[LBC28704]

Originally Posted by lsturbointeg

i went through the PDF's but maybe i missed it but what about the issue with the rear parking brake issue everyone is having? i'll re-read it again tho

this is the issue i'm referring to as i went back to the other threads:

The F10 uses a electrical brake unit to engage the parking brakes

This electrical unit needs to be retracted using the BMW computer system (ISTA) in the workshop to replace the rear brakes and it must then be put into a new mode to learn the new pads.

I dont believe this is required for the front brakes

I seem to be encountering a condition where this may be necessary.
All new OEM parts including sensor, but still seeing "Reset Impossible" with 480A14 implausibility code in ISTA+.

I've read of individuals resetting the "available pad" percentage in ISTA but I don't seem to find that function?

Any suggestions?

Thanks everyone.

[Bonawitz07]

Originally Posted by LBC28704

I seem to be encountering a condition where this may be necessary.
All new OEM parts including sensor, but still seeing "Reset Impossible" with 480A14 implausibility code in ISTA+.

I've read of individuals resetting the "available pad" percentage in ISTA but I don't seem to find that function?

Any suggestions?

Thanks everyone.

This isn't specific to using ISTA but this thread may help you. For some it took a few tries (up to 5-6 attempts) resetting the life within the dash menu, one person noted driving the vehicle, parking it without the parking brake on and then resetting which worked, and some have mentioned that the new sensor they purchased was bad (although I doubt that's your case since you bought OEM).

https://f10.5post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=634891

[LBC28704]

Originally Posted by Bonawitz07

This isn't specific to using ISTA but this thread may help you. For some it took a few tries (up to 5-6 attempts) resetting the life within the dash menu, one person noted driving the vehicle, parking it without the parking brake on and then resetting which worked, and some have mentioned that the new sensor they purchased was bad (although I doubt that's your case since you bought OEM).

https://f10.5post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=634891

It's ironic that as advanced as the technology has become, there still seems to be many instances of where things are corrected by going through the same procedure, over and over!
I've tried it several times now. I am about to try and reset in ISTA while the sensor is unplugged, and then plug in again.
It's strange that I can't seem to locate the menu selection that shows percentage available.
I've read that some have read this value as 255%, and that "resetting" the value to 100% remedied the "reset impossible" condition, which is what I am getting.

Thanks for the input.

Hopefully someone can also direct me to the data points in ISTA+!

[ciaran2kelly@gmail.com]

Hi Guys..
Im new to the forum, and will be contributing where I can.

[John H.]

Originally Posted by ciaran2kelly@gmail.com

Hi Guys..
Im new to the forum, and will be contributing where I can.

Welcome brother. Appreciate the offer very much. Looking forward to your participation. Cheers!

[allergen]

Sorry, newbie question, maybe. I read a lot about using the ISTA program(s) to access the car via ODBii and ICOM tools and the procedures to replace rear brake pads with 'manual' removal and rewinding of the EFM (Parking Brake). However there are many videos and procedures on how to 'electronically' rewind the EFM (Parking Brake) via some "Diagnostic Tool". I have used two of these tools and they do not seem to have access to this 'maintenance' function, the latest being the Foxwell NT5200 Pro. Is a 2011 535i xDrive excluded from the list of models that can have their EFM rewound, electronically? Or am I missing something? Would setting up the Rheingold SW give me access to this reported function? I have already replaced my front pads and rotors and have a fair amount of car-repair experience. I was hoping to not have to take apart the EMF, and learn more on how to access the car's electronics through the OBDii. Thanks in advance. Allergen

[allergen]

Update: I went ahead and performed the rear brake replacement. I had to manually remove the Electronic brake motor and rewind the cylinder by hand to complete the project, on each side. All is well, but I still would like feedback regarding my original question.

