[PNW_F10]

Evening all,

Super excited I landed this F10 MSport with 68k miles for $23k in the color combo I wanted.

I'm going to replace the charge pipe and water pump / thermostat next week as a preventative. Just got Pilot AS4s on it for PNW rain they grip well. Everything else checks out clean.

What do you guys recommend for a tune and exhaust? I have a buddy that has a 2013 335is and I love the exhaust burble. I just want something that when I put it in sport+ it gets aggressive. Anything else not obnoxious, I'm getting older so don't want an annoying car lol. Not trying to go nuts here, but would like another 100HP and better sound then I'm done. Everything else is mint, love this car for a second option to my daily, previous was an E46 M3, which I loved, but again getting older!

Advice appreciated! I am going with the non-OEM Charge pipe.

Appreciate it.

[95blkmax]

Congrats! Excellent idea on WP/ Tstat and CP replacements at this point.

Before you start modding make sure your maintenance is up to date. You mentioned that all was up to date, so I would assume you confirmed no leaks at the oil filter housing, oil pan, and valve cover. You'll want a fresh set of spark plugs and Eldor coils.

I don't know how restrictive WA state emissions testing are (if there's any). But to get close to that 100HP gain you'll need a catless downpipe (honestly on a stock turbo especially- a high-flow catted downpipe would be more than enough, but they are much more $$ than a catless), an upgraded intercooler (the stock one is crap and will heatsoak off a single pull), and a stage 2 tune (you have several options- JB4 piggyback, and BM3 /MHD flash tunes).

People here swear one tuning method over another and you'd think they were talking about their child lol. On stock turbo, it really is your personal choice and what you're comfortable with. I had a JB4 at first and it worked great, very consistent, user friendly and easy to install. But I wanted access to other things that only the flash tunes can, like exhaust burbles control, start-up roar, variable cooling system target temps. You do pay for those additional features though. You can snag a used JB4 for $275-$350 with bluetooth on the classifieds here. My MHD full suite came up to about $600 (don't remember exact, give or take $50). But with MHD you also don't have to go full suite. You can start with the OBD dongle ($70ish) and the Maps. Then you can add monitoring if you wish (I highly recommend). I have never used BM3 but from what I've seen on YT the user interface is MUCH nicer on MHD if you care for that.

Something else I'd recommend doing is transmission fluid replacement. You are at the ZF recommended range to replace that fluid. Some folks say never change it, but I am well aware that "lifetime fluid" is a marketing gimmick as there is no such thing as a lubricant that does not degrade with time and heat cycles. ZF recommends fluid changes- despite what auto manufacturers say. So listen to who actually built the trans, and change that fluid lol. Same goes for the differential! About 1 liter of fluid, a hand pump, and a new plug (only 1 plug on the diff, hence why you need the pump to suck out the old fluid) as the plug has an integrated seal on it that is 1-time use.

[PNW_F10]

Wow, thanks so much for the detailed guidance and response, really appreciated! Great insight, and let's me do some shopping / research as well! I'm not dead set on 100HP, just throwing that out there for now. Really just want something with some more pop to it without going overboard.

You know what you are talking about, because yes I have an oil pan leak I didn't mention which is being fixed next week as well. Good thing, I have a super trustworthy indie shop that I've know for years. They are legit.

Didn't know about doing plugs and coils, very helpful.

Here's another question I have - what is everyone's opinion on a warranty? I got a "platinum" warranty for 4200. With that, I'm a little torn on if I need it. Problem is, I don't want to drive this thing until the inevitable - charge pipe, water pump, because it is covered. I just want to do it now so its bulletproof. Very interested to hear the communities thoughts on if they are worth it. This is a pretty good warranty, also covers the turbos. Maybe I fit the bill on the preventative stuff and keep it for peace of mind for fluke things or electronics?

Will definitely change the TF, again appreciate the time and advice!

[TTG]

It looks just like my old car but mine was xdrive.

I don’t believe in tunes and etc but I did have the OEM mperformance exhaust on mine and that was the best mod for that car.

Also if you live near Seattle, I would lose the 18” wheels and swap them for 17s. That made a world of difference as the wheels you have are super prone to bending. With that many miles, most likely they all are bent already.

Reach out if you have any questions.

