[SunnyGL]

Howdy,

Early F10's, even in this crazy market, are hovering around $12-16k with 80-110k miles on them - right around when everything breaks .

Honda Accords of similar vintage and mileage are about the same price or more! F30's are also in the same ballpark with high miles too.

I've been considering an '11-13 535xi as a third car. For some crazy reason I like bimmers even with all their faults.

First question: I note that some cars have a "sport and comfort" button next to the shift lever, is this the active dampening? If not what is it and what is the code? I've been downloading Vin Decodings on local cars like mad trying to sort out all the features.

Ideally I'd find a nice M-Sport in blue with a non black interior at a great price but there's an early '11 near me in Tasman Green without aforementioned buttons that could be nice (nice enough that the dealer's wife has grabbed it in the meantime).

Color wise it seems black, white and gray dominate. Did BMW ever do F10s in red?

Cheers
SunnyGL

PS I've already done myself harm with an R56 6MT

[ChiNorm]

"I note that some cars have a "sport and comfort" button next to the shift lever,"

Tranny modes.

[95blkmax]

Originally Posted by SunnyGL

First question: I note that some cars have a "sport and comfort" button next to the shift lever, is this the active dampening? If not what is it and what is the code? I've been downloading Vin Decodings on local cars like mad trying to sort out all the features.

Ideally I'd find a nice M-Sport in blue with a non black interior at a great price but there's an early '11 near me in Tasman Green without aforementioned buttons that could be nice (nice enough that the dealer's wife has grabbed it in the meantime).

Color wise it seems black, white and gray dominate. Did BMW ever do F10s in red?

That's primarily for transmission modes like the other responder said. But, if the F10 is equipped with Adaptive Drive, this would also tie into the struts and sway bars. My 2011 has this:
- electronic damper control (EDC) option 0223
- dynamic drive, option 0229

Mind you, that these options codes may change for LCI models. For example, around that time the dynamic sway bars went from hydraulic (what I have) to electric. This could have prompted a change to that code number

[Qsilver7]

Originally Posted by SunnyGL

First question: I note that some cars have a "sport and comfort" button next to the shift lever, is this the active dampening? If not what is it and what is the code? I've been downloading Vin Decodings on local cars like mad trying to sort out all the features.

I'm not sure what the option code is for this feature...but that is the driving experience mode switch. Depending on how the car is optioned...you could have multiple driving experience modes that range from:

• Eco Pro
• Comfort+
• Comfort
• Sport
• Sport+

This button allows the driver to select various driving dynamics...again based on how the car is optioned which can affect the chassis and/or drivetrain's response. If you have an adaptive suspension/electronic damping control/dynamic drive/etc...you may see COMFORT+ & SPORT+ selections. The adaptive suspensions allow for more individualization due to the electronic suspension, steering, damping features that can allow for this individualization.

This chart sort of shows some of the affects that can be manipulated to individualize the driving experience:

[Surly73]

QSilver's post is great. Though all of the info is not for the F10, it gives you an idea of what it can do.

The switch moves the car between modes. The modes do different things depending on the rest of your options. For example - On an X-Drive car, it will never stiffen the steering since the X-Drive F10s all have hydraulic steering instead of electric.

I have referred to it as the DEC switch. My F10 didn't come with one (non-sport X-Drive with no adaptive suspension). I retrofit one for a bunch of reasons - right now it pretty much just gives my engine and transmission tunes information about how I intend to drive and they make adjustments accordingly. It also happens to work around some bugs present in (or exposed by) xHP when you also retrofit shift paddles...

The presence of the switch alone doesn't give you a whole lot of intelligence about other packages. You still will want to pull an option list for the VIN.

[OnlyGerman]

Avoid 2011s

[jarsdad1]

Originally Posted by OnlyGerman

Avoid 2011s

Why? My 2011 was trouble-free for 104k miles until it was totaled while parked
Only unscheduled repair was a headlight replacement under warranty
My "new" (replacement) 2011 535 has only had to have both rear vapor barriers replaced.

[OnlyGerman]

Originally Posted by jarsdad1

Why? My 2011 was trouble-free for 104k miles until it was totaled while parked
Only unscheduled repair was a headlight replacement under warranty
My "new" (replacement) 2011 535 has only had to have both rear vapor barriers replaced.

