[Kishan]

Originally Posted by Unspec

I think you just found out why we call them stealerships

[Kishan]

Originally Posted by Sophisticated Redneck

Wow that is fast on pulling it, would probably take me all day lol. The real time is swapping over all the components: injectors, fuel pumps, turbos, endless coolant lines and wires...

I took my time and put alot in to the carbon cleanup and port & polish, which I only spent about 30min per port but there are 32 ports so 16 hours just in that not to mention the pistons, combustion chambers, lapping the valves, cleaning and painting the valve covers (I feel kinda dumb painting them, can't even see them with the stock air cleaners on it lol) took forever but eventually got it done, below are some pics you might get a kick out of.

I doubt they will replace anything they don't have to. A few things you should replace No Matter What are below:

ALL of your coils with Eldor Brand from FCP Euro (do it yourself, its easy)
Cylinder head to Cylinder head coolant line (VERY important they don't reuse this!)
Turbo oil return lines
Turbo coolant lines

Those four are the main problem child for the N63. The Turbo oil return line cover is too but that should be new already on the new engine.

As for other items, the ZF8HP transmission will give you 150+ thousand miles IF you change the oil. BMW will tell you its lifetime oil, THEY LIE. ZF makes it and tells you to change around 60-80k, now is perfect time to do it but you will need to do it yourself of take to good Indy shop.

Also now is perfect time to change your transfer case oil as well as front and rear differential fluid. Do all of this and you can expect another 70-100K miles out of her without major issues.

Update for Brand New Motor.

Just picked up Car yesterday, it runs like dream!!!!

Just following Break-in procedure until 6,000 KM.

I had to pay $2,026 out of my pocket as warranty only approved $17k.

Quite happy as I got new Vent Pipe, Oil Feed line and Coolant Hose along with Brand New Spark Plug

Now my next step is to replace Front & Rear Diff. Fluid and Transfer Case Fluid.

Asked BMW parts counter about price of Diff. fluid and I was shocked the price is outrageous. The car takes 1L in each Diff. and BMW 75W-90 is $68/Litre. And Transfer Case Fluid (DTF1) is same price as well - crazy pricing....

Any suggestion for fluids brand will be appereciated....

Please see attached pics of Invoice....

[bigtigga01]

Alright so after talking with local shops and the dealer it looks like I'm on my own. My 550i has 167K and luckily the valve seals and turbo coolant lines are the only major problems. I try to keep up with all routine maintenance on my own so I'm familiar with the layout. Independent shop has quoted around $5500 for the job but if I can replace a motor for $3000 plus additional parts and labor then why not. My issue is paying $7k-$9k for labor as I can't seem to understand the work involved. Anyway I have no warranty, high mileage, and I'm not spending $10-$12k on a car worth half of that so I'm attempting to do this at home. Based on the information in this thread I'm going to replace the turbo oil and coolants lines along with the revised coils. What about the thermostat (lower temp) and rear coolant cover plate (redesign)? Any additional information and pointers will be greatly appreciated.

[Kishan]

Originally Posted by bigtigga01

Alright so after talking with local shops and the dealer it looks like I'm on my own. My 550i has 167K and luckily the valve seals and turbo coolant lines are the only major problems. I try to keep up with all routine maintenance on my own so I'm familiar with the layout. Independent shop has quoted around $5500 for the job but if I can replace a motor for $3000 plus additional parts and labor then why not. My issue is paying $7k-$9k for labor as I can't seem to understand the work involved. Anyway I have no warranty, high mileage, and I'm not spending $10-$12k on a car worth half of that so I'm attempting to do this at home. Based on the information in this thread I'm going to replace the turbo oil and coolants lines along with the revised coils. What about the thermostat (lower temp) and rear coolant cover plate (redesign)? Any additional information and pointers will be greatly appreciated.

Sorry to here that you are on your own. Good choice to replace the short block then valve seals. Check out the video for pulling the motor -

Probably you will replace the trans oil, might as well replace transfer case and diff fluid....

Most important to replace Oil feed line. And the Coolant vent pipe, you can make your own for cheap. Just get couple feet of heater hose and a brass 'T' from hardware store and you won't have to worry about the leak. The BMW part will cost around $90.

I'm not sure about the Thermostat, but if I'm not wrong I think rear coolant cover plate comes with the new block. Check out my invoice in the previous post of the parts installed on my new motor.

[bigtigga01]

I appreciate you posting the invoice as I have used it to cross reference my shopping list from ECS. I previously replaced the coolant vent pipe with brass fitting due to coolant leaks. T3cks videos are very motivating especially when he pulls a motor out in a hour. I guess when you do it everyday you get pretty efficient at it.

[BaselessClaims]

Originally Posted by AmooManiak

Yeah, I think they are trying to take you for a ride just because they can.

Maybe you should talk to a lawyer and their attitude may change...

I would think the warranty company would step in & say something. I don't know what it's like in Canada, but in the US there's databases of databases of what parts cost & labor rates for every particular region you can think of.

I know being the only dealership in the area hurts, but I can't imagine a warranty (read insurance) company is just going to pay whatever the dealership wants to charge.

[BaselessClaims]

Originally Posted by Kishan

Update for Brand New Motor.

Just picked up Car yesterday, it runs like dream!!!!

Just following Break-in procedure until 6,000 KM.

I had to pay $2,026 out of my pocket as warranty only approved $17k.

Quite happy as I got new Vent Pipe, Oil Feed line and Coolant Hose along with Brand New Spark Plug

Now my next step is to replace Front & Rear Diff. Fluid and Transfer Case Fluid.

Asked BMW parts counter about price of Diff. fluid and I was shocked the price is outrageous. The car takes 1L in each Diff. and BMW 75W-90 is $68/Litre. And Transfer Case Fluid (DTF1) is same price as well - crazy pricing....

