[Blue Angel]

I believe a wheel shop cross-threaded one of my wheel bolts a while back. I chased the thread with a tap and it held for a while, but finally stripped completely when changing to my summer wheels yesterday.

Has anyone successfully repaired the threads in a wheel hub on the F10? Helicoil sells a M14 x 1.25 thread repair insert but I thought I’d ask here before going down that road.

These fine threads are not well suited to wheel bolts… not sure why they didn’t stick with 1.5mm pitch like most others do.

[SWFLf10]

Personally, I’d replace the assembly instead of dealing with a helicoil. It may not be perfectly aligned after drilling, and it may back out when removing the wheel bolts later.

The threads are in the hub and bearing assembly, right? I would replace the pair and not worry about it anymore knowing I’ve also got new wheel bearings at the same time.

[ezaircon4jc]

Originally Posted by Blue Angel

I believe a wheel shop cross-threaded one of my wheel bolts a while back. I chased the thread with a tap and it held for a while, but finally stripped completely when changing to my summer wheels yesterday.

Has anyone successfully repaired the threads in a wheel hub on the F10? Helicoil sells a M14 x 1.25 thread repair insert but I thought I’d ask here before going down that road.

These fine threads are not well suited to wheel bolts… not sure why they didn’t stick with 1.5mm pitch like most others do.

Outside the box thinking... You could always Helicoil the hub and replace the lug bolts with studs. You would probably be fine if you red Loctite the studs into the hub. That is if you're interested in the stud conversion. Otherwise, I would probably replace the hub.

YMMV.

[bk_mike]

I just replaced both front hubs because I damaged one thread when taking the front axle out. I tried tapping the thread and I got it 99% there but it looked ever so slightly not straight. I didn’t want to put it all back together only to have to redo it later.

[cdmulders]

Originally Posted by Blue Angel

I believe a wheel shop cross-threaded one of my wheel bolts a while back. I chased the thread with a tap and it held for a while, but finally stripped completely when changing to my summer wheels yesterday.

Has anyone successfully repaired the threads in a wheel hub on the F10? Helicoil sells a M14 x 1.25 thread repair insert but I thought I’d ask here before going down that road.

These fine threads are not well suited to wheel bolts… not sure why they didn’t stick with 1.5mm pitch like most others do.

Dang - that really sucks! On a partially related note, I had to have the local shop drill out my locking wheel bolts 'cause the heads stripped on them. I'm never ever going to use those again. Not as bad as your situation, but not fun either. I'd go with replacing the hub, as annoying as that is.

[Blue Angel]

Originally Posted by SWFLf10

Personally, I’d replace the assembly instead of dealing with a helicoil. It may not be perfectly aligned after drilling, and it may back out when removing the wheel bolts later.

The threads are in the hub and bearing assembly, right? I would replace the pair and not worry about it anymore knowing I’ve also got new wheel bearings at the same time.

Yes, the hub and bearing come as an assembly. An expensive assembly!

[Blue Angel]

Originally Posted by ezaircon4jc

Outside the box thinking... You could always Helicoil the hub and replace the lug bolts with studs. You would probably be fine if you red Loctite the studs into the hub. That is if you're interested in the stud conversion. Otherwise, I would probably replace the hub.

YMMV.

I considered this when I first noticed the thread was messed up. I probably would have done the stud conversion if it were not for the fact I use different spacer setups on my winter and summer wheels. I would have had to choose which setup would have to look bad.

[Blue Angel]

Originally Posted by bk_mike

I just replaced both front hubs because I damaged one thread when taking the front axle out. I tried tapping the thread and I got it 99% there but it looked ever so slightly not straight. I didn’t want to put it all back together only to have to redo it later.

I ran a tap through mine which did clean it up, but it only lasted a couple years. If it’s something that will be constantly on your mind you made the right choice!

[Blue Angel]

Originally Posted by cdmulders

Dang - that really sucks! On a partially related note, I had to have the local shop drill out my locking wheel bolts 'cause the heads stripped on them. I'm never ever going to use those again. Not as bad as your situation, but not fun either. I'd go with replacing the hub, as annoying as that is.

Ugh, not good! Which wheel locks? The OEM are apparently bad for this. My wheel guy says he NEVER uses an impact on OE BMW wheel locks.

[Blue Angel]

So just to close the loop on this, I tried to tap the hub with a thread repair kit typically used for stripped spark plugs. This kit uses a solid tapped insert, not a wire coil, which is deformed into the newly cut threads with the provided punch.

To give it the best chance possible I drilled, aligned and threaded the tap into a 20mm wheel spacer to give it the best chance of feeding straight into the hub without twisting or being misaligned.

Long story short, the tap in this kit is not hard enough to cut the steel in the hub. A lot of work and $45 down the drain. Oh well, I think it really was worth a shot and would have worked if the tap was able to cut into the hub properly.

$525 later I installed a new Timken bearing, in the rain. Not fun, not cheap (this is Canada lol), but hey, it’s done right and I can sleep easy.

I still wish that guy at the shop was a little more patient, and that BMW had used the coarser 1.5mm threads on these bolts.

[cdmulders]

Originally Posted by Blue Angel

Ugh, not good! Which wheel locks? The OEM are apparently bad for this. My wheel guy says he NEVER uses an impact on OE BMW wheel locks.

