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2010 2011 BMW 5 Series Forum F10 BMW 5-Series (F10) Forums General 5-Series Sedan and Wagon (F10 / F11) Forum All door locks no working
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      01-11-2017, 01:27 PM   #1
Panos5
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All door locks no working

Yesterday after returning to my recently locked car, my driver's door lock wouldn't open even with a double exterior handle pull. I realized that when locking and unlocking the car the passenger doors locks where staying up. The lights would flash and the horn would beep as usual.
I was able to open the drivers door with the mechanical key. The driver's door will lock on command but not unlock without the mechanical key. I manually pushed the other 3 door locks down and they havent unlocked since. The car starts up fine so I doubt its the car battery. I've read of single door actuators failing but all 4 at once is too coincidental. I also read that weak key fob battery can lead to soft touch feature problems but if the car receives the remote signal or if the interior central lock button is pressed, I'm not sure how the FOB battery plays a role. I plan to change them shortly anyways. Any other things I should check? Any particular fuses that have been known to cause this when blown? There are 10+ door lock fuses listed and the ones in the glovebox are going to be fun without the passenger door open....
Thanks in advance!

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      01-16-2017, 03:01 AM   #2
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The light blue 15amp fuse caused mine to fail. Check that first.
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      01-16-2017, 02:52 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by delje08 View Post
The light blue 15amp fuse caused mine to fail. Check that first.
Yup that was it! A slight pain to reach that fuse without the passenger door open. So just change the fuse and leave it? usually fuses dont blow for nothing. Should i be looking for the slow door lock button and change that actuator before it seizes and while I can still open the doors?
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      01-17-2017, 02:33 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Panos5 View Post
Yup that was it! A slight pain to reach that fuse without the passenger door open. So just change the fuse and leave it? usually fuses dont blow for nothing. Should i be looking for the slow door lock button and change that actuator before it seizes and while I can still open the doors?
I am noticing that in my car, when unlocking the car the drivers side little stick or poll that pops up (not sure what its called) goes up "normal". However the passenger side stick/poll goes up noticeably slower. Do you recall experiencing that type of behavior before it got this bad? I am wondering if I'm headed towards having that issue.

Last edited by mr-crown; 01-17-2017 at 05:22 PM.
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      01-17-2017, 02:46 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mr-crown View Post
I am noticing that in my car, when unlocking the car the drivers side little stick or poll that pops up (not sure what its called) goes up "normal". However the passenger side stick/poll goes up noticeably slower. Do you recall experience that type of behavior before it got this bad? I am wondering if I'm headed towards having that issue.
I did. I'm keeping an eye on it. Keep a smaller 15A fuse handy in case it goes. It's position 14 behind the glove box. I wonder if any preventative cleaning/lubing of a part of the actuator or its connector would help.

Last edited by Panos5; 01-17-2017 at 03:21 PM.
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      01-17-2017, 05:23 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Panos5 View Post
I did. I'm keeping an eye on it. Keep a smaller 15A fuse handy in case it goes. It's position 14 behind the glove box. I wonder if any preventative cleaning/lubing of a part of the actuator or its connector would help.
Got it! Thank you for the response.
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      04-05-2018, 06:27 PM   #7
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Door Lock Fuse Repeatedly Blows

I had this issue and was able to get my locks to work after replacing the 15 AMP fuse in the glove box. After the first time, they worked for another 4-5 months; however, I have now replaced that same fuse 3 times in the past week. Did anyone else have continuing issues with this? If so, were you able to pinpoint the issue? I have been reading and researching anything I can find on the internet to try to solve the issue myself. I am thinking I may have a short somewhere in the wires, possibly the ones in the driver's door leading to the locking mechanism, and I have read that maybe I just need to cover them with electrical tape. I just don't want to take apart the door panel if there is an easier fix or other possible reason that there is a surge in electricity that is causing my fuse to blow.
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      04-06-2018, 01:13 AM   #8
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As some other threads have explored, your similar problems are very likely a sticking lock actuator. When sticking, the actuator could draw too much current and blow the fuse. I have a sticking actuator right now too, but have not got around to having it replaced yet.
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      04-25-2018, 11:40 PM   #9
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Yes, my passenger door actuator went out which caused the fuse to go out. If you have to replace the fuse continuously the actuator will go out. Just a matter of which one.
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      06-10-2018, 06:59 AM   #10
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The same has just happened to me and I just need to know before I turn myself into a contortionist.

Is there no way at all to open the passenger door ?
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      06-10-2018, 04:04 PM   #11
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Quote:
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The same has just happened to me and I just need to know before I turn myself into a contortionist.

Is there no way at all to open the passenger door ?
When my right rear actuator went out the door (lock) worked mechanically just wouldn't lock electrically. As long as the door was unlocked it worked fine.
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      06-15-2018, 03:42 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mr-crown View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Panos5 View Post
Yup that was it! A slight pain to reach that fuse without the passenger door open. So just change the fuse and leave it? usually fuses dont blow for nothing. Should i be looking for the slow door lock button and change that actuator before it seizes and while I can still open the doors?
I am noticing that in my car, when unlocking the car the drivers side little stick or poll that pops up (not sure what its called) goes up "normal". However the passenger side stick/poll goes up noticeably slower. Do you recall experiencing that type of behavior before it got this bad? I am wondering if I'm headed towards having that issue.
Yes, a slow moving solenoid will definitely increase the load on the system. And, that extra load could definitely pop the fuse.
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      06-15-2018, 04:29 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JayF View Post
The same has just happened to me and I just need to know before I turn myself into a contortionist.

