[Sunnyc123abc]

Yes, its under the driver side turbo

[mgattmch]

Looks like I have exactly the same problem, see my previous post on the $2,500 oil change. Car is currently with the BMW dealership and they are discussing with my extended warranty provider (Zurich) who is going to pay for the work. Will report back soon.

[mgattmch]

Pleased to report Zurich (extended warranty) came through for me and authorized the repair. Repair completed and I pick the car up today.

[Gpfarrell]

Kriss993tt, I love that you sourced better parts from a hardware store and used a woodscrew in the process! Seems a much better end-result than the by-the-book process to which the dealerships are handcuffed.

[krautmeister]

Guys,

Do you think the 90 degree fitting will affect flow when the factory is more of a Y? I think I could probably source this closer to the factory configuration or hell, just cast a new one in aluminum and machine it. If it's a non issue, I may just go ahead and replace this as preventative when I get some time.

[kris993tt]

Thanks GPF .

Kraut meister, that piece is a Y because it appears that the hose orientation is better suited for it. You can kind of see what I mean from the pics. Putting in a T just means the hose coming up from the main coolant hose connected to the radiator has to take a slight bend to it. It doesn't even kink the hose.

On flow though, I did notice that stupid plastic t had really small orifices, almost like it was meant to restrict flow. The brass T I had bought had slightly larger openings. However, from the pics, it would appear the connections from the heads also have small openings and hence would be restricting flow anyway. I went ahead and fitted mine and as reported from a similar fix in 2013 on my N62, have no long term problems to report. The fix on my X650i with the N63 is going well. No more smell of leaking/burning coolant, temps are good and levels are fine!

[kohsin]

Heard quite few horror stories on this so I did this for $12 and my SA said this is a smart move by reflecting the heat away from these connecting joints. Hope it works...

[krautmeister]

Kohsin,

I realize that heat wrap does help initially, but I'd bet in a matter of 30 minutes, heat would have completely saturated the fittings. Not to say that maybe the temperature swings are more gradual, it may help with longevity. I think I may just go with the brass T as in the DIY just for insurance.

[smoothak]

Fellow BMW 550i/F10 owners,

Need some quick advice on how to handle my current situation.

Quick background:

I have a 2011 BMW 550i that has only 49k miles on it. On Dec 28th, 2016, I decided to have my coolant flushed since it was coming to 5 years and figured what the heck, it might be a good time to do it. So I took it to the local dealership here in the Bay Area to have it done. At that time, I had a brake flush and coolant flush performed.

Now here is the where it gets interesting. Ever since that day, the car now pings me to refill coolant. When it occurred the first time, I figured to myself how can the car need coolant this early especially since I just had a coolant flush service. So i refilled it with the original BMW coolant and didn't think much of it. Three days later, it asked for coolant again. This time I took it to the dealer and they explained to me that it's possible that when you do a coolant flush, that at times there can be "air pockets" and the coolant is just "settling" now. So the person in the driveway, topped me off with more coolant. So another 4 days pass by and guess what? Refill coolant indicator comes up again. So this time, I'm concerned and pissed off. So I take it back to the same dealership and spoke to the service advisor who originally had conducted the coolant flush service and explained to him of my concerns and the fact that the refill coolant reminder continues to keep coming up yet, I don't see any coolant on the ground.

So they took it in for a thorough evaluation. Later in the day, I get a call from the advisor stating that there is truly a leak and the leak is near the coolant lines going into the turbocharger and this is why the coolant consumption is high. And basically, the car isn't getting cooled so it has a good chance that the car will overheat. So to repair it all back to normal will require a major overhaul and removal of turbos and more and the total bill to repair it all with be $5K!!!!

Now here is my question - did the "bozo" who did my coolant flush aggravate or accelerate the coolant leak situation or actually cause my problem?

Has anyone seen similar problems? Can a coolant flush cause such a big issue? Since my car is out of warranty, this is all out of pocket at this point but I'm regretting getting the coolant flush done as now I'm stuck with a $5k bill on my hand and can't drive the car otherwise it has the potential of being overheated.

So i'm looking to other smarter and wiser BMW F10 owners to get your advice and how best to deal with the dealership. Should I contact BMW NA or have my lawyer get involved? Any insights and expertise around this subject would be much appreciated.