[95blkmax]

Originally Posted by PNW_F10

Wow, thanks so much for the detailed guidance and response, really appreciated! Great insight, and let's me do some shopping / research as well! I'm not dead set on 100HP, just throwing that out there for now. Really just want something with some more pop to it without going overboard.

You know what you are talking about, because yes I have an oil pan leak I didn't mention which is being fixed next week as well. Good thing, I have a super trustworthy indie shop that I've know for years. They are legit.

Didn't know about doing plugs and coils, very helpful.

Here's another question I have - what is everyone's opinion on a warranty? I got a "platinum" warranty for 4200. With that, I'm a little torn on if I need it. Problem is, I don't want to drive this thing until the inevitable - charge pipe, water pump, because it is covered. I just want to do it now so its bulletproof. Very interested to hear the communities thoughts on if they are worth it. This is a pretty good warranty, also covers the turbos. Maybe I fit the bill on the preventative stuff and keep it for peace of mind for fluke things or electronics?

Will definitely change the TF, again appreciate the time and advice!

That's great you have that relationship with a reputable indy.

Yes, coils and plugs in stock form aren't much a problem. But once you start messing with tunes, the added cylinder pressures really make it known when you have a bad coil or plug. So it's recommended to just have a fresh set in place before you slap a tune on it to make your life easier. You can pick up a set through FCPEuro and have lifetime warranty.

In this regard, Eldors have been established as the best N55 coils. Delphis will work fine but not as long-lasting. Definitely want to stay away from the Bosch IF by some reason your car happens to have them (it shouldn't, but I can see it happen as one going bad and previous owner went to a parts store and grabbed a cheap Bosch). Here's a good vid explaining the evolution of these coils.

You will also run into talk about going 1 step colder on the plugs (basically N20 spark plugs) for stage 2, and gapping them down to .020-.022". I can tell you from experience (because I listened to this advise and ran colder plugs at .022" for a year), that even at my level of stock turbo on Stage2+ running E40 fuel... those colder plugs and tighter gap were not necessary at all. This info really applies to folks with upgraded turbos, and even then it's hit or miss if they'll need them or not. Every car is different, so it really is a "go colder plugs with tighter gap if you find yourself needing it". Otherwise, don't waste your time. It made my cold starts and idle randomly feel like I had a misfire. So there is a downside to doing this. I switched back to stock plugs (PN -037-582), ensured they're gaps were all even at 0.03", and all idle and cold-start roughness disappeared. I have no knock/ misses on my logs even on high load 4th-5th gear pulls, so no need for colder plugs for me at this time.

I've never had an aftermarket warranty so hopefully some that have can guide you with that subject. I can tell you that if you had an N63 this would be mandatory (IMO) for that ownership. As they are so notoriously expensive to fix out of pocket. The N55s are nowhere as bad aside from the random rod bearing failure. My issue is that if that were to happen to you, given the current cost of a new N55 from BMW (about $16,500 as of last month, engine alone, not counting swap gaskets and labor), a warranty company would send out an inspector to confirm the damages before approving. What this inspector going to do when he/ she notices an intake, a downpipe, IC upgrade, CP, checks the ISTA paperwork on the diag stuff and notices "possible non-original software present"? Your engine replacement claim would likely get denied. At that point, what was the point of this $3500-$4500 warranty for (arbitrary numbers on this)? Just some stuff to consider as I see this at work. Make sure there's no disclaimer releasing them of liability in cases where aftermarket equipment is present.

[PNW_F10]

Originally Posted by TTG

It looks just like my old car but mine was xdrive.

I don’t believe in tunes and etc but I did have the OEM mperformance exhaust on mine and that was the best mod for that car.

Also if you live near Seattle, I would lose the 18” wheels and swap them for 17s. That made a world of difference as the wheels you have are super prone to bending. With that many miles, most likely they all are bent already.

Reach out if you have any questions.

Hm, good feedback. I live on the east side in Snohomish County, you are probably right they are bent, Discount Tire didn't say anything when they put my new AS4 pilots on, but they aren't always great. I LOVE the look of these wheels, but I hear you. Can I ask if you had some exhaust burble with that exhaust in sport+? I'm also considering just doing the exhaust and calling it a day.

It really is a great car either way, My interior is like no one even sat in it, the MSport steering wheel is sooooo nice!

[PNW_F10]

Originally Posted by 95blkmax

That's great you have that relationship with a reputable indy.

