2010 2011 BMW 5 Series Forum F10
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2010 2011 BMW 5 Series Forum F10 F10 Technical Topics Engine, Transmission, Exhaust, Drivetrain, ECU Software Modifications valve cover gasket
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      10-19-2018, 05:17 PM   #1
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valve cover gasket

LOCAL INDY SHOP WANTS $650 DOS THAT SOUND FAIR for valve cover gasket replacement?
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      10-19-2018, 07:37 PM   #2
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$650 is very cheap. Either they don't know what they are doing, or are going to learn on your car.... and if they are doing a gasket only on a car with more than 65,000mi you're being done a disservice.

Complete valve covers only on these engines. They are plastic, they warp/crack all the time. The crankcase ventilation system is also prone to failure and integrated into the cover.
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      10-20-2018, 10:43 AM   #3
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The gasket itself is very cheap. Under $50 for OEM BMW. $650 is too cheap. This job isn't a cheap one. If they are reputable shop and warranty the work done, go for it.
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      10-21-2018, 01:39 AM   #4
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Thanks guys i will get new covers, My family member works there thats the family rate.
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      10-21-2018, 09:23 AM   #5
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Local independent shop did my valve cover assembly for about $1200. I didn't even want to bother with my dealer quote.
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      10-21-2018, 09:30 AM   #6
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When do most ppl do their valve cover gasket? And do you always need to change out the valve cover with the job? My e60 I think I did it almost at 100k
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      10-21-2018, 09:52 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ey2001 View Post
When do most ppl do their valve cover gasket? And do you always need to change out the valve cover with the job? My e60 I think I did it almost at 100k
My 2012 535xi. Noticed fluid in my garage floor. Dealer diagnosed that leaking on both valve cover and oil pan. This was about 82K miles. Indy shop only addressed the valve cover only through our discussion and action plan. I am holding out for the slight pan gasket leak for now. Mechanic recommend keeping an eyes out on it for now.
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      10-22-2018, 07:32 AM   #8
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Any idea on best price for the OEM covers?
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      10-22-2018, 07:37 AM   #9
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Originally Posted by BMW535iva View Post
Any idea on best price for the OEM covers?
The cover is not cheap. Valve covers do fail, however not at the rate that a valve cover assembly is needed every time. It’s a personal decision if you want to do the whole cover and avoid future problems. I’m a gambling man and did just the gasket on my own.
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      10-24-2018, 08:26 AM   #10
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I found this article on the crankcase ventilation system problems
https://blog.bavauto.com/21369/bmw-n...on-pcv-repair/

Oil usage in the BMW N54 twin-turbo 6-cylinder engines is quite common. Not only is this inconvenient and potentially embarrassing (oil smoke from the exhaust), it’s unhealthy for the engine. The most common cause for excessive oil usage (in the N54 engine) is a compromised Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) system. The N54 PCV system is a poor design in the first place and allows, what most would consider to be, an excessive amount of oil vapor to be introduced into the intake system. This is the root of the need for periodic walnut media blasting of the intake ports and valves.

Now that these engines have increased age and/or miles on them, the PCV systems are showing signs of failure along with the associated increase in oil consumption. This shows itself as oil smoke through the exhaust and an increased need for adding oil to the crankcase. The excessive oil running through the intake system can actually collect in low lying areas (such as the intercooler) and greatly increased the build-up in the intake ports and on the intake valves.

The N54 (and most late-model turbocharged engines) employs two PCV circuits. One that operates under no/low boost (from intake vacuum to low boost) and a second that operates when the intake system is under actual boost (pressure in the intake system). Each of the systems employs check valves to direct crankcase venting and to prevent boost pressure from entering the crankcase. Either of these systems can degrade and fail to properly vent the crankcase and/or allow boost pressure to reach the crankcase.

The “low side” of the PCV system works through internal passages in the valve cover and cylinder head, along with an internal check valve. This part of the system has two main fault areas:

1) The check valve is weak and tends to leak boost pressure back into the PCV ports and into the crankcase, causing oil usage through the valve guides and past the piston rings. The original valve is technically non-replaceable. However, BAVauto offers an upgraded valve from FTP, which installs in place of the original valve and not only renews the valve, but and is capable of holding higher boost pressures without leakage.

2) The PCV ports that run internally through the valve cover and to the ports in the cylinder head (and ultimately into the intake ports) are sealed by the valve cover gasket. An old, worn, valve cover gasket can allow leakage between the ports in the valve cover and the cylinder head. This causes two separate problems; a) Under intake vacuum, oil can be pulled into the ports, b) Under boost, boost pressure can leak past the gasket (through the ports in the head) and pressureize the crankcase, causing oil usage through the valve guides and past piston rings, as well as increasing the PCV flow through the secondary PCV (Boost) system, which will increase oil vapor flow. Replacing the valve cover gasket AND apply a small amount of gasket sealant arounfd the PCV ports (being careful not to apply in a manner that would “squish” and clog the ports) is the fix for this issue.

The secondary, or “under boost” side of the PCV system employs a check valve that is internal to the PCV hose that runs from the rear of the valve cover to the intake tube. The original check valve can fail and allow boost bressure to enter the crankcase, causing oil usage through the valve guides and past piston rings, as well as increasing the PCV flow through the “low side” PCV system, which will increase oil vapor flow as well. Replacing the PCV hose, provides a new check valve.