Thanks,
AK

[geminiys]

It could be a coincidence, as well as aggravated by a mechanic performing the coolant flush. Mechanics sometimes shake houses to observe leaks, cracks and that is how it all starts. I know from my own experience when I serviced ML320. Every time I brought the car for service transmission lines were reported to begin leaking. I have replaced them 3 times (one at the service and other 2 by myself). What was funny that when I brought the car for services the lines were dry and after picking the car they were moist and reported leaking. I stopped going there and replaced lines again. Many miles past that the lines are still dry.
Rather then going to a dealer find an Indy to do this job for much cheaper. You mentioned that you are in Bay Area. I am here as well and all out of warranty work that I can't do it myself I bring it to German Motors Specialists in Mountain View. The 2 owner are formal BMW Mechanics that decided to open their own place in 1998. They do great work and are very honest. You can get 1-st time visit coupon on their site and if you mention my name I can get some discount too. I am not affiliated with them. Just mentioning a good place to have your car serviced. If end up going to them mention that Eugene Sush. from San Francisco recommended you.

Good Luck.

Originally Posted by smoothak

Fellow BMW 550i/F10 owners,

Need some quick advice on how to handle my current situation.

Quick background:

I have a 2011 BMW 550i that has only 49k miles on it. On Dec 28th, 2016, I decided to have my coolant flushed since it was coming to 5 years and figured what the heck, it might be a good time to do it. So I took it to the local dealership here in the Bay Area to have it done. At that time, I had a brake flush and coolant flush performed.

Now here is the where it gets interesting. Ever since that day, the car now pings me to refill coolant. When it occurred the first time, I figured to myself how can the car need coolant this early especially since I just had a coolant flush service. So i refilled it with the original BMW coolant and didn't think much of it. Three days later, it asked for coolant again. This time I took it to the dealer and they explained to me that it's possible that when you do a coolant flush, that at times there can be "air pockets" and the coolant is just "settling" now. So the person in the driveway, topped me off with more coolant. So another 4 days pass by and guess what? Refill coolant indicator comes up again. So this time, I'm concerned and pissed off. So I take it back to the same dealership and spoke to the service advisor who originally had conducted the coolant flush service and explained to him of my concerns and the fact that the refill coolant reminder continues to keep coming up yet, I don't see any coolant on the ground.

So they took it in for a thorough evaluation. Later in the day, I get a call from the advisor stating that there is truly a leak and the leak is near the coolant lines going into the turbocharger and this is why the coolant consumption is high. And basically, the car isn't getting cooled so it has a good chance that the car will overheat. So to repair it all back to normal will require a major overhaul and removal of turbos and more and the total bill to repair it all with be $5K!!!!

Now here is my question - did the "bozo" who did my coolant flush aggravate or accelerate the coolant leak situation or actually cause my problem?

Has anyone seen similar problems? Can a coolant flush cause such a big issue? Since my car is out of warranty, this is all out of pocket at this point but I'm regretting getting the coolant flush done as now I'm stuck with a $5k bill on my hand and can't drive the car otherwise it has the potential of being overheated.

So i'm looking to other smarter and wiser BMW F10 owners to get your advice and how best to deal with the dealership. Should I contact BMW NA or have my lawyer get involved? Any insights and expertise around this subject would be much appreciated.

Thanks,
AK

[kris993tt]

AK,

Think you have the same problem that started this thread. The cause as explained of course could be either coincidence or exacerbated by a service mech. if it's any consolation, those hoses are known to leak (often times earlier than yours).

The reason the bill's so high is that two of the coolant hoses to the turbos are connected beneath the turbos (think these are the return lines). They have to remove the turbos to get proper access. The good news maybe is that they are leaking at the hose connections to the metal pipes that sit on top (under the engine covers' please pics earlier in this thread). Easily seen if you pull the engine cover off (it's just clipped on). If the leak is there, replacing the original crimped on hose clamp with a worm type most times does the trick.

You may though (also) have a leak at the y pipe also covered in this thread. The fix here too, covered above.

Good luck,

cheers,
Kris

[BloomingtonFPV]

Also- What size is the t-nut?

