[jdmfrogg]

Alright -

So instead of running the Fortune air setup that comes in their kit, I'm running an AccuAir CVT - Compressor, Valve & Tank setup all in one. The compressor is embedded inside of the tank, the valves are built into the endcaps and 90% of the electronics is located inside of the tank. Since all of the plumbing is internal, all you need to connect is power, ground, hoses and the switch or controller to the associated end caps.

If you have ever seen or heard a regular compressor and tank setup, it takes up a ton more space and is loud. This setup is extremely quiet and a cleaner install.





Here is how I ran the lines and the power and ground in the trunk. Air is on the drivers side and power on the passenger side.



If you look at the top section of that pic, there was a large rubber grommet on the drivers side of the trunk near the rear seats that leads directly to the undercarriage next to the cross member above our differential. You can easily squeeze 2 to 4 air lines (2 if running cups, 4 if running bags) at this location and then branch off as needed. In my setup (2 lines) I used a push to connect T union on the rear line and branched off to the left and right along that cross member for the rear cups. You need to keep both sides equal length so that they air up and down at the same time.



For the 2nd line, I ran it along the drivers side rail following the brake and fuel lines. Since our car has a ton of sound deadening covers, while it's a pain to remove all of the screws to get to the mounting locations for the line, the plus is that you can just use zip ties (no screws or brackets needed) since it will ultimately be protected by the covers.



I built a short platform for the tank and then mounted it to the trunk floor. It has enough space to hide any extra wires and hose.



If you ever need to find the perfect match carpet for speaker boxes, etc... google GM 995 Charcoal trunk liner, its spot on for our factory color.



Now for the coilover install.

Here is the front installed, just use one of the many DIYs on the board for the basic install instructions. Things to note for the Fortunes, you need to loosen the top hat center nut and ensure you clock the top hat & aircup appropriately so that the air line fitting is in the final location that you want to run the line to. The aircup surface that touches the bottom of the top hat has a rubber washer so that the aircup does not rotate once it is installed, so make sure you have this set correctly before you tight up the top. In my setup, I left it dead center.



Since the damper adjustment is on top, you will also need to push out the center plastic piece in the engine bay side so that you can get to the knob.



Another thing to note, pay attention to the left and right side lower coilover mounts and ensure they match up with your stock struts. What I mean by that is that since these ship with the lower sections not connected to the coilover, if you mix up the left vs right side, the end links might not mount up correctly. If you look at the top profile, you'll know which lower mount belongs to the left vs right.



Same goes with the replacement end links Fortune sent you. They are shorter than the stock ones and one end has an angle to it while the other is straight... I forgot to take a pic, but just do the same as above - compare to the stock one so you can figure out which end connects to the coilover vs sway bar.

Rears were straight forward, just clock the cups accordingly. Once installed, the aircup is deep in the cubby hole @ the top...the pic below is kind of deceiving since I took out the wheel well liner to zip tie the air line.



The coilovers air'd out ride smooth. Stiffer than H&R with stock shocks, but not stiff in a harsh way... I left them at the stock settings shipped from Fortune (5 clicks from soft.. so on the softer side.. full hard is 25 click). When you air up and go over speed bumps or driveways, you can feel that the suspension is more rigid since the coil spring is compressed. I want to wait until I have more seat time before I give you all more feedback on ride, cornering, noise, adjustments, etc...

One other thing that I'm watching closely is the droop... i.e. how you need to leave 1+ inch of droop to help with the lift. When you jack up the car, if you do not air up the cup a bit, the springs are loose. You need to pay attention so they seat correctly when you lower the car and so that you don't mess up the swift spring thrust sheets (plastic rings that allow for the springs to rotate without binding). Depending on how it goes, I'll leave it alone, or maybe look into installing some helper springs (zero spring rate helpers that resolve the slop when the suspension is full droop and are fully compressed when the car is on the ground).

Alright - too much typing for tonight... hit me up if you have any questions or want more specifics on anything. Jo

[MOBF10]

Originally Posted by jdmfrogg

Nice! Never would have guessed that was static

oh yeah. Daily drove like this for 2 years. 3 front bumper resprays and 2 side skirt extensions later, it was finally totaled in an accident. Anyways keep us updated on your suspension progress.

[MOBF10]

Great write up so far. Really looking forward to your impressions after more seat time.