Yes, coils and plugs in stock form aren't much a problem. But once you start messing with tunes, the added cylinder pressures really make it known when you have a bad coil or plug. So it's recommended to just have a fresh set in place before you slap a tune on it to make your life easier. You can pick up a set through FCPEuro and have lifetime warranty.

In this regard, Eldors have been established as the best N55 coils. Delphis will work fine but not as long-lasting. Definitely want to stay away from the Bosch IF by some reason your car happens to have them (it shouldn't, but I can see it happen as one going bad and previous owner went to a parts store and grabbed a cheap Bosch). Here's a good vid explaining the evolution of these coils.

You will also run into talk about going 1 step colder on the plugs (basically N20 spark plugs) for stage 2, and gapping them down to .020-.022". I can tell you from experience (because I listened to this advise and ran colder plugs at .022" for a year), that even at my level of stock turbo on Stage2+ running E40 fuel... those colder plugs and tighter gap were not necessary at all. This info really applies to folks with upgraded turbos, and even then it's hit or miss if they'll need them or not. Every car is different, so it really is a "go colder plugs with tighter gap if you find yourself needing it". Otherwise, don't waste your time. It made my cold starts and idle randomly feel like I had a misfire. So there is a downside to doing this. I switched back to stock plugs (PN -037-582), ensured they're gaps were all even at 0.03", and all idle and cold-start roughness disappeared. I have no knock/ misses on my logs even on high load 4th-5th gear pulls, so no need for colder plugs for me at this time.

I've never had an aftermarket warranty so hopefully some that have can guide you with that subject. I can tell you that if you had an N63 this would be mandatory (IMO) for that ownership. As they are so notoriously expensive to fix out of pocket. The N55s are nowhere as bad aside from the random rod bearing failure. My issue is that if that were to happen to you, given the current cost of a new N55 from BMW (about $16,500 as of last month, engine alone, not counting swap gaskets and labor), a warranty company would send out an inspector to confirm the damages before approving. What this inspector going to do when he/ she notices an intake, a downpipe, IC upgrade, CP, checks the ISTA paperwork on the diag stuff and notices "possible non-original software present"? Your engine replacement claim would likely get denied. At that point, what was the point of this $3500-$4500 warranty for (arbitrary numbers on this)? Just some stuff to consider as I see this at work. Make sure there's no disclaimer releasing them of liability in cases where aftermarket equipment is present.

Ha, yes N63 needs warranty. I originally wanted a 550 but got cold feet on that thing.

I'm thinking the best choice is either dump warranty and go all in with the above referenced upgrades, Stage 2, and have fun with it.

Or, keep warranty and upgrade Charge Pipe, Water Pump, throw the OEM Msport exhaust and be done.

Decisions decisions. One more note, this will probably be 5k miles per year absolute max, it's not my daily. My F-150 is. :-)

Depends on the devil on my shoulder I guess.

[OnlyGerman]

Didn't read thru all that but BM3 stage 1 sounds like something for you.

[TuckerE36]

Originally Posted by PNW_F10

Ha, yes N63 needs warranty. I originally wanted a 550 but got cold feet on that thing.

Should have went with the 550i with N63TU, tuned they are a freaking blast. I highly maintain mine and had only one issue with the HPFP which is covered under BMW warranty.

[PNW_F10]

Update: My warranty is covering the oil gasket leak and water pump/therm. Getting those items done and the charge pipe on my dime as a PM so I don't have to deal with it. Also doing alignment and coil pack/plugs.
Going to let that bake in they going to just to Tune/ M Performance Exhaust and hopefully be bullet proof/fun for many miles.

[RonnieD45]

Nice! Had to pay out of pocket for my oil filter housing gasket and VCG on my 2014 535 msport. Not fun!

[Blue Angel]

Originally Posted by TTG

…I would lose the 18" wheels and swap them for 17s. That made a world of difference as the wheels you have are super prone to bending. With that many miles, most likely they all are bent already.

Those are 19" 351M wheels, they come with the M-Sport package. 18" wheels came standard.

Agreed, the original run-flat tires are hell on wheels and can lead to bends. Non run-flats don't eliminate the potential for bent wheels, but go a long way towards avoiding them.

My car came with 20" run-flats and two wheels had minor bends at about the same mileage.

[PNW_F10]

Well, as mentioned prior, the warranty (RPM plus) covered my oil filter gasket and T-Stat Water Pump. I did the aftermarket charge pipe.

