[Nickco43]

Today I finished up my ICM job by cleaning up the wiring and making a harness for the active steering module. Everything was wrapped in Tessa tape and looks real good. I also taped the K-Can 2 from the body harness and ran it to the touch controller. I am so happy I am getting rid of this stupid NBT Evo adapter and properly wiring it in with the LCI ZGW2 and ICM.





I took the car to Princeton today and while parallel parking the car I smashed my brand new wheel on a curb. When I got out to check my driver's side wheels were still on the line and sticking out into the road. Anyone have any recommendations for a wheel refinishing service? I am super worried someone is going to butcher the repair.



When I got back my aftermarket display key arrived from China. I coded the key to the car and honestly it is really a gimmick key. I would be mad if I paid more than what I did for it. I put the real metal strips on the aftermarket key to make it feel "more OEM". My key also had a sim card slot which leads me to believe that this is the same case used in the $300 keys that dude on the M5 post is pushing to everyone.

[Nickco43]

Today I tried to tackle the install of soft close door motors and CA into my left rear door and failed. I spent three hours on the one door! What a pain in the ass.I can not get my handle to "feel right" after swapping it out. Does anyone know what I did wrong?

[Nickco43]

Today was a big day. I gutted my entire interior except for the dashboard and the headliner. I did find some moisture in the rear footwell and will need to investigate. I spent $250 on ECS for parts to due HUD and to finish the CA retrofit. I also ordered a $75 HUD, $60, $300 in sound deadening and in wire and a more odds and ends. I still need to find a driver's side handle to complete my CA retrofit.

I am glad I am doing all of this because it turns out the previous owner likes to cut his finger nails in the car *yuck*.

[Nickco43]

Today was another busy day.

I put sound deadening on the the passenger side floorboards to the rear seats, front passenger door and both rear doors. Both rear doors also have the new wiring harness in with the soft close motors and the CA handles. My door harnesses came from a LCI car so I had to rewire them for the pre-lci illumination circuit. It was not hard to do but it through me off guard when the light strips would not light up after installation. My rear left door card also looks like it got a bit wet at one point. Once everything is done I am going to clean all of the drains.

I am using Noico sound deadening products from Amazon. It is made in Russia and it is the cheapest stuff you can use that will not smell or fall off in the summer. I used it before in my first car (E36) with great results. I am hoping I can return the third box of it as I didn't even go through the first box today. The sound deadening is taking a lot longer than expected but I am sure it will be worth it in the end. Some people like forum member Socket go nuts with it covering every square MM. I am only looking to cover the big parts.

I had my first incident today. When pulling off the roof module I cracked it in 1/2 and it now smells like burning electronics. ISTA shows the module being dead and I can not open the sunroof to remove the headliner. Does anyone have a spare roof module they can sell me?

[addy27]

You are doing amazing work! Loving the fact that you're breezing through all the options.

Few things I'd love to hear from you if you've thought about them:

1 - With the new ICM/6WB - In ECO pro mode..does the charge power needle keep bouncing a lot instead of a normal display? I've done this on my Pre-LCI 550i but that charge power needle keeps erratically moving when I accelerate.

2 - You got the ACC setup from a Pre-LCI (newer ICM maybe future proof work but the DSC and FRR are from Pre-LCI car). I highly doubt you'll stop with just ACC and will want to install Traffic Jam assist too (5AR option) but for that I believe newer FRR and newer DSC2 (DXC9 L6 ACC) is needed. I've ordered the newer FRR and have the newer DSC sitting around but the issue is the newer DSC uses a different connector. So before I chop up the existing harness to replace with newer, I'm keen on knowing what issues you saw with the other DSC modules so I can try and test one before installing it.

3 - IF you are not already, I'd say keep. on the lookout for LCI LED Headlights and newer FRM module. This might set you back anywhere from $1500 if you're really lucky, to about $3000 (LED lights, modules, FRM, and then if you want it OEM, you'll have to build a harness that runs to the rear fuse box (might have to swap rear fuse box to newer one for the right fuse location or piggy back existing ones to get by).

4 - And to complete your deriving assist retrofit, along with improved HUD, you may want to think about adding the KAFAS2 module and Camera and a newer windshield. OR you could snag these modules and wait for your windshield to crack..then when you switch it out, get the one with HUD and Camera options and complete this retrofit.

5 - Wondering if you're also then thinking about night vision retrofit?

Modding these cars is never ending..but I love how you're going full OEM options!!
Will keep following

(Oh and also, do a quick little mod.. adding rear fog lights.. just need to get a light switch from Europe with the rear fog light button. The rear fog light bulbs are already installed so just need the switch)

[beegeezy]

FYI, the water in the rear footwells is likely coming from the moisture barrier on the rear doors. Water collects in the door during heavy rainfalls, spills over into the interior because the goopy seal for the barrier dries out. I removed the plugs on the bottom of the doors (facing the ground) and drilled holes in them to help drain the water.

