[ramman434]

So my '16 535 no longer chirps when I lock/unlock, but still flashes the lights. I have it coded to do so in BimmerCode and my settings are all checked off to do this.

I just tried hitting my panic button, and my tail lights lit up, without blinking, and there was no alarm sound.
I've been having issues the past 2 months where my car would randomly have the alarm going off, no faults shown (ONLY HAPPENS AT WORK, never anywhere else). I figured that might be the hood sensor (located behind the driver's headlight) and tried pushing that back into position, but it still keeps happening.

I have no idea what's going on. I saw on the F15 forums, someone had a similar thing, and discovered it was a bad fuse (for not having an alarm chirp). I looked at my fuses, but honestly can't tell if there's anything wrong with them, as the caps look fine.

Any ideas?!

[ezaircon4jc]

Originally Posted by ramman434

So my '16 535 no longer chirps when I lock/unlock, but still flashes the lights. I have it coded to do so in BimmerCode and my settings are all checked off to do this.

I just tried hitting my panic button, and my tail lights lit up, without blinking, and there was no alarm sound.
I've been having issues the past 2 months where my car would randomly have the alarm going off, no faults shown (ONLY HAPPENS AT WORK, never anywhere else). I figured that might be the hood sensor (located behind the driver's headlight) and tried pushing that back into position, but it still keeps happening.

I have no idea what's going on. I saw on the F15 forums, someone had a similar thing, and discovered it was a bad fuse (for not having an alarm chirp). I looked at my fuses, but honestly can't tell if there's anything wrong with them, as the caps look fine.

Any ideas?!

Long, long shot, but how's the battery? Do you have Comfort Access? If so, any issues with that?

[ramman434]

Originally Posted by ezaircon4jc

Long, long shot, but how's the battery? Do you have Comfort Access? If so, any issues with that?

Brand new battery and C/A

[BurrNinja]

Theres an option on idrive that can disable the sound. Check that.

[ramman434]

Yeah I did that already. Checked it off, then unchecked, and checked it again. Still no chirp. It's also weird that my alarm will randomly set off at work, but now there's not even an alarm sound.

[ezaircon4jc]

Any issues with the CA? All the doors locking correctly?

[ramman434]

Yeah everything works as it should, just no chirp or alarm sound. Is it possible the fuse for my siren is bad? How can I tell?

I've been avoiding downloading the BimmerLink app to pull possible codes, but maybe I'll just have to do that.

[Trian]

Originally Posted by ramman434

. Is it possible the fuse for my siren is bad? How can I tell?

Pull up the fuse list, figure out which one(s) it might be --- and change out. Trail and error. I think all BMWs come with extra fuses.

[EL Jeffe 5]

Was battery programmed at time of install

[ramman434]

Originally Posted by EL Jeffe 5

Was battery programmed at time of install

No it wasn't (PPI showed it was a new battery without coding), but I had the battery programmed when I bought the car.

[wcr3d]

Have you searched through newtis.info?

[M_Bimmer]

The horn, mounted in the right rear fender well, is known to go bad. It looks like a round cylinder/thick hockey puck.

While I believe it has a battery inside, others have said that the circuit card goes bad, but trying to address either aren't worth cracking it open to fix.

P/N: 65759493759 (use this on realoem or newTIS.info will provide you more information)



Good luck.

[ramman434]

Originally Posted by M_Bimmer

The horn, mounted in the right rear fender well, is known to go bad. It looks like a round cylinder/thick hockey puck.

While I believe it has a battery inside, others have said that the circuit card goes bad, but trying to address either aren't worth cracking it open to fix.

P/N: 65759493759 (use this on realoem or newTIS.info will provide you more information)

Thank you! I'll definitely take a look!

[ramman434]

Finally got a chance to look at this horn/siren piece that M_Bimmer mentioned. Looks to be a $200 part tucked up under the passenger's side rear fender well. I'm not sure when I'll have the time to physically look at it in the next couple of weeks.

It appears that I may just be able to remove the rear wheel and pull back the plastic fender liner. Can anyone confirm this?

[Qsilver7]

Originally Posted by ramman434

...It appears that I may just be able to remove the rear wheel and pull back the plastic fender liner. Can anyone confirm this?