I think they were the OEM - they came with the car when I picked it up new from the dealer. I used them out of habit and not because I was overly worried about someone stealing my wheels. Long story short - I had to use a breaker bar to remove the bolts and wheel locks after a winter season, and I even managed to deform the wheel lock without using an impact driver - the bolts were that stuck into the hub. I'm pretty sure that the shop over-torqued the bolts when there were installed and maybe some rust did the rest. Since then, and after I had the same shop remove the deformed and/or stuck bolts and locks, I've done all my own wheel changes when going from winter to summer wheel/tires and back.

[Blue Angel]

Good approach! No cross-threaded bolts when you diy!

[n3985]

Sorry to hear your tap didn’t work.

FWIW I used this one on my stripped hub and it cut through like butter.

ARES 70692 - Limited Access Thread Chaser - Fits M14 x 1.25mm Size Plugs - Perfect for Spark Plug Holes in Confined and Limited Access Areas https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077MMG9CL...7C23A5TKHXWQ8Q

[Blue Angel]

So after the cross-thread incident I did successfully re-tap the bolt hole to M14 x 1.25, it was when trying to enlarge and tap for the threaded insert that the new tap didn’t work. I’m not sure exactly which size it was as it was non-standard, but it’s about M17 x 1.25. The larger tap in the kit failed - I believe it was only meant for cutting threads in aluminum cylinder heads.

[SWFLf10]

Originally Posted by Blue Angel

So after the cross-thread incident I did successfully re-tap the bolt hole to M14 x 1.25, it was when trying to enlarge and tap for the threaded insert that the new tap didn’t work. I’m not sure exactly which size it was as it was non-standard, but it’s about M17 x 1.25. The larger tap in the kit failed - I believe it was only meant for cutting threads in aluminum cylinder heads.

Did the kit come with a drill bit as well to use before tapping? My guess if not is that they designed it only for aluminum heads, as mentioned above, to allow you to create less metal shavings to be retrieved in the cylinder bore by not having to drill first.

I work on large gas turbines in power plants and regularly have to repair threads with heli-coils in extremely hard metal. I’ve never seen a thread repair kit without a properly sized drill bit included if it’s sold as a kit.

Glad to hear you are back on the road again though! I trust only one person in my area to reinstall my wheels correctly. I’ve had issues in the past with overtorqued lug bolts.

[Blue Angel]

No, it’s a self-drilling design so I looked up the drill sizes recommended for other 1.25mm threads and worked backwards from there. Even with a drilled hole rounded up to the next largest 32nd of an inch the tap failed, even with the diy spacer guide I prepared for it.

I honestly thought this had a good chance at success since the tap certainly seems like hardened steel (passed the scratch test with a drill bit) and the hub is most likely not hardened steel (the other tap chased the threads easily.

I’ve tapped lots of holes but there’s still a chance I did something wrong, though it’s much easier for me to just blame the tap! Lol.

Anyway, it was a learning experience. I wouldn’t let this persuade me from trying something similar again, but I would definitely make sure to try a proper helicoil kit with a standard tap and drill combo.

[Hellboy550i]

Originally Posted by Blue Angel

So after the cross-thread incident I did successfully re-tap the bolt hole to M14 x 1.25, it was when trying to enlarge and tap for the threaded insert that the new tap didn’t work. I’m not sure exactly which size it was as it was non-standard, but it’s about M17 x 1.25. The larger tap in the kit failed - I believe it was only meant for cutting threads in aluminum cylinder heads.

BlueAngel thanks for sharing your whole experiance , i have cross threaded my 2014 F10 550i , am now scared to remove my wheel to change tyres cause if i remove i wont be able to put it back , so in order to fix the thread should i use M14 *1.25 or M17 * 1.25 tap, and did u do by hand or impact wrench..? am also planning to convert into strut conversion, suggest me some strut conversion kit if you know.

[Blue Angel]

I used a M14x1.25 tap to chase the threads once I knew they were messed up. The M17 was only for the threaded insert.

I looked at a bunch of stud conversions but never pulled the trigger. I use spacers for my summer wheels, but my winter wheels (408M) have a staggered offset and I don’t use spacers on the rear, so a stud conversion would look funny I think.

I forget now who had them. 14x1.25 is less common so not too many options.

[EV86]

Originally Posted by Blue Angel

So after the cross-thread incident I did successfully re-tap the bolt hole to M14 x 1.25, it was when trying to enlarge and tap for the threaded insert that the new tap didn’t work. I’m not sure exactly which size it was as it was non-standard, but it’s about M17 x 1.25. The larger tap in the kit failed - I believe it was only meant for cutting threads in aluminum cylinder heads.

I used a similar kit for my F150 heads after I blew two sparkplugs!
Thanks for sharing your ordeal!

[Hellboy550i]

Originally Posted by n3985

Sorry to hear your tap didn’t work.

FWIW I used this one on my stripped hub and it cut through like butter.

ARES 70692 - Limited Access Thread Chaser - Fits M14 x 1.25mm Size Plugs - Perfect for Spark Plug Holes in Confined and Limited Access Areas https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077MMG9CL...7C23A5TKHXWQ8Q

n3985 I saw this in auto zone will this work ?

[n3985]

Originally Posted by Hellboy550i

n3985 I saw this in auto zone will this work ?

It is the right size, you’ll have to tell us if it cuts well.

[ChiltiCoatl89]

about 340$ USD for a new one at least for the front hub(s). Is your 535D an Xdrive or is it RWD?