[jooobi3]

Originally Posted by John H.

How long did it take for you to get the bar?

I didn't have that choice to remove the muffler. So it took me about 2 hours to get it in. It wasn't fun lol

[someone16]

Originally Posted by jooobi3

Okay, just got them installed the other night I have not taken the car out for the test ride due the crappy weather. The front were really simple to install. However the rear was a pain in the ass. I'm assuming this is due to the different in the sizing. I'll update again once I get more seat time in the car.

Do you know what's the size of the stock stabilizer bar and the Eibach one? Does it make a big difference in the ride?

[John H.]

Just received my strut brace. It is good quality. Appears to be made for a German company, there is a sticker on underside of bar with name and address of a German Tuner. I'm sending the bar out to get polished. Have the new strut bolts, and will install the mounts todays. Will take a pic when complete.

[Sylverlee]

Originally Posted by John H.

Just received my strut brace. It is good quality. Appears to be made for a German company, there is a sticker on underside of bar with name and address of a German Tuner. I'm sending the bar out to get polished. Have the new strut bolts, and will install the mounts todays. Will take a pic when complete.

Nice will be curious if you notice a difference when it's installed.

[lsturbointeg]

Originally Posted by John H.

Just received my strut brace. It is good quality. Appears to be made for a German company, there is a sticker on underside of bar with name and address of a German Tuner. I'm sending the bar out to get polished. Have the new strut bolts, and will install the mounts todays. Will take a pic when complete.

is it the same bar from the link posted? I may order one here next month

[John H.]

prowrapper is the seller. Here is the linky...

https://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-F10-F11...72.m2749.l2649

[Unspec]

Just a heads up to those doing the bar, because it just happened to me.

Be careful when bolting down the bar. The bolts go into little wells on the brace, so you can't use your fingers to hand tighten the bolt and you need to use an extension to tighten them initially. This makes it hard to feel if the bolt is cross threaded or not. I just stripped two (one on each side) strut tower holes and now need to retap them to a size larger.

If you ever need to remove the bar to remove, for instance, the airbox, just undo one of the bolts holding the actual silver bar, loosen the other side, and then just swivel it up. It's way faster and more convenient.

[BimmerHausPerformance]

I'll have to do this as well. Excited to see what it looks like polished!

[John H.]

Originally Posted by Unspec

Just a heads up to those doing the bar, because it just happened to me.

Be careful when bolting down the bar. The bolts go into little wells on the brace, so you can't use your fingers to hand tighten the bolt and you need to use an extension to tighten them initially. This makes it hard to feel if the bolt is cross threaded or not. I just stripped two (one on each side) strut tower holes and now need to retap them to a size larger.

If you ever need to remove the bar to remove, for instance, the airbox, just undo one of the bolts holding the actual silver bar, loosen the other side, and then just swivel it up. It's way faster and more convenient.

Good looking out Unspec! I just logged on to advise same. BTW, my LH/Drivers strut mount is toast. After removing the bolts, I noticed metal shavings on them. I suspect they were impacted, installed crooked, and/or over-tightened when I had the springs done. My RH/pass mount is OK.

The torque specs on the strut mount bolts are approx. 20 ft lbs. It can be easily over-tightened by hand. Also, these bolts are set-tapping.

For those who plan to do this....Test fit the strut brace mounts, and see how the holes line up with the strut mount. I had a few that would have made the mount bolt go in crooked. Used a Dremel to to open it up a bit.

I'm debating whether to replace the strut mount or installing Helicoils. If am not mistaken, the bolts are M8x30x1.25, 10.9 grade. Are you going with a M10 or near equivalent SAE bolt?

Did not have time to pick up brace from polishing shop. I'll get it on Monday.
.

[Unspec]

Originally Posted by John H.

Good looking out Unspec! I just logged on to advise same. BTW, my LH/Drivers strut mount is toast. After removing the bolts, I noticed metal shavings on them. I suspect they were impacted, installed crooked, and/or over-tightened when I had the springs done. My RH/pass mount is OK.

The torque specs on the strut mount bolts are approx. 20 ft lbs. It can be easily over-tightened by hand. Also, these bolts are set-tapping.