Early n55 have issues…

[95blkmax]

Originally Posted by OnlyGerman

Early n55 have issues…

Could you expand on this vague blanket statement please? Are you talking of rod bearing issues, OFHG issues, VCG issues, OPG issues (that ALL N55s are susceptible to get ), or something else?

[OnlyGerman]

Originally Posted by 95blkmax

Could you expand on this vague blanket statement please? Are you talking of rod bearing issues, OFHG issues, VCG issues, OPG issues (that ALL N55s are susceptible to get ), or something else?

Rod bearing,, every n55 will suffer from leaks

[95blkmax]

Originally Posted by OnlyGerman

Rod bearing,, every n55 will suffer from leaks

This is indeed is true! But to expand on this and for clarification to the OP, here's a post I made a couple of months ago in which I confirmed that all N54s, N55s, and even the mighty S55s, all use the same exact rod bearings (I just noticed I was also responding to you OnlyGerman! lol!). They didn't change until the B58.

https://f10.5post.com/forums/showpos...61&postcount=9

So in short, I feel that the likelihood of rod bearing failure depends mostly on the engine oil's change history, the quality of the oil that was used, your driving habits, and pure luck lol.

I do agree that the older ones would be the ones more likely to have this issue based on age alone... But at work I've seen enough 2015-2016 N55s with less than 60k miles having the crank locked up or the metal shavings in the oil filter that honestly I feel that luck (or lack thereof) is also a factor in play, unfortunately. The good thing is that grand majority of N55s will never have this problem! But that doesn't help the few who have had this happen and has broken their finances and/ or caused them to junk/ part out the car. At the end, I'd still take an N55 over any other BMW engine (okay I lie... I'd LOVE a tuned N57 diesel )

[Surly73]

Originally Posted by 95blkmax

This is indeed is true! But to expand on this and for clarification to the OP, here's a post I made a couple of months ago in which I confirmed that all N54s, N55s, and even the mighty S55s, all use the same exact rod bearings (I just noticed I was also responding to you OnlyGerman! lol!). They didn't change until the B58.

Hey there. I'm not arguing with you, and I have a 2011 so I'm hoping not to have any issues....

I have seen some material online (I don't know that I saved any references) suggesting it's the block that changed, not the bearings. Issues with oil supply or return channels etc... affecting lubrication. The bearings themselves aren't at fault (hence why they didn't change) but there is suspicion that at least one bearing was more likely to be under-lubricated in at least some 2011s. Use RealOEM to look at how many times the block has changed...

Now, that being said, the Internet is full of "look! another 2011!". But then we find out that an OFHG job was done the week before, or they're running FBO and don't let engines warm up before beating on it, or they used the full extended oil change interval with inadequate oil and there may be other contributing factors.

Anyways, I send my used oil to Blackstone (although I still have to get around to having my last sample analyzed) looking for bearing material, fuel, coolant etc... I change my oil often and I've stuck with the updated LL-01 standard, I don't flog on a cold engine. Not much more I can do. I won't be ditching my 2011 just because it "might" have a problem. I am a little scared to do the OFHG job I must admit, but since shops are just as guilty as DIYers at not priming, I'm not any safer having a shop do it IMO. At least I will know for sure that I've done the priming procedure (maybe twice).

[95blkmax]

Originally Posted by Surly73

Hey there. I'm not arguing with you, and I have a 2011 so I'm hoping not to have any issues....

I have seen some material online (I don't know that I saved any references) suggesting it's the block that changed, not the bearings. Issues with oil supply or return channels etc... affecting lubrication. The bearings themselves aren't at fault (hence why they didn't change) but there is suspicion that at least one bearing was more likely to be under-lubricated in at least some 2011s. Use RealOEM to look at how many times the block has changed...

Now, that being said, the Internet is full of "look! another 2011!". But then we find out that an OFHG job was done the week before, or they're running FBO and don't let engines warm up before beating on it, or they used the full extended oil change interval with inadequate oil and there may be other contributing factors.