[Nickco43]

Originally Posted by addy27

You are doing amazing work! Loving the fact that you're breezing through all the options.

Few things I'd love to hear from you if you've thought about them:

1 - With the new ICM/6WB - In ECO pro mode..does the charge power needle keep bouncing a lot instead of a normal display? I've done this on my Pre-LCI 550i but that charge power needle keeps erratically moving when I accelerate.

2 - You got the ACC setup from a Pre-LCI (newer ICM maybe future proof work but the DSC and FRR are from Pre-LCI car). I highly doubt you'll stop with just ACC and will want to install Traffic Jam assist too (5AR option) but for that I believe newer FRR and newer DSC2 (DXC9 L6 ACC) is needed. I've ordered the newer FRR and have the newer DSC sitting around but the issue is the newer DSC uses a different connector. So before I chop up the existing harness to replace with newer, I'm keen on knowing what issues you saw with the other DSC modules so I can try and test one before installing it.

3 - IF you are not already, I'd say keep. on the lookout for LCI LED Headlights and newer FRM module. This might set you back anywhere from $1500 if you're really lucky, to about $3000 (LED lights, modules, FRM, and then if you want it OEM, you'll have to build a harness that runs to the rear fuse box (might have to swap rear fuse box to newer one for the right fuse location or piggy back existing ones to get by).

4 - And to complete your deriving assist retrofit, along with improved HUD, you may want to think about adding the KAFAS2 module and Camera and a newer windshield. OR you could snag these modules and wait for your windshield to crack..then when you switch it out, get the one with HUD and Camera options and complete this retrofit.

5 - Wondering if you're also then thinking about night vision retrofit?

Modding these cars is never ending..but I love how you're going full OEM options!!
Will keep following

(Oh and also, do a quick little mod.. adding rear fog lights.. just need to get a light switch from Europe with the rear fog light button. The rear fog light bulbs are already installed so just need the switch)

1. My needle works as intended.

2. The older DXC and FRR worked just fine with both my old style and new style ICM. I have no idea if you will run into issues with traffic jam assistant using the old style DXC or if you are able to convert the old DXC system to the new DXC. I too have a new DXC ACC pump sitting around that I bought for $80.

3. I have seen the LED highlights on a F30 before and while a huge upgrade I would not spend more than $1k USD all in on the retrofit. Right now I have no issues with the stock xenon headlights.

4. I want to do KAFAS 2 so bad but I can not justify spending $1500 on a windshield. My state does not have special insurance rules for windshields like in MA so I would be paying 100% out of pocket.

5. Eventually if I find the parts cheap enough I want to do night vision.

After all of this is done the next thing is that I really want a proper nappa or individual interior.

Some guy has the dashboard from an individual M5 that I got supper excided when I found it but he does not have the rest of the interior.

I also would drop huge money on the wood trim with the inlay (4CT). I can't find the link to the one Russian F07 with it but it looks so high end.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/12-16-BMW-M...Condition=3000

Originally Posted by beegeezy

FYI, the water in the rear footwells is likely coming from the moisture barrier on the rear doors. Water collects in the door during heavy rainfalls, spills over into the interior because the goopy seal for the barrier dries out. I removed the plugs on the bottom of the doors (facing the ground) and drilled holes in them to help drain the water.

Interesting, I will see if I can seal the doors up a bit better.

[Nickco43]

Today was a fun day. I have been driving around my sisters Rav4 while I have been working on my F10 for the past few weeks. Today many people on the Northeast including me experienced a good amount of snow fall today. On the way back from Lowes turning onto my street at maybe 10 miles an hour the front tires decided they didn't want to grip anymore and I slammed into the curb. I limped the car back home and found a cracked lower control arm and a curbed wheel.





I am leaving early Friday morning and this car has to be operational before I leave. In a panic, a quick search online finds that an auto zone about 10 miles away had a lower control arm in stock. With no other choice I hauled up the F10's steering wheel and driver's seat from the basement, bolt it in and start my trip to auto zone. At this point the roads are still not plowed and there is deep snow on the road. The xDrive system and my new DWS006 tries made the car feel planted in the snow. I have never driven a car in snow that was this good. While other cars on the road were smashed into curbs or stuck the F10 trekked away without even the traction control light coming on.

Eight hours after the crash the car is operational again. To my surprise the hub and the tie rods are undamaged. I test drove it down my street and I don't even think it needs an alignment but knowing me (and since it is not my car) I will probably have it checked over tomorrow.






I thought xDrive was not necessary with the two snow days I year I get but today it was a life saver. I am supper impressed with my F10 and can't wait until everything is back together.