For those who plan to do this....Test fit the strut brace mounts, and see how the holes line up with the strut mount. I had a few that would have made the mount bolt go in crooked. Used a Dremel to to open it up a bit.

I'm debating whether to replace the strut mount or installing Helicoils. If am not mistaken, the bolts are M8x30x1.25, 10.9 grade. Are you going with a M10 or near equivalent SAE bolt?

Did not have time to pick up brace from polishing shop. I'll get it on Monday.
.

Yea, probably going to M10. Definitely can be overtightened by hand, so don't even bother tightening them by ratchet, go straight for the torque wrench. Helicoils seem like a good option as well, might just come down to cost versus retapping.

[jooobi3]

As previously mention some of holes from does not line up perfectly. I used a step drilled and made them larger. I believe I only did this with two holes. You want to make sure you don't drilled it larger than the diameter of the nuts that's goes on them. It's fairly easy to do and yes hand tighten this before you use a ratchet. That's just common sense stuff with any bolting items.

[John H.]

I decided to go with M8 Helicoils on the strut mounts. I can get a 21/64 bit through the body sheet metal w/o cutting into it. Also, I can still utilize the stock OEM strut bolts. On eBay, found a few NOS USA-made Helicoil kits out East. I'm expecting them today.

Did pick up the strut bar from the polishing shop. Will install when I square away the mounts. It will match the other polished items in my engine bay.



.

[BimmerHausPerformance]

Pics! What kind of shop did you take this to?

[John H.]

Originally Posted by BrowBMW

Pics! What kind of shop did you take this to?

Dean's Polishing....same guys that did this....

[BimmerHausPerformance]

Nice! was the ham and cheese extra or did they throw that in?

And nice California car wash brush deal, I have the same thing lol.

[BimmerHausPerformance]

Ordered.

[John H.]

So, I managed to Helicoil driver's side strut mount. It is SOLID. Tomorrow, will do pass side, and install the bar.

Had a bit of scare, tap fell out of t-handle into the BMW engine bay abyss. Dropped the splash shield, nada. Dropped the aluminum support, nada. Found it behind a brake line on the inner engine sidewall. Man, I was really worried.

[John H.]

Originally Posted by BrowBMW

Nice! was the ham and cheese extra or did they throw that in?

And nice California car wash brush deal, I have the same thing lol.

Lol. You saw that! On way home, picked up some snacks at the supermarket.

[BimmerHausPerformance]

Originally Posted by John H.

So, I managed to Helicoil driver's side strut mount. It is SOLID. Tomorrow, will do pass side, and install the bar.

Had a bit of scare, tap fell out of t-handle into the BMW engine bay abyss. Dropped the splash shield, nada. Dropped the aluminum support, nada. Found it behind a brake line on the inner engine sidewall. Man, I was really worried.

Dropping crap down there is the worst lol.

[Unspec]

Originally Posted by John H.

So, I managed to Helicoil driver's side strut mount. It is SOLID. Tomorrow, will do pass side, and install the bar.

Had a bit of scare, tap fell out of t-handle into the BMW engine bay abyss. Dropped the splash shield, nada. Dropped the aluminum support, nada. Found it behind a brake line on the inner engine sidewall. Man, I was really worried.

How'd you drill out the hole? Just using a cordless drill?

[John H.]

Originally Posted by Unspec

How'd you drill out the hole? Just using a cordless drill?

@Unspec, Yes. Use a quality bit that cuts well. Also, be easy with the tap, I had broke one in the process. Some tools and parts used...

1.). M8x1.25 Helicoil kit, stainless inserts,#5546-8, NOS(New Old Stock) USA Made, $18 - eBay, stitapandtoolsupply
2.). Dewalt drill bit, , 21/64, item #93021, $5 - Lowe's
3.). T-handle tap wrenches, 3 pieces, item #38560, $9 - Harbor Freight
4.). Aerosal air duster spray, remove shavings from drilled holes, $2 - Micro Center
5.). Loctite Blue - for strut mount bolts.
6.) Brake cleaner -clean up area of oils.
7.) WD40 - For tap use and inserts installation.

Just finished the install. No hood adjustment needed. Came out tits.

[BimmerHausPerformance]

That looks nice, like the polished cross bars. Fair warning - that is going on my to-do list!