Now it's decision time. I may do the aftermarket intercooler next and call it a day. I'm tempted to MHD tune and catless downpipe, I'm just worried it's going to sound like crap. I feel like if I just do intercooler my warranty will always cover anything and I can just drive this thing for years worry free with all the PM I did.

Appreciate everyone's help and opinions on this site!

[PNW_F10]

Howdy all,

Well, I went the responsible (boring) route. From this forums great recommendations, I've now done the Oil filter housing, pan, valve covers work. T-Stat, water pump, plugs, coil pack, tranny fluid, differential, charge pipe. My indy mechanic is great.

I'm going to stay away from tuning this, yeah it would be fun but I want it to be dependable. I think I'll just do the MSport exhaust and drive worry free for years. Only 72k on it, should last a long time.

Thanks for all your help!

[CrippledLucifer]

Originally Posted by PNW_F10

Howdy all,

Well, I went the responsible (boring) route. From this forums great recommendations, I've now done the Oil filter housing, pan, valve covers work. T-Stat, water pump, plugs, coil pack, tranny fluid, differential, charge pipe. My indy mechanic is great.

I'm going to stay away from tuning this, yeah it would be fun but I want it to be dependable. I think I'll just do the MSport exhaust and drive worry free for years. Only 72k on it, should last a long time.

Thanks for all your help!

The BM3 Stage 1 tune would be best for you unless you're super adamant about staying stock. You've already done so much preventive maintenance that there's no reason you shouldn't do the tune unless of course it voids your warranty. The extra power/torque from the Stage 1 remap really wake up the car and it'll for sure offer more fun if you're into that sort of thing.

[PNW_F10]

lol, killing me! Yeah, I was trying to be responsible. I do think the car needs a bit more of an edge to it.

I'd like to do the M exhaust and a tune, torn between BM3 and MHD.

Question for you all, given my current PM work, if i go stage 1 and exhaust, do I need to upgrade intercooler and downpipe?

Thanks in advance, devil on my shoulder, lol

[ctcarbonari]

I just finished all my fluid/filter changes on my 15’ 535i as well as new plugs and coils.

I’d recommend a second “dump & fill” on the transmission oil (no pan/filter) as the ZF rexommended procedure only changes out about 5 liters of the old stuff.

I got lucky on my purchase a year ago as I have the MPE (performance exhaust) and I absolutely love the deep, yet subtle sound of it.

My next phase plan is to go with MHD tune, although BM3 still consideration. Catted DP, aluminum DP, and upgraded IC.

Even just 40 more hp on this N55 engine and better lower end responses would be incredibly fun to enjoy!

Good Luck & Greetings from the PNW!

[PNW_F10]

Good stuff, sounds like we are moving in the same direction, nice color choice too. :-)

I'm also researching both MH and BM3, leaning MHD.

[SWFLf10]

I've got a 2015 535i and have had the stage 2 BM3 tune, xHP transmission tune, and high flow downpipe and M performance mufflers for a while and it's the perfect combo to me. Both performance and sound wise that is.

I am returning my car to stock because I finally got my dream car and will be listing my mods for sale soon. PM me if you're interested in anything.

[ctcarbonari]

Originally Posted by SWFLf10

I finally got my dream car

OK, I'll bite. The curiosity is killing me. lol

What did you get? (@ Dream Car)


OP: Beautiful Color Combo on your 535 too!!! I was smiling when I saw your pic. Congrats on getting the color scheme you wanted ( I know the feeling)

[PNW_F10]

Originally Posted by SWFLf10

I've got a 2015 535i and have had the stage 2 BM3 tune, xHP transmission tune, and high flow downpipe and M performance mufflers for a while and it's the perfect combo to me. Both performance and sound wise that is.

I am returning my car to stock because I finally got my dream car and will be listing my mods for sale soon. PM me if you're interested in anything.

I may be, but first you have to share with the community your dream car! I'm in Naples soon for work. I'll PM you but I would like your M Performance mufflers.

[PNW_F10]

So here's my question for you all.

If I go VRSF Intercooler and Catless Downpipe but keep my stock exhaust, any idea how it will sound?

I really don't want this thing to be obnoxious. I want a good deep growl. If I do the DP and IC, I could go stage 2. however, I don't want some obnoxious racer.

Anyone done this and have a video? Hard to find info on YT.