Any suggestion for fluids brand will be appereciated....

Please see attached pics of Invoice....

I'm not understanding the cost of the Exch short engine. $31,180 is the list price of an engine? Discounted to $7,857? Sounds fishy to me. I probably got lost in the CND to US exchange, but something doesn't sound right. Like you paid for the core & didn't get it back.

[Kishan]

Originally Posted by BaselessClaims

I'm not understanding the cost of the Exch short engine. $31,180 is the list price of an engine? Discounted to $7,857? Sounds fishy to me. I probably got lost in the CND to US exchange, but something doesn't sound right. Like you paid for the core & didn't get it back.

Yeah they just charged me $7,857 = $5852 US. I don't know if there is core charge included in that price. It's weird, but some people say the core charge is hidden to the customer....

[BaselessClaims]

Originally Posted by Kishan

Yeah they just charged me $7,857 = $5852 US. I don't know if there is core charge included in that price. It's weird, but some people say the core charge is hidden to the customer....

That was me. & it really should be. But, I thought BMW reduced the price of these engines to under $4K USD.

Still, if your warranty people paid for it, your warranty people paid for it. I'm sure they're on top of what the parts should cost.

[bigtigga01]

Thought I would post some pics of the mess that this engine can produce. We started the engine replacement this weekend and I don't know how the original drive-train was still operational with all this gunk in there. Car has 160K miles and was leaking from every seal and hose. It was cheaper to just replace the motor and I'm glad I did, although it's a pain with all the hoses and wiring.

[AmooManiak]

Looks like it was very well maintained

[Kishan]

Originally Posted by bigtigga01

Thought I would post some pics of the mess that this engine can produce. We started the engine replacement this weekend and I don't know how the original drive-train was still operational with all this gunk in there. Car has 160K miles and was leaking from every seal and hose. It was cheaper to just replace the motor and I'm glad I did, although it's a pain with all the hoses and wiring.

Ohh lord that's messed up. Probably mine would've been same. I'm glad mine got replaced and for you as well to replace the motor. Good choice. Another 100k miles before any issues....

[bigtigga01]

So after a week of blood sweat and a few tears, I got the motor swap completed. Initial startup and drive were smooth until I got a DTM with codes P15DF and P15EF. The codes indicate HPFP plausibility on cold starts and the car is now the car barely starts and runs really rough until it shuts off. Apparently I didn't read the part of how to properly uninstall and reinstall the HPFP . Has anyone else experienced this issue? Is this something that can be resolved by resetting the adaptations or do I need to buy two HPFPs?

[Kishan]

Originally Posted by bigtigga01

So after a week of blood sweat and a few tears, I got the motor swap completed. Initial startup and drive were smooth until I got a DTM with codes P15DF and P15EF. The codes indicate HPFP plausibility on cold starts and the car is now the car barely starts and runs really rough until it shuts off. Apparently I didn't read the part of how to properly uninstall and reinstall the HPFP . Has anyone else experienced this issue? Is this something that can be resolved by resetting the adaptations or do I need to buy two HPFPs?

See if this helps -

https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...l-unit/5nHHadc

[bigtigga01]

Thanks, I was following the newtis info but it didn't mention replacing the cam followers prior to installing the HPFP so hopefully this will be an easy fix once I get home.

[Kishan]

Originally Posted by bigtigga01

Thanks, I was following the newtis info but it didn't mention replacing the cam followers prior to installing the HPFP so hopefully this will be an easy fix once I get home.

[AmooManiak]

Just so you know, if you are under 120k miles, you can request re-imbursement from BMW for the HPFP replacement. They are quite expensive. I paid over $1400 from FCP Euro with lifetime warranty.

[Kishan]

Originally Posted by bigtigga01

Thanks, I was following the newtis info but it didn't mention replacing the cam followers prior to installing the HPFP so hopefully this will be an easy fix once I get home.

Did you resolved the issue?

[bigtigga01]

Yes it was the cam followers. The car ran fine when I swapped the followers from the old motor until last week when one of the oil cooler lines burst while driving. Just my luck as I could have easliy replaced those lines when the engine was out. Now I'm $1400 out as the shop has to drop the sub frame to repair.

[TinCanSailor]

Originally Posted by bigtigga01

Yes it was the cam followers. The car ran fine when I swapped the followers from the old motor until last week when one of the oil cooler lines burst while driving. Just my luck as I could have easliy replaced those lines when the engine was out. Now I'm $1400 out as the shop has to drop the sub frame to repair.

When you did the motor swap did you lower the sub frame or cherry pick it out of theengine bay? Great work, how are things going with the new motor?

[bin01123]

Originally Posted by paul_sarky

My N63 seized up on July 31st after a rod bearing overheated and failed. It was a long journey to get a new engine with the whole recall and lawsuit, but I picked up my car yesterday and the engine purrs.

I decated my cats, basically have a 3 inch hole thru them so I was worried if the dealer/warranty would deny my claim, but he only asked me if I want to replace them, I declined and they proceeded with the swap.

I think I need a new battery now, probably because its been sitting in the dealer lot 6 months dead and my carbon fiber spoiler is toast from the sun, alignment needs to be done because the steering wheel sits a little sideways when going straight, other than that I'm glad I have my car back.

The "long block" motor was a little under $4k, labor was $6.2k plus a few other parts, total was $11,200, my portion out of pocket was 500ish. This was done with my aftermarket warranty.

I'm probably one of the very first people with the new N63 engine out there

Suggestions if I should do an oil change after a 1000 miles or so? Break-in suggestions?

What was the milage on your car when the rod bearings failed?