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      07-03-2020, 05:51 PM   #45
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Originally Posted by Surly73 View Post
I realize that I forgot to give my thanks to Unspec too. I appreciate that you took the time to do a write up, pictures, instructions and tips etc.... It all helps the DIY community.
My pleasure. Just glad to be able to help out where I can, I've learned a lot from the community as well and just trying to give back

Stay tuned for a front diff, rear diff, and transfer case fluid DIY soon.
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      07-10-2020, 05:05 PM   #46
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Originally Posted by Unspec View Post
My pleasure. Just glad to be able to help out where I can, I've learned a lot from the community as well and just trying to give back

Stay tuned for a front diff, rear diff, and transfer case fluid DIY soon.
Looking forward to those DIY's!
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      11-19-2020, 03:07 PM   #47
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Contacted ZF and they confirmed that the wheels should not spin during the filling period. Updated post to reflect that.
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      11-21-2020, 02:46 PM   #48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Unspec View Post
Contacted ZF and they confirmed that the wheels should not spin during the filling period. Updated post to reflect that.
Much appreciated.

I have to say that was something I sat and looked at for a while before doing mine. I did end up allowing the wheels to spin for part of it. At least one of the instruction sets I had from ZF said to work through all the gears up to 8. With your foot on the brake you can only select 1 and 2. So, for mine, I allowed the wheels to spin for part of the task and then went back to being on the brakes for the final level set.
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      11-21-2020, 03:51 PM   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Surly73 View Post
Much appreciated.

I have to say that was something I sat and looked at for a while before doing mine. I did end up allowing the wheels to spin for part of it. At least one of the instruction sets I had from ZF said to work through all the gears up to 8. With your foot on the brake you can only select 1 and 2. So, for mine, I allowed the wheels to spin for part of the task and then went back to being on the brakes for the final level set.
At least according to the document (dated 9/2020) the rep sent me, you're only supposed to let it go into M1 and M2 (D1 and D2 for them). Makes sense given you can't go higher or you'd stall the engine.

Looks like ZF goes for the 2k RPM fill first, then gears, and BMW does it the other way around. Probably doesn't matter as long as you do both.
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      12-10-2020, 02:52 PM   #50
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nice Faq
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      03-29-2021, 08:11 PM   #51
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I did the first step of a fluid change in my 535i today. The car has ~92k miles and I think the trans fluid is original.

I drained the fluid out of the fill plug, then drain plug. I then replaced the drain plug and refilled until it trickled out. After reinstalling the fill plug, I warmed the trans to 42 degrees C. Then I topped off the trans and took it for a spin. The shifting is already improved.

Next I will drive the car for a few weeks and repeat the process. Then I'll do a pan/filter change. That should replace a good percentage of the fluid.

I got 11 qts of ZF lifeguard 8 and a ZF pan/filter kit from RM European. I normally like FCP Euro, but this was a much better deal.

Last edited by beegeezy; 03-30-2021 at 06:38 AM..
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      03-29-2021, 11:56 PM   #52
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Quote:
Originally Posted by beegeezy View Post
I did the first step of a fluid change in my 535i today. The car has -92k miles and I think the trans fluid is original.

I drained the fluid out of the fill plug, then drain plug. I then replaced the drain plug and refilled until it trickled out. After reinstalling the fill plug, I warmed the trans to 42 degrees C. Then I topped off the trans and took it for a spin. The shifting is already improved.

Next I will drive the car for a few weeks and repeat the process. Then I'll do a pan/filter change. That should replace a good percentage of the fluid.

I got 11 qts of ZF lifeguard 8 and a ZF pan/filter kit from RM European. I normally like FCP Euro, but this was a much better deal.
You're a bit early on the mileage. Supposed to be changed at 60k miles, but you're still in the negatives!

Glad it went well. You did the whole rowing through the gears and stuff right? Just double checking
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      03-30-2021, 06:42 AM   #53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Unspec View Post
You're a bit early on the mileage. Supposed to be changed at 60k miles, but you're still in the negatives!

Glad it went well. You did the whole rowing through the gears and stuff right? Just double checking
Haha, that was supposed to be the about, aka “ish” symbol ~
That’s what I get for typing without my glasses.

Yeah, I went through many R, D, M1, M2, M1, D, R sequences. Overall, I’d say this was very easy. Thanks for the DIY!
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      03-30-2021, 07:21 AM   #54
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Also, I left off the large underbody center cover to save a step for the next two fluid changes in my sequence.
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      03-30-2021, 10:58 AM   #55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by beegeezy View Post
Haha, that was supposed to be the about, aka “ish” symbol ~
That’s what I get for typing without my glasses.

Yeah, I went through many R, D, M1, M2, M1, D, R sequences. Overall, I’d say this was very easy. Thanks for the DIY!
Agreed that it's fairly straightfoward. Just a bit messy when you're doing it on jack stands alone.
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      04-19-2021, 10:42 AM   #56
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@Unspec thanks for the DIY. I just got my kit in from FCP so I'll be tackling this come Friday. I just turned over 65k so i'm a little past where I wanted to be (damn work).

I'll be doing the job on jack stands. Any tips from folks that have done the job recently?
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      04-19-2021, 12:03 PM   #57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Encendido3 View Post
@Unspec thanks for the DIY. I just got my kit in from FCP so I'll be tackling this come Friday. I just turned over 65k so i'm a little past where I wanted to be (damn work).

I'll be doing the job on jack stands. Any tips from folks that have done the job recently?
I completed this task using the write-up and was nervous as it was my first BMW ownership maintenance.

