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      05-24-2020, 08:54 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lsturbointeg View Post
If I'm putting a cf cover over the SAT is there really a need for me to get the ceramic version over the standard?
I have no reason to think so, you would just be covering the ceramic! Might as well cover the cheaper silver.
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      05-24-2020, 09:16 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Themarkymark View Post
I have no reason to think so, you would just be covering the ceramic! Might as well cover the cheaper silver.
well shoot! i may have to do this next than just to confirm this is straight plug and play correct? no coding needed
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      05-24-2020, 10:13 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lsturbointeg View Post
well shoot! i may have to do this next than just to confirm this is straight plug and play correct? no coding needed
Yes. The only coding I need when I did this on our 2012 was to get the paddles to work correctly.
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      05-25-2020, 10:03 AM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lsturbointeg View Post
well shoot! i may have to do this next than just to confirm this is straight plug and play correct? no coding needed
Correct, it will plug and play. However, if you haven’t already coded SAT, I recommend it.
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      05-25-2020, 02:52 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Themarkymark View Post
Correct, it will plug and play. However, if you haven’t already coded SAT, I recommend it.
don't have paddles. SAT recommended in regards to what? just covering all my basis
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      05-25-2020, 05:16 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lsturbointeg View Post
don't have paddles. SAT recommended in regards to what? just covering all my basis
You would have Sport+ and launch control, I don’t believe you need the paddles to execute that.
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      06-03-2020, 07:27 PM   #29
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Found a P3 gauge pre-installed in a vent for an absolute deal. It literally look me all of 10 minutes to install. I just ordered the OBD hardwire adapter so I can keep the OBD port open and run this gauge at the same time.

Also threw in an AFE 5R drop-in filter and got my NGK 97506s, all gapped starts 0.022" ready to go. Taking her in for an oil change tomorrow, then I'd like to change the transmission fluid finally ahead of putting in the downpipe and reflashing it.
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      06-03-2020, 11:37 PM   #30
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How much does that gauge run?
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      06-04-2020, 08:10 AM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lsturbointeg View Post
How much does that gauge run?
The analog retails for $269/469 (without and with the OEM vent) and the OBD2 model retails for $489/599.

I paid about $190 for mine (OBD2 model) brand new and pre-installed in a vent. While that was apparently a mistake, the company has the model I purchased listed for $410 which is still a rather good deal so if anyone is interested let me know and I’ll send the link.
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      06-08-2020, 05:21 PM   #32
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Being at 5 miles to empty and a nice day, I thought it would be time to install the Walbro/Ti 450. Standard modern fuel pump experience. I thought it was crazy how much sand was on top of the hat, remnants of living in Nevada.

No issues having let it idle in my driveway. About to go put a little more gas in and go for a longer drive.
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      06-09-2020, 04:10 PM   #33
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Since I've had this M5 wheel for sale for a while with very little interest, I decided to go ahead and have it refinished by my local Fibrenew guy.

Looks so fresh now. Still hunting for the right deal on a mint LCI wheel but this will do for now.
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      06-11-2020, 10:25 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Themarkymark View Post
Since I've had this M5 wheel for sale for a while with very little interest, I decided to go ahead and have it refinished by my local Fibrenew guy.

Looks so fresh now. Still hunting for the right deal on a mint LCI wheel but this will do for now.
Looks nice!! The stitching is mint!

I'm waiting on my LCI wheel to arrive. Reading up on this all, if you were to connect it up to your car, the M Mode buttons wouldn't work would they? or can you code them in?

My LCI wheel has blanks there so I think I need to get the additional buttons/module so that my Active Cruise to work. Issue is that I can only find new ones from the UK and it costs the same amount as my used LCI wheel
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      06-12-2020, 02:00 AM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Themarkymark View Post
Since I've had this M5 wheel for sale for a while with very little interest, I decided to go ahead and have it refinished by my local Fibrenew guy.

Looks so fresh now. Still hunting for the right deal on a mint LCI wheel but this will do for now.
How much did it cost?
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      06-12-2020, 02:35 AM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by asian View Post
Looks nice!! The stitching is mint!

I'm waiting on my LCI wheel to arrive. Reading up on this all, if you were to connect it up to your car, the M Mode buttons wouldn't work would they? or can you code them in?

My LCI wheel has blanks there so I think I need to get the additional buttons/module so that my Active Cruise to work. Issue is that I can only find new ones from the UK and it costs the same amount as my used LCI wheel
Thanks, a toothbrush and dish soap cleans the stitching up very nicely.

As for the M buttons, definitely can't use them for any M driving modes on non-M cars, would be interesting if they could be coded to do something else however.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ey2001 View Post
How much did it cost?
$100+tax. His prices start at $150 but I took him the wheel off the car with no rush needed so he hooked it up.
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      06-18-2020, 04:29 PM   #37
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Finally got the Evolution Racewerks downpipe and charge pipe installed. Also replaced my spark plugs with NGK 97506 gapped at 0.022".

The downpipe was a bear to install, and I'm not a green wrench - I'm pretty experienced with tight turbos having been a Audi tech in the past.

I chose the Evolution Racewerks DP because of the flex section and retention of OEM mounts, but I wish I had just ignored the mounts lol.

I also had to abandon the project last night when I just could not get the downpipe to seat in the factory midpipe. Ran up to Harbor Freight this morning, bought a cheap tailpipe expander and was able to stretch the midpipe out and slide the downpipe right in.

Very noticeable difference between MHD Stage 1 and 2+, but naturally, still wanting more.
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      06-26-2020, 08:53 PM   #38
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Headlights were looking pretty dang pitted, another product of Nevada: the sand left its mark.

Decided to clean them up today. Wet sanded starting at 600 grit all the way up to 3000 to get as much of the pitting out.

Then I used my Torq 22D (love this thing) and V36 cutting compound with a medium pad and V38 polishing compound with a light pad to bring the shine back.

The results were nicer than I was hoping for. To keep them crisp, I applied clear Lamin-X that was an absolute pain to lay flat. I have a little moisture that needs to cure out of the Lamin-X but I think they will look great in a few days when that cures.
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Last edited by Themarkymark; 06-26-2020 at 09:21 PM..
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      06-26-2020, 09:12 PM   #39
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Nice revamp of the lights.

You should get them PPF'd to protect them! I would recommend a mate but I'm in Australia
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      06-26-2020, 09:20 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by asian View Post
Nice revamp of the lights.

You should get them PPF'd to protect them! I would recommend a mate but I'm in Australia
Thanks! I did. That what Lamin-X is, a thick PPF.
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      06-27-2020, 05:20 AM   #41
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Thanks! I did. That what Lamin-X is, a thick PPF.
Ohhhhh no shite! Hell good
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