. I think 20K is overkill personally unless you are tracking the car but not going to hurt anything, just expensive. Reset your adaptations and do the relearning procedure if you do your tranny oil, alot of people skip that and ZF recommends it. I will do a video on it when I do mine in the next week or so

[Sophisticated Redneck]

After seeing how much carbon funk buildup there was on the valves, pistons, and combustion chambers, I decided to just pull the heads and clean everything up proper. You can see though the great shape the cam bearing surfaces are in the head and cylinder walls for an engine with 150K on it (and this is in an X5, so its like an N63 from an F10 towing a 1200lb trailer all its life!). Valve guides have very little play in them also so I will be able to get away with just new seals, pretty amazing for this many miles, I was expecting them to be pretty worn out. Again highly recommend the LiquiMoly 5-40 with Mos2 additive mixed in

[FrannieMoral2017]

Originally Posted by Sophisticated Redneck

After seeing how much carbon funk buildup there was on the valves, pistons, and combustion chambers, I decided to just pull the heads and clean everything up proper. You can see though the great shape the cam bearing surfaces are in the head and cylinder walls for an engine with 150K on it (and this is in an X5, so its like an N63 from an F10 towing a 1200lb trailer all its life!). Valve guides have very little play in them also so I will be able to get away with just new seals, pretty amazing for this many miles, I was expecting them to be pretty worn out. Again highly recommend the LiquiMoly 5-40 with Mos2 additive mixed in

Those things a ridiculous clean for the miles. I'm noticing your doing this while the motors still in the bay. How hard is that? I've been dreading when I'm going to have to drop the block in order to replace the valve stems in about 50k (BMW wants 8k to do that) but you're doing while she's in the bay like that!? Maybe make a video on the rebuild? And yea most definitely going to use the Liqui Moly. I've been forum searching and it's the most appraised! I'd also like to thank you for the insight man! Really appreciate it.

[Sophisticated Redneck]

Originally Posted by FrannieMoral2017

Those things a ridiculous clean for the miles. I'm noticing your doing this while the motors still in the bay. How hard is that? I've been dreading when I'm going to have to drop the block in order to replace the valve stems in about 50k (BMW wants 8k to do that) but you're doing while she's in the bay like that!? Maybe make a video on the rebuild? And yea most definitely going to use the Liqui Moly. I've been forum searching and it's the most appraised! I'd also like to thank you for the insight man! Really appreciate it.

Thanks! Happy to help I wish I had a lift but garage is not tall enough so have to do everything while its still in the car. So if you dont have access to a lift, then just doing the valve guide seals isnt to awful, you need to get the special tool kits from AGA to do it. Jump on youtube and do a search for "n63 valve guide seal" and you will see some instruction videos on it along with a video of one guy doing it in his X5 from start to finish. Its about a 40 hour job though but you can do it all yourself and if you dont want to spend the 2 grand in special tools, you can just rent them off ebay.

You dont have to pull the heads unless you want to do a full carbon-cleanup. I tried taking just the intake manifold off but noway to get it to clear the steering rack in the X5 (F10 may have more room) and when I saw the combustion chambers, I decided to just pull the heads. It will add about 400 dollars to the cost if you decide to pull the heads, all the head bolts have to be renewed and the head gaskets, intake gaskets, exhaust gaskets, turbo gaskets, etc. You will also need a borescope, some special hook tools, and zen-like levels of patience to pull the heads in-car as there is a wire harness attached to the bottom of the intake that goes to the knock sensors that must be unhooked before you can pull the head and took me hours to get free. Don't recommend pulling the head in-car unless you have no other choice.

I am only going this far as I am prepping this engine to pushed as hard as it can be, learn from it if I nuke it, then apply that knowledge when I do a full rebuild. I am replacing everything I can think of that gets in the way when the N63's with this much mileage on it are pushed hard (coils, plugs, injectors, HPFP's, pressure regulators, O2 sensors, etc (already did the turbos)