Anyways, I send my used oil to Blackstone (although I still have to get around to having my last sample analyzed) looking for bearing material, fuel, coolant etc... I change my oil often and I've stuck with the updated LL-01 standard, I don't flog on a cold engine. Not much more I can do. I won't be ditching my 2011 just because it "might" have a problem. I am a little scared to do the OFHG job I must admit, but since shops are just as guilty as DIYers at not priming, I'm not any safer having a shop do it IMO. At least I will know for sure that I've done the priming procedure (maybe twice).

no arguing felt on my end. I agree with you too that there have been block changes with the N55 block over the years. And I do agree with OnlyGerman as far as the 2011s (like your and mine) being susceptible to this. All Im saying (as you had brought up; "But then we find out that an OFHG job was done the week before, or they're running FBO and don't let engines warm up before beating on it, or they used the full extended oil change interval with inadequate oil and there may be other contributing factors.". These are factors that could kill even the newest N55s (such as the low mileage 2015-2016s I have seen at work with the same problem).

**Knock on wood** I did my OFHG at ~115k-116k miles (along with VC assembly replacement) back in January and have had no issue. And mine has the "allegedly more susceptible" oil cooler setup. BUT I also change my oil frequently (I have a ridiculously short commute so I go by time, 3x a year at about 4800 miles for the year). Don't know if that has any to do with it. But so far I'm two Blackstone samples in and all looks great **knock on wood again**. I guess what I'm trying to say is, if I were in your shoes, I'd be more nervous about my OFHG leak degrading my tensioner or idler and causing the belt to slip and get sucked into the crankcase. This is more of a certainty than rod bearing failure IMO.

[moks_garage]

What's FBO

[Keyser Soze]

Originally Posted by SunnyGL

First question: I note that some cars have a "sport and comfort" button next to the shift lever, is this the active dampening? If not what is it and what is the code? I've been downloading Vin Decodings on local cars like mad trying to sort out all the features.

For over 90% or more of vehicles - all that button will do is change the throttle response/transmission shifting (more aggressively) unless the original owner also paid extra for those adjustable suspension packages. I don't think very many dealers ordered those for cars sitting on their lots, so there won't be many out there.

Originally Posted by SunnyGL

Color wise it seems black, white and gray dominate.

YES

Originally Posted by SunnyGL

Did BMW ever do F10s in red?

there is one in existence we've seen pics of that someone ordered and paid $5k extra!

[Surly73]

Originally Posted by 95blkmax

I guess what I'm trying to say is, if I were in your shoes, I'd be more nervous about my OFHG leak degrading my tensioner or idler and causing the belt to slip and get sucked into the crankcase. This is more of a certainty than rod bearing failure IMO.

Yep that's on my mind. I also drive very low miles annually. I've been monitoring the OFHG for a while, and it only seems bad enough to attract some dirt on the housing after a month or two. I clean it all up and observe again. Nothing seems to be getting on the belt. *knock wood* but I know that can change in very short order.

I have all the parts to do OFHG, coolant change, belt, idler, tensioner, IM gaskets, VCG. A couple of little odds and ends (rad top hose, some fasteners) are in the mail right now from FCP. Probably going to do it this fall yet. I'm tired of worrying and checking. I do not have the external oil/air heat exchanger loop so in theory I'm safer from the OFHG-induced bearing spin. I'd also like to inspect my intake valve cleanliness but I'm not sure I feel like tackling the extra stuff with all the DME connectors etc... to completely remove the IM in the cold fall weather.

This is my only ride and it's "daily". As I get older my good luck seems to be waning in terms of "collateral damage". You know, breaking the lock tab off of a connector no matter how gentle you are, dropping something in a bad place...

[95blkmax]

Originally Posted by Surly73

Yep that's on my mind. I also drive very low miles annually. I've been monitoring the OFHG for a while, and it only seems bad enough to attract some dirt on the housing after a month or two. I clean it all up and observe again. Nothing seems to be getting on the belt. *knock wood* but I know that can change in very short order.

I have all the parts to do OFHG, coolant change, belt, idler, tensioner, IM gaskets, VCG. A couple of little odds and ends (rad top hose, some fasteners) are in the mail right now from FCP. Probably going to do it this fall yet. I'm tired of worrying and checking. I do not have the external oil/air heat exchanger loop so in theory I'm safer from the OFHG-induced bearing spin. I'd also like to inspect my intake valve cleanliness but I'm not sure I feel like tackling the extra stuff with all the DME connectors etc... to completely remove the IM in the cold fall weather.

