[BimmerHausPerformance]

As soon as I remove these stupid locking lug nuts I'll put them on!!!

These are re-valved and re-done by RedShift, so they are not "stock" BC coil overs. 1500 bucks shipped to my house.

https://store.redshiftmotorsports.co...vers-s/147.htm

[ziekxq]

I was thinking of going there coilovers for my xDrive as well since they make it for xDrive... Let us know the ride quality.

[BimmerHausPerformance]

Originally Posted by ziekxq

I was thinking of going there coilovers for my xDrive as well since they make it for xDrive... Let us know the ride quality.

Redshift or BC?

[Sylverlee]

I wonder how these compare to KWV2 V3?

[BimmerHausPerformance]

They have three way adjustables, these would be more comparable to v1's. My mech highly recommended these over the kw v1's

[lsturbointeg]

Love my KW1's!!!! KW's are the top of the list when it comes to coilovers across the board. can't wait for you to slap those on!!! post some pictures when you do!

[BimmerHausPerformance]

Headed to the garage right now, wish me luck.

[BimmerHausPerformance]

Wow, not fun. Got one done at least. I still have probably 2" of threads left I could drop it but but this is how it sits as they come. Before and after. The wheel is JUST about tucked. Hard to tell in the pic but big difference.

[lsturbointeg]

drop that b some more!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! #nowheelgapmatters!

[BimmerHausPerformance]

Do your wheels rub at all? I still have to get out of my driveway... I will go as low as I can until that is no longer possible.

[John H.]

Looks good!

[lsturbointeg]

Originally Posted by BrowBMW

Do your wheels rub at all? I still have to get out of my driveway... I will go as low as I can until that is no longer possible.

my tire sits up inside the wheel well with no scrubbing at all

[BimmerHausPerformance]

That looks awesome, but it would never make it out of my driveway.
Update, 2/4 corners done... this is not exactly fun. Especially when you don't have the folding seat option in the rear. And BMWDoubles, thanks for your youtube vid on accessing the top of the rear strut. lol.

[Luky]

Originally Posted by BrowBMW

That looks awesome, but it would never make it out of my driveway.
Update, 2/4 corners done... this is not exactly fun. Especially when you don't have the folding seat option in the rear.

Do you have Xi? What makes it not fun? I was just rotating my tires yesterday and was looking at the front struts with the wheels off as I am quoting shops to do the coilover install. (Looking to buy the Bilstein B16 PSS10 set up as it has minimal lowering).

The fronts look super easy; remove end link, 1 bolt bottom and 3 bolts top, pry open suspension (watch headlight leveling switch; it may need to be unbolted too) and it should basically pull out. The rears look almost as simple with the exception of having to pop the rear speaker out to get to the top bolts. At this point I am wondering if I want to pay a shop to do the fronts at least (save myself $300-$400 labor). What issues are you experiencing?

Also did you source shorter end links for your sways? I am shopping now but not finding anything for the rear since the BMW plastic end link is M10 bolt on one end and M12 bolt on the other.... I may have to get a set of Superpro (85-100mm) M10 end links (PN TRC1025A) and M12 end links (PN TRC1225A) and swap one end of each (then sell the "extra" set of "adjustable F10" rear endlinks) (note: F10 stock rear end link is 110mm)


Looks like Godspeed (250-310mm M12 PN SB-TR-180-12) and superpro (245-305mm M12 PN trc12200) have "universal" adjustable that should work for the front and Eibach has a 255mm-285mm M12 adjustable PN UEL-12-255HD (stock front end link is 300mm I believe).

One last observation if anyone else is considering the Bilsteins, they do not come with top mounts, top spring pads, or the front dust covers/bump stops. I finally found the installation instructions online to confirm this. (I will be buying new parts as I want to keep the original struts as full assemblies.)

[BimmerHausPerformance]

Mine is just RWD. This was not fun just in that it wasn't a quick job. Then once I got it all in, I had to take measurements, pull the wheels, and in some cases remove the rear bolt on the lower end in the back, and adjust the ride height.

There were 3 major pains here:

1. In the front in order to pull the front assembly out you have to either take the upper control arm out, or, do what I did, which was remove the upper control arm knuckle which required me to get out my grinder and create a wedge to separate it enough to pull it out.
2. In the rear the lower 21mm bolt was just about frozen on there. I had to cut a section of pipe, raise my car up even more so I could get leverage on it with my new breaker bar. Once it went, the bolt would loosen by hand which is a good thing cause it's loooong.
3. Putting the rear assembly back in is a two person job. You have the 3 bolts you are trying to fit into three holes while laying on your back and you have literally zero viability to guide them in. Once they are in, whoever you have enslaved to help you must fit their hand into the tiniest hole which they also have zero viability on, and has to get at least two nuts started.

With all that being said I would definitely encourage you to do it cause it's a satisfying job that saves you money and you get to know your car. Once I learned on one side, it took about 1/3 the time on the opposite one. I also had to build a small ramp otherwise I couldn't get my jack out from under my car, lol.

Now, for these coil overs the cool thing is that you can adjust ride height without impacting spring rate because of the way they are designed, so that was cool.

One issue I had was when I first installed them I took a drive to Atlanta, about 4 hours, and I think the rears were WAY too low as I rubbed AND I spewed out some grease from the inner CV joints. I went back and looked close and they look sealed well, but I think the angle just shoved some grease out... TBD. Anyone have any comments on that?

As far as ride, I have the fronts set to as soft a rebound as it can be and the springs are all set tight enough just so they aren't loose - this way they aren't pre-compressed. I have it as low as I can go with still being able to get out of my driveway.

Driving is awesome, I accidentally busted it loose doing about 35 around a corner and with this and the H&R sways it was 100% predictable and I was able to turn into the skid and control it very easily with no body roll. This is a HUGE improvement safety wise over stock as when this happened before I would get so much body role it would bounce back and forth and affect traction from the sheer inertia the body role would carrier with it when the body sway would finally bottom out - very unpredictable and hard to control. I feel much more in control now and if I throttle too hard in a corner I'm not going to loose it.

Overall there have been people asking about ride quality - I would NOT recommend this if some people think H&R sways are too rough... this is definitely a much bigger difference than that. I can feel the bumps and the road a lot more, not in a bad way, I just can. It's much much more like a go cart now. My wife, who enjoys a spirited drive, said she could not really feel a difference in ride quality but it for sure is not stock.

Here is a walk around video, a drive by, and a still of how it sits now.

[lsturbointeg]

nice vids! drop looks perfect! i would add spacers now to get that flush look

[BimmerHausPerformance]

Thanks, I am looking at the 19" m2/m4 forged wheels, 9" in the front 10" rears. Then I will do spacers.

[Sylverlee]

On the Megan's I just jack up the car and can squeeze the wrenches in within the wheel arc to adjust height.

[WinstonE92xi]

Looks good and super low! What diffuser is that on the stock rear bumper?

[BimmerHausPerformance]

https://smile.amazon.com/Ruien-Unive...FE7B99K87DMF14

That's not the exact one I bought but it was cheap and the pic I saw had it on a BMW and it fit great.