[BloomingtonFPV]

Was the brass fitting the same internal diameter as the plastic y-piece that you removed? I'm worried that if it is smaller it may constrict the flow of coolant and lead to either overheating or pump failure. But I have no direct knowledge, so don't interpret this as criticism, just a question.

[Apple Corps]

An FYI - even though I have not personally verified the new part design - I gave my vin to the parts guy and he checked the turbo coolant hoses and connectors and informed me that there is no plastic "y" connector in play. He went back to the parts bin and said it was all rubber hoses and metal tubing for my vin. My 550i is a very late 2014 delivery.

So, it sounds as if BMW designed this poor part out somewhere along the line. However, I will probably double confirm this at my next service.

Also, regarding the brass fitting concept - changing pipe diameter can materially increase or decrease feed pressure - something else to think about.

[Gpfarrell]

Wouldn't it be nice if they'd retrofit older cars, even for a price.

[Apple Corps]

Originally Posted by Gpfarrell

Wouldn't it be nice if they'd retrofit older cars, even for a price.

That would be a yes :-) I did not catch what MY / engine the various posts involved - not aware of the changes in this area from the N63 to the N63tu.

[kris993tt]

The T-fitting I used is slightly larger in diameter (internal) then the Y pipe. But the connection points at the two heads are narrow as well and flow is determined by the narrowest point in a line. The difference in the fitting though is marginal. Also, I did an identical fix on my N62 engine which had an identical fitting. That was back in 2013 and cars been running fine since .

[DriveTrainMalfunc]

The brass fix is something the e38 guys have done for years on the v12s plastic Y fittings. It saddens me that bmw still pulls this type of quality issue till this day. One thing I've learned is to not fully trust the BMW engineers. Unfortunately a lot of long term major problems can happen. Life Time transmission fluid is one. Cheap plastic parts is another. Faulty valve seals is another. I'm going to replace the plastic fitting as well as all of the clamps. They tend to slide about causing coolant to build up around the edges.

[DriveTrainMalfunc]

I may have found a solution a little expensive but it should work.

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-ecs-part...FVhWDQodRKsKiQ

[innosatt]

Thank u to kris993tt for blazing the trail
At 54k miles I had already replaced two hoses up top which were obvious coolant leaks. I still smelled coolant cooking after exiting vehicle always. Never from motor compartment though. The smell always came from sides of vehicle so wafting from below likely from a pool being heated by engine is my guess. That and coolant low warning after a few drives pointed me to search out this post. Thank you

Now under turbos I also able to see leaks and replace the severely degraded 3/8" nylon y connecting the three 3/8" hoses with a brass 3/8" tee after about 1hr labor and 4hrs figuring out what tools are needed

Some observations
Replacing the entire part of 3 hoses would so much more difficult.
Lengthy 3/8" hose garbers will make tight job so much easier (harbor freight sells set of 1/4" 3/8" and 1/2")
The degraded nylon tee will break off inside hoses.
Thread lengthy 5" long screws diameter 1/4" then 5/16" then 3/8" in sequense then pull out of hoses to clean out the degraded nylon wall inside hoses.

[David3]

My turn for this repair on my '12 550i. Debating with myself on replacing the vent hose with a new BMW part or installing the brass "T". If I go the "T" route, I am not concern about internal dimensions as the hose is merely a high point vent which makes the orifice size irrelevant just so long as the air/coolant can pass through it.

Thoughts?

[BloomingtonFPV]

My thoughts having done both the replacement without pulling the alternator, and then again after pulling the alternator:

1) It is a HUGE pain to do this job without pulling the alternator if you replace the hoses. Lots of remote work with long extensions. I ended up tightening the hose clamp too much, and it ruined the new hose and I had to replace it when I eventually pulled the turbos for rebuild. Hose clamps only need 4-8Nm of torque!

2) If you use the t solution, make sure that the hose is good where you will clamp down the T.

3) If you replace the whole hose, consider the aftermarket version that has a much more robust t-connection.

Unfortunately pulling the alternator means pulling the fan and the belt, and then the fuel line, which can be a pain to put back (at least it was for us).

I'd try the T route first, and then ask yourself whether you might want to just get in there and re-do the turbos and the oil return seal which also may be leaking. The oil lines for the turbos probably could be replaced at this point.

Here is the link to the DIY if you want to see how I did it:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/ukx902y86l...aller.pdf?dl=0