Looking back, it was very easy... just take your time.

One thing I did was put a level on the pan before removing it to ensure the car was level. (My garage has floor drains... it took some fine tuning with the jack stands to get sorted).

Let us know how you make out.
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      04-19-2021, 04:29 PM   #58
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Quote:
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Encendido3 View Post
@Unspec thanks for the DIY. I just got my kit in from FCP so I'll be tackling this come Friday. I just turned over 65k so i'm a little past where I wanted to be (damn work).

I'll be doing the job on jack stands. Any tips from folks that have done the job recently?
I completed this task using the write-up and was nervous as it was my first BMW ownership maintenance.

Looking back, it was very easy... just take your time.

One thing I did was put a level on the pan before removing it to ensure the car was level. (My garage has floor drains... it took some fine tuning with the jack stands to get sorted).

Let us know how you make out.
Good to hear. I've done a few items (OFHG, oil pan gasket) but those oddly enough didn't worry me as much once they seemed more straight forward. I'll definitely use the level to get it as level as possible.
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      04-19-2021, 05:50 PM   #59
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Encendido3 View Post
Good to hear. I've done a few items (OFHG, oil pan gasket) but those oddly enough didn't worry me as much once they seemed more straight forward. I'll definitely use the level to get it as level as possible.
Use a level to get it ballpark, but it honestly doesn't need to be that level. As long as there's no noticeable tilt to the car, you're fine. At most, if you're off level a little, you'll be ~100-200ml short or overfilled which is well within margin of error. There's overhead built in so that the transmission doesn't just immediately grenade if it leaks.
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      04-25-2021, 10:09 PM   #60
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Unspec View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Encendido3 View Post
Good to hear. I've done a few items (OFHG, oil pan gasket) but those oddly enough didn't worry me as much once they seemed more straight forward. I'll definitely use the level to get it as level as possible.
Use a level to get it ballpark, but it honestly doesn't need to be that level. As long as there's no noticeable tilt to the car, you're fine. At most, if you're off level a little, you'll be ~100-200ml short or overfilled which is well within margin of error. There's overhead built in so that the transmission doesn't just immediately grenade if it leaks.
Andddd done. Damn that took longer than I expected. I ran into an issue with my DIY filler. Damn pressure valve crapped out on me and was leaking after 2 liters. Had to struggle through the rest of the bottles by using the damn tube that comes attached to them. I drained about 3.5l give or take (quite a bit spilled when the filter hole unplugged) and put in just under 4. Took for a spin and it definitely shifts better. Sport+ was buttery smooth.

Thanks again for the write up!
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      04-26-2021, 09:46 PM   #61
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Did it yesterday, thanks for the write up as it aided in my successful attempt as well. I was nervous about doing it myself, it sounds like a beast of a job but wasn't that bad at all. I will definitely do this on every new to me BMW that I purchase and at every 50k miles.

I added 4-1/2 liters (5 if you include the overfill) and only took a couple of hours. The intimidating part for me was ISTA, but that had to be the easier part of it. If you have not done this and you are thinking about doing it, DO IT!!!! It was almost as easy as an oil change. The hardest part was finding a the correct tool to remove and tighten the fill plug b/c of the actual spacing between the bolt and firewall/body of the car because I tried to find a torque setup locally, impossible and I ended up just going the Allen wrench route.

Thanks again Unspec for the awesome write up, I owe you a 12 pack my friend.
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      05-05-2021, 03:17 PM   #62
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How did you get all wheels off the ground with out car falling off from one of the stands
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      05-05-2021, 03:28 PM   #63
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EL Jeffe 5 View Post
How did you get all wheels off the ground with out car falling off from one of the stands
Honestly I just jacked up from the Right Rear jack point. This is the one closest to the fill hole. I think this means there's a risk of putting too much, but I just guesstimated based on how much I took out. Car has been running perfectly fine for 5k miles now.
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      05-06-2021, 08:39 AM   #64
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EL Jeffe 5 View Post
How did you get all wheels off the ground with out car falling off from one of the stands
I jacked up the front to the lowest point on the stands with parking brake set, then jacked up the back to the lowest point, then just inched my way up. I have two jacks and 4 stands though. In the past I was able jack the front into position then jack the rear into position when only using one jack. But I like to keep the jack under the car when I'm under it. Even if it's in a bad spot I only apply the pressure and don't lift on the point just as a safety. I would rather the jack go through the bottom of the motor than the car accidentally fall on my face. Just my preference though.
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      05-06-2021, 11:12 AM   #65
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Quote:
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How did you get all wheels off the ground with out car falling off from one of the stands
I jack up the front with the parking brake set and rears chocked, put the stands under the front jack pads, and then jack up the rears. It really helps if your jack can roll freely, so that instead of pulling the car to compensate for the arc, the jack just rolls with the arc, which is what the intended design is to begin with. Also, quality jack stands help even more. ESCO's jack stands have overall a really wide base and nice large contact pad.
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      05-08-2021, 09:48 PM   #66
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I completed my round of trans fluid changes today with the pan/filter and mechatronic sleeve replacements. FYI, the mechatronic sleeve was a real pain in the butt, mostly because I couldn’t figure out how to remove it. There is a metal release lever that has to be pulled down otherwise the sleeve is locked in place. You have to remove the fluid reservoir cylinder, just behind the mechatronic unit under the pan (3 bolts and one electrical plug) to gain access to the lever, which is held down with one bolt. After you do this the sleeve can be pulled out and replaced.
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