We recommend a general PCV service on all N54 engines (135i, 335i, 535i, Z4, 1M), to include:
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      10-24-2018, 08:34 AM   #11
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So is the N55 crankcase ventilation system serviceable ? or do i need to buy the new cover which is $400 plus?
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      10-24-2018, 08:46 PM   #12
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N54 is completely different. Not at all relatable. You will need to buy the valve cover assembly.
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      11-03-2018, 02:59 PM   #13
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Got covers from Dealer for $500 my mechanic said one of the screws wasn't tighten.
I am still glad i did it because of the PCV
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      02-06-2019, 01:28 PM   #14
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Local dealer noticed valve cover leakage on my 2011 535i (w/N55) and quoted $1,230 plus tax (after the BMW CCA discount). It seemed like a lot to fix a valve cover leak, but the service adviser indicated that included a new cover and preventive replacement of the crank case ventilator valve. Based on the above posts, I guess that seems reasonable. But I have low miles (31K). Still wondering how difficult a DIY it would be. Guess I'll be looking that up. I know a lot of the N54 guys were buying aftermarket (improved?) oil separators. Anyone have thoughts on that for the N55?
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      02-07-2019, 09:21 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnM55 View Post
Local dealer noticed valve cover leakage on my 2011 535i (w/N55) and quoted $1,230 plus tax (after the BMW CCA discount). It seemed like a lot to fix a valve cover leak, but the service adviser indicated that included a new cover and preventive replacement of the crank case ventilator valve. Based on the above posts, I guess that seems reasonable. But I have low miles (31K). Still wondering how difficult a DIY it would be. Guess I'll be looking that up. I know a lot of the N54 guys were buying aftermarket (improved?) oil separators. Anyone have thoughts on that for the N55?

Torque the bolts then Get the area clean where the oil was seen. Check it after 500 miles. Like i said my guy said one of the screws were loose at the leak
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      02-07-2019, 10:41 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnM55 View Post
Local dealer noticed valve cover leakage on my 2011 535i (w/N55) and quoted $1,230 plus tax (after the BMW CCA discount). It seemed like a lot to fix a valve cover leak, but the service adviser indicated that included a new cover and preventive replacement of the crank case ventilator valve. Based on the above posts, I guess that seems reasonable. But I have low miles (31K). Still wondering how difficult a DIY it would be. Guess I'll be looking that up. I know a lot of the N54 guys were buying aftermarket (improved?) oil separators. Anyone have thoughts on that for the N55?
I'm having the same issue ! Just purchased a valve cover and gasket for $499.99 OEM wondering if it's possible to change myself and save myself money
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      04-18-2019, 07:42 AM   #17
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Does anyone know what a fair price for R&R of the three gaskets, andnew valve cover is? One local Indy quoted me $2400, and the other $1800. I don't know what I was thinking but I thought it'd be under a grand. $1800 is simply insane but valve cover, and gaskets, plus few other odds and ends.
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      04-20-2019, 05:37 PM   #18
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Here in Cali, I had my valve cover gaskets covered under "emissions" warranty. I think the Emission's warranty is good for 8 years / 100k miles. Luckily, I have a buddy that works at BMW, he said he can cover the valve cover "leak" under that emissions warranty.
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      04-21-2019, 12:07 AM   #19
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There are videos on YouTube for N55 for valve cover.
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      04-26-2019, 03:34 PM   #20
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Just did my valve cover the other day about 4 to 5 hours of work. Its not hard just need good memory on putting everything back in its place. You will save a hell of a lot of money doing it this way. If you need help shoot me a message if you have questions.
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      05-06-2019, 09:51 AM   #21
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I attempted to replace my valve cover over the weekend and I failed due to a single E10 bolt which I could not remove on the Rear of the valve cover. My flexible ratchet extension could not Dislodge the furthest bolt in the back and the passenger side. I needed direct torque not applied by a flexible shaft. I did not try with my huge high torque electric driver as my smaller one can handle most tasks. I had to put everything back together with my head hanging in shame.For those who successfully removed the valve cover on a F10 5 series, did you remove the entire cowl for access? How did you remove the rear valve cover E10 bolts? I got the socket to sit on the bolt but with a flexible extension I could not dislodge the bolt.

I appreciate your help!
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      05-06-2019, 07:14 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bkdc View Post
I attempted to replace my valve cover over the weekend and I failed due to a single E10 bolt which I could not remove on the Rear of the valve cover. My flexible ratchet extension could not Dislodge the furthest bolt in the back and the passenger side. I needed direct torque not applied by a flexible shaft. I did not try with my huge high torque electric driver as my smaller one can handle most tasks. I had to put everything back together with my head hanging in shame.For those who successfully removed the valve cover on a F10 5 series, did you remove the entire cowl for access? How did you remove the rear valve cover E10 bolts? I got the socket to sit on the bolt but with a flexible extension I could not dislodge the bolt.

I appreciate your help!
I wrapped some tape around the swivel to make it not move as much. Helps with 2 hands one to reach along the passenger side to hold it in place. Other person loosen it. It takes a bit that was the most frustrating part. Found out who ever did my valve cover last did not attempt to tighten it. Small hands are your friend. You will crush your hands a little with that method but thats only way we could get to it.
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