[Simple5]

So I have been searching around for slotted and drilled rotors and finally found a place that sells at a good price and right now they have a 30% off sale until 9/08!

Breakdown:

550i brakes full slotted and drilled WITH ceramic pads for $555.99 shipped!

535i SAME set-up for $401.99 shipped!

528i SAME set-up for $386.99 shipped!

Use coupon code media31for an extra 5 bucks off!

http://brakeperformance.com/

Pic of the set-up I bought. PLEASE note I do not work for these guys just giving members here a heads up!

[lsturbointeg]

Wait..
That's for all 4 rotors?

Just checked it out...that's a pretty good deal!

[Simple5]

The black and silver rotors are going to look great on my car!

[lsturbointeg]

I hear ya! When my wheels come in I also wanted to upgrade the rotors just for pure aesthetics reasons! But my dealership would void my warranty because i already inquired so I have to wait
Definitely post some pictures when u do! R u installing them yourselves? How are u going to bypass the ebrake?

[Zer0Cool92]

Do the brakes on the f10 need to be put on by a dealer or can any Indy shop do it?

Any sensor programming or something only a dealer can do ?

[lsturbointeg]

The fronts can be done but on another thread they mentioned about the ebrake being an issue?

[Simple5]

Here's an entire diy on how to bypass the ebrake for the rears. The fronts are just like everything else.

http://f10.5post.com/forums/showpost...5&postcount=42

No programming of the brake pad sensors are far as I am aware of...

[Pavit]

Originally Posted by lsturbointeg

The fronts can be done but on another thread they mentioned about the ebrake being an issue?

Afaik, the ebrake becomes an issue for the rear when trying to retrofit M5 Ceramic brakes!

[wrickem]

It looks like I'm the only one who HATES slotted and drilled rotors on a regular car (track cars benefit from them) They are a PITA when you wash your car, the water gets caught in the slots/holes , gets that little surface rust in minutes, no matter what you do to dry them, then they shoot "poo-water"around the inside of the rims. I've got 2 cars that came with them and I wish they didn't.

[lsturbointeg]

Originally Posted by Simple3

Here's an entire diy on how to bypass the ebrake for the rears. The fronts are just like everything else.

http://f10.5post.com/forums/showpost...5&postcount=42

No programming of the brake pad sensors are far as I am aware of...

Awesome!

[Zer0Cool92]

Originally Posted by lsturbointeg

Awesome!

What do you mean by bypass? So will the e brake still be functional ?

[Simple5]

Bypass was a bad word to use. It just lets you get to the ebrake actuator mechanically instead of electronically.

[Autobuffoonery]

I just ordered rear cross drilled rotors and ceramic pads for my 550i. I'll be doing the install myself using the DYI thread posted. I can post some pics if someone is interested, just let me know what you want to see. My order will be shipping from Cali so I will assume they should be here by Thursday or Friday and after I get the rotor hats machined I will do the install.

[Autobuffoonery]

Originally Posted by Simple3

So I have been searching around for slotted and drilled rotors and finally found a place that sells at a good price and right now they have a 30% off sale until 9/08!

Breakdown:

550i brakes full slotted and drilled WITH ceramic pads for $555.99 shipped!

535i SAME set-up for $401.99 shipped!

528i SAME set-up for $386.99 shipped!

Use coupon code media31for an extra 5 bucks off!

http://brakeperformance.com/

Pic of the set-up I bought. PLEASE note I do not work for these guys just giving members here a heads up!

My bad!!! Thanks for the heads up!

[Simple5]

Originally Posted by Autobuffoonery

I just ordered rear cross drilled rotors and ceramic pads for my 550i. I'll be doing the install myself using the DYI thread posted. I can post some pics if someone is interested, just let me know what you want to see. My order will be shipping from Cali so I will assume they should be here by Thursday or Friday and after I get the rotor hats machined I will do the install.

You will probably get to it before I do. Please post a stand alone DIY!

[493263]

Originally Posted by wrickem

It looks like I'm the only one who HATES slotted and drilled rotors on a regular car (track cars benefit from them) They are a PITA when you wash your car, the water gets caught in the slots/holes , gets that little surface rust in minutes, no matter what you do to dry them, then they shoot "poo-water"around the inside of the rims. I've got 2 cars that came with them and I wish they didn't.

