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2010 2011 BMW 5 Series Forum F10 F10 Technical Topics Wheels / Tires / Suspension / Brakes Front tension strut /front lower control arm DIY with xDrive ?
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      06-11-2018, 12:02 AM   #1
supraken
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Front tension strut /front lower control arm DIY with xDrive ?

Found some tutorials for this work, but after putting the car up the other I realized that the xDrive model is a different process. On the non xDrive models the ball joint end of the arm doesnt clear the strut and you can just loose and pull the hub down so that it clears. However, on the xDrvie models the ball joint is directly underneath where the axle boot is.

Any ideas how to do this ? Do I have to remove the axle or is there an easier way ??
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      06-28-2018, 12:58 PM   #2
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I'm about to replace the "thrust arms" aka lower control arms on my 2012 F10 XDrive.

I've been putting it off because I haven't found a definitive DIY.

I bought the bit to remove the axles, but I'm hoping if I just remove the tie rod and let the whole hub rotate, that it might be enough to wiggle the arm out.

I found a video of a guy replacing the axles in an F10. I'll post if I can find it again.

I'll let you know how successful I am.
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      07-29-2018, 01:30 PM   #3
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Any luck with this? I am trying to get the struts out of my 15' 535i xDrive so that I can put a set of ACS springs on it. The gap on the xDrive is huge.

Anyhow, the instructions say take the upper control arm pinch bolt out, but I couldn't get that sucker apart for anything. Any suggestions/thoughts/ideas would be fantastic on getting those struts out.

Thanks
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      09-11-2019, 06:08 PM   #4
rkstar9
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same boat here cant get the front control arm out because off ball joint boot.
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      09-25-2019, 06:19 AM   #5
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I also need to do the same, are the instructions here accurate?
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/f...ounts/ByZanwbY
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      09-26-2019, 12:26 PM   #6
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The upper control arm is a fight. It took a pry bar and sledge hammer to beat it free. It took a good bit for myself to remove the front driver side control arm when I did my axles.
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      09-26-2019, 06:35 PM   #7
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Doesn't seem like a lot of people have completed this DIY. Can you share any tips or additional steps needed that's not required from the instructions on the newtis site?
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      12-27-2019, 01:26 PM   #8
addy27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by genepool View Post
Doesn't seem like a lot of people have completed this DIY. Can you share any tips or additional steps needed that's not required from the instructions on the newtis site?
Just adding to this, the upper control arm should come off without a fight as long as it's not under stress. So before trying to release it ensure that it's not being pulled by the knuckle. If you can press/jack up the knuckle a little and then try to move the arm a wee bit,it should be able to pull straight out. The only thing that really holds it in place is that big bolt going through the knuckle top. Don't hammer that area unless you are also replacing the upper control arm. I first used a hammer on the driver side thinking that was the way to get it lose but then a few months later the upper control arm bushing failed and leaked and it started to creak. So I had to replace the driver side upper wishbone. This time I tried to be gentle and with the correct positioning it popped right out.

(Painful in the full replacement are the big bolts going through the strut tower and hidden behind and under the power steering reservoir on the driver side. Passenger side is trickier since the whole DME needs to come out and the electrical box on top of the AC needs to come off!)
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      12-28-2019, 02:50 PM   #9
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You can get at the ball joint by removing the axle bolt attaching it to the hub, and pushing it out of the way. I did that to pull the axle. I want to replace my shock boots, but did not have time to see if the strut could come out at that point. too hard to do with the car just jacked up.
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      02-05-2020, 11:37 AM   #10
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Def have to remove axle bolt. Replace with new bolt afterwards is recommended (150ft lb +90 degrees to tighten) .have to remove plastic underneath vehicle on each side being worked on to access bolt in front. Then remove axle bolt and move axle slightly away to allow for removal of ball joint. I also removed tie rod joint and had plenty of space to completely remove the arm. Tighten everything at normal suspension height afterwards
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