[addy27]

Man, tough day but then again, East Coast winters come with tons of these issues. I remember when I had my e46xi and used to pass bunch of stuck cars (including SUVs) in the Boston winters. Many a times I trekked between Boston and Long Island during snow storms and the Xi never let me down.

On another note, did you retrofit ACC on your F10 yet? I'm wondering how to commission a used unit. My car already has ACC but its Pre-LCI. I got myself a new module but im getting an error as soon as I start driving. I'm pretty sure its a chassis number mismatch between CAS/FRM and ACC and maybe after that sensor adjustment might be needed. But for now, I'm a bit stuck. Not sure what function to use in either Tool32 or E-sys to change VIN on the FRR module to match my car. (Already VO coded it but that didn't make the error go away)

[Unspec]

Honestly, as good as the xDrive is, good snow tires are even more important. My cousin made the mistake of trusting xDrive too much on their X5 and slid right into a snowbank, even with Pilot Sport A/S 3's.

[Nickco43]

Originally Posted by addy27

Man, tough day but then again, East Coast winters come with tons of these issues. I remember when I had my e46xi and used to pass bunch of stuck cars (including SUVs) in the Boston winters. Many a times I trekked between Boston and Long Island during snow storms and the Xi never let me down.

On another note, did you retrofit ACC on your F10 yet? I'm wondering how to commission a used unit. My car already has ACC but its Pre-LCI. I got myself a new module but im getting an error as soon as I start driving. I'm pretty sure its a chassis number mismatch between CAS/FRM and ACC and maybe after that sensor adjustment might be needed. But for now, I'm a bit stuck. Not sure what function to use in either Tool32 or E-sys to change VIN on the FRR module to match my car. (Already VO coded it but that didn't make the error go away)

My ACC works just fine. When you VO code the sensor it changes the VIN. I think your sensor needs to be calibrated with the dealer tool.

Originally Posted by Unspec

Honestly, as good as the xDrive is, good snow tires are even more important. My cousin made the mistake of trusting xDrive too much on their X5 and slid right into a snowbank, even with Pilot Sport A/S 3's.

The DWS006 are ultra high performance all seasons. These are tuned more for snow while the A/S 3s are tuned more for dry performance.

[M_Bimmer]

Originally Posted by Nickco43

1. My needle works as intended.

After all of this is done the next thing is that I really want a proper nappa or individual interior.

I also would drop huge money on the wood trim with the inlay (4CT). I can't find the link to the one Russian F07 with it but it looks so high end.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/12-16-BMW-M...Condition=3000

Hey Nickco64,

When shopping for F10 Merino Leather, be very careful with what is advertised in the title or description...

There are 1/2 Merino Leather covered door cards, and full Merino Leather covered door cards, often both are sold for the same price (over priced)....Full Merino leather has stitching in the leather on the top edge, and around the door pocket. 1/2 Merino will only have it on the 1/2 panel on the door handle pull and armrest area, and there is typically no stitching on the 1/2 panel. The full Merino Leather door cards also have Merino leather on the back half of the handle pull, which is why it is black - it won't turn to goo.

The dashboards are also sometimes incorrectly stated as "Leather" covered, but without the tell tale sign of stitching, it is 100% synthetic vinyl, top to bottom, glove box too. If it has "grain" leather pattern, it is for sure, vinyl. A full merino dashboard, will have smooth leather everywhere, including the glovebox, except the driver's side cubby (sunglass compartment) door. So the ebay link in your previous post, is not "full-merino", nor leather at all....

Center console is also sometimes advertised as Merino Leather, but it two can have the top trim piece and arm rest (compartment flaps) in Merino Leather, but the sides of the center console will still be vinyl. If it is truly leather covered, it will have a very smooth surface on it's sides.

Not sure you are going to be able to buy all pieces from one seller, but I will keep an eye out for pieces for you.

Remember that the 1/2 panel on the door card just above the door arm rest, the door arm rest itself, and the door handle pull, can be changed on all door cards to the color that matches your interior....I can send you a quick tutorial on how when the time comes.

[Nickco43]

I am back home from my trip and thankfully my wire, the servotronic module, Fuel tank vent and my interior antennas have arrived. I put in the new fuel tank vent and the ticking noise went away. When plugging in my servotronic module it still would not come on essays. Checking power and I found 0v at the connector. Turns out I somehow blew the fuse. Once the fuse was replaced I coded the new module and I have power steering again.

I am super excited I now have some of the parts needed to continue working on the car again. Not having my F10 is getting old at this point and I would like to have everything together by the new year.

[Nickco43]

Dash is out and I found a bunch of various papers that got stuck under the dash. Even though I am not installing the HUD module for a little bit I now have excellent access to the front fuse box and the ability to run wires behind the Hvac box to CA and everything else. The dash pull took 45 minutes and was super easy.