Can confirm this. I tried slotted and drilled before on my garage queen for looks. If you try to use these things for your daily driver(which I also did), it's not a good idea unless you live in California or similar places.

The slotted rotors are ok but it'll make dust and eat pads faster. The cross drilled rotors tend to crack and cause banding since most of the ones you see are cheaply made. http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=1340727

Both the slots and drill holes will have permanent rust if you don't paint it with high temp paint before installing. Sometimes, these rotors will actually worsen your braking power.

I highly recommend not trying this if you live in the North East because it's more problems than it's worth. Unless, of course, it's your garage queen.

Please do not take these rotors to the track either. It's not safe.

The real stuff is very expensive but you probably already know this. The best mod, in the F10, to stop faster is replacing the oem runflats.

[Autobuffoonery]

Originally Posted by 493263

Can confirm this. I tried slotted and drilled before on my garage queen for looks. If you try to use these things for your daily driver(which I also did), it's not a good idea unless you live in California or similar places.

The slotted rotors are ok but it'll make dust and eat pads faster. The cross drilled rotors tend to crack and cause banding since most of the ones you see are cheaply made. http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=1340727

Both the slots and drill holes will have permanent rust if you don't paint it with high temp paint before installing. Sometimes, these rotors will actually worsen your braking power.

I highly recommend not trying this if you live in the North East because it's more problems than it's worth. Unless, of course, it's your garage queen.

Please do not take these rotors to the track either. It's not safe.

The real stuff is very expensive but you probably already know this. The best mod, in the F10, to stop faster is replacing the oem runflats.

I just wanted to Adress your concerns, theses rotors are centric brand and are not cheaply made. I have them on the front of my heavy ass 550 and they work better than the stock rotors which warped really bad. These rotors are made of high carbon steel and are machined and balanced to tight tolerances, they are painted on the rotor hats, in the vanes and the cross drilled holes. So I'm not concerned with rust and don't have any rusty water spewing on my rims. I drive my 550 really hard, they say "ultimate driving machine" and I prove it to myself everyday it is. The stock rotors are known for being crap, just do a search and you'll find the threads from here and other forums. Are there better "yes" but At 5k-6k for a whole new set up im not interested, these will work just fine to replace the stock rotors. Im not one of those people who thinks because they're crossed drilled they must be better, I can in no way say it makes a difference in performance, but I have stopped from 140+ many times and there's no warping. I've been a mechanic for 20 years and I know how brakes work and what ruins them. I also run ceramic pads as they create little to no brake dust, the only reason semi metallics have more initial bite is because every time you step on the brakes the tiny metal particles are wearing the rotor and pads which creates more friction and hence the brake dust. Believe me after a few days of driving with ceramics you forget all about that initial bite and start to love not having brake dust. Ceramic pads last longer and don't wear out your rotors as fast because they don't have the tiny metal particles. I'm sure there are cheap cross drilled rotors that rust and warp but these centric rotors are good, just do a search m5 owners use them, m3 owners use them and z3 plus many other car enthusiast.

[Autobuffoonery]

The slotted rotors are ok but it'll make dust and eat pads faster. The cross drilled rotors tend to crack and cause banding since most of the ones you see are cheaply made. http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=1340727


Also this thread does not apply to all cross drilled rotors, the rotors in the thread are way past their prime and should have been replaced long ago. The OP also states he bought them used from another member who crashed thier car, so how long were they in use? This was a typical bashing thread where users were to blame.

[lsturbointeg]

Thanks for the insight! Pure aesthetics for me but if these rotors are better than the other cheap rotors out there than cool! definitely post some pictures if I plan to do a DIY... the more DIY the merrier!

[ezaircon4jc]

Have cross-drilled/slotted rotors on our LS with ceramic pads. Dust is almost imperceptible. I don't notice any lack of initial bite. I had Porterfield pads before and initial bite was horrendous. After a second of wondering if they were going to bite or not, they grabbed hard enough to feel like you were going through the windshield! They just needed a little heat.

When the brakes are on my dime I will be getting ceramic pads and (maybe) slotted rotors.

[Autobuffoonery]

Originally Posted by lsturbointeg

Thanks for the insight! Pure aesthetics for me but if these rotors are better than the other cheap rotors out there than cool! definitely post some pictures if I plan to do a DIY... the more DIY the merrier!

No problem mine are for pure aesthetics too, they just happen to be better than stock.