[Bonawitz07]

Replaced pads, rotors, and sensors at all four corners this weekend using the sets available from FCP Euro (Zimmerman coated rotors, Akebona ceramic pads. BOWA sensors). Braking is now smooth as butter. Thought I'd add a few things for those that come across this thread.
First, this was on a 2015 528 xdrive without the high speed brake system. Left the car unlocked with the parking brake off. Jacked up both front wheels using front jack point (square metal plate on bottom). The front caliper bracket bolt size was 18MM and the caliper slides took a 7MM Hex bit. Take note of how the sensor wire runs before removal. When replacing everything, I found it easiest to put the sensor node on the internal pad, run the wire through the opening in the caliper, and then install the caliper body. Waiting until everything was put back on didn't leave a lot of room to install the sensor node. Some have found it difficult to replace the clips at the end. I found it easiest to push in the two middle pieces, hold them down and then pull the top and bottom pieces to their spots with a pliers.
Regarding the rears, both sides contained the electronic parking brake bodies. Going in, for some reason I thought only one side had it. I first removed the caliper body which was held on by 13MM bolts. I used an adjustable wrench to hold the slides tight and to keep them from spinning. The lube on the caliper slides looked good but I re-lubed them anyway with Syl glyde along with the back of the pads and contact points. Once the body was removed, removal of the parking brake body was straightforward with two torx bolts (T27 or T30 I believe) holding it in place. A T45 was required for rotating the parking brake clockwise. After that, good to push the caliper piston back. The caliper bracket bolts required an E18 external torx socket, which is something I didn't have but came in a normal set sold at HD. Rear passenger side has the sensor wire, replacement is as straightforward as the front.
When everything was put back together, I climbed in and pushed the start button once and pumped the brakes. I started the engine and luckily did not get any Parking Brake Malfunction warning. Activated and deactivated the parking brake a few times without issue. Went out for a test drive, bedded the pads, and stopped to reset the brake pad service mileage. Note: for me, this could not be done with the engine running. To get into the menus, I pushed and held the trip reset button but while the engine was running, I gained access to other menus. To reset the various service intervals, the engine should be off but the electronics on. I turned my car all the way off, then pressed the start button once, held the trip reset button and was given the Front Brake Pad service interval reset screen. Held the trip reset button to reset and held it again which started the process of resetting the mileage. Did the same for the rears. Reset worked the first time for both front and back. Hope this helps someone!

[dbmw335]

So I just changed the rear pads on my 2014 535 (F10) and did it before the sensor was triggered (e.g. I had 1,200 miles left before needing replacement and the sensor on the pad was not broken). Bought the pads, but did not replace the sensor as it was not worn.

When I tried to reset the service interval for the pads via the odometer button on the dash, I received the message that "reset unsuccessful".

Searching on the web I found a procedure that allowed me to successfully reset as follows:

1) Disconnect the brake sensor harness inside the service door on the right rear wheel well (like you would if you replace the sensor)
2) Use a thin wire to jump the connector on the car (e.g. make it a closed circuit) where you just disconnected the harness.
3) Reset the service indicator via the odometer button on the dash.

It will now reset properly!

4) Remove the jumper wire and plug the sensor back in.

Note - do not do this if your sensor has been activated (e.g. the plastic has been worn through and exposed the wire). In that case you let the pads get too worn and you must replace the sensor.

Good luck and perform at your own risk.

[OrcaPod]

Originally Posted by Bonawitz07

...
Once the body was removed, removal of the parking brake body was straightforward with two torx bolts (T27 or T30 I believe) holding it in place. A T45 was required for rotating the parking brake clockwise. After that, good to push the caliper piston back.
...

thanks a lot for the write ups, guys! This gives me some confidence as i'm planning to get rear rotors/pads done this weekend.

Do I need to rotate parking brake counter clockwise (opposite to what's quoted above) after caliper piston is pushed back?

Also manual form my BMW 528i 2011 F10 on https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/f...brakes/GaoehvF
says to renew screws for calipers? Do I need to get brand new screws or can I just re-use existing ones. I need to take caliper off to replace rotors.

Release screws (1). Detach brake-caliper support .Installation note: Renew screws.


sorry for dumb questions as i never done this before.

[Bonawitz07]

Originally Posted by OrcaPod

thanks a lot for the write ups, guys! This gives me some confidence as i'm planning to get rear rotors/pads done this weekend.

Do I need to rotate parking brake counter clockwise (opposite to what's quoted above) after caliper piston is pushed back?

Also manual form my BMW 528i 2011 F10 on https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/f...brakes/GaoehvF
says to renew screws for calipers? Do I need to get brand new screws or can I just re-use existing ones. I need to take caliper off to replace rotors.

Release screws (1). Detach brake-caliper support .Installation note: Renew screws.


sorry for dumb questions as i never done this before.