I recommend pulling up the removal instructions which can probably be found on the TIS website. Just go to https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/ and type in the last 7 digits of your VIN...then type "remove alarm siren" or "remove power siren" into the search box. You should get a list of results with one of them being a link to removing the siren.

Take note of any PRELIMINARY work links (on the site) that may be required to sucessfully remove the siren.

[ramman434]

Thanks. I'm going to try the fuses 1st, as I have time to do that in just a couple of seconds. It should be a couple of 5amp fuses in the trunk's fuse box. I'll let ya'll know if that works so if anyone has this issue down the road...

[BMWgunship]

[QUOTE=ramman434;26264381]So my '16 535 no longer chirps when I lock/unlock, but still flashes the lights. I have it coded to do so in BimmerCode and my settings are all checked off to do this.

I just tried hitting my panic button, and my tail lights lit up, without blinking, and there was no alarm sound.
I've been having issues the past 2 months where my car would randomly have the alarm going off, no faults shown (ONLY HAPPENS AT WORK, never anywhere else). I figured that might be the hood sensor (located behind the driver's headlight) and tried pushing that back into position, but it still keeps happening.

I have no idea what's going on. I saw on the F15 forums, someone had a similar thing, and discovered it was a bad fuse (for not having an alarm chirp). I looked at my fuses, but honestly can't tell if there's anything wrong with them, as the caps look fine.

Any ideas?


F10 Alarm not setting, no beep, no light flashing

My 2016 F10 went into the dealer with an alarm issue. The doors would lock and unlock without issue. However, the alarm would not arm. No confirmation acoustical sound. No single or double headlight confirmation flash. Rear view mirror red "nose" light would not blink.

I troubleshooted and the fuse was NOT blown. The setting was activated in IDrive. The doors, trunk and hood were all closed and not ajar. But the lights and sound was missing.

Results:

The dealer determined that "Fault for power management reduction or shutdown due to individual electrical consumer."

The Fix:

Charging the battery, performed battery energy diagnosis, programming/encoding control units and finally programmed vehicle. It took a few hours and voila the system is back online and functioning as it should.

[BMWgunship]

I asked the dealer what did "Fault for power management reduction or shutdown due to individual electrical consumer" mean? The dealer replied that when the car senses that there is an electrical drain somewhere, the car will deactivate certain components that draws power. I then asked the dealer that when the power stabilizes would the deactivated components come back online? Dealer replied "probably not, it will need to be coded again." I asked if there were any mitigating steps to prevent the power draw, the dealer said to turn everything off before you shut the car off.

[ramman434]

Originally Posted by BMWgunship

I asked the dealer what did "Fault for power management reduction or shutdown due to individual electrical consumer" mean? The dealer replied that when the car senses that there is an electrical drain somewhere, the car will deactivate certain components that draws power. I then asked the dealer that when the power stabilizes would the deactivated components come back online? Dealer replied "probably not, it will need to be coded again." I asked if there were any mitigating steps to prevent the power draw, the dealer said to turn everything off before you shut the car off.

Thanks for the reply. I was just wondering if I reset with BimmerCode that it might work.
According to my 3rd party PPI in sept the battery was new with an estimated 15 mi on it, and hadn't been coded to the car properly.

Now I have had low charge icons pop up twice since then, but went away after I drove it around the city in Eco mode to charge a couple times

[BMWgunship]

After my car was reset, I had to drive it over a 100 miles to qualify for my state inspection. I was advised that the re-coding erased all my stored data and memory. So I think the dealer may have gone with a comprehensive reset.

Not sure if the Bimmercode app would be able to replicate the coding done at the dealer. If that doesn't work get it to the dealer if you have remaining warranty.

[ramman434]

So just a quick update for all. I had just gotten to work and locked my car, and got into my office. My coworker says he can see my alarm going off on the security cameras. I go outside, and sure enough, the alarm is audible and chirping again.

1st time I've actually heard it chirp in about a month. Chirps when I unlock/lock it again. It then goes off less than 2 min later, and I have to go unlock it again. I've obviously got a gremlin somewhere.

I haven't bothered downloading the Bimmerlink app, but maybe I need to see if I'm throwing any codes.

[wcr3d]

That is going to take someone with the needed tools.
As stated above a complete software flash was the fix, probably should look into that.