Fingers cross my ECS order comes next week. I also just realized I do not have any fuse box connectors so I will need to go to the dealer or see if mouser has any.

[M_Bimmer]

A dozen or so 13mm bolts/nuts, you'd have the dashboard frame out....giving you access to your HVAC stratification box....and the flap assembly can be removed really easily...for the 4-zone capability...

You'd have to remove the cabin fan as the harness for the HVAC stratification box, in the right rear of the engine compartment....

But you've removed 90% of the stuff now....

Below is a "fuzzy" picture of my interior down to your level....

[Nickco43]

Originally Posted by M_Bimmer

A dozen or so 13mm bolts/nuts, you'd have the dashboard frame out....giving you access to your HVAC stratification box....and the flap assembly can be removed really easily...for the 4-zone capability...

You'd have to remove the cabin fan as the harness for the HVAC stratification box, in the right rear of the engine compartment....

But you've removed 90% of the stuff now....

Below is a "fuzzy" picture of my interior down to your level....

I couldn't get myself to buy the 4 zone parts since I almost never have rear seat passengers. Maybe one day when I can get the parts and my local pick and pull.

My HUD trim showed up in my local USPS hub after 20 days lost which is amazing. I also ordered a new dome light module and I finally found a A89 front driver's side door handle for $55. Tomorrow I really want to finish assembling my front passenger door, finish the sound deadening in the trunk and start running wires. I worried by the time everything is done I will have forgotten how to put the car back together.

[Nickco43]

Today was a busy day. I started running wires finally and then I found out I do not have any male pins for the door harnesses. I ran extra wire and I will crimp on the pins later when I order them from mouser. I ran the one wire I forgot to during the power trunk retrofit, sound deadened and put the trunk lid carpet back on with new clips. The trunk lid hopefully will never be touched again!

The door harnesses on the driver's side have all of the four new wires ran to them and the passenger side doors have soft close power wires ran. I also de-janked the wiring for my ACC sensor and heated steering wheel. The steering wheel wiring is better than OEM now and properly ran to the fuse box.

I put my front passenger side door back together and the window won't go down all of the way. I had to remove the window motor to remove the wiring harness so either that is the issue or the wiring harness is not secured all of the way. I will investigate this later.

I finally got myself to go out and buy a trickle charger when my battery went down to 12.2 voltes. The car has been sitting for about a month now. Fingers crossed my connectors come soon from USPS.

[Nickco43]

Today I finished my passenger side door after discovering the new harness was in the way of the window causing to not go down all of the way, finished cutting the hole for the HUD in my dash and test fitted the dash. I am going to end up gluing the trim down to keep it from popping up as my cut job is not 100% perfect. Eventually I will probobly end up buying a new dash with the HUD and driver assistance button cutouts. I am not even bothering with cutting my dash for the driver assistance buttons as I know it will end bad.

My parts from ECS are coming tomorrow since they are overnighting the second order after USPS lost the first one. I am super excited to start wrapping this project up.

[Nickco43]

Over the past few days I got a lot of work done. The contactless tailgate opener, all interior CA antennas, rear bumper exterior antenna, NBT FM2 antenna wire are all installed. The wiring harnesses from the rear bumper to the rear bench are all taped up with Tessa tape.

The rear bumper was super easy to remove. I drilled a hole into the rubber grommet and run the two wiring harnesses to the CA antenna and the contactless tail gate sensor. I put RTV on both sides of the hole to no water leaks into the car.





All four soft close motors are wired to the fuse box now and I have two of them working. The driver's side rear will not work and the driver's side front needed to be glued back together. Finger's crossed I can get both of them working or I will need to drop another $200 on motors. My fuse box didn't have the connector for the two soft close motor fuse slot locations so I ended up just putting them all next to each other. All of my retrofitted devices are wired in using blue wire so I can easily locate them if there is ever an issue.

Overall I am super proud of how the wiring job is turning out. You would really need to know BMW wiring to tell that there was anything done to this car. If I can get my ass back out in my freezing garage tonight I want to pop off both side skirts to install the two side exterior CA antennas. These are the last two wires I need to run for my retrofits.









lsturbointeg How hard was it to pop the side skirts off and do you know how the CA antenna wires were run from the factor?

[lsturbointeg]

Originally Posted by Nickco43

lsturbointeg How hard was it to pop the side skirts off and do you know how the CA antenna wires were run from the factor?

here's my DIY I made a 4 years ago
https://f10.5post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1403605

[Nickco43]

Originally Posted by lsturbointeg

here's my DIY I made a 4 years ago
https://f10.5post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1403605

I got both side skirts off easily but for the life of me I can not find out how the damn wire enters the car. Does your car have CA and do you remember how the wire went into the car?

[Nickco43]

I found a guide for the G20 in Russian but I think it will work with the F10.

https://www.drive2.ru/l/564322969640239924//