[BurrNinja]

It was pretty simple removing the old axle. I had to do both fronts. I ended up removing the struts for more room. I watched this vid for an idea of what's needed. Some parts he did i skipped.

[technician117]

I don't know why everyone has insisted on removing the brakes? It's a waste of time unless (and I mean no offense) you're too weak to move the assembly out of the way as you remove/install the axle.

I also agree that there's no need to remove the tie rod end or any balljoints. I just did both axles on my Dad's 535i yesterday. After doing the basics - skid plates, shields, wheel, axle bolt, I removed the lower control arm from the strut and the subframe and the upper connection for the swaybar link. This gives enough room to get the axles out. The passenger side is a bit tricky but would be super easy with a helper to stabilize/pull the knuckle assembly out of the way while you wrestle the axle out since it's so long.

All in, the job took about 4 hours to do both sides including replacing both axle seals for piece of mind since the car has 120k on it. Didn't want to risk damaging an "old" seal, so I replaced them.

[felixcn]

The medium difficulty for DIY, but it takes time to disassemble, be careful not to damage the ball head.
I bought a BMW front outside CV BOOT, which cost 100 Euros, in the BMW store. that is GKN part.

So you can buy that ONLINE. The same one just cost half.
Special tool M17, and a weighty hammer,
If you just replace the outer cv boots, you don’t need to remove the bottom shell and axle.
I followed the ISTA guidelines to dismantle them, but obviously, this is not needed,

[Houranimd49]

I know this is an older thread but I changed my axle with a rebuilt one, and it won’t go in all the way. It engages in the differential fine but it won’t seat completely. Diff fluid leaks out. Tried everything and I don’t know why it won’t go in completely. Any thoughts?

[n3985]

After watching this video I changed my passenger front axle with a buddy today.

https://youtu.be/e5ClRgZ08rQ

The video is essentially what tomjrau described earlier in the thread.

TLDW = only remove the two bolts for the lower rear control arm which hold the shock. Swing entire assembly out of the way and knock out the axle. Insert new axle and push until there is 1 inch gap. Install hub side of axle into spindle, hand tighten axle bolt, then use the spindle assembly to push axle into place.

Will take about 2 hours which is much shorter than the “official” method.

[Houranimd49]

I replaced my axle 5 times. Yes. 5 times.

The best way to get at it is to remove the bolt that holds the strut at the lower control arm, and then remove the bolt that bolts the front torsion control arm (the weird curved one) so you can displace the entire assembly away. I used a Jack to raise the assembly and hold it out of my way while maneuvering the axle out.

You’ll need a hammer to tap the axle out.

It’s honesty not that bad of a job, but definetly an annoying one.

I got my axle rebuilt by a local company by me who does nothing but rebuild axles. I wouldn’t do anything other than OE (I learned my lesson using Asian equivalent).

[SocomCA]

Originally Posted by Houranimd49

I replaced my axle 5 times. Yes. 5 times.

The best way to get at it is to remove the bolt that holds the strut at the lower control arm, and then remove the bolt that bolts the front torsion control arm (the weird curved one) so you can displace the entire assembly away. I used a Jack to raise the assembly and hold it out of my way while maneuvering the axle out.

You’ll need a hammer to tap the axle out.

It’s honesty not that bad of a job, but definetly an annoying one.

I got my axle rebuilt by a local company by me who does nothing but rebuild axles. I wouldn’t do anything other than OE (I learned my lesson using Asian equivalent).

Why didnt you just use the 2 year BMW warranty to get a new axle from bmw if they were oem bmw axles?