This is my only ride and it's "daily". As I get older my good luck seems to be waning in terms of "collateral damage". You know, breaking the lock tab off of a connector no matter how gentle you are, dropping something in a bad place...

I'm on the same boat. There's a T25 torx bit somewhere between the block and the HPFP of mine .

Perfect time to replace that upper rad hose! Oh, this is also a good time to replace/ upgrade the plastic mickey mouse fitting on the cylinder head to t-stat hose. This has to be pulled to access one OFH bolt and this plastic is questionable at best. You can upgrade it to an aluminum for dirt cheap. THIS is just an example. I think I paid like $15 for mine with new gasket. You just have to cut the band clamp on the original fitting, break up the plastic. After replacing your OFHGs, bolt the fitting to the head, then slide the hose with new clamp over it and continue your work as usual.

[VAB5]

Originally Posted by Surly73

Yep that's on my mind. I also drive very low miles annually. I've been monitoring the OFHG for a while, and it only seems bad enough to attract some dirt on the housing after a month or two. I clean it all up and observe again. Nothing seems to be getting on the belt. *knock wood* but I know that can change in very short order.

I have all the parts to do OFHG, coolant change, belt, idler, tensioner, IM gaskets, VCG. A couple of little odds and ends (rad top hose, some fasteners) are in the mail right now from FCP. Probably going to do it this fall yet. I'm tired of worrying and checking. I do not have the external oil/air heat exchanger loop so in theory I'm safer from the OFHG-induced bearing spin. I'd also like to inspect my intake valve cleanliness but I'm not sure I feel like tackling the extra stuff with all the DME connectors etc... to completely remove the IM in the cold fall weather.

This is my only ride and it's "daily". As I get older my good luck seems to be waning in terms of "collateral damage". You know, breaking the lock tab off of a connector no matter how gentle you are, dropping something in a bad place...

Be sure to read up on the proper procedure for changing the OFHG. You need to PRIME the engine after changing the gasket, or I believe terrible things can happen.

There are videos on YouTube on how (and why) to do this. Very important step.

[OnlyGerman]

Another issue is people doing 10-15k oil changes, which prematurely kills these

[SunnyGL]

Originally Posted by Qsilver7

I'm not sure what the option code is for this feature...but that is the driving experience mode switch. Depending on how the car is optioned...you could have multiple driving experience modes that range from:

• Eco Pro
• Comfort+
• Comfort
• Sport
• Sport+

This button allows the driver to select various driving dynamics...again based on how the car is optioned which can affect the chassis and/or drivetrain's response. If you have an adaptive suspension/electronic damping control/dynamic drive/etc...you may see COMFORT+ & SPORT+ selections. The adaptive suspensions allow for more individualization due to the electronic suspension, steering, damping features that can allow for this individualization.

This chart sort of shows some of the affects that can be manipulated to individualize the driving experience:

Wow, So much information!

Could this be the code:

4U2 Driving Experience Control Incl. Ec

I see this on one with the buttons and not on one without (the green 9/2010 build).

So far, of the dozen or so decoded VINs I've pulled, I've only seen one M-Sport with the adaptive dampers. It's an early 2011 build and looks like a good deal until one realizes that it's at a very shady dealer on Long Island.

Thanks
SunnyGL

[SunnyGL]

Originally Posted by Keyser Soze

For over 90% or more of vehicles - all that button will do is change the throttle response/transmission shifting (more aggressively) unless the original owner also paid extra for those adjustable suspension packages. I don't think very many dealers ordered those for cars sitting on their lots, so there won't be many out there.



YES



there is one in existence we've seen pics of that someone ordered and paid $5k extra!

I poked around the site some and found the color palette here:

https://f10.5post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=366814

We get white, black, 2 silvers, 2 blues, 2 grays and 3, yes 3! browns, and a green, so no red.

Presumably these may have changed over time.

cheers
SunnyGL

[SunnyGL]

Originally Posted by OnlyGerman

Rod bearing,, every n55 will suffer from leaks

Nooooo, not rod bearings here too.

I gave up on the idea of an E93 M3 partly because I didn't want to drop an additional $3k on bearings.

I thought leaks were a BMW "feature"

cheers
SunnyGL