Not sure if there’s a difference between 2011 and 2015 but I did not rotate the parking brake counterclockwise after pushing the piston back. Just put everything back together with it rotated all the way clockwise and had no parking brake issues.
Don’t think you need new screws for the calipers as long as they’re in good shape. Just make sure that when everything is put back together they are able to slide. Regarding the screws, my fronts were not greased when I pulled them out but the rears were. I put just a little on the fronts and the normal amount on the rear screws. If they’re referring to the larger bolts that hold the caliper support bracket, no need to gets new ones there either.

[OrcaPod]

Thanks for the response, Bonawitz07 !
I successfully replaced rear rotors and brakes on weekend. Took me more than i expected as I had troubles removing bolts holding caliper brackets.

Also I used Foxwell NT510 (BMW version) to retract electronic parking brake unit prior to removing rear brakes.
It has a function for this service and worked like a charm so I didn't have to de-assemble and re-wind the electronic brake body on each side ( I still had to push the rear pistons though (same procedure as as on front brakes)).

[535_BiTurbo]

great info

[TitanLH8]

Just changed my rear brakes over the weekend following the instructions and tips in this thread. Everything went smoothly except when everything was back in place and I started the car, I got the dreaded Parking Brake malfunction warning.

I tried different solutions (i.e removing/checking Parking Brake fuses, 5sec button hold, and even removed the electronic brake motor again to make sure the brake piston was rewound all the way) but still no luck. Any thoughts or tips on what to try next?

[Bonawitz07]

Originally Posted by TitanLH8

Just changed my rear brakes over the weekend following the instructions and tips in this thread. Everything went smoothly except when everything was back in place and I started the car, I got the dreaded Parking Brake malfunction warning.

I tried different solutions (i.e removing/checking Parking Brake fuses, 5sec button hold, and even removed the electronic brake motor again to make sure the brake piston was rewound all the way) but still no luck. Any thoughts or tips on what to try next?

Did you lock the car prior to starting? I've read this can cause the warning since when locking, the car will cycle the electronic parking brake and after the job is done it senses it's not in the same place. There's a write up on another site from someone who got the light after doing the job. He went back in and, if memory serves, rotated the parking brake back out half way. Try and find that if you can. Otherwise you may need a tool to reset the parking brake or take it to an Indy.

[TitanLH8]

Originally Posted by Bonawitz07

Did you lock the car prior to starting? I've read this can cause the warning since when locking, the car will cycle the electronic parking brake and after the job is done it senses it's not in the same place. There's a write up on another site from someone who got the light after doing the job. He went back in and, if memory serves, rotated the parking brake back out half way. Try and find that if you can. Otherwise you may need a tool to reset the parking brake or take it to an Indy.

No I didn't lock the car before working on my brakes. I did try unwinding halfway again on both sides but still getting the same error message. I may have to bring it to a shop to get it reset.

[vuthy335]

I did my rear brakes pad and rotor replacement a couple months ago. I put the car on a lift without the e-brake on. Did everything manually rewinded the part holding pads manually back and installed the pads to the new rotors with new sensors. Put the car down and reset the service light via the gauge cluster. No problem. Didn't use ista or any program to reset or anything. I believe if done manually correctly, there's no need for any programs for reset. Been driving now with no error code or anything.

[rahdigga165]

My mechanic used a car battery and speaker wire to retract the brake actuator.."old mechanic tricks"
not one single brake light..

[ey2001]

After you put the rear brakes into workshop mode from ista... push the piston back and install the pads... do you do to do anything else? I am planning to do my brakes this wknd and wanted to know how people did it using ista.

[Unspec]

Originally Posted by ey2001

After you put the rear brakes into workshop mode from ista... push the piston back and install the pads... do you do to do anything else? I am planning to do my brakes this wknd and wanted to know how people did it using ista.

Workshop mode, push piston back. Do the pads. Disengage workshop mode. That's what I did and had no problems. For the disengage part, make sure you don't hear the actuator running before moving forward with each step.

Edit: It's extremely important you do not push the piston back without workshop mode engaged. You WILL snap the parking brake rod.

[meverick]

thanks!!!

[oileakz]

This is great, I'm happy I found this thread. I'm planning to do my OFH gasket and belt soon. The brakes were also on my list - I totally forgot that I deactivate the parking brake actuators