[Sidewayz740]

Nice write up!! Thank you

[EL Jeffe 5]

Originally Posted by Sunnyc123abc

I had the ccp done. They didn't touch any of the lines.

Changing the hoses is pretty straight forward. You just have to unplug a couple sensors, intake, and vacuum hoses to get in there. The hard part was figuring out how to unscrew the hoses clamps without removing the alternator etc.

On the passenger side I had to use a really short extension to get the ratchet in the right position to slowly unscrew it. On the driver side I had to use 3 extensions so that the ratchet was basically on the passenger side of the engine making it able to turn. Two of the extensions with heads that pivoted to get the socket at the right angle because the screw clamps point downward. The third hose is pretty accessible from the front.

You will definitely need a lot of patients. I also used a little wd-40 when reinserting the new hoses to make them slide on easier. I dunno if that's bad for them or not. Here are pics of the location where the hoses connects to the motor.

part # 17127576363

Got one of the dealers nearby to pricematch.

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...e/17127576363/

$47 WTF My dealer charged my warranty $1700 to replace
that is stupid crazy

[535_BiTurbo]

Originally Posted by innosatt

Thank u to kris993tt for blazing the trail
At 54k miles I had already replaced two hoses up top which were obvious coolant leaks. I still smelled coolant cooking after exiting vehicle always. Never from motor compartment though. The smell always came from sides of vehicle so wafting from below likely from a pool being heated by engine is my guess. That and coolant low warning after a few drives pointed me to search out this post. Thank you

Now under turbos I also able to see leaks and replace the severely degraded 3/8" nylon y connecting the three 3/8" hoses with a brass 3/8" tee after about 1hr labor and 4hrs figuring out what tools are needed

Some observations
Replacing the entire part of 3 hoses would so much more difficult.
Lengthy 3/8" hose garbers will make tight job so much easier (harbor freight sells set of 1/4" 3/8" and 1/2")
The degraded nylon tee will break off inside hoses.
Thread lengthy 5" long screws diameter 1/4" then 5/16" then 3/8" in sequense then pull out of hoses to clean out the degraded nylon wall inside hoses.

This is exactly what I did!

[Nanometer]

Hey Request for someone to upload new pics? I am attempting this DIY.... thanks!

[Sunnyc123abc]

Originally Posted by Nanometer

Hey Request for someone to upload new pics? I am attempting this DIY.... thanks!

Ill try to upload the pics somewhere else. I would recommend going with the T connection solution. Getting to the clamps on the hoses that connect to the motor was a pain.

[krautmeister]

Originally Posted by DriveTrainMalfunc

I may have found a solution a little expensive but it should work.

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-ecs-part...FVhWDQodRKsKiQ

Good find... looks like a VAG part... wonder if it will fit?

Anyone have a BMW Y fitting part specs? OD / ID of the fitting? Or potentially the BMW metal version?

Here's the VAG Y fitting:

[IMG]https://c1552172.ssl.cf0.rackcdn.com/545105_x800.jpg[/IMG]

[bmwrocky]

Thank you for this great thread!

Is it necessary to deaerate the cooling circuit after disconnecting the Y-Adapter, and fix with the metal version?
(Will there run out lots of water for some reason in the moment of disconnection?)

Thank you!
Rocky

[BloomingtonFPV]

I completely drained the coolant before I did this step. I don't think there is any other way. I also used a vacuum technique to add the coolant, and even then I had to do the procedure of running the coolant circuit to completely get rid of all the air in the system.

[bmwrocky]

Thank you.
What vacuum tools did you use to fill with coolant?
Are you sure there is coming coolant out, if I disconnect the Y-Part? I mean, because the Y-part is located at a very high point.

[BloomingtonFPV]

I used this one:

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-schwaben...IaAr2fEALw_wcB

The Y is very much higher than the coolant tank, so lots will run out.

It is MUCH easier to pull the alternator (disconnect the battery first!) than to try to do this by remote tools.

[bmwrocky]

Why does the coolant liquid run out of the Y-Part if the system is cold and the y-part is very much higher than the coolant tank?

Thank you

[bmwrocky]

Any ideas?

[bmwrocky]

Hey buddy, don't leave me alone.

[Sunnyc123abc]

The turbo coolant lines are higher than that Y junction. I don't think a lot of coolant will come out but there will be some. Also don't use the bmw part to replace it with. I just did my valve seals and that Y junction that i replaced a year ago fell apart into two pieces when I touched it. Just get a 3/8 T and use the same hoses.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[bmwrocky]

Thank you!
Are you sure the 3/8" T will fit the hoses perfectly, or is the 3/8" a little too small or too big?

[Sunnyc123abc]

I thought it would be to big, but it fit perfectly.

[Sunnyc123abc]

I also replaced the top hoses to the turbos with these high temp clear coolant hoses to see if there is any air in the system. I've replaced the aux turbo coolant pump 4 times already probably due to lack of coolant flowing through it.

[BMWKing123]

My 550 recently started leaking coolant. It appears to be from the plastic Y. I was searching for a replacement hose and noticed there is now a redesigned hose that appears to be reinforced around the nipple area to prevent this issue anymore. It also looks like the hose is molded/glued so you won't have to worry about clamps either. Just wanted to put this info out there for anyone that has this issue in the future.

[itzjoker]

Originally Posted by BMWKing123

My 550 recently started leaking coolant. It appears to be from the plastic Y. I was searching for a replacement hose and noticed there is now a redesigned hose that appears to be reinforced around the nipple area to prevent this issue anymore. It also looks like the hose is molded/glued so you won't have to worry about clamps either. Just wanted to put this info out there for anyone that has this issue in the future.

This looks much easier to replace then trying to take off the crimp clamps and replace the T. Can you reach the connector on other side of alternator without removing the alternator?

I already replaced just the T with a brass one...that was a pain in the ass since the oem T will crumble.

[spielnicht]

Has anyone given this version of the coolant hose a try? Just wondering if it does hold up any better than the Genuine BMW hose before I place my order.

Originally Posted by BMWKing123

My 550 recently started leaking coolant. It appears to be from the plastic Y. I was searching for a replacement hose and noticed there is now a redesigned hose that appears to be reinforced around the nipple area to prevent this issue anymore. It also looks like the hose is molded/glued so you won't have to worry about clamps either. Just wanted to put this info out there for anyone that has this issue in the future.

[2010F07]

Do you think this would be better than just a straight t. I also looked into stainless. I think stainless may be overkill.

[spielnicht]

Thought about going this route but the rubber hose is leaking as well where it connects to the metal pipe attached to the turbo. I just ended up getting the entire hose assembly from BMW for $65. If the plastic T lasts 60k miles, I'm good with that.

Originally Posted by 2010F07

Do you think this would be better than just a straight t. I also looked into stainless. I think stainless may be overkill.