[493263]

Originally Posted by Autobuffoonery

I just wanted to Adress your concerns, theses rotors are centric brand and are not cheaply made. I have them on the front of my heavy ass 550 and they work better than the stock rotors which warped really bad. These rotors are made of high carbon steel and are machined and balanced to tight tolerances, they are painted on the rotor hats, in the vanes and the cross drilled holes. So I'm not concerned with rust and don't have any rusty water spewing on my rims. I drive my 550 really hard, they say "ultimate driving machine" and I prove it to myself everyday it is. The stock rotors are known for being crap, just do a search and you'll find the threads from here and other forums. Are there better "yes" but At 5k-6k for a whole new set up im not interested, these will work just fine to replace the stock rotors. Im not one of those people who thinks because they're crossed drilled they must be better, I can in no way say it makes a difference in performance, but I have stopped from 140+ many times and there's no warping. I've been a mechanic for 20 years and I know how brakes work and what ruins them. I also run ceramic pads as they create little to no brake dust, the only reason semi metallics have more initial bite is because every time you step on the brakes the tiny metal particles are wearing the rotor and pads which creates more friction and hence the brake dust. Believe me after a few days of driving with ceramics you forget all about that initial bite and start to love not having brake dust. Ceramic pads last longer and don't wear out your rotors as fast because they don't have the tiny metal particles. I'm sure there are cheap cross drilled rotors that rust and warp but these centric rotors are good, just do a search m5 owners use them, m3 owners use them and z3 plus many other car enthusiast.

You didn't address anything actually. You just describe how it works and then claim what I said is misinformation.

1. I've never heard anyone say stock rotors are bad or have seen recurring posts about broken rotors for the F10. Other previous BMWs, yes. Don't start with the "high carbon steel..." BS. They all claim that but they don't list the actual specs.

2. No kidding that ceramic pads don't have tiny metal particles. Why do you think one is called metallic and the other is ceramic.

3. I posted the link for people to see the cracked rotor. Just picked a random pic off google search. I can guarantee you this. You will find 100x bad stories about messed up slotted and drilled rotors than not.

4. Drilled rotors cannot be better than non cross drilled motor of the same material. Its structural integrity is compromised by drilling! duh!. That's why those drilled and slotted rotors built for racing is so expensive; they have to use much tougher materials to make it so it cost thousands. There's no such thing is +30% braking power over OEM. If you can prove that 30%, then I'll give you my life's savings and my 550. The bottleneck for braking in the F10 are the tires. Yeah $400 full set of rotors and brake pads that are superior than OEM rotors from BMW in every way? Are you insane? I'm not saying OEM stuff is good but you're on crack if you think some $400 aftermarket bundle is actually better. Change the tires and you'll see braking distance shrink by 20 ft or so at 70+.

5. I don't know how you can ceramic pads are easier on rotors. They are a harder compound and will wear your rotors out faster. Ask ANY real mechanic. It's also why they don't have as much dust. There's no such thing as a superior performance long lasting pad that creates less dust without creating more wear somewhere else. Physics simply won't allow it.

6. Under load, high heat, and constant stress, the semimetallic pads will win hands down. They are more consistent with less fade. Ceramic is garbage for the track or heavy duty. This is BASIC knowledge of brake pads. People, including me, buy ceramic pads for lower dust and less noise. That's appealing for daily drivers.

7. Rotor warping is not really about the rotor physically warping in nearly every case. Your claim of going 140 and slamming the brakes to test it is probably BS. If you know anything about judging braking performance, it's not about warping if you brake "many times at 140+". It's about FADING.

8.... You know what. I'm just going to stop there because I would have to write an entire essay if I keep going. The point is you are so wrong on most of what you say that it's quite alarming and I am sad to see people actually believe you. Like seriously, anybody can simply look up this stuff with a simple google search like this one http://www.autoanything.com/brakes/t...-metallic.aspx

Here's what I can tell. You are probably not a real mechanic; or you are a really bad one upselling products to make an extra buck. Maybe you're just trying to sound cool on the internet. Whatever you do, please do not mislead people with false information.

Like I said, buy them if you want aesthetics but don't count on better performance. I'm willing to bet if you buy this bundle and run it on the track, it will actually perform worse than the OEM brakes. If you run it hard on the track, it will eventually fade and/or crack, but it probably won't warp like this guy is trying to convince you.