Is there no way at all to open the passenger door ?
It should open just by pulling the inside door handle twice, once to unlock and second should open the door. You can relock by pushing the button down.
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      06-15-2018, 04:35 PM   #14
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It's pretty typical to replace several lock solenoids on bmws if you own them for more than a few years. It seems to have gotten better in the 5s since e60 but this is no surprise to me.

If you figure out which one is in trouble, just replace it or get it replaced.
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      07-04-2018, 04:28 PM   #15
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I had a similar problem that started with the front passenger lock not unlocking. It went from that door to no door locks working. They fixed that with a fuse(not sure which one) in the glove box. 2 days later, the front passenger lock wouldn't unlock again. The dealership replaced the front passenger door lock actuator.

That seems to have fixed the problem for good.

Good luck.

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      07-04-2018, 05:36 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mr-crown View Post
I am noticing that in my car, when unlocking the car the drivers side little stick or poll that pops up (not sure what its called) goes up "normal". However the passenger side stick/poll goes up noticeably slower. Do you recall experiencing that type of behavior before it got this bad? I am wondering if I'm headed towards having that issue.
same here Driver side doesn't lock and unlock as fast as passenger side and rear
my guess is bad design
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      07-05-2018, 09:12 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TLK View Post
It should open just by pulling the inside door handle twice, once to unlock and second should open the door. You can relock by pushing the button down.
BMW doesn't talk about it much since the E34 days when they were separate buttons on the key remote, but this won't work if the car was locked from the remote the last time. I remember playing with this a bunch on my E39, and it was clearly audible with the different design in my E90.

Locking from the central lock button while in the car is a "single lock" and the doors can be opened from the inside with a double pull. Locking from the remote and arming the alarm is a "double lock" and the doors will not open with a double pull from the inside.

When "double locked" the actuator and lock mechanism rotate a different amount in a different direction and it disconnects all of the rods and bowden cables so they can't be snagged with a slim jim to open the door.

So - if you're having any issues with door lock actuators - don't wait.
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      07-05-2018, 09:14 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EL Jeffe 5 View Post
same here Driver side doesn't lock and unlock as fast as passenger side and rear
my guess is bad design
In my experience this is pre-failure. It's sufficient justification to a dealer for extended warranty replacement (front passenger in my case). As mentioned in my previous post, if it gets stuck locked at some point when you lock from the remote, you're in for a real treat to get that door open again.

If you've got a slow actuator I would at the very least open everything and try to DIY some lubrication if you're out of warranty to see if it helps.
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      07-06-2018, 08:22 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Surly73 View Post
In my experience this is pre-failure. It's sufficient justification to a dealer for extended warranty replacement (front passenger in my case). As mentioned in my previous post, if it gets stuck locked at some point when you lock from the remote, you're in for a real treat to get that door open again.

If you've got a slow actuator I would at the very least open everything and try to DIY some lubrication if you're out of warranty to see if it helps.
I have extended Warranty But still Imagine going to Store and you cant get back in the car that's hustle I don't need I may call and ask if they would cover this. thanks for heads up
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      07-06-2018, 10:14 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EL Jeffe 5 View Post
I have extended Warranty But still Imagine going to Store and you cant get back in the car that's hustle I don't need I may call and ask if they would cover this. thanks for heads up
I told them one actuator was visibly slower than the rest, and was even more pronounced in cold weather. That's all it took.
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      08-28-2018, 06:40 PM   #21
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Thumbs up I have same problem

Quote:
Originally Posted by Surly73 View Post
BMW doesn't talk about it much since the E34 days when they were separate buttons on the key remote, but this won't work if the car was locked from the remote the last time. I remember playing with this a bunch on my E39, and it was clearly audible with the different design in my E90.

Locking from the central lock button while in the car is a "single lock" and the doors can be opened from the inside with a double pull. Locking from the remote and arming the alarm is a "double lock" and the doors will not open with a double pull from the inside.

When "double locked" the actuator and lock mechanism rotate a different amount in a different direction and it disconnects all of the rods and bowden cables so they can't be snagged with a slim jim to open the door.

So - if you're having any issues with door lock actuators - don't wait.

Hi Surly
I have same problem in my (BMW 523i 2011), its appeared when i did not use the car and stopped for a whole month without work, the battery ran out and this failed.

I did jumpstart, first time from the jumpstart point and the car get running but the battery didn't recharged again, and i noted that the central lock does not work.

I went to BMW service center and replaced the battery and reprogramming the car but problem still, and they said in the service center at first you maybe have to change the (Control unit, central gateway module), and after recheck it again they said you have to change the actuators for all doors, so
- Do you think i have to change actuators?
- What is the reason behind the failure of all actuators together ?



Many thanks

Last edited by Samuel85; 08-29-2018 at 09:19 AM.
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