[ezaircon4jc]

Originally Posted by xxpanipuri

I'm not planning on selling it for a few more years...

Ideally i want to replace it with something that has more cylinders and older

and a GOOD electric car as a DD (IE NOT TESLA)


She's back down to driving only on longer freeway trips...within the bay area...

Just wait until the black/brown-outs and said EV can't be charged...

[Unspec]

Originally Posted by ezaircon4jc

Just wait until the black/brown-outs and said EV can't be charged...

I mean, if there's no power to charge an EV, there's no power to run the pumps at the gas stations, so...

[ezaircon4jc]

Originally Posted by Unspec

I mean, if there's no power to charge an EV, there's no power to run the pumps at the gas stations, so...

Ahhhhh... but I have enough gas in my tank to get me where I need to go without any range anxiety.

[ChiltiCoatl89]

Spooky special detail, at the Local VIP Auto detailer.

Hand wash, then decontamination, full clay bar, blow dried, followed by Ceramic pro coating, also applied in particular to the windows as well.

First full Year in the Nevada highland desert, and it not being garaged as often has definitely put a toll on the Paint and clear coat.

Still however, it shines mighty fine!

[n3985]

Randomly found this alcantara covered center console on eBay with M tri-stitch.

[zener]

Bought new wheels for the next summer.

[Unspec]

Originally Posted by ezaircon4jc

Ahhhhh... but I have enough gas in my tank to get me where I need to go without any range anxiety.

Not to actually start a debate, but EV's have a much higher chance of having a full charge at the start of a blackout compared to cars. Unless you regularly top your tank off after every drive, you're likely not going to be on a full tank at the start of a blackout, and so both gas and EV's realistically will have the same range. This is also ignoring the fact that there will likely be heavy traffic during mass blackouts due to everyone evac'ing the area, and EV's shine in stop and go traffic efficiency compared to gas cars.

[NikMN]

Already had first snow of the season. Time for winter wheels and tires

[zener]

Winter mode: on.

[zener]

Finished installing acc parts and got it working.

[jared21927]

New downstream O2 sensors. Had a rough idle for a few months, then finally got a code. Ordered off Amazon and changed in about an hour. Easy job with the O2 socket.

No idea why the OEM ones are $200+, but I paid $20 a piece and it's been perfect so far. No rough idle, gas mileage been great.... for a 550 at least

[Unspec]

Originally Posted by jared21927

New downstream O2 sensors. Had a rough idle for a few months, then finally got a code. Ordered off Amazon and changed in about an hour. Easy job with the O2 socket.

No idea why the OEM ones are $200+, but I paid $20 a piece and it's been perfect so far. No rough idle, gas mileage been great.... for a 550 at least

OE ones from Bosch are a more reasonable ~120.

I'd be a little sketched by $20 O2 sensors lol

[jared21927]

Originally Posted by Unspec

OE ones from Bosch are a more reasonable ~120.

I'd be a little sketched by $20 O2 sensors lol

I totally hear you, it does sound sketch lol, I just can't see the downside.

Worse case, it throws a code and I get another one. Spark plugs, coils, injectors, definitely don't cheap out, But an O2 sensor either works or doesn't.

If I have issues, I'll definitely be back here to tell everyone what not to buy lol. Have to share the wins and mistakes.

[15_bmw_535i]

I took on the endeavor of changing out the turbo oil feed and return line as well as the coolant lines, and had to drop the subframe and the turbo to get to the oil feed line. As well, I figured I would alos change out the engine mounts. If you have to do this, I highly recommend doing all the lines together. I originally tried doing the leaking ones first then move on to the rest later, but when I did that I ended having to do all of them together anyways after doing all the work, twice.

[Hoa]

Originally Posted by 15_bmw_535i

I took on the endeavor of changing out the turbo oil feed and return line as well as the coolant lines, and had to drop the subframe and the turbo to get to the oil feed line. As well, I figured I would alos change out the engine mounts. If you have to do this, I highly recommend doing all the lines together. I originally tried doing the leaking ones first then move on to the rest later, but when I did that I ended having to do all of them together anyways after doing all the work, twice.

Make sure you go ahead and do the oil pan gasket. It’s going to leak and this is the perfect time to do it.

[M_Bimmer]

Originally Posted by 15_bmw_535i

I took on the endeavor of changing out the turbo oil feed and return line as well as the coolant lines, and had to drop the subframe and the turbo to get to the oil feed line. As well, I figured I would alos change out the engine mounts. If you have to do this, I highly recommend doing all the lines together. I originally tried doing the leaking ones first then move on to the rest later, but when I did that I ended having to do all of them together anyways after doing all the work, twice.

15_bmw_535i, the oil on your subframe on the right side is from our turbo oil lines, why is there so much oil on the left?

Also, what made you decide to replace the motor mounts?

Deciding if it's worth change out the mounts...which I think mine are shot, as my engine shakes after it warms up.....and my oil pan is leaking all the way around the perimeter w/ only 53K on the odometer.

[15_bmw_535i]

Originally Posted by M_Bimmer

15_bmw_535i, the oil on your subframe on the right side is from our turbo oil lines, why is there so much oil on the left?

Also, what made you decide to replace the motor mounts?

Deciding if it's worth change out the mounts...which I think mine are shot, as my engine shakes after it warms up.....and my oil pan is leaking all the way around the perimeter w/ only 53K on the odometer.

The oil on the left is just from the turbo oil leak. It was leaking for a long time. And the choice of replacing the motor mounts was made when I got the subframe dropped I was looking for any sort of abnormal movement in any of my mounts/ joints, cuz I have a loud clunking sound from the driver side not related to the engine mounts and on my search for that I found the drivers side engine mount was completely shot. Like there was n rubber left inside the mount, idk if it has to do with the way I drive the car or the fact that the car has 150k miles on her but it was gone. So I replaced both of them.

[15_bmw_535i]

Originally Posted by Hoa

Make sure you go ahead and do the oil pan gasket. It’s going to leak and this is the perfect time to do it.

It’s not leaking right now, and if it does start to leak, I will be able to do this much faster next time. Plus I have already put it back together.

[Unspec]

Originally Posted by 15_bmw_535i

I took on the endeavor of changing out the turbo oil feed and return line as well as the coolant lines, and had to drop the subframe and the turbo to get to the oil feed line. As well, I figured I would alos change out the engine mounts. If you have to do this, I highly recommend doing all the lines together. I originally tried doing the leaking ones first then move on to the rest later, but when I did that I ended having to do all of them together anyways after doing all the work, twice.

Why the funky engine support setup? Was the standard spot where you thread in the tow hook not accessible?

[15_bmw_535i]

Originally Posted by Unspec

Why the funky engine support setup? Was the standard spot where you thread in the tow hook not accessible?

I could not find mine and could not find a suitable replacement in the time needed.

[Unspec]

Originally Posted by 15_bmw_535i

I could not find mine and could not find a suitable replacement in the time needed.

-1hp of damage moment haha

[s_ribs]

Last week...

Decon wash. The hood wasn't beading water anymore and acting like the DIY Detail Graphene coating had failed. Turns out it was clogged up. Used an Iron Remover and then a two-step wash. CarPro Descale (let it sit as long as I could without it drying) definitely did the trick, but I followed this up with CarPro Reset for good measure. Glad the coating is still working but bummer it seems to clog up. Just need to add a decon wash every few months.

Snow tires installed. Usually run Blizzak's but I decided to go with Continental Viking 7. Love everything else Conti makes and their rebate didn't hurt!

Last, took advantage of Apex Wheel holiday sale and ordered my summer wheels. Went with EC-7's in Race Silver (too bad gold isn't an option), 19x9 et30 all around.

And took a picture